S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert! (2 Viewers)

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Phwew things got fierce in here!

I appreciate the brain trust here for folks that want to keep the SAIS system or defeat it. The "workaround" posted and then deleted was an interesting one, but maybe it needed its own thread.
 
My 07 is approaching 300k without any issues or codes. No known work on anything related to the SAIS system.

I really don’t want to deal with pulling the intake manifold again, as the starter was recently replaced.

What should I do? Keep riding it out? Hewitt? Bite the bullet and do the mod? Nearly every other common 100 series problem has been addressed on the rig.
 
My 07 is approaching 300k without any issues or codes. No known work on anything related to the SAIS system.

I really don’t want to deal with pulling the intake manifold again, as the starter was recently replaced.

What should I do? Keep riding it out? Hewitt? Bite the bullet and do the mod? Nearly every other common 100 series problem has been addressed on the rig.

To the folks saying why not drive a Prius...I'd be super happy to drive one... although that was meant for @2001LC I guess, who btw is great respected member of our community, giving great advise & suggestions on this forum..IMHO I bet he would have no issues driving a Prius. We need to be men and accept its a good car. Hybrids imho are the way to go for the foreseeable future. I aint have time to site for 15-30 min on fast charge every 300 miles. Anyways thats my rant.

For those who want to see the AIP bypass MOD here is the link to that thread I started... Peace...

@xeuxaz @GremlinMobile @Rhetoric
 
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My 07 is approaching 300k without any issues or codes. No known work on anything related to the SAIS system.

I really don’t want to deal with pulling the intake manifold again, as the starter was recently replaced.

What should I do? Keep riding it out? Hewitt? Bite the bullet and do the mod? Nearly every other common 100 series problem has been addressed on the rig.
There lies the problem. People get confused and thinking they should install a block-off kit as a PM. Why, because they read about it.

Here is what I do and recommend today:

1) I use a borescope to inspect the S.A.I. filter.

A) If filter gone or signs falling apart. I recommend the filter mod adding a replaceable filter ASAP, period!

B) IfI find, filter in place. I grade it, based on color & texture. We then push-off replacement to a future date, an keep close eye on the filter.

It also depens on vehicle use. A trail rig speeding most hours on dusty roads, we watch very closely. Any sign filter breaking down, we install the mod/filter ASAP.

In any case, I will not disable the S.A.I. system. Doing so, is illegal in street use vehicles.

I spent a lot of time, I R&R the intake manifold creating the mod and determine why we get certain DTC and why certain parts fail. Why certain S.A.I. DTC, that a Toyota TBS, recommends replacing all S.A.I. components.

Each must make up their own mind, as to how best maintain their vehicle. Me, I do not block off S.A.I system, for anyone. I do not install spark plug extenders on CAT/O2. I determine why something has fail or at least try and correct. The filter of the S.A.I. is a known issue, not just by me and other gear heads. But by Toyota (See GX recall). Toyota should be taking care of us and all engine with this filter. Will they, not likely, unless forced to.
 
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Sorry I apologize @2001LC. It was not my intention to piss you or hijack your thread. or anyone off.. I will take my post down..

I do however disagree on some of what you mention in terms of MAF and such. I also run OBD2 scanner and monitor my fuel trims and found no change on FT's.
Anyways not here to disagree. I find your post very informative and educational. I apologize again..
I've had a guy with an 07, call me at 3PM July 3rd. While on his way out of town for the 4th. He was about 2 hour north of me, when he got a CEL. He carries a OBD II reader, and pulled coded indicating BK 1 & BK 2 running rich. I told him, do not drive the 2 hours back to me. Running rich could flood his CAT and burn them up ($4k in OEM parts). I recommended Dealership closest to him. None would take him until after the 4th.

I then, recommended he get new MAF form dealership, or parts store if only choice. Even though, He did not have a MAF code. But, I knew he had a Hewitt S.A.I. wired into MAF. I'd said to him, the only reason I suggested MAF was that I saw the kit was wired in the MAF. He replaced the MAF, and no further issue as of yet.

