Rust on raw steel removal techniques - Help!

[LandCruiserPhil]

I need an education on rust removal techniques. Being from Arizona rust is normally not an issue but after a few years outside steel even rust in Arizona. With the high cost of steel I need to use what I have but now I need to get the rust off. The rust in not bad mostly surface some heavy with little pitting.

Rust experts school me on the fast and easy way to deal with rust.

 

[Ebag333]

Well, depends on how bad it is and how much work you want to put into it. Light rust can be removed with a flap disk or even coarse sand paper. Heavy rust or scaling, a wire wheel might be necessary.

If you got access (either the tools yourself or someone who can) a media blaster is the ultimate way to go. Messy, but quick and does an awesome job.

Sometimes you can find people with mobile media blasting setups.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Muratic acid and a water wash. Blow off any residual water then paint or weld ASAP.

 

[davegonz]

I usually use a 3M pad on my die grinder or a flap disc on my 4-1/2" electric grinder.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

How much material are we speaking of?

A small amount of steel just use a wire wheel or flap disc on an angle grinder then "paint over rust" (i.e. with Rustoleom, etc.)

If a large piece of steel then consider sand blasting and proper bottom coating and top coating.

Good luck!

Alan

I need an education on rust removal techniques. Being from Arizona rust is normally not an issue but after a few years outside steel even rust in Arizona. With the high cost of steel I need to use what I have but now I need to get the rust off. The rust in not bad mostly surface some heavy with little pitting.

Rust experts school me on the fast and easy way to deal with rust.

 

[erikgil]

I need an education on rust removal techniques. Being from Arizona rust is normally not an issue but after a few years outside steel even rust in Arizona. With the high cost of steel I need to use what I have but now I need to get the rust off. The rust in not bad mostly surface some heavy with little pitting.

Rust experts school me on the fast and easy way to deal with rust.

I got a new bumper a few years ago, never got time to prep it. It built up a fairly significant patina over that time. Recently I wire-wheeled, use rustoleum rust off stuff (gel) and quickly primed an painted it.

Thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/539243-fj62-bumper-painted-grille-blacked-out-finally.html -- There is a link there to before and after pics.

Prep is key. I'm hoping to high hell I did a good job.

 

[nat]

You talking flat stock, tubular stock? Not sure there is any good way to get rust out of the inside of tube.

 

[ednedesigns]

Check out Phosphoric Acid

I have used phosphoric acid to scrub away surface rust with good results. its great for situations where you don't want grinder or wire wheel marks. the phosphoric acid converts iron oxide to ferric phosphate that is fairly easy to scrub off.

 

[pb4ugo]

I somethimes use a 7" grinder & adapt a flexible backing disk & 30 or 80 grit sanding disc. It knocks the rust off w/minimal if any swirl marks.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks for all the post

I have used most all of the suggestion except the acid ones

I didn't know if there was something special that worked magic. Kinda like PB blaster never heard of it until mud. Not sure if its even available in Arizona

I picked up a Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel from the local Harbor Freight that worked pretty good in my multi step process.

So far my best system is the wire wheel cup, Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel, and finish with a flap disk

I can say I feel sorry for you guy that have a life with rust, IT SUCKS!

 

[Eric Winkworth]

phosphoric acid is the best bar none! Eats only rust then protect metal against rust!

Muric acid eats metal, stuff is sick stay away from it....

All other methods will remove material!

 

[Walton]

Sandblaster

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Phos x3. Buy it in gallon jugs from Lowes/Homey-Depot for little $. For rust abatement, use it full strength. For pretreating before top coating or rust prevention on clean steel mix it 1:3 with water, and don't rinse it off. The pitting will remain regardless of technique, save using a filler or aggressively grinding (the former not gonna happen on thin sheet)
Look on www.autobodysuperstore.com or Auto Body Repair Tools Shop, Auto Body Supplies, Automotive & Classic Car Restoration - Eastwood for pages and pages of advice.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phos x3. Buy it in gallon jugs from Lowes/Homey-Depot for little $. For rust abatement, use it full strength. For pretreating before top coating or rust prevention on clean steel mix it 1:3 with water, and don't rinse it off. The pitting will remain regardless of technique, save using a filler or aggressively grinding (the former not gonna happen on thin sheet)
Look on www.autobodysuperstore.com or Auto Body Repair Tools Shop, Auto Body Supplies, Automotive & Classic Car Restoration - Eastwood for pages and pages of advice.

OK OK I'll give a try...do I find in the paint department?

 

[Wile E Coyote]

^^^Yup, in Homey Depot, I find it along side the MEK, acetone, paint strippers, etc.
If you spray it from a spray bottle like I do, be extra cautious on windy days...it's damn easy to get a face full of mist.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

All you yanks have easy access to it, it's hard as heck to find over here... It's weird because you only need food grade stuff it's in coke and pepsi how bad can it be, lol... It barely even stings bare skin, I even had a bit in my eye and it flushed out no problem, didn't hurt anymore then getting dirt in your eye...

I can tell you everyone that suggested other methods has never used phosphoric acid... Blasting is faster and less work, but you need equipment and sand. You can do as good if not better of a job with the acid! Heavy rust will require a knotted wire wheel...

Here is a couple shots of the stuff working it's magic, I should have taken a 3rd picture the next day, but I forgot. There is a 3 hour window between pictures, it's +1C in the garage, doesn't seem to effect how the acid works... After all the rust was eaten, I threw the metal behind the shed because I wanted to see how long until it rusts, it's been a few weeks and none yet! The acid has become inert and what it leaves behind is protecting the metal!

By the next morning the bit of rust you see left on the metal was totally gone, and the metal looks slightly etched, if I didn't know better I would have thought someone blasted it in the middle of the night!

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I get KleenStrip's Prep and Etch in the gallon jug. While i have idea what the Molar is, the overspray stings bare skin pretty good at full strength.

Sent from a phone, ya dig?

 

[spressomon]

White vinegar does a good job too...it just takes a 24-hour soak.

 

[rusty_tlc]

phosphoric acid is the best bar none! Eats only rust then protect metal against rust!

Muric acid eats metal, stuff is sick stay away from it....

All other methods will remove material!

Thanks! I didn't know that about phosphoric acid. I've used muratic acid for years for a number of applications and usually have some on hand which is why I mentioned it. There was even an article in Toyota Trails about how to use it to free rusty fasteners.

 

[haryv]

I like the set it and forget it method. Muratic and phosphoric acid are probably the way to go if its cheap. Better if there are really hard to reach areas that power tools cannot reach.