Cool, we'll holla..Part# DIFF36149 @ Cruiser Outfitters
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Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #182
Few touch up items while waiting on my driveshafts and the start of the next project!
Painted the Trail Tailor transfer case linkage and reinstalled.
Added the City Racer 5-spd shifter plate to my shift knob and compared it to the stock rubber shift knob. I'll need to drive both to decide which I like better. The shape of the rubber one is similar to the ZHP shift knob I had in my BMW e46 ZHP which I like but the look of the plastic one better.
Start of the next project. Desmog and carb rebuild. I had been told that the carb was recently rebuilt but like most items I'm finding, the shop that did the work did not really do it correctly or well.
This is also a chance to fix the carb insulator gasket that had a big vaccum leak below the carb. I have a new insulator and plate on hand.
Blew the carb apart and the 2nd main jet was completely buggered so I still need to try and extract it maybe with a bolt extractor and the choke shaft needs to be replaced. I found a replacement shaft and got it ordered. That will give me time to work on the desmog while I wait for parts.
Painted the Trail Tailor transfer case linkage and reinstalled.
Added the City Racer 5-spd shifter plate to my shift knob and compared it to the stock rubber shift knob. I'll need to drive both to decide which I like better. The shape of the rubber one is similar to the ZHP shift knob I had in my BMW e46 ZHP which I like but the look of the plastic one better.
Start of the next project. Desmog and carb rebuild. I had been told that the carb was recently rebuilt but like most items I'm finding, the shop that did the work did not really do it correctly or well.
This is also a chance to fix the carb insulator gasket that had a big vaccum leak below the carb. I have a new insulator and plate on hand.
Blew the carb apart and the 2nd main jet was completely buggered so I still need to try and extract it maybe with a bolt extractor and the choke shaft needs to be replaced. I found a replacement shaft and got it ordered. That will give me time to work on the desmog while I wait for parts.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #183
Driveshafts are here and installed from Tom Woods. Went with a double cardan up front to help clear the crossmember and it clears with room to spare.
Amayama had the choke shafts for the carburetor in stock so I ordered a couple. Will get going on desmog in the mean time and hopefully it’ll be done by the time the carb parts show up and then truck will be driving again!
Amayama had the choke shafts for the carburetor in stock so I ordered a couple. Will get going on desmog in the mean time and hopefully it’ll be done by the time the carb parts show up and then truck will be driving again!
Hey Hokie, my extended end links and sway bar bushings look to be in the same shape yours used to be. I searched on Cruiser Outfitter and couldn't find them. Do you have a SKU or part number?
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #186
Frustrating situation with Amayama where I was just informed that the choke shaft they "had" is actually not in stock. Took 8 days to figure this out apparently...I know this part is not produced anymore but c'mon. I have a camping trip coming up in 9 days and this wasted week majorly impacted the chances of the 60 making the trip meaning the 100 will likely be driven.
Tried ordering it from another source and we'll see how it goes. If it doesn't work out, I'll look at either picking up a used factory carb to scavenge or maybe get a CR carb. I'd like to retain HAC so the CR is not ideal for that reason.
It's motorcycle track season now (my main hobby) so the truck isn't getting as much attention as usual but started on the desmog. Was going swimmingly until one of the lower thermostat bolts decided not to play nice. Ended up partially draining the cooling system and removing the thermostat housing. New lower ordered and a new BVSV (1) since the factory one was nonexistent. I noted this during my cooling system replacement earlier this year but didn't find a lower housing in stock at the time to replace. Got one ordered from City Racer.
Victorious!
There's so much room for activities!
Something here is missing
Tried ordering it from another source and we'll see how it goes. If it doesn't work out, I'll look at either picking up a used factory carb to scavenge or maybe get a CR carb. I'd like to retain HAC so the CR is not ideal for that reason.
It's motorcycle track season now (my main hobby) so the truck isn't getting as much attention as usual but started on the desmog. Was going swimmingly until one of the lower thermostat bolts decided not to play nice. Ended up partially draining the cooling system and removing the thermostat housing. New lower ordered and a new BVSV (1) since the factory one was nonexistent. I noted this during my cooling system replacement earlier this year but didn't find a lower housing in stock at the time to replace. Got one ordered from City Racer.
Victorious!
There's so much room for activities!
Something here is missing
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You can still throw in that choke shaft we fixed/modified right?