Was it the Hewitt kit wired into MAF, that damaged it. I can't say that for sure. But, it was first time I've seen both banks rich kick off a CEL, without a MAF DTC.
 
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There lies the problem. People get confused and thinking they should install a block-off kit as a PM. Why, because they read about it.

Here's is what I do and recommend, today:

1) I use a borescope to inspect the S.A.I. filter.

A) If filter gone or signs falling apart. I recommend the filter mod adding a replaceable filter ASAP, period!

B) IfI find, filter in place. I grade it, based on color & texture. We then push-off replacement to a future date, an keep close eye on the filter.

It also depens on vehicle use. A trail rig speeding most hours on dusty roads, we watch very closely. Any sign filter breaking down, we install the mod/filter ASAP.

In any case, I will not disable the S.A.I. system. Doing so, is illegal in street use vehicles.

I spent a lot of time, I R&R the intake manifold creating the mod and determine why we get certain DTC and why certain parts fail. Why certain S.A.I. DTC, that a Toyota TBS, recommends replacing all S.A.I. components.

Each must make up their own mind, as to how best maintain their vehicle. Me I do not block off S.A.I system, for anyone. I do not install spark plug extenders. I determine why something has fail or try to always, and correct. The filter is a known issue, not just by me. But by Toyota (See GX recall). Toyota should be taking care of use and all engine with this filter. Will they, not likely, unless forced to.
Thanks for the thoughtful and detailed response. I’ll check the filter on my next oil change and make a plan.
 
I'm considering doing this mod on my 2006 LC, but I need to move fast as in 9 days I will loose access to a garage to work in. I tried searching for a DIY on removing the intake manifold and could not find one. Can anyone point to one?
 
I'm considering doing this mod on my 2006 LC, but I need to move fast as in 9 days I will loose access to a garage to work in. I tried searching for a DIY on removing the intake manifold and could not find one. Can anyone point to one?
I have video uploaded couple days ago doing the same mod and replacing some vent hoses, but upon removal of the intake I found a coolant leak and rodents eat knock sensor's wire halfway, So I ordered parts from Dubai to finish the project. Intake removal is very simple and straight forward. Here is a video
 
I have video uploaded couple days ago doing the same mod and replacing some vent hoses, but upon removal of the intake I found a coolant leak and rodents eat knock sensor's wire halfway, So I ordered parts from Dubai to finish the project. Intake removal is very simple and straight forward. Here is a video

Just watched. Well done! As a former professional cinematographer, thank you for having a steady support for your camera! (I'm guessing iPhone).
 
Just watched. Well done! As a former professional cinematographer, thank you for having a steady support for your camera! (I'm guessing iPhone).
Just an iPhone and using Temo 10 bucks tripod. Just a quick tip for you, I suggest not to unplug SAIS pump harnesses, if you do, those harnesses will shatter into pieces. If you are planing to unplug the pump then I suggest to order these connectors ahead of time. Here is the part numbers for those two harness connectors 90980-11149 and 90980-10845.
One more tip before you tackle this job, many people replace the fuel line metal gaskets once they remove them. There will be two metal gaskets used for fuel dampner. Part number for those are 2323241081 and 9043012026. I have always re-used those metal gaskets and had never saw them leak.
 
Just an iPhone and using Temo 10 bucks tripod. Just a quick tip for you, I suggest not to unplug SAIS pump harnesses, if you do, those harnesses will shatter into pieces. If you are planing to unplug the pump then I suggest to order these connectors ahead of time. Here is the part numbers for those two harness connectors 90980-11149 and 90980-10845.
One more tip before you tackle this job, many people replace the fuel line metal gaskets once they remove them. There will be two metal gaskets used for fuel dampner. Part number for those are 2323241081 and 9043012026. I have always re-used those metal gaskets and had never saw them leak.
Great video! I need to do this. Will wait for you to list all the part numbers as you finish up part 2 including the “cement” hoses.
 
