Safe EGT temps FJ60? (Overheating)

[Beehanger]

Hi Mud,

I havent been able to get a straight answer to this question:
whats the optimal EGT temp for a 2F engine?

Been tuning my newly rebuilt 2F and carb and havent been able to figure out why I gradually start overheating at hihgway speeds. I think its a carb issue, but im concerend ill burn a valve from lean mixture before it ever shows up as overheating on the coolant gauge.
So I intalled an aftermarket EGT gauge on my header before even starting the engine for the first time. That way I could catch it well before it shows on the colant guage, which so far im glad ive done, because I show what my buddy has said to be high EGTs even for a cast iron engine.


When I put on my oriignal aisin 2f carb im running around 1400-1500 F, and I know 1400 is a major NONO for cast iron heads (they can crack).

so, could this mean im running lean, or is it more likely the fan clutch is affecting running conditions? The issue is I hit high EGTs even when driving around town on a cold early morning, making me think its the mixture. I recall with differnet mixture settings in the past I didnt have as high of EGTs, but the engine ran much worse than it runs now. The rig runs totally fine and doesnt stumble much once warm, its just the really high EGTs and creeping up engine temps.

Only with sustained speeds do I start to show overheating on the coolant temp gauge in the cluster. Im running 14.5 HG.

IR gun temp is about 220 F but will gradually creep up to 240/250F. The EGTs show high readings right off the bat though.

Ive gotten answers for diesel 60 series engines but never a 2f for the ideal EGT temp. Can a valve burn before the engine shows overheating on the coolant gauge?
Im afraid to drive my rig far because Ill burn a valve or something. I just need to know what the max EGT temp should be when exiting the manifold so I know if I should even be worried, and not break anything.

Ill try to richen mixture even more, but so far it hasnt helped my issue of hitting what my buddy said was a higher EGT number of 1400 for a cast iron engine. and it runs worse the more I enrichen the mixture. Im stuck in a catch 22!

Thanks,
Dan

 

[OSS]

There is no spec foe exhaust temperature for the 2F. I was curious about this too years ago.
The tool to use to examine if the engine is burning fuel properly is a Wideband O2 meter. If the A/F mixture is in range, the exhaust temp will fall in line and not be something to consider.

 

[Beehanger]

There is no spec foe exhaust temperature for the 2F. I was curious about this too years ago.
The tool to use to examine if the engine is burning fuel properly is a Wideband O2 meter. If the A/F mixture is in range, the exhaust temp will fall in line and not be something to consider.

yeahhh too expensive for me. So should I just ignore EGT? I literally have 400 degree discrepancy between now and when Iw as running other carb........

Dan

 

[CruiserTrash]

@Beehanger You can get a wideband gauge kit with sensor, wiring, gauge, and gauge bracket for about the cost of a tank of gas. Instead of using another gauge to indirectly guess at the mixture, why not just buy the gauge that tells you the mixture directly? Or just lean drop the carb. You can really only set the idle mixture on these anyway, which isn’t going to affect your temps.

All that aside, all of these trucks with 2F motors have been running all day every day, across the world with a stock tune up. Follow the FSM. Make sure the the cooling system is 100% working. Make sure the smog system is 100% working, and if you can’t guarantee your homebrew desmog works, reinstall all the smog gear - simply because it’s KNOWN to work that way. Make sure the fuel, air, and spark systems are working.

Do all of this using the FSMs. Toyota gave you the cheat sheet already - you don’t need anything else. Yes, it’s work. It’s time consuming. Some consider it boring. But if you do it, you’ll have the answer you seek: a 2F that runs right.

From all of your various past threads, I know there’s a lot more going on than “why am I overheating?” Countless people on Mud and all over the world have made 2F motors run right for almost 50 years by going back to basics and diligently following the FSM. What do you hope to accomplish reinventing the wheel? The path is already there … all you have to do is follow it.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Apologies if that comes off as harsh - it’s not meant that way. It’s hard to watch you chase your tail on this stuff though. You can do this. Get the FSM and go back to basics.

 

[Godwin]

I suggest you recheck your timing. I was once breaking in a fresh rebuild on a 3FE, running it at 2k or so for 15-20 minutes, and the exhaust manifolds were glowing orange. The timing was too far advanced with the distributor installed one tooth off. Reset the distributor and that returned exhaust temps to normal.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I suggest you recheck your timing. I was once breaking in a fresh rebuild on a 3FE, running it at 2k or so for 15-20 minutes, and the exhaust manifolds were glowing orange. The timing was too far advanced with the distributor installed one tooth off. Reset the distributor and that returned exhaust temps to normal.

In the spirit of glowing exhaust manifolds ... I once had a 1980 Corona that I was selling. It ran, but I never did more than fire it up to make sure it worked before listing it - never drove it more than around the block. Prospective buyer calls and we set up a time in the evening. He's on his way and I fire it up to make sure it still runs - first time firing it up and night, and oh boy did the manifolds glow. They looked like hot lava! I richened the mixture out and adjusted the timing in about 10 minutes and they stopped glowing. He showed up 5 minutes later and it ran great on a test drive. I had advertised it as a project vehicle or "for parts" so I felt good about the deal I gave the guy, but geez, I was biting my fingernails down to the wire before he showed up! The kid ended up getting it fairly well sorted and drove it for about a year before passing it on.