Rusty bolt removal (2 Viewers)

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Hello...you need to contact one of the major tool companies ASAP and get patented or in production before I do:D

I can't take original credit for this idea. I actually got it from the TLCA mailing list when it was active. One of the members described it and I built it. It really does work well...
 
Subscribed..I like the Torch and Kroil idea...thanks.
 
I wish I would have read this thread first. I broke off my alternator bolt, then drilled it and broke off an easy out bit with Mild force. I rigged a bolt and washer stack in the alternator bracket in order to keep tension to move the truck around the yard until I remedy the issue.

:steer:
 
If you haven't broke them off yet try Windex window cleaner on them ,put it on first reapply a few times let it soak over night then try loosening it sounds silly but it works as good as any penetrating oil I have tried and its Cheap! If that doesn't work and you brake it off I use the nut and stainless welding rod trick
 
"sweat" regular candle wax into the threads of the stuck bolt or nut just like soldering copper pipe. You don't need to get it red hot, just warm enough to melt the wax. Worked amazing on leaf bolts and bumper bolts on my 60.
 
"Freeze the bolt/nut to expand it"
How is it the cold makes the nut and bolt expand?
"Contraction" maybe?
The only thing i know of is WATER can expand and contract with heat and cold.
Am I missing something?
 
I use a coarse wire wheel to strip off all rust and paint, heat it if possible with a Mapp gas torch (Oxy/Acet is MUCH better) let it cool, give it a shot of PB Blaster, THEN try to get it loose with either an impact gun set on a low setting, to just bang the crap out of it without actually breaking it off, or this thing that I built from parts laying around. It is great for small bolts and especially Phillips screws. Set air pressure low, attach your bit of choice, grab the handle, push hard, pull the trigger, let if vibrate for several seconds to break the rust bond, then start turning the handle while still pulling the trigger. Works really well on windshield screws!

You will develop a 6th sense about whether or not a bolt can be gotten loose.
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This makes me think of putting a Yankey Driver in an impact gun.
Impact tools are great for breaking rust. The hammering adds heat.
Welding a standard size nut on top of any fastener will get er to go.
 
Soak it in kroil over and over and over. Sometimes if you tighten the bolt ever so slightly it will help break the rust so you can back it off. You WILL get bloody knuckles!

This is a great point. If you have a fastener that you get removed and the next fastener is through the same piece of steel.
Drive a new fastener into the old hole, Right away. [use never siege Bronze type]
This added down pressure will help get the next fastener come loose.
You torque down a head on your engine. If You just start taking the head bolts off one by one from front to back.
You can crack the head. 1/4 turn each until the pressure is released equally.
I did tires for 30 years and I have had to tighten the two lugs down on either side of a jammed cleat and nut.
Most people never think of putting back what took so much effort to take out before the whole part is OFF.
Bad Idea.
This is also why the rubber pads under the outer body parts is needed also
Seals and leaves room to over tighten the fastener without breaking off the head or stripping it.
 
I really like the ideas, prevention is better than messing around, or something like that :clap:
My neighbor has made this heating device from an old microwave and it works great, no flame, no burning oil or bad stuff, pinpoint heat, red hot:

CAUTION: Make sure you're familiar with the dangers of opening a microwave, because there are components inside that may still carry a charge and could hurt, or even kill you. Even if the microwave isn't plugged in.

How to Turn a Microwave Oven Transformer into a High Amperage Metal Melter! « Mad Science

 
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