Here are the part numbers if some of you are planing this mod. This will save you guys a lot of headache in future by having these parts handy.
QTY 1 Universal 25mm Motor Cycle Cold Air Intake Filter Kit Price 1.19. Aliexpress or eBay
QTY 2. GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD TO HEAD, NO.1 Part Number 1717150030
QTY 1. HOSE, NO.2(FOR AIR INJECTION SYSTEM) Part Number 1734250180
QTY 1. HOSE, NO.1(FOR AIR INJECTION SYSTEM)
Part Number 1734150180
QTY 4. GASKET(FOR WATER BY-PASS) Part Number 1634150020 (Buy this only if You have coolant leak inside the intake Vally )
QTY 1. O Ring for Water Bypass Metal Pipe. Part Number 9676124019
. (Not needed but good to have one, just in case you need to remove bypass pipe, you can’t reuse the old O ring)
QTY 8. INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION. Part Number 2329141010. (Buy these if You are planing to renew injectors old vibration insulators)
QTY 9. RING, O(FOR FUEL DELIVERY PIPE) Part Number 9030107037. (Buy 9 of these in case you are planing to renew injectors O rings, 8 will be needed for injectors and 1 is needed for Fuel Pressure dampener on the right side of the engine “Passenger Side”)
QTY 5. BOLT, UNION(FOR FUEL PIPE NO.2) Part Number 9043012026. (4 of these washers are needed for the front fuel line Banjo Bolts that shares fuel flow between two banks the metal pipe goes over the top of the intake manifold. 1 is needed for fuel dampener banjo bolt on the left side.)
QTY 1. GASKET(FOR FUEL PIPE NO.2) Part Number 2323241081 (This gasket/washer is needed for fuel dampener on the left side banjo bolt)
QTY 1. Housing, Connector F. Part Number 90980-11149 (Must buy this, if you are planning to unplug SAIS Pump, this is two prong female connector. The old one will most likely break when you are unplugging it)
QTY 1. Housing Connector F. Part Number 90980-10845 (Must buy this, if you are planing to disconnect SAIS Pump. This is three prong female connector. The old will break when you are unplugging it.)
Reason for edit was to make correction to the part number for O ring for the metal bypass pipe. Apologies.
 
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Intake manifold (IM) removal tips:
  • Clean top of engine of all debris. once engine cover off, before removing anything else. Pay special attention to area between each head and where Intake manifold attaches to them. Sand' anywhere on top area, will very likely fall into intake ports if you don't. When done, just before installing intake manifold (IM). Look in each intake port with flash light. Vacuum out, every spec of dust. I've seen my share or bad compression, from failing too clean.
  • Bent engine hoist hooks outward. This gives, just a tad more room getting IM in and out.
  • Be supper careful installing IM, to not bump/hit rubber IM gaskets, as you work IM back into place. One hit on metal, gasket will be damaged 9 out of 10 times.
  • If not replacing starter, knock sensor or other S.A.I. parts (i.e. pump or main SW). We only need R&R cap. By heating (heat gun, hair drier) and remove S.A.I. pumps cap, to remove old filter from top of pump. We do not need to remove any other parts, from under IM.
 
I have 2006, upon opening SAIS pump there was no filter, either there was no filter from factory or if there was one, it turned into dust. But I had no check engine light.
 
I have 2006, upon opening SAIS pump there was no filter, either there was no filter from factory or if there was one, it turned into dust. But I had no check engine light.
Filters was sucked into and eaten by impeller.

DTC don't happen, just because no filter. But in time, the dust entering system, will result in DTC. These DTC can be just SAI related and or CATs. Even engine. It depends on how much dust (sand) for how long.
 
I am including the pictures of SAIS Pump in case someone needs it for reference. One extra thing I would like to add. The connector Housing for fuel injectors and the knock sensor is the same part number. In case anyone breaks fuel injector connector or knock sensor connector for either bank. The part number is for connector Housing F is 9098011875.
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The blue color 25mm filter that you added to the SAIS opening could only be changed in the future by also removing the manifold? Is there a concern that the filter could get clogged with dust and debris requiring large maintenance on a more regular basis than is practical?
 