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #188
Going to try that today. Problem is my Amayama order (delayed cause of the choke shaft) has the manifold gaskets I need to put the carb back on since the old ones tore taking the insulator off. So even if the choke shaft we modified works, I’m still waiting on parts.
Do you have a new insulator? Iirc the insulator has bonded gaskets, meaning you don't need additional ones.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #191
Truck ran today for the first time in too long. Got it on the road for a few miles to check initial timing with the desmog and rebuilt carburetor and to feel out the truck. It's idling well, pulls well and seems very happy. It could probably do with a touch more timing but I'll feel that out. Hoping to get a few hundred miles on the new clutch before the trip to GSMTR so it'll be somewhat broken in before being abused.
The desmog went well. Followed Jim C's pdf document and it laid it out clear as day. Some high temp line was purchased from McMaster and knocked it out in an afternoon.
H55 feels smooth and silky. However, I need to bend or modify the shifter as it is WAYY to close to my leg in 1st and 2nd and I want it a bit further away. Will report back once I get more miles on it.
The desmog went well. Followed Jim C's pdf document and it laid it out clear as day. Some high temp line was purchased from McMaster and knocked it out in an afternoon.
H55 feels smooth and silky. However, I need to bend or modify the shifter as it is WAYY to close to my leg in 1st and 2nd and I want it a bit further away. Will report back once I get more miles on it.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #192
I also discovered why the truck was having idling issues and an air leak below the carb. Took the insulator off and went to clean the mounting face on the manifold before installing the new insulator and found silicone all over it 
Scraped all of the silicone off and good as new. I imagine my issue was that a piece of the silicone that was covering a failed gasket let go and now the air path was unsealed and letting air in below the carb. Frustrating to find silicone yet again but it's properly fixed and ready to go now!
Scraped all of the silicone off and good as new. I imagine my issue was that a piece of the silicone that was covering a failed gasket let go and now the air path was unsealed and letting air in below the carb. Frustrating to find silicone yet again but it's properly fixed and ready to go now!
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Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #193
Some pics from the rebuild.
New carb insulator:
Seems to run alright. Going to get a vacuum gauge to dial in the tune as much as possible. It's amazing how much better the driving experience is with the H55. So much better on the highway and around town. GPS was 85mph here and it was cruising happily with more in her.
Also snagged one of the Napa tire trash bags to try out for GSMTR this year. At $28 it's hard to not give it a try. After all, it's just a trash bag. Seems well built. Good quality straps and clips, drainage holes in the bottom, cinch cord on top of bag, side and front pockets for extra bags or other things. I picked up an awning as well for $85 but will try that out later as I don't have a rack yet. It may go on my motorcycle race trailer until a rack gets added to the 60.
I also picked up a gas can as well to carry some extra fuel.
New carb insulator:
Seems to run alright. Going to get a vacuum gauge to dial in the tune as much as possible. It's amazing how much better the driving experience is with the H55. So much better on the highway and around town. GPS was 85mph here and it was cruising happily with more in her.
Also snagged one of the Napa tire trash bags to try out for GSMTR this year. At $28 it's hard to not give it a try. After all, it's just a trash bag. Seems well built. Good quality straps and clips, drainage holes in the bottom, cinch cord on top of bag, side and front pockets for extra bags or other things. I picked up an awning as well for $85 but will try that out later as I don't have a rack yet. It may go on my motorcycle race trailer until a rack gets added to the 60.
I also picked up a gas can as well to carry some extra fuel.
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Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #194
Got the truck aligned yesterday after the new tie rods and just to set toe and see what my caster angle is. The caster up front read -0.14* but truck drives great. Probably because everything up front is new.
Is it worth getting some 2* shims to get that closer to +1.5*?
Is it worth getting some 2* shims to get that closer to +1.5*?
Imo yes.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
After my lift on Falcor I put in 4 degree shims and it made a world of difference. No more random wandering on slightly tracked freeway sections, return to center felt better and virtually zero bump steer. I really like the ones that Valley Hybrids offers, they're super high quality.
Somewhere between 2 and 6 is the sweet spot in my experience. My truck drove well with flat caster, but it drove better on the highway with 4* shims added. Like dog above said, much less wander with ruts/grooves in the highway, and easier steering return to center.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
Great question. You may want to experiment. I was told with my lift that a 4 degree shim was the optimal amount. I've driven it a lot with these 4 degree shims and without any shims... 4 degrees feels great.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #200
Thanks @GLTHFJ60 and @77CruiserDog I'll get some 4* shims ordered.
