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- #21
Good call. I'll make sure! Thanks, man!
Rust!! I might’ve made a mistake. (Thread) (1 Viewer)
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I don’t think it’s a “widespread” Toyota/Lexus issue. All vehicles, if they spend much time in the rust belt and have steel brake and fuel lines, will spring leaks. The only lines that won’t have that problem are NiCopp, but steel remains the standard in the auto industry to my knowledge.
You also discount the effect of age. Any vehicle that’s 15-20 years old can spring leaks in fuel and brake lines, particularly where the lines go into fittings, regardless of rust. I replaced 2 hard brake lines and one hard fuel line on my 100 that started leaking and there wasn’t any rust at all. I’m in the process of making new NiCopp lines to replace all of the brake lines on my rust-free 80 because a few have started leaking due to age.
This guy is a Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician from the Chicago area and he is really sharp. This is a cool video about Land Cruisers. If you don't want to watch the whole thing skip to about 17:30 for the meat and potatoes.
It honestly doesn't look that bad to me. Mostly just scaley surface corrosion. I would take it to a decent body shop, get the stuff on the body fixed if that even bothers you. Then go over the underside with a wire wheel the best you can and them put some sort of undercoating on it. Then just drive it. It's true that some jobs may take longer but it all just depends on the job. If everything else is in good shape it wouldn't hurt to put some money into it to clean it up a bit. Just don't go overboard with it.
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- #25
I agree. 100 percent. That's my thought too -- get it to a steady-state and ride it! I'll keep this thread updated with progress too.
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
So you got a good deal and you care about rust... why even put yourself through it and start with this vehicle? Just resell it to someone who just wants something to drive for a while... it is not even in any world at all worth entertaining any discussion about paying someone to make this right. None. You'll be over $15k in a second. You live in Houston. There has to be better examples than that to start! Some rust is definitely fixable... but this has rust across virtually everything. That's hours and hours of grinding and painting... just to get you to a place that is not as good as other vehicles for sale within 200 miles from you. Just sell it back up to someone in the north that is used to rust and won't been too put off. Break even or make a few dollars and start over. Life is just too short to put yourself through that if you don't have to... if this was a car you had since new and you planned to keep forever, sure, dig in.... you just got it. Let is pass on to someone else!
SJWantsADiesel
GOLD Star
@insertcoin Forgot to say this sooner - whether you keep it or not, welcome to the group 
This is a really nice community. If you've been on other truck forums/groups/clubs, this group will give you a strong reason to stay with Land Cruisers
This is a really nice community. If you've been on other truck forums/groups/clubs, this group will give you a strong reason to stay with Land Cruisers
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- #29
Thanks, SJ! This is my 2nd Cruiser -- I should've joined sooner. haha! I've always read the forums, but I'm happy to be here as an actual member now. I'll do my best to contribute what I can positively. Thanks for the welcome! See you on the road.@insertcoin Forgot to say this sooner - whether you keep it or not, welcome to the group
Welcome to the forums. As for the rust and speaking from the experience of owning and working on three rusty 100 series, it's not that bad. Most of what can be said has been said already, but I'll cast a vote to just drive it as is and enjoy the hell out of it. Being from Michigan, anything I've ever owned has had rust on it, with the exception of a LS400 I bought while living in Florida. Guess what? They're all just cars. If you want an investment go buy bitcoin or something. Even buying a ferrari in 1970 would not have been a better investment than just playing the stock market for the same amount of time. The smile I have on my face on a back trail deep in the woods, or the occasional wave to a fellow cruiser on the road is enough to tell me I got my money's worth. My 1998 LC I got over 10 years ago was a little rusty then, and a lot more rusty now, but it has been the best vehicle I've ever owned, hands down. Hope this helps you to just enjoy instead of worrying about things going wrong, fixing issues that arise because of rust, and how good you will look cruising around the mall parking lot. Congrats on the good deal.Thanks, SJ! This is my 2nd Cruiser -- I should've joined sooner. haha! I've always read the forums, but I'm happy to be here as an actual member now. I'll do my best to contribute what I can positively. Thanks for the welcome! See you on the road.
IMHO, If you like the way it drives, and the brakes, fuel lines and frame are solid - then ignore the body rust and just drive it. Enjoy it for what it is. Chasing side wall, