1FZ turbo exhaust manifold has arrived from Oz (w/ pics)

Toyo Boyo

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Hi guys,

After a Christmas induced shipping delay, my turbo exhaust manifold has finally arrived from Australia. The delay has messed up my project timing plan big time as I am off to New Zealand for most of February, so won't get this fitted until March.

Anyways, I got it off these guys - Turbo-Glide: Welcome to Turbo Glide - the service was excellent.

My first impression of this thing is WOW - it is built like a battleship. The flanges are over 1/2'' thick as is the (very neat) slip joint. It weighs in at about 24lbs.

The two halves

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The rear section - note the T3 flange needs to be milled out slightly (I'm being picky I suppose)

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The front section

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View showing the EGR vent and the machining of the face

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The assembled manifold (heat shield spigots not threaded grrrr)

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A close up view of the slip joint - hefty for sure

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The rear OE gasket on place, + metal all around the flanges - good

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The front OE gasket - same + metal all around

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A closer shot of the T3 flange - note the manifold will be trimmed to this size.

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My only gripe is that not all of the heat shielding holes are threaded - but the spigots are there so I will tap them to about 6mm. And I will enlarge the outlet - but thats about it.

I am very happy with this manifold. Roll on the build WOOOHOOOOOOOO

:D
 
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I take it from the design that this mounts the turbo below the manifold? What was the cost?
The design of my turbo exhaust manifold mounts the turbo on the top. I like the idea of the turbo mounted under the manifold as it may free up space on the top for an air to water intercooler, eliminating additional fabrication, tubing, silicone hoses etc. for one mounted in front of the radiator.
Turbo%20Build%20011.jpg
Turbo%20Build%20008.jpg
 
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I see they offer air-to-water intercoolers for the 80 as well. I can't enlarge their pictures, but would be interested in this as well.
 

Toyo Boyo

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I take it from the design that this mounts the turbo below the manifold? What was the cost?
The design of my turbo exhaust manifold mounts the turbo on the top. I like the idea of the turbo mounted under the manifold as it may free up space on the top for an air to water intercooler, eliminating additional fabrication, tubing, silicone hoses etc. for one mounted in front of the radiator.

Correct. I'm basically copying what Toyota do with the 4.2 turbo diesels. I will be top mounting an air to air intercooler, and yes correct again - it does make for very short pipe runs. From memory I think it was about $700AU - not sure what that is in your $$'s lol.

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MSGrunt - give them a call - have a chat to John - very helpful guy indeed, and very knowledgable..

:D
 
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I like the design. I am thinking about taking the turbo off my 97 and putting it on my 96, but I would like to avoid having an intercooler in front of the radiator. With the intercooler in front of the radiator I had to modify my hood latch, eliminate the transmission cooler and replace it with an aftermarket one, cut a large hole through the front bib and run a lot of tubing. I am thinking that an air-to-water intercooler in the engine bay would make for a cleaner install and with the turbo undernieth the manifold I would have more room for the intercooler.
 
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$700.00 Australian converts to $495.00 US. Plus shipping of course. Not a bad price depending on what shipping would cost.
 

Toyo Boyo

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$700.00 Australian converts to $495.00 US. Plus shipping of course. Not a bad price depending on what shipping would cost.

I thought it was a good price too. I looked what else was available (ebay one like yours) or fab one out of elbows (like Dusty's, but that cracked and his fabbing skills are way better mine) and settled for this one.

I opted for sea freight which was about $50AU (I think!). Air freight was expensive - IIRC as much as $200AU - but get a quote to make sure.
 
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nice manifold.

you said t3 gaskets??? so you are going to run a t3 then? if the manifold was made for a t3 then a t3 must work?

keep the build posted
 
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A t3 with and internal gate. Limited output.. it does look to be a simple solution to get a low boost installed however.
 

Toyo Boyo

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nice manifold.

you said t3 gaskets??? so you are going to run a t3 then? if the manifold was made for a t3 then a t3 must work?

keep the build posted

Hi Dusty,

The T3 flange dimensions were used on many different turbo's. This means that if the turbo I am trying out (CT26, I've made an adaptor plate) doesn't work too well I've got a big choice of others I can go for.

