Rust!! I might’ve made a mistake. (Thread) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
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Location
houston
Well, here we go. I’m brand new to the forum [this is my inaugural post] but I’m on my second 100 series. Happy to be here.
I don’t really want to tell the story because I’m still a little hurt — but ANYWAY — I landed a rather clean 01, 200k miles, for pretty cheap. Only caveat — it’s a northern car. Sooo…””tell ‘em what he’s woooonnnn!!” — you guessed it — Rust.

I’m not sure how bad it really is yet. And, honestly, I’m not sure how much I care just yet. So, I plan to update this thread with more pictures and play-by-play on what I learn along the way on what is sure to be a little bit of a project.

Open to your thoughts, banter, and help. If anyone knows a tech in the Houston area, or Texas, that specializes in this sort of repair/restoration, link me.

I look forward to connecting with you all. Cheers!!

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That’s not worth restoring….cut your losses and find a rust free one of you care about that so much. Too much work and $$ and the rust always comes back. One of my cars that’s been in our family since 2007 is in the same boat. Still runs and drives great but body is starting to rot, undercarriage looks like yours or worse. It’s always something with it. Had both quarters rust repaired years ago, fluid filmed it, etc….rust came back. Brakes lines are pretty shot, repaired them a few times but there’s always a new section that starts to go. I have too much time and money invested in it to just junk it, had about $3,500 tranny replacement done a few years ago, another $3k in suspension, then brakes, tires….cars worth like $1,000 in today’s market and I could give a rat’s ass about the rust at this point. It’s not worth selling but also not worth “restoring”. There’s no restoring that kind of rust. It will never be like OEM again.
 
I know…I know. I feel that.
There’s a chance I might be stuck with the initial purchase now. So, I’m trying to explore options.
I may just turn around and sell it soon. It’s a bummer.
I really want to be convinced that it’s not that bad, that it can be restored/managed. But, now I just have this sick/tight feeling about it.
Plan is to have my local tech really give me the verdict and tell me where I’m at next week or so.
 
Run away.
 
Well, here we go. I’m brand new to the forum [this is my inaugural post] but I’m on my second 100 series. Happy to be here.
I don’t really want to tell the story because I’m still a little hurt — but ANYWAY — I landed a rather clean 01, 200k miles, for pretty cheap. Only caveat — it’s a northern car. Sooo…””tell ‘em what he’s woooonnnn!!” — you guessed it — Rust.

I’m not sure how bad it really is yet. And, honestly, I’m not sure how much I care just yet. So, I plan to update this thread with more pictures and play-by-play on what I learn along the way on what is sure to be a little bit of a project.

Open to your thoughts, banter, and help. If anyone knows a tech in the Houston area, or Texas, that specializes in this sort of repair/restoration, link me.

I look forward to connecting with you all. Cheers!!

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Been there, done that - sell asap, cut your losses and don’t look back. I can guarantee if you try to go down the route of fixing it, you will waste time, energy and money and still regret it big time.
 
Eh, my 4runner had worse. Panels and windshield were completely gone. Took a lot of work to repair, but I am handy and have a welder.

If you have the will, keep it. These aren't getting any easier to find. How is the interior?
 
I am sorry, I should have explained more. Been there - got a Montero is good running condition for cheap. I had always had my eyes on this iconic 4x4 (not the Sport) but older Pajero. Biggest mistake I ever made. Every job took 4x-5x longer because all the bolts were deeply rusted and seized. Shops charged me more money for each job because it just took them longer - to do the job and the truck would eat up space on the lift so they lose money.

The body is the more painful part because no respectable shop will even give you an estimate without starting the work because until they start scraping the paint off, they won't know how deep is the rust and how much they need to cut and weld. And then, you will pay for paint job on large sections of the truck - easily several thousands - and with no guarantee that all rust is gone. So you spend several thousands and then one fine morning, you notice a new bubble. Yep, that's why rust is compared to cancer.

