Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (1 Viewer)

[Roastchestnuts]

So random fj80 photo. I was looking through some of my photos from about 4 years ago now and came across a photo of my fj80. I would have never sold this one. it was a early 1991 Non sunroof or third row fj80 with no overdrive. (was not fun on the highway) on the way back from the mountains my wife took a turn driving and another vehicle pushed us off the road and she overcorrected and we rolled it many many times. From the slow side all the way to the fast lane on the other side of the highway. through the median and trees too actually. I look back on it and really believe that if we were in a different 4x4 vehicle we would be dead. of course the fj80 was totaled. better it than us. But I I do really miss that vehicle. one day I want to get another. I still have the front grill. when we were at the junk yard to grab all the things out of it I took the front grill. It is hanging above our back door in our house.

This all said the fj40 gets better MPG hahaha

 

[Roastchestnuts]

So I am thinking way ahead with this engine build. Thinking to much about it all because I am bored waiting on parts to come in haha. I am thinking I might use an exhaust header instead of using the stock exhaust manifold. The manifold i have is kinda rough. Somebody blocked off the smog stuff and there is a hole in the block off and the the bolts look as though they will break. One of the down pipe studs is stick in place too. Ill post a few pictures this evening when I have some time to tinker on it. I feel like since whenever I go replace the exhaust it might be better just to have the header. I have seen a couple floating around. One looks to be a two peice and one looks to be a one piece.

Bigger picture for my engine build - Looking to make it look like a early 70s F but I am Ok with some Non Correctness if that makes sense. going back to the original purpose to my build - My main concern really is the column shift. I really want that back. It is the single most unique part about early fj40s over many other comparable vehicles of the same vintage. I do know some early cj2s and cj5s had it though and trucks. Either way column shift is very unique in todays world. almost guaranteed a anti theft device with most youth of today haha.

The header is a concern with the column shift and fitment. anybody have a column shift and a header?

 

[Almill13]

So I am thinking way ahead with this engine build. Thinking to much about it all because I am bored waiting on parts to come in haha. I am thinking I might use an exhaust header instead of using the stock exhaust manifold. The manifold i have is kinda rough. Somebody blocked off the smog stuff and there is a hole in the block off and the the bolts look as though they will break. One of the down pipe studs is stick in place too. Ill post a few pictures this evening when I have some time to tinker on it. I feel like since whenever I go replace the exhaust it might be better just to have the header. I have seen a couple floating around. One looks to be a two peice and one looks to be a one piece.

Bigger picture for my engine build - Looking to make it look like a early 70s F but I am Ok with some Non Correctness if that makes sense. going back to the original purpose to my build - My main concern really is the column shift. I really want that back. It is the single most unique part about early fj40s over many other comparable vehicles of the same vintage. I do know some early cj2s and cj5s had it though and trucks. Either way column shift is very unique in todays world. almost guaranteed a anti theft device with most youth of today haha.

The header is a concern with the column shift and fitment. anybody have a column shift and a header?

I have a one piece header and the column shift. I do not have any clearance issues.

 

[RevISK]

So random fj80 photo. I was looking through some of my photos from about 4 years ago now and came across a photo of my fj80. I would have never sold this one. it was a early 1991 Non sunroof or third row fj80 with no overdrive. (was not fun on the highway) on the way back from the mountains my wife took a turn driving and another vehicle pushed us off the road and she overcorrected and we rolled it many many times. From the slow side all the way to the fast lane on the other side of the highway. through the median and trees too actually. I look back on it and really believe that if we were in a different 4x4 vehicle we would be dead. of course the fj80 was totaled. better it than us. But I I do really miss that vehicle. one day I want to get another. I still have the front grill. when we were at the junk yard to grab all the things out of it I took the front grill. It is hanging above our back door in our house.

This all said the fj40 gets better MPG hahaha

View attachment 3530278

bro.
what a harrowing story. I am so glad you are here to tell it.

Some pretty juicy dynamic range on this shot. Clean grain too. Delta 100?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

bro.
what a harrowing story. I am so glad you are here to tell it.

Some pretty juicy dynamic range on this shot. Clean grain too. Delta 100?

Yeah that was a tough year I am glad its behind us. My wife actually broke her c6 in that accident had to get surgery and was in a neck brace for about a year. some how I walked away with nothing but a few cuts on my feet because my shoes went missing. Some upsides for sure though. I think it really solidified our relationship. We also are really really safe drivers now. I am 100% fine with the slow speed of the fj40. I think an experience like that really makes you not take things in life for granted.

I honestly cant remember what I shot that with. I bet it was ilford fp4 or kodak tmax 100. I shot both of these alot that year. These days I am really only shooting trix or gold 200 in medium format. just the cheapest and consistant results. gold 200 is actually really good in medium format. just less exposure latitude.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

My tools and parts were to be here on Monday but a winter storm caused shipping delays and while the gaskets and parts are not here but my tools are. I am excited to use the valve compressor tool and to be able to get the harmonic balancer off this weekend. I also can separate the transmission and transfercase and finally get the trans on the work bench.

