Do you have a link, or part number for this? Much appreciated if so!
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Part number on the hood liner too? I called my local Toyota and the guy was not even close on the part he gave me. Was for a fj40.
Hokie LX
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- #43
Air Intake Hose for Land Cruiser FJ60
New reproduction air cleaner intake hose for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60. Direct replacement for OEM part # 17751-61030. Discontinued by Toyota. Stainless hose clamp also available. Please note: Per OEM design, a small slit is cut on the air cleaner side to ease the fit over the air cleaner housing.
www.cityracerllc.com
Hood liner is 5334190A00
Hope this helps!
Thanks my friend!Air Intake Hose for Land Cruiser FJ60
New reproduction air cleaner intake hose for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60. Direct replacement for OEM part # 17751-61030. Discontinued by Toyota. Stainless hose clamp also available. Please note: Per OEM design, a small slit is cut on the air cleaner side to ease the fit over the air cleaner housing.www.cityracerllc.com
Hood liner is 5334190A00
Hope this helps!
Hokie LX
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- #45
Put some more time in today between meetings. Got the new PCV valve and grommet in, new PS pump in, upper thermostat housing on, replaced some of the rear heater hoses, and got the rest of the oil cooler hoses off. Then I discovered that the water pump gasket I bought was torn so ordered another this morning. Hopefully will have that on hand by Wednesday so I can finish up. Turns out the header that the PO installed blocks the rear PS pump bolt from coming all the way out so I had to take the entire bracket off. Decided to do some degreasing while it was out. Turns out that air pump is indeed silver and not black.
Hokie LX
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- #46
Got her back together after some family time this past week. Now I'm chasing coolant leaks from the new hoses, some causing small puddles on the ground but only after/while driving. Seems to be some leakage from the WP after torquing it to spec and some from the various oil cooler lines. The clamps are almost maxed out so I will have to look into that further this week. New hood liner is looking fresh!
While I was in there, I put in a 3FE fan clutch.
I also sanded down and repainted the fan shroud and the upper air cleaner.
I also added some new extended end links and fresh sway bar bushings since the stock ones were toast! Got them from Cruiser Outfitters.
With the new power steering pump, I threw in a Magnefine filter per @HemiAlex recommendation.
While I was in there, I put in a 3FE fan clutch.
I also sanded down and repainted the fan shroud and the upper air cleaner.
I also added some new extended end links and fresh sway bar bushings since the stock ones were toast! Got them from Cruiser Outfitters.
With the new power steering pump, I threw in a Magnefine filter per @HemiAlex recommendation.
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I had random coolant leaks from the oem clamps for a week in the 60 when I first put it together. I would snug them each 1/4 turn til it stopped.
The 62 didn’t and hasn’t leaked a drop, and I have no idea how.
The 62 didn’t and hasn’t leaked a drop, and I have no idea how.
Also, lmk when you’re ready for the part numbers for a set of bilsteins. 
Hokie LX
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- #50
Cooling system is now leak free. Took some readjusting of the two lower radiator pipes up to the waterpump to really get it perfect. Took her for a test drive to a buddy's house and no leaks over ~50 miles or so. Will keep an eye on it going forward just to make sure.
Otherwise, I've been cleaning up the interior more for sound deadening installation. Been working on the 1st and second row floors and existing sound insulation. Cleaning, degreasing, vacuuming, rinse and repeat. The front factory insulation will definitely need to come out as it's breaking down and just goo in some spots. The second row is iffy. There's an area in the middle that's failed so the entire second row insulation may come out too. Putting new insulation over failed insulation with an air gap defeats the purpose so I'm wanting to take it all out to ensure good adhesion. This pic is after some cleaning. Still some more to do prior to laying down the sound deadening.
Already have the 3rd row and quarters mostly done. Still need to clean and line the outer fender wells in the quarter panel area.
Didn't get to touch the truck much today but I did fix the horn. The PO had wired up a switch horn on the dash due to the factory horn not working. I bought some new parts and got it working again this evening. Hooked up the factory wiring again to the horn and removed more additional wiring from the truck added in its past life. Love getting rid of all of these wires!
Horn button:
New parts next to the old ones:
Now the horn will actually work in traffic if I have a panic situation and don't remember to hit the external button.
Otherwise, I've been cleaning up the interior more for sound deadening installation. Been working on the 1st and second row floors and existing sound insulation. Cleaning, degreasing, vacuuming, rinse and repeat. The front factory insulation will definitely need to come out as it's breaking down and just goo in some spots. The second row is iffy. There's an area in the middle that's failed so the entire second row insulation may come out too. Putting new insulation over failed insulation with an air gap defeats the purpose so I'm wanting to take it all out to ensure good adhesion. This pic is after some cleaning. Still some more to do prior to laying down the sound deadening.