If you still aren't convinced - here's an exercise. Look up yelp and find well rated body shops in your area. Drive it to a few shops and see what they say. My guess - no shop will give you a fixed estimate. Most will say something like - we can tell you once we start the job.

So again, I understand you are probably excited about your new purchase and you are desperately wishing for some magic/cheap fix to all the rust but there isn't one.
 
I am sorry, I should have explained more. Been there - got a Montero is good running condition for cheap. I had always had my eyes on this iconic 4x4 (not the Sport) but older Pajero. Biggest mistake I ever made. Every job took 4x-5x longer because all the bolts were deeply rusted and seized. Shops charged me more money for each job because it just took them longer - to do the job and the truck would eat up space on the lift so they lose money.

The body is the more painful part because no respectable shop will even give you an estimate without starting the work because until they start scraping the paint off, they won't know how deep is the rust and how much they need to cut and weld. And then, you will pay for paint job on large sections of the truck - easily several thousands - and with no guarantee that all rust is gone. So you spend several thousands and then one fine morning, you notice a new bubble. Yep, that's why rust is compared to cancer.

If you still aren't convinced - here's an exercise. Look up yelp and find well rated body shops in your area. Drive it to a few shops and see what they say. My guess - no shop will give you a fixed estimate. Most will say something like - we can tell you once we start the job.

So again, I understand you are probably excited about your new purchase and you are desperately wishing for some magic/cheap fix to all the rust but there isn't one.
Or just buy a decent welder, watch the YouTube to learn to weld, practice on scrap metal, and then fix the panels yourself.
 
Eh, my 4runner had worse. Panels and windshield were completely gone. Took a lot of work to repair, but I am handy and have a welder.

If you have the will, keep it. These aren't getting any easier to find. How is the interior?
The interior is pristine. But yeah -- i hear that. I just talked my buddy and we're kind of in agreement on a few things.
1. Just drive it. "You got it for cheap." If for some reason the floor falls out (not likely) -- weld it up! haha! But, it's not going to put you on the side of the road -- definitely not anytime soon.
2. If you want to do the whole undercarriage restoration to feel better and more at peace about it while you're riding around -- save up between now and next march and do it! It's a worth while thing to do in general. Not always necessary. BUT, you could do that.
3. Lastly, however; the last thing I want to do is have a car that is meant to be a pleasure-car become a pain-car. That point my pal made, I think, is super valid.

I've spoken to a few professionals around the country, showed them pics, and there is a bit of a split.
  • The hardcore cruiser-gang shops are like -- send it to me, I'll get you right. Not an issue.
  • While the hardcore classic car resto-shops are like -- no way! It's toast!
So, I think where I land is here: I'm not looking for the truck to be on auction house caliber level. you know? I have no plans to wheel this thing across the Mecum Auto Show floor.

Timing Belt/Water pump was just 10K miles ago. Electrical works. No leaks.
I just wanna drive the thing.
I'm definitely worried. BUT, I'm of the mind that for what I want to do with the truck, it might be ok.

It goes without saying that if I find some MAJOR structural issue then -- crap. But, the fact that it's coming from a major, reputable dealership, i feel like it gives me some cover if tomorrow, I happen to find a gaping hole in the underbody somewhere -- then, we can talk about a lemon. I don't think I'm anywhere near that. (knock-on-wood)
 
I am sorry, I should have explained more. Been there - got a Montero is good running condition for cheap. I had always had my eyes on this iconic 4x4 (not the Sport) but older Pajero. Biggest mistake I ever made. Every job took 4x-5x longer because all the bolts were deeply rusted and seized. Shops charged me more money for each job because it just took them longer - to do the job and the truck would eat up space on the lift so they lose money.

The body is the more painful part because no respectable shop will even give you an estimate without starting the work because until they start scraping the paint off, they won't know how deep is the rust and how much they need to cut and weld. And then, you will pay for paint job on large sections of the truck - easily several thousands - and with no guarantee that all rust is gone. So you spend several thousands and then one fine morning, you notice a new bubble. Yep, that's why rust is compared to cancer.