I might get the fuel pump and water pump and gaskets in today. Crossing my fingers. I ended up getting a non oil cooler water pump and bolt kit and a oem 1977 - 1978 fuel pump from city racer. I figured I should get an oem fuel pump mostly because I think these are rebuildable and I really dont want to be a year down the road and the fuel pump go. OEM Mechanical Fuel Pump and Gasket for 10/'77 to 12/'78 Land Cruiser FJ40 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/mechanical-fuel-pump-and-gasket-for-10-77-to-12-78-land-cruiser-fj40

It was crazy I ordered the parts and then city racer closed the store for a few days right after I got the order in.

 

[Green Bean]

How deep are you planning on going into the engine?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

How deep are you planning on going into the engine?

It seemed to have good consistint compression when I tested it. when I pulled the head I could still see cross hatching although lots of carbon build up on the pistons. I am planning on throwing new gaskets and adjusting and cleaning valves and valve seals. I still need to look at the bearings. dont really want to do a full bore it out rebuild if I can help it. I am planning on inspecting the bearings this weekend. I need to figure the carb out still and not sure if I am going oem . I really like the idea of a holley 350cfm. I like holleys and have read good things on mud about them on a 2f. I think I am going to bite the bullet on a dizzy and go with the kit that vintage teq parts has. Takes alot of the guess work out of it. Lastly I think I am going to change out the intake for a later F intake (still got to reserch and see if that will work.) Looks like a more simple intake. I am going to use an aftermarket header too I think.

Probibly after I install it in the 40 I will do an early 70s F valve cover. and would need to probibly find the air cleaner bracket before I put the head on because I think it uses head bolts to attach.

Then hopfully have my transmission all figured out.

The idea is to have everything ready to swap into the 40 by end of summer. we will see.

But this is my ever changing plan.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I got the valves out yesterday after work. I had been thinking about it all day. I need to post a picture of the valves. some were super crusty oily carboned. I wonder if this engine was egr smoggy or the valve seals are garbage. Ill post a picture of the one of the worst valves. I should have taken one yesterday. The first valve I got out of course one of the keepers flew out and I was looking for it for 10 minutes. Landed on top of the transmission that is sitting under the work bench.

I also finally got the timing cover and harmonic balancer off today. the cheep puller I got worked.

 

[OlYellr]

Is your plan to do all/most the head work yourself?

I recently got my engine together (few false starts) - I kept it OEM - as I had new seals, valves, etc. and the guides were not that worn (can't get exhaust valves anymore that I can see - ). If I were to do it again (and I might, I have a spare 2f I just acquired) - I would switch to the SS chevy valves, etc that JimC & others posted about in multiple threads. They are cheaper than finding all the OEM stuff and they say less prone to warping.

2F head rebuild threads - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2f-head-rebuild-threads.1034249/post-13196651

My exhaust manifold needed to be decked after I put it together the first time (missed that detail) - and I had the shop deck both. And for 50 bucks bucks more, the machine shop put a real plug to replace the pressed in galley plug in the head - they and are prone to leaking/failing over time.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Is your plan to do all/most the head work yourself?

I recently got my engine together (few false starts) - I kept it OEM - as I had new seals, valves, etc. and the guides were not that worn (can't get exhaust valves anymore that I can see - ). If I were to do it again (and I might, I have a spare 2f I just acquired) - I would switch to the SS chevy valves, etc that JimC & others posted about in multiple threads. They are cheaper than finding all the OEM stuff and they say less prone to warping.

2F head rebuild threads - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2f-head-rebuild-threads.1034249/post-13196651

My exhaust manifold needed to be decked after I put it together the first time (missed that detail) - and I had the shop deck both. And for 50 bucks bucks more, the machine shop put a real plug to replace the pressed in galley plug in the head - they and are prone to leaking/failing over time.

Being out here on an island I dont really have a close place to take the head. I have pretty much done all the work myself.

Well if I have to pull the head off again I will swap out for the Chevy Valves. Thats good to know that you can do that. I actually spent a-lot of time today putting the head back together after cleaning the snot out of the valves. they looked good and not bad worn out. The backs of the valves had lots of carbon build up. I think the valve seals were shot and thats was the cause. The guides on mine were not worn at all however the valve seals seemed like they were due for replacing. the opening was a lot bigger than the replacements.

