Rust proofing with cosmoline (2 Viewers)

[jonheld]

Well still haven't made a purchase of anything, too busy. This fluid film is much cheaper than a lot of other options. Their website says u cant spray it with a pump sprayer in the faq. ****e. I imagine i can take it to work and use some air there. How messy and smelly is it applying this stuff?
It might sound like a no brainer taking it to my work (toyota dealership) and doing it on a lift, but those techs bitch like crazy about **** and i can see them complaining if the smell or aerosol drifts into other bays. Any info?

Read post 28. I did 5 trucks in my driveway.
You won't be able to do it with a garden weed sprayer. It has the viscosity of latex paint, so an electric sprayer would work, but I had great results from the cheap air sprayer I bought.
The smell is similar to "wet dog" but it dissipates in a day or 2. I plan to do this every fall.

 

[hamishpotter]

You can stop by anytime and I can spray the bottom of your 80 with corrosionx HD. I have some on hand.

Scott I might just do that - thanks!

 

[atvhead]

I guess this is an old thread...BFWIW

I have been using Fluid Film for a while and I know of several highway departments using it as well. Do not use anything but FF for vehicle undercarriage protection. Its safe for plastics, rubber, paint and will stop and/or protect all metals from rust. I even use it to coat chrome and chrome painted trim parts. Works like a charm. Yes you should reapply about once a year, but just buy a few aerosol cans at Lowes and go to town. Do it!

 

[atvhead]

Oh yea - and you should buy a special spray nozzle/tube that helps you get into small spaces, through holes etc. Amazon has them.

 

[Hornd]

Go to Lowes and get a few spray cans of FF before you get sprayer, compressor, and buy a gallon.
It's $10 can.

 

[warezdog]

Go to Lowes and get a few spray cans of FF before you get sprayer, compressor, and buy a gallon.
It's $10 can.

You get gallons for $10?

 

[atvhead]

the aerosol cans are 10 at Lowes. I can do my whole full size GMC pickup with 4 cans easily

 

[Hornd]

Shop Fluid Film 11.75-oz Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Preventive Penetrant & Lubricant at Lowes.com

I have a google machine

 

[team420]

I just use my old used motor oil, and spray it on once or twice a year. I also have a compressor, and a pneumatic sprayer that holds 1 gallon. Works great as long as I dont foget to do it....

 

[warezdog]

Shop Fluid Film 11.75-oz Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Preventive Penetrant & Lubricant at Lowes.com

I have a google machine

I thought you meant GALLON cans for that price in your previous post!

 

[Hornd]

I thought you meant GALLON cans for that price in your previous post!

I like how you think.
They also have it at Autozone. It's $12 and change just saw it about 20 mins ago.

 

[JOFS]

I like how you think.
They also have it at Autozone. It's $12 and change just saw it about 20 mins ago.

Gallon cans are 39.99 at napa

That is the cheapest I have found it.

John

 

[Hornd]

FLUID FILM CA Lubricant/Corrosion Inhibitor, 1 Gal.

The gun that Fluid Film sent me is a Astro Pneumatics
Astro Pneumatic 4538 Economy Air Undercoating Gun

 

[warezdog]

FLUID FILM CA Lubricant/Corrosion Inhibitor, 1 Gal.

The gun that Fluid Film sent me is a Astro Pneumatics
Astro Pneumatic 4538 Economy Air Undercoating Gun

How did that gun work for you?

 

[Hornd]

How did that gun work for you?

Great for doing frame rails. Does not atomize, more like a clogged aerosol can. Hit with compressed air to even out coating.

 

[Redbullssg]

Well, now having experience in using RP-342 Cosmoline, as well as fluid film, they both have their place. Bottom line, Cosmoline out performs Fluid film by a long shot. It isn't like tradition undercoatings, that are really bad or worse than just leaving it alone and paint only. Cosmoline will completely seal out moisture and oxygen, permanently...

Now I said both have thier place. Cosmoline is more permanent, it won't wash off, can't even power wash it off. You have to use some sort of solvent to get it off. So in an area that you can't easily reach, that maybe later you want to remove it, I wouldn't use there, and Fluid film may be better, as you can easily rinse it away, inside door panels, body panels, etc. It is perfect for anything under body. It drys semi hard, and doesnt attract dirt, looks clean and perfect for a very very long time and is self healing. Moisture can NOT get under it, it will NOT peal, and once it's on, will never rust there again. It feels like paint in a way, and is not sticky.

I had planned on cleaning all the rust from my frame, but found it was nearly impossible to remove it all without taking the body off the frame. I couldn't do it before winter, so I power washed everything I couldn't reach to remove the rust. Removed most of the scale I could, and said screw it until I can pull the body. Sprayed it over the rust just to stop it for the winter, or at least slow it... You can still see the rust through the amber colored spray, but it has never rusted again, or formed more under it. It literally soaked and wicked into the rust and stopped oxygen and moisture from entering and stopped it... I am a soldid believer in it now... Best thing is, it's 133 bucks for a case of 12 aerosol cans, and I used maybe 6 cans to do it all... Cosmolinedirect.com... Frame looks like new still... They sell black rp342 as well, I ended up doing my axles in it instead of painting them, and looks just like my frame that I painted before coating. Wish I had skipped paint and just used the Black.

I learned about this after researching fluid film annally, and found a few guys that did this in the upper north eastern states, where I'm from, and drive them daily in the Salt and snow, and their underbody and frame look like new, with no maintenance from several years before. Fluid film does not, is not as good as this, bottom line, no if ands or buts.. The only maintenance I've done is where is change my fuel filters on the inner frame rail and the diesel dissolved it a bit. Just sprayed over it to make sure it was good to go.