Already have the 3rd row and quarters mostly done. Still need to clean and line the outer fender wells in the quarter panel area.
Didn't get to touch the truck much today but I did fix the horn. The PO had wired up a switch horn on the dash due to the factory horn not working. I bought some new parts and got it working again this evening. Hooked up the factory wiring again to the horn and removed more additional wiring from the truck added in its past life. Love getting rid of all of these wires!
Horn button:
New parts next to the old ones:
Now the horn will actually work in traffic if I have a panic situation and don't remember to hit the external button.
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Nice work and great truck. I actually looked at buying that one at one time, seemed like a solid deal but I had to do a sanity check since I have 3 60's to maintain now. I have always wanted one in beige though.
Hokie LX
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- #53
Still slowly working along while waiting for some of the larger items to arrive.
Did some more dry ice work with the 1st and 2nd row factory insulation and did some more sound deadening. The dry ice made quick work of the factory insulation except the middle of the rear floorboard where it had completely failed. That was sticky and took some extra time letting the dry ice sit before it would come off cleanly.
For those looking to use this method, here's a quick how-to.
1. Buy a bag of Dry Ice from local store. One bag lasted me enough to do all of the second row and first row and still have most of the block left. When working quickly, a single bag would likely do the whole truck if you worked quickly.
2. Let it sit on a section of insulation for ~2 mins (for insulation which hasn't failed)
3. Remove and place back into a cooler and use a rubber hammer and plastic chisel to create the first crack. Once the first crack is present, the rest will come apart in large chunks with whacks of the rubber hammer.
4. For insulation that has turned sticky, let ice sit for 5-7 minutes, use a plastic chisel and chisel it off.
5. Vacuum up all pieces of insulation and particles.
6. Spray down remaining adhesive with Stoner's Tarminator (or other tar dissolver) and wipe clean.
7. Use a degreaser or wax remover to clean surface and then apply sound deadening.
Ice sitting on a section of insultion
Hit it with a rubber mallet and it should cleanly detach and break into pieces.
Spraying down the remaining tar adhesive with Tarminator. It just melts it away.
After wiping up the Tarminator and waiting to do another round of Tarminator and then degreaser.
Onto the rest of my progress today.
Got sound deadening up through the 2nd row and started working on a rear door. The difference the sound deadening makes on the doors is dramatic!
I took the door panels off and found that none of the vapor barriers were intact. This is something I'll be fixing while I'm doing the sound deadening. This is also a good chance for me to clean out the inner doors of all debris and dirt.
Sound deadening applied to the first door.
Did some more dry ice work with the 1st and 2nd row factory insulation and did some more sound deadening. The dry ice made quick work of the factory insulation except the middle of the rear floorboard where it had completely failed. That was sticky and took some extra time letting the dry ice sit before it would come off cleanly.
For those looking to use this method, here's a quick how-to.
1. Buy a bag of Dry Ice from local store. One bag lasted me enough to do all of the second row and first row and still have most of the block left. When working quickly, a single bag would likely do the whole truck if you worked quickly.
2. Let it sit on a section of insulation for ~2 mins (for insulation which hasn't failed)
3. Remove and place back into a cooler and use a rubber hammer and plastic chisel to create the first crack. Once the first crack is present, the rest will come apart in large chunks with whacks of the rubber hammer.
4. For insulation that has turned sticky, let ice sit for 5-7 minutes, use a plastic chisel and chisel it off.
5. Vacuum up all pieces of insulation and particles.
6. Spray down remaining adhesive with Stoner's Tarminator (or other tar dissolver) and wipe clean.
7. Use a degreaser or wax remover to clean surface and then apply sound deadening.
Ice sitting on a section of insultion
Hit it with a rubber mallet and it should cleanly detach and break into pieces.
Spraying down the remaining tar adhesive with Tarminator. It just melts it away.
After wiping up the Tarminator and waiting to do another round of Tarminator and then degreaser.
Onto the rest of my progress today.
Got sound deadening up through the 2nd row and started working on a rear door. The difference the sound deadening makes on the doors is dramatic!
I took the door panels off and found that none of the vapor barriers were intact. This is something I'll be fixing while I'm doing the sound deadening. This is also a good chance for me to clean out the inner doors of all debris and dirt.
Sound deadening applied to the first door.
Hokie LX
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- Thread starter
- #54
All the hours of interior work finally paid off. Entire truck has been sound deadened (minus roof and firewall) and new carpet is in.
Final sound deadening.
Got the doors done as well and realized the vapor barriers were nonexistent. Remade them using some 4mil dropcloth and fresh butyl rope.
And now the finished interior pics with carpet installed. Overall I'm happy with the end product. There are a couple areas I messed up but overall it is really solid and a night and day transformation from before.
