Rust Prevention (1 Viewer)

[PLPResto]

I spray woolwax inside nearly every frame I repair. A simple spray gun at 70-90 psi is more than enough to move the product. You do not have to heat it at all. Just keep it above 50 degrees and you will be fine. If you need to thin it before application use/mix with vegatable oil, I use the 2 1/2 gal product, best way to purchase. The biggest difference between FF and WW is the odor. WW is nearly odor free, FF has a lingering smell that takes a while to disapate (I don't use this product inside doors, hatches or interior quarter panels because of the smell), WW is thicker than FF, both are lanolin based, FF tends to wash off quicker, you can purchase and apply a "thicker" WW product for frame applications (Creep n Crawl), anything you apply is useless without proper prep work, you can use any oil solvent to coat the rust but it will not stop the rust. Rust is the oxidation of metal exposed to the natural elements, oxygen and water chemical reactions) that has to be nuetralized before it gets corrosive and eats through the metal that is exposed. POR15, Chassis Saver, Eastwood Encapsulate and all other similar products just trap the oxidation and corrosion. These products do not stop the chemical reaction from continuing.

These observations are from "hands-on" use and application. I do not work for WW, I am not affiliated in any way with WW, but I have over 3 years experience using this product and never had any issues with it. Did I mention that the prep work done prior to application will dictate the end result??? (Piss-poor prep equals piss-poor performance!)

Woolwax is the best lanolin on the market today.

 

[PLPResto]

I spray woolwax inside nearly every frame I repair. A simple spray gun at 70-90 psi is more than enough to move the product. You do not have to heat it at all. Just keep it above 50 degrees and you will be fine. If you need to thin it before application use/mix with vegatable oil, I use the 2 1/2 gal product, best way to purchase. The biggest difference between FF and WW is the odor. WW is nearly odor free, FF has a lingering smell that takes a while to disapate (I don't use this product inside doors, hatches or interior quarter panels because of the smell), WW is thicker than FF, both are lanolin based, FF tends to wash off quicker, you can purchase and apply a "thicker" WW product for frame applications (Creep n Crawl), anything you apply is useless without proper prep work, you can use any oil solvent to coat the rust but it will not stop the rust. Rust is the oxidation of metal exposed to the natural elements, oxygen and water chemical reactions) that has to be nuetralized before it gets corrosive and eats through the metal that is exposed. POR15, Chassis Saver, Eastwood Encapsulate and all other similar products just trap the oxidation and corrosion. These products do not stop the chemical reaction from continuing.

These observations are from "hands-on" use and application. I do not work for WW, I am not affiliated in any way with WW, but I have over 3 years experience using this product and never had any issues with it. Did I mention that the prep work done prior to application will dictate the end result??? (Piss-poor prep equals piss-poor performance!)

I happen to agree with everything he says on the woolwax. Our shop sprays alot of it also

 

[Jack90210]

Take the time to clean out the internal frame assembly and crossmembers. Blow out and vacuum as much debris from the inside as possible. Use a low impact needle gun to clean the external frame rails, this will aid in knocking loose any internal corrosion build up as well as what is visible externally. Using a garden sprayer (if no air compressor), coat both internal and external with a rust kill solution, use safely and accordingly. Once dry and the oxidation and corrosion has been neutralized, spray a liberal amount of of Woolwax ( I use about 2 qts per internal frame rail and crossmember extensions). You can also use the Woolwax externally, or sand, prime and paint as you prefer.

The time you put in to prepping the frame will proportionately provide the expected results. Drop the boards, remove the wheels, exhaust, drive shafts, spare tire and bumper covers, at a minimum.

Kind of like taking care of your teeth… you only brush and floss the ones you want to keep forever!

This is the way. To do a thorough job requires component removal in order to access the frame as fully as possible. (I will say though that 2 qts is a LOT of FluidFilm (I use the bulk gun with the various hoses that allow internal frame access), unless you are talking about the disposable cans!)

The typical "worst spots" that I've seen include the frame just in front of the rear wheels, and the rear frame crossmember on the driver's side.

 

[delz05]

On the LX/LC, body and frame, I spray into every cavity that I can. Rocker panels, floorboard supports and crossmembers, rear quarter panels, radiator support, the frame obviously, I coat the entire floorboard, transmission tunnel, basically everything from the lower fire wall towards the rear of the vehicle. I remove both bumper covers, along with every removable piece under the vehicle…otherwise just wasting time putting a Band-Aid on a gunshot wound.

 

[Jim_Chow]

Just finished rust cleanup on the LX. I used a chemical rust remover, which works well if mostly surface rust. It especially worked well on the accumulator valve units (fins, fasteners). Next, I applied a primer for steel boats and zinc chromate on the cleaned fasteners, then John Deere Blitz Black tractor paint over everything. It’s a close match to the black on the chassis of my 23 GX.

 

[NeedaLX]

It's about that time of year. Need to start prepping my California LX for its first PA winter I found a company that does undercoating using fluid film and based on a a description of services, it sounds like a thorough job:

• All structural and suspension components fully coated. All inner and undercarriage panels treated. Body and frame plugs removed for inner frame and panel access. Extensive service focusing on hard to access areas.
• Complete extensive inner frame-panel service. All under carriage panels completely removed. Premium door/under hood package. Wheel, tail light, and complete wheel liner removal. HD heated product on high wash areas

Not a cheap service but it will be a good starting point and save me hours of rolling around under the vehicle. Without a lift I don't see how I could do as thorough of a job myself, without spending a lot of time. I can always touch up on the back end as needed

I still want to do some level of prep work before bringing it in (need to inquire exactly what they do for prep). My LX is rust free as a starting point, so no descaling needed. But I assume it is still best practice to clean the undercarriage/inside of the frame first

I'll pull the spare tire and probably drop the running boards before bring it in. Is there anything else I should prep ahead of time? Any 100 series specific quirks that a shop that sprays primarily American made trucks should be aware of?

 

[delz05]

I would actually go through the trouble of removing both front and rear bumper covers. Additionally, I would ask if Woolwax is available, as based on years of use, I have found it longer lasting… make sure they remove Wheels as well. Though I am certain that is part of their process. Ask them to coat the inner lower portion of the upper rear hatch and the inner lower portion of the lower rear hatch as well.

 

[hoothoot]

Agreed with the above on Woolwax. I was always a Fluid Film guy (which admittedly still works well), but Woolwax tends to be thicker and more durable.

 

[NeedaLX]

I would actually go through the trouble of removing both front and rear bumper covers. Additionally, I would ask if Woolwax is available, as based on years of use, I have found it longer lasting… make sure they remove Wheels as well. Though I am certain that is part of their process. Ask them to coat the inner lower portion of the upper rear hatch and the inner lower portion of the lower rear hatch as well.

Yeah, wheels and liners come off as part of it. I'll be sure to emphasize upper and lower hatch

Bumper covers don't come off as far as I know. But perhaps that is something better suited for me to do on the back end and touch up any area that is missed

I do wish they used Woolwax and will inquire. That is the only downside as I'd probably use WW if doing it myself

They do explicitly mention a "heavy duty heated product" on areas exposed to a lot of water/road spray. Will have to see exactly what that is