But like I said, fluid film has its place as well as Cos, and work well together in different applications. Just have to think about it, Cosmoline is more permanently applied and fluid film is more easily applied in areas hard to reach, like bed rails, inside holes etc. ...

 

[kw90surf]

I’ve used fluid film and other wet undercoatings in the past, and my experience with fluid film has been that it’s an excellent all-around undercoating that requires little to no prep. It creeps and self-heals decently, but it does wash off. So by the end of a wet winter (winters are wet where I am and there is a lot of spray) the fluid film will be long gone off the leading edges of axles, steering and brake parts, wheel wells, and driveshafts. It also gets hot and runs off, so engines, rear heater pipes etc will be dry by winters end and will flash/rust.

I did my 80 in cosmoline this fall and expect that it will work quite well. As mentioned it’s only as good as the application, so I cleaned everything real good, removed a lot of parts and used a gallon of the “industrial grade” as well as 4 cans of RP-342. Also filled the insides of the frame rails and panel cavities with red Rust Check which creeps very well and doesn’t seem to break down the cosmoline (fluid film does).

Time will tell how it works, but initial indications are good.

 

[kw90surf]

Well, now having experience in using RP-342 Cosmoline, as well as fluid film, they both have their place. Bottom line, Cosmoline out performs Fluid film by a long shot. It isn't like tradition undercoatings, that are really bad or worse than just leaving it alone and paint only. Cosmoline will completely seal out moisture and oxygen, permanently...

Now I said both have thier place. Cosmoline is more permanent, it won't wash off, can't even power wash it off. You have to use some sort of solvent to get it off. So in an area that you can't easily reach, that maybe later you want to remove it, I wouldn't use there, and Fluid film may be better, as you can easily rinse it away, inside door panels, body panels, etc. It is perfect for anything under body. It drys semi hard, and doesnt attract dirt, looks clean and perfect for a very very long time and is self healing. Moisture can NOT get under it, it will NOT peal, and once it's on, will never rust there again. It feels like paint in a way, and is not sticky.

I had planned on cleaning all the rust from my frame, but found it was nearly impossible to remove it all without taking the body off the frame. I couldn't do it before winter, so I power washed everything I couldn't reach to remove the rust. Removed most of the scale I could, and said screw it until I can pull the body. Sprayed it over the rust just to stop it for the winter, or at least slow it... You can still see the rust through the amber colored spray, but it has never rusted again, or formed more under it. It literally soaked and wicked into the rust and stopped oxygen and moisture from entering and stopped it... I am a soldid believer in it now... Best thing is, it's 133 bucks for a case of 12 aerosol cans, and I used maybe 6 cans to do it all... Cosmolinedirect.com... Frame looks like new still... They sell black rp342 as well, I ended up doing my axles in it instead of painting them, and looks just like my frame that I painted before coating. Wish I had skipped paint and just used the Black.

I learned about this after researching fluid film annally, and found a few guys that did this in the upper north eastern states, where I'm from, and drive them daily in the Salt and snow, and their underbody and frame look like new, with no maintenance from several years before. Fluid film does not, is not as good as this, bottom line, no if ands or buts.. The only maintenance I've done is where is change my fuel filters on the inner frame rail and the diesel dissolved it a bit. Just sprayed over it to make sure it was good to go.

But like I said, fluid film has its place as well as Cos, and work well together in different applications. Just have to think about it, Cosmoline is more permanently applied and fluid film is more easily applied in areas hard to reach, like bed rails, inside holes etc. ...

Any updates, or pics of your 80’s underside now?

 

[cruiserpilot]

I’ve used fluid film and other wet undercoatings in the past, and my experience with fluid film has been that it’s an excellent all-around undercoating that requires little to no prep. It creeps and self-heals decently, but it does wash off. So by the end of a wet winter (winters are wet where I am and there is a lot of spray) the fluid film will be long gone off the leading edges of axles, steering and brake parts, wheel wells, and driveshafts. It also gets hot and runs off, so engines, rear heater pipes etc will be dry by winters end and will flash/rust.

I did my 80 in cosmoline this fall and expect that it will work quite well. As mentioned it’s only as good as the application, so I cleaned everything real good, removed a lot of parts and used a gallon of the “industrial grade” as well as 4 cans of RP-342. Also filled the insides of the frame rails and panel cavities with red Rust Check which creeps very well and doesn’t seem to break down the cosmoline (fluid film does).

Time will tell how it works, but initial indications are good.


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Think you could post a picture of the actual can of Cosmoline that you use? So I can see exactly what it is. I keep seeing the name, but
this stuff comes in all kinds of brands. An a pic of the RP-342 as well. Thanks. I've been holding off, but looks like my 60 is about
to see winter duty.

 

[kw90surf]

Think you could post a picture of the actual can of Cosmoline that you use? So I can see exactly what it is. I keep seeing the name, but
this stuff comes in all kinds of brands. An a pic of the RP-342 as well. Thanks. I've been holding off, but looks like my 60 is about
to see winter duty.

Sure thing. I used Cosmolinedirect’s RP342 “Industrial grade” in bulk for the chassis and most of the underside. I used RP342 “Black” for the wheel wells, because they accidentally sent me some. And I used RP342 in spray cans for the engine bay and smaller pieces of hardware, etc.. I also used CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor in spray cans, which is essentially the same as the RP342, just lays down a little nicer.

I noticed that the RP342 Black (Id assume regular RP342 would be the same) came out of the jug almost like water, where the industrial grade came out like 20w-50. It laid on really thick, which I liked.