I almost forgot about the galley plug! I had done that on my 3fe in the old fj80. I can do that tomorrow

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Got most of the head work done today. (at least so I think ) The trick with the getting the valve keepers to stay while you are uncompressing the springs is assembly lube. It makes it stick long enough for you to uncompress the valve spring. Other than the head and valves + valve seals, I got the rear main seal installed and the front cover seal. I also cleaned all the carbon off the head today too. The head gasket is installed there too. Head bolts torqued to spec. Used assembly lube instead of engine oil on the threads of the head bolts. I think the fsm says to use engine oil.

Going to install the lifters and pushrods and rockers tomorrow hopefully. I will also try and get to the oil pan and pushrod cover gaskets installed. Pushrod cover is not bolted down in the picture.

 

[120mm]

I have a header and it works fine with my column shift.

On your carboned up engine: Did your engine have a Weber carb and manual fuel pump?

If so, it was probably running super rich. I threw on an el cheapo fuel pressure regulator on that combo and run it at 2.5 PSI with excellent results.

 

[120mm]

Ope... just went back and see it had an Aisin carb. Sorry.

Still, running an out of trim carb will do that.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I have a header and it works fine with my column shift.

On your carboned up engine: Did your engine have a Weber carb and manual fuel pump?

If so, it was probably running super rich. I threw on an el cheapo fuel pressure regulator on that combo and run it at 2.5 PSI with excellent results.

It could have had a weber carb. I think the carb that was on it could have been put on later. it was only hand tight. Did 1978 have a smog egr system? I think that a smog system could have for sure contributed to carbon build up. And I am for sure doing a header then. seems like the better option. still not sure what carb I am going to put on it. I have a 500cfm 2 barrel holley that I could put smaller jets in it to make it a 350cfm carb. I also really like holleys. Just a thought.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I spent the morning while my wife was relaxing and I could not sit still putting gaskets and putting parts back on.. I got the front timing gear cover back and the pushrod cover back on. Then I went ahead and installed the rocker arms. I think I read 19 foot lbs for bigger 14mm and 15 for the 12mm bolts as the for the torq specs. I gotta adjust them at some point. I used lots and lots of assembly lube. I saw that my water pump and fuel pump was delivered to the post office. but I cant get it until Tuesday. so that will be my Tuesday evening project.

Only annoying bad news was the water pump bolt broke off in the block after I welded a nut on..... then I started trying to drill and easy out it.... the easy out broke off in there so its going to be a whole annyoing thing. you can see it in the first picture.

I gotta start ordering other parts like the dizzy, plugs, thermostat housing soon. very exciting.

Other things: you will notice I am using the hoist to hold the engine. it seems I cant rotate the engine over to work on the pan side unless I lift it a little with the hoist. Think its just what it is kinda thing.

\

 

[Green Bean]

It is looking great. Sorry about the water pump bolt casualty. But patience with a small drill bit and it will eventually give up. What does the water drain on the block look like? If you haven't already done so, you may want to pull it and clean/flush as they often get clogged-up with gunk. Are you going to replace the freeze plugs?

 

[OlYellr]

Exciting indeed -

Below are photos of the 2f FSM torque specs...

Which dizzy are you going with? the one from racer 19100-61180 with a PerTronix 1662LS Ignitor upgrade what I ultimately ended with.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

It is looking great. Sorry about the water pump bolt casualty. But patience with a small drill bit and it will eventually give up. What does the water drain on the block look like? If you haven't already done so, you may want to pull it and clean/flush as they often get clogged-up with gunk. Are you going to replace the freeze plugs?

I had planned on washing the block out. but you are right probibly should replace the plugs while I got it on the stand. I didnt really think about it. Any particular plug kit I should go for?

Exciting indeed -

Below are photos of the 2f FSM torque specs...

Which dizzy are you going with? the one from racer 19100-61180 with a PerTronix 1662LS Ignitor upgrade what I ultimately ended with.

View attachment 3532863

View attachment 3532864

I think I am probably going to get the city racer one or the vintage teq parts one. I really like the wiring part of the vintage teq one. as I have no wiring from the old fj40 for the ignition system. Going to purchase somthing this coming week. Or whenever city racer opens back up. But you are right the pertronix would be a worthy upgrade from points. Thanks for that info on torq specs. I needed the crank shaft bearing cap specs because I took the rear one off to install the rear main seal.

 

[RevISK]

I had planned on washing the block out. but you are right probibly should replace the plugs while I got it on the stand. I didnt really think about it. Any particular plug kit I should go for?

I think I am probably going to get the city racer one or the vintage teq parts one. I really like the wiring part of the vintage teq one. as I have no wiring from the old fj40 for the ignition system. Going to purchase somthing this coming week. Or whenever city racer opens back up. But you are right the pertronix would be a worthy upgrade from points. Thanks for that info on torq specs. I needed the crank shaft bearing cap specs because I took the rear one off to install the rear main seal.

I threw a/the pertronix into my girl () back when I was throwing anything I could at her to get her running reliably and I believe it was a big step forward. Flame thrower coil too.