If you still aren't convinced - here's an exercise. Look up yelp and find well rated body shops in your area. Drive it to a few shops and see what they say. My guess - no shop will give you a fixed estimate. Most will say something like - we can tell you once we start the job.

So again, I understand you are probably excited about your new purchase and you are desperately wishing for some magic/cheap fix to all the rust but there isn't one.
word! Thanks for your reply. I'm definitely aware there isn't a cheap/easy fix. I'm not looking for that.
I think I'm just trying to wrap my head around what might be ahead of me. You know?
I addressed some of your thoughts in my reply above too if you want to check it out.
Thanks again!
 
word! Thanks for your reply. I'm definitely aware there isn't a cheap/easy fix. I'm not looking for that.
I think I'm just trying to wrap my head around what might be ahead of me. You know?
I addressed some of your thoughts in my reply above too if you want to check it out.
Thanks again!
Yep. Like I said, been there so definitely can relate to how you probably fee. You can drive it around as-is and see how it pans out. Maybe gas, oil changes and brakes are all that you will need :)
 
I'm not looking for the truck to be on auction house caliber level. you know? I have no plans to wheel this thing across the Mecum Auto Show floor.

Timing Belt/Water pump was just 10K miles ago. Electrical works. No leaks.
I just wanna drive the thing.
Then drive it!!! Just keep up on maintenance, understand that bolts and nuts will be seized and break, so replace as much stuff as you can with new as you go through the maintenance/service intervals.

The hardcore cruiser-gang shops are like -- send it to me, I'll get you right. Not an issue.
👆🏽 That should tell you something. Listen, this forum largely has rustphobia when it comes to 80, 100, and 200 series Cruisers. And there’s at least partially good reason for that: Plenty of those series vehicles that are rust-free are still available all over the US, but you’re going to pay a premium for them in today’s market, whereas it sounds like you got this one for pretty cheap

However, some folks around here have actually turned $hit to shineola when it comes to Cruisers. Some of us have taken absolute rust bucket 40s and 60s on which chunks of the body fall off while driving down the road and made them whole again. Some of us just say F it and keep driving them like that until one day your foot falls through the floorboard and you can see the road, then we cut out the rest of the floorboard, weld in a new sheet metal, and keep driving them as is.

I’ve taken a severely dilapidated 40 and completed a frame-off restoration, I have a rust-free 80 and 100, and I have a rusty 60 with holes in the quarter panels and tailgate that is a blast to drive as-is. I can assure you that nothing in your photos is catastrophic yet and all of it is fixable. But you can also just not fix the rusty stuff, keep everything religiously coated with fluid film, drive it like you stole it, and have just as much fun (if not more fun) in your Cruiser as everyone else. Hell, all of the parts that you’ve showed us rusty are still available either new from Toyota, from junkyards, or from part-outs here on MUD. Wack a tree with a rusty fender? Buy a rust-free used one from a part-out to replace it. Rear hatch starts pissing water into the cab? Buy a rust-free used one from a part-out to replace it. Ball joints and control arm bushings shot? Buy a new control arm from Toyota that already has ball joints and bushings pressed in. Rear crossmember rots away? Weld a non-rusty one in.

I’m of the mindset that it’s all about perspective and enjoyment. Drive it and then drive it some more. Like it? Fix stuff as you go. Don’t like it? Sell it or part it out.
 
Then drive it!!! Just keep up on maintenance, understand that bolts and nuts will be seized and break, so replace as much stuff as you can with new as you go through the maintenance/service intervals.