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And yeah, build will be posted with lots of pics.

Getting a bit obsessive about it now, I need a :beer:
 

Toyo Boyo

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A t3 with and internal gate. Limited output.. it does look to be a simple solution to get a low boost installed however.

Hi Ducati996,

Simplicity - that is one of my main criteria. Low boost too. And upgradeable when the bug bites me!. Also, the way I have worked out my build, it is all 'undoable' should the smelly stuff hit the fan.

I wanted to go down the route of low budget but not 'cheapo'.

I have been following your planned build and it is the opposite end of the scale from what I am doing. What you are planning is awesome. You will end up with a beast of a truck with the $$$ you are spending. I'm really looking forward to your build.

A comment Dusty made I liked - that with simple low boost you end up with all the original power without having to crank it up to silly rev ranges (#23 of https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/88793-turbo-build.html).

I'm basically trying to keep this to minimum :banana: :)
 

Toyo Boyo

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How well do you think that slip joint will really seal up?

Very well spotted my observant friend!

I have been pondering this myself. The joint is a close fit but there will be some slight passing of exhaust gases as it warms up and seals itself.

The Toyota diesel manifold has two rings, two clips and two gaskets. I have one of these maniolds in my garage - I will split it tomorrow to see what I can see. This pic off Toyodiy.com

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I have a pic of what Safari did with their split manifold. Much simpler with only two rings and two mating grooves. I'd love to know what those rings are made of. I could get the grooves machined before the build.

safarisliprings.jpg
 
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speaking of those sealing rings... Are they on the diesel and Safari manifold because they are needed for sealing purposes? Did Turbo-Glide not incorporate them into their design because they are not needed or was it just a matter of cost? If you were to try and design your on rings I wonder if small psiton rings off some other piston would work? I guess knowing the rings properties would be key.

Did you ask Turbo-Glide about this and what was their response???

Additionally, this design was used by Toyota on the 3F...
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Order those rings, #15 and #16, and see if the size is close to the Turbo-Glide manifold... Or maybe Dan can tell you the diameter???
 

landtank

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from what i've read Safari used Toyota rings in their manifold. I think you will need them as I had a FJ60 which was a split manifold and when those rings get old the manifold leaks quite a bit. That might be another source to look at as they cpuld be a different size than the others.
 

landtank

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Something else I just noticed is that manifold hasn't been back faced. That's really something that should have been done.

You might want to check that flange thickness as well. More that a 1/2" and the studs aren't long enough for the metal lock nuts to lock up. The other manifold pictured by MSGGRunt had the same problem.
 
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\You might want to check that flange thickness as well. More that a 1/2" and the studs aren't long enough for the metal lock nuts to lock up. The other manifold pictured by MSGGRunt had the same problem.

so true
i ran the oe studs (new ones) to attach the turnonetics manifold (after my welded job failed). the turbonetics manifold is 1/2" thick-overkill

the oe studs are not long enough. but as of yet the manifold still seems to be tight
 

Toyo Boyo

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Hi guys, thanks for all the responses, it is appreciated.

Turboglide got right back to me about the slip joint. They rely on heat sealing it. They said that the Safari system leaks as the seals age (the clearance for the seal becomes the issue). This slip joint has very little clearance to start with. I think firing this baby up will answer our questions.

One thing I did notice - on each section of the OE manifolds the middle pair of flange bolt holes are quite close on the stud diameter. The outer pairs of holes (on each manifold) are plus 2mm on diameter to allow for expansion. So what happens is that the centre holes maintain the manifolds position. The new manifold does not have this, they are all one diameter. I will drill the outer holes of each half of the casting oversize to mimic the Toyota set up.

Rick - the back face you refer to? Where the nut will sit - right? I stripped the truck yesterday and fitted the manifold to see what I could see. The nuts seemed to sit ok and the stud lengths looked good too - see attached pics. New studs and nuts. It won't be difficult to spot face the manifold where the nut sits.

Manifold in place...........

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Close up of slip joint - good engagement plus you can see the stud

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I put the truck back to stock yesterday - I have a weekend of wheeling so had to stop the project.

Please carry on with the comments - I need all the help I can get LOL

:cheers:
 

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