Some before pics:
And the new carpet. A buddy was kind enough to give me a driver seat that had been reupholstered in vinyl. Will keep it until I figure out the seat situation. It's much nicer than my torn up one!
Adding new rear cargo panels to the to-do list. Thinking of using some abs plastic sheets that I can customize to my needs.
Final sound deadening.
Got the doors done as well and realized the vapor barriers were nonexistent. Remade them using some 4mil dropcloth and fresh butyl rope.
And now the finished interior pics with carpet installed. Overall I'm happy with the end product. There are a couple areas I messed up but overall it is really solid and a night and day transformation from before.
Some before pics:
And the new carpet. A buddy was kind enough to give me a driver seat that had been reupholstered in vinyl. Will keep it until I figure out the seat situation. It's much nicer than my torn up one!
Adding new rear cargo panels to the to-do list. Thinking of using some abs plastic sheets that I can customize to my needs.
Hokie LX
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- #55
Another big update was that after 5 weeks of waiting, I finally got my tires in and was able to mount my new wheels/tires!
I also pulled out 2 leafs from the rear pack in an attempt to lower the rear. Looks like it dropped it 1.5" or so. May need to go with a shorter shackle and take yet another leaf out as it's still pretty high. Going to load up 200lbs tomorrow in it and see how it sits and go from there. I also swapped the rear leafs. I have the CS005 leafs in the rear and swapped them so the "A" pack is on the driver side and the "B" pack is on the passenger as they were reversed when I bought it.
The driver front is still lower than the passenger front so I need to check that out and see why.
I gave the wheels a quick layer of Adams Graphene coating and then got them mounted. They are 70 series steelies and Yokohama Geolander M/T G003 in 255/85/16.
Relative to what was on it when I bought it.
I also pulled out 2 leafs from the rear pack in an attempt to lower the rear. Looks like it dropped it 1.5" or so. May need to go with a shorter shackle and take yet another leaf out as it's still pretty high. Going to load up 200lbs tomorrow in it and see how it sits and go from there. I also swapped the rear leafs. I have the CS005 leafs in the rear and swapped them so the "A" pack is on the driver side and the "B" pack is on the passenger as they were reversed when I bought it.
The driver front is still lower than the passenger front so I need to check that out and see why.
I gave the wheels a quick layer of Adams Graphene coating and then got them mounted. They are 70 series steelies and Yokohama Geolander M/T G003 in 255/85/16.
Relative to what was on it when I bought it.
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70 series wheel gang.
reddog90
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Great choice.
Hokie LX
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- #59
Got to spend a couple hours on the truck today. First up was replacing a weeping front transfer case output shaft seal that I noted when I picked the truck up in TX. Easy job.
Parts used: New seal, deflector, and nut.
I then cleaned up and painted the output flange just cause why not. I'm doing my best to clean items up as I work on those areas.
New seal in place.
Then since I was already working on that I started my driveline fluid changes. I drained and filled the transmission and transfer case today and I'll do the rear diff tomorrow. The front will get done when I do the rebuild here shortly. Put the new hex head drain plugs in place and noted that the PO had the transfer case to transmission hose installed which is good to see.
I also noted the other day that my 4WD light on the dash was not lighting up when switching to 4Hi. Figured it was a dash light but now I see that the sensor wires were cut...will order a new sensor to replace it
Parts used: New seal, deflector, and nut.
I then cleaned up and painted the output flange just cause why not. I'm doing my best to clean items up as I work on those areas.
New seal in place.
Then since I was already working on that I started my driveline fluid changes. I drained and filled the transmission and transfer case today and I'll do the rear diff tomorrow. The front will get done when I do the rebuild here shortly. Put the new hex head drain plugs in place and noted that the PO had the transfer case to transmission hose installed which is good to see.
I also noted the other day that my 4WD light on the dash was not lighting up when switching to 4Hi. Figured it was a dash light but now I see that the sensor wires were cut...will order a new sensor to replace it
Hokie LX
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- #60
Also the truck is still having some serious cruiser lean. Front driver is ~1.5" lower than the front passenger and the rear driver is 1" lower than the passenger.
Part of the problem was discovered under the truck today. Front shackle bushing is toast. When I was pulling some leafs out of the rear packs, I noted that the bushings were basically shot all around so I ordered up some new leaf spring bushings front and rear to replace the ones on there. Hopefully it'll help level the front. I'd really like to figure out how to correct the lean though.
Part of the problem was discovered under the truck today. Front shackle bushing is toast. When I was pulling some leafs out of the rear packs, I noted that the bushings were basically shot all around so I ordered up some new leaf spring bushings front and rear to replace the ones on there. Hopefully it'll help level the front. I'd really like to figure out how to correct the lean though.