The blue color 25mm filter that you added to the SAIS opening could only be changed in the future by also removing the manifold? Is there a concern that the filter could get clogged with dust and debris requiring large maintenance on a more regular basis than is practical?
Highly unlikely for this aftermarket add-on filter to get clogged and don't need to get replace but if you decide to replace it, the only way to access it, is by removing the intake manifold.
2001LC has installed this filter outside of the intake manifold by adding an extended breather tube/hose and routed it out of the intake manifold. I am leaving mine inside the intake, I have seen few Lexus GX or Sequoia owner leaving the filter inside.
 
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW!

I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;)

This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT (Catalytic Converters) DTC (AKA: CEL. AKA: MIL. AKA: codes) P0420 (BK1 CAT) & P0430 (BK2 CAT), and likely both will need replacing. The damage will continue until engine is trashed, if not corrected.

These engine were the first 100 series to have the emission reducing Secondary Air Injection System ( AKA: S.A.I. system or A.I.). I'll just refer to as S.A.I. or A.I..

** Edited 9/7/24 S.A.I. filter, is being suck into impeller of pump. We now have reason to believe: The filter is shrinking and air flow being restricted with age and dust. The more server (heat, cold, humidity) the climate, the faster filter fails.

** Edited 9/14/23: In 2021 or thereabouts. Lexus began a campaign to replace all GX S.A.I filters. The TSB points to moisture as possible cause of filter breaking down. I'm now of the opinion that all Toyota & Lexus will need this S.A.I. replaceable filters ($20) mod, or S.A.I. pump replaced ($600 part) as PM.

After ~5 years reading (in mud) about these codes (P0420 and P0430) coming up with no real cause or legal fix found. I spent the last two years on a 100 series 2UZ-fe VVT engine (my test rig). That I bought with CAT & S.A.I. issues. Just to understand, find, correct and test a fix with. I've decided, it is time to post my findings in mud.

THIS IS NOT WHY all CAT's FAIL. But it is very likely all in the 4.7L VVT engine will fail, because of the S.A.I. filter failing. The modification you'll see here, will save the VVT engine, and it keep street legal. For just pennies on the dollar. So cheap and easy!

I've found what is going to take out our CAT's. Unless this legal modification done. We're faced with, Toyota Dealership fix. Which is near $10K (If both CAT plus S.A.I. DTC (CEL) pop up. Toyota fix, is not a permanent. This filter S.A.I. MOD, is a permanent fix.

The SAI system will kick off DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) P1442, P1445 and or P2441. Which are the SAI switch(s) "stuck closed". These switches typically will test okay, but keep kicking off DTC indicating stuck closed. Toyota has TSB on these. That my Toyota parts guy gave me, when I asked about P1442 & P1445. Which are, Bk1 & BK2 SAI switches, which sit on water bypass joint rear. The TSB, recommends replacing all mechanical parts of SAI system, with a notation * Replace ONLY If damaged by debris. Reuse parts when possible. Which in 2019 was about $3K in parts, just for SAI stuff. Some block-off the S.A.L system, which solves the issue. But, Blocking off S.A.I., is not street legal (Off-road use only). Because block-off kits, increase air pollution, beyond manufacture design. These block-off kits (depending on which kit), are also cause other issues.

The part in the S.A.I. am I talking about.. Is a small foam filter, just inside the secondary air injection blower fan (S.A.I. pump)

Here is a factory SAI filter in good condition, exposed. It resides, under the top of Secondary Air Injection Pump - Toyota (17610-0C010) (Blower) without bracket, list for ~$600 today.
View attachment 2861773
This bit of foam filter material measures, is from a failed SAI filter. It's about 15mm x 5mm. Which is only remnants of a SAI pump filter found remaining in my test engine.
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A links to other area info posted in mud on S.A.I DTCs:
Similar problem On my 460 the foam in the sai melted. Took some work getting everything cleaned out and added the external filter but continued get fault codes and ended up installing the bypass kit.
 

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