👆🏽 That should tell you something. Listen, this forum largely has rustphobia when it comes to 80, 100, and 200 series Cruisers. And there’s at least partially good reason for that: Plenty of those series vehicles that are rust-free are still available all over the US, but you’re going to pay a premium for them in today’s market, whereas it sounds like you got this one for pretty cheap

However, some folks around here have actually turned $hit to shineola when it comes to Cruisers. Some of us have taken absolute rust bucket 40s and 60s on which chunks of the body fall off while driving down the road and made them whole again. Some of us just say F it and keep driving them like that until one day your foot falls through the floorboard and you can see the road, then we cut out the rest of the floorboard, weld in a new sheet metal, and keep driving them as is.

I’ve taken a severely dilapidated 40 and completed a frame-off restoration, I have a rust-free 80 and 100, and I have a rusty 60 with holes in the quarter panels and tailgate that is a blast to drive as-is. I can assure you that nothing in your photos is catastrophic yet and all of it is fixable. But you can also just not fix the rusty stuff, keep everything religiously coated with fluid film, drive it like you stole it, and have just as much fun (if not more fun) in your Cruiser as everyone else. Hell, all of the parts that you’ve showed us rusty are still available either new from Toyota, from junkyards, or from part-outs here on MUD. Wack a tree with a rusty fender? Buy a rust-free used one from a part-out to replace it. Rear hatch starts pissing water into the cab? Buy a rust-free used one from a part-out to replace it. Ball joints and control arm bushings shot? Buy a new control arm from Toyota that already has ball joints and bushings pressed in. Rear crossmember rots away? Weld a non-rusty one in.

I’m of the mindset that it’s all about perspective and enjoyment. Drive it and then drive it some more. Like it? Fix stuff as you go. Don’t like it? Sell it or part it out.
EXACTLY.
We are of the same mind.

Thank you for taking the time to write this, man. 🤝🤝🤝
 
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Inspect the brake and fuel lines. All of them. That’s probably the first thing they will leave you dead in your tracks. It’s a big Toyota problem. I sold my last 2 Toyota’s because of this, just got sick of dicking around with them. And for me they always burst during subzero temps so you can imagine how fun it was laying on the driveway this time of year. My brother’s master tech at his Lexus dealer has an 80 and he’s also had to replace all or most of his brake lines. Again, it’s a widespread Toyota/Lexus issues. I’ve never seen anyone on this forum post of their frames cracking even though some crossmembers might be at a point of failure. It’s the brake/fuel lines and suspension stuff that will succumb to rust first.
 
Agree with most on here. Being in the northeast, I got a very good deal on a somewhat rusty LX with a corroded AHC line that slammed the suspension. My body is admittedly cleaner than yours, but my undercarriage is definitely worse. Would I have bought my truck as the basis for a big project build? No, likely not. It has, however, been a great daily, and for the price I got it for, I'm happy to drive it until it rusts out from under me. 4 years in and I think I've already gotten my money's worth out of it, so everything beyond that is bonus to me.

My truck is definitely a bit of a pain to work on due to rusty fasteners though. I now buy replacement fasteners for pretty much every job I do.

All that said, I settled because pretty much every rig within a few hundred miles of me looks like mine. I would think you could find a cleaner example in Texas.
 
EXACTLY.
We are of the same mind.

Thank you for taking the time to write this, man. 🤝🤝🤝
If you got it cheap, Drive it. Rust happens. Itll tick you off occasionally when you go to fix something and have to tap rusted bolts. Inevitable. But its very driveable.

I'm in houston as well. My trucks arent rusty, but I know how to work on things that are. Let me know if you need any help down the line. Be glad to.
 
The brake lines are still available from Toyota. If there is not structural rust that is enough to be a safety issue, just drive the truck. Sounds like rust aside it is in great shape.
 
If you got it cheap, Drive it. Rust happens. Itll tick you off occasionally when you go to fix something and have to tap rusted bolts. Inevitable. But its very driveable.

I'm in houston as well. My trucks arent rusty, but I know how to work on things that are. Let me know if you need any help down the line. Be glad to.
Thanks, Myco! I might take you up on that. 🍻🍻🍻
 

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