Safari Turbo Destruction-Rebuild (1 Viewer)
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- #3
Now the turbo can spin a little, but it binds on every revolution (edit now spins freely but has play in the shaft). But it’s a moot point because the housing is toast, so I think that means new turbo time. This turbo uses Garrett internals but has a custom turbine housing that was specially made for this application, though I know different replacement turbos have been used because it’s a standard 4-bolt flange to the manifold. Hopefully I can figure out a replacement.
For the manifold, I understand that Turbo-Glide out of Australia were the makers of the manifold for the Safari system. I have reached out to them to see if they would be willing to sell me just the manifold. A guy on mud did this a few years ago:
They are willing, but it's not cheap and will take some time to get. I found a welding instructor that seems confident he can drill the end of the crack, gouge it out, preheat and weld with high-nickel rod, then slowly cool while stress-relieving. I don't know if this will work though. If it doesn't work I can do the Turbo-Glide, though it is over $1000 to get stateside. I don’t know of any other manifold that will line the turbo up in the proper place for the rest of the Safari system to work.
I really want to be sure of the root cause, and make sure it doesn't happen again. I assume it's heat. The system did glow orange last summer because the cat got plugged while on a trip in the mountains, but I tried to be careful on the drive home and stopped on hill climbs to let it cool. I generally don’t abuse it. Would one time glowing orange be enough to damage it like this?
For the manifold, I understand that Turbo-Glide out of Australia were the makers of the manifold for the Safari system. I have reached out to them to see if they would be willing to sell me just the manifold. A guy on mud did this a few years ago:
1FZ turbo exhaust manifold has arrived from Oz (w/ pics)
They are willing, but it's not cheap and will take some time to get. I found a welding instructor that seems confident he can drill the end of the crack, gouge it out, preheat and weld with high-nickel rod, then slowly cool while stress-relieving. I don't know if this will work though. If it doesn't work I can do the Turbo-Glide, though it is over $1000 to get stateside. I don’t know of any other manifold that will line the turbo up in the proper place for the rest of the Safari system to work.
I really want to be sure of the root cause, and make sure it doesn't happen again. I assume it's heat. The system did glow orange last summer because the cat got plugged while on a trip in the mountains, but I tried to be careful on the drive home and stopped on hill climbs to let it cool. I generally don’t abuse it. Would one time glowing orange be enough to damage it like this?
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Glowing turbine housing is not uncommon, but less common at low boost. Probably a combination of heat, mileage and vibration. How long has the turbo been installed?
Yep, it's lived a good long life. I'd be looking for a modern update like a gt35rs. I'd take up that welder on his offer for the manifold first before importing a new one. He may have to adapt your downpipe to the exhaust dump on your new turbine housing as well, as I imagine the shape and configuration has probably changed in the last 20 years--especially if the safari is a one-off specialty turbo.
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- #7
Ok, kindof a bad time to be spending tons of $$ on this (is it ever a good time), and don't disagree that it's had a good long life and could use an update.
BUT - could I just buy a turbine housing and off I go? This one looks the same. Safari says it's a 0.82 A/R, it has a 5-bolt pattern on the discharge (don't know if it matches this "Ford" pattern or not), and then I'm not sure what of the options listed I need...
And then have a turbo shop rebuild the bearings and do a balance?
Just thinking crazy thoughts...
BUT - could I just buy a turbine housing and off I go? This one looks the same. Safari says it's a 0.82 A/R, it has a 5-bolt pattern on the discharge (don't know if it matches this "Ford" pattern or not), and then I'm not sure what of the options listed I need...
Code | Name | Price | |
Turbine Housing Clamps and Bolt Kit, Hardware to fasten CHRA to Turbine Housing - YES | $19.95 | | |
Steel - T3 5 bolt Discharge External WG - Weld On 3" JS Series - NO | $28.00 | | |
Stainless - T3 5 Bolt Discharge External WG - Weld On 3" JS Series - NO | $39.00 | | |
Ultimate Internal wastegate valve for T3 5Bolt, high flow 3" V-band Style, REV 2 STAINLESS CAST BODY - YES?? not sure about the V-band | $168.00 | | |
Gasket, T3 Turbine Inlet - UNDIVIDED - YES | $6.95 | | |
Stainless Steel - T3 Inlet Weld Flange - NO | $39.00 | | |
Mild Steel - T3 Inlet Weld Flange - NO | $23.00 | |
And then have a turbo shop rebuild the bearings and do a balance?
Just thinking crazy thoughts...
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- #8
@Heckraiser do you know any turbo shops in Denver besides Diesel Forward?
Also you are suggesting something like this?
I can get 0.82 A/R
I can get T3 and 5-bolt, so dimensionally it should fit up I guess.
Would need some handholding to make sure this is the right selection.
Also you are suggesting something like this?
I can get 0.82 A/R
I can get T3 and 5-bolt, so dimensionally it should fit up I guess.
Would need some handholding to make sure this is the right selection.
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I don't know much about the safari turbo-- did you measure the 5-bolt to make sure it's standard? Also, I recall the safari setup having an internal wastegate, no? :edit: looks like they have some internal WG housings on that site. Asking friends who are more in the business if they've got leads on a good turbo shop in Denver. I remember getting some rebuilt in Golden back a couple decades ago, but not sure if the shop still exists.
@scottryana for some turbo-selection hand-holding
@scottryana for some turbo-selection hand-holding
My gtx3582r will be here on Thursday 
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- #12
Where did you buy from?My gtx3582r will be here on Thursday
I got a wholesale hookup. Still have a bunch of other parts I'm putting together so its going to be a little bit before its running
Looks like thrust bearing failure, which led to air seal failure then main bearing failure. Yup, toast
Does that safari set-up have a compressor bypass valve? If not it may be the root cause of the thrust bearing failure.
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- #18
You mean blow off valve? No
I am still worried that there was a lot of heat going on. The question in my mind is whether there is damage to the engine.
A compression and leakdown test will tell you everything you need to know. Sorry, the turbo rebuilder I remember from Golden is long since out of business--no other local leads that I know of.
Similar but different. Blow off valve wastes compressed air overboard. Bypass redirects the air back to the intake side of turbo. It keeps the turbo spinning between gear changes so you don’t loose wheel inertia and also prevents thrust loading on the thrust washer, as does the blow off valve. But why waste already compressed air overboard?
Plus blow off noise sounds stupid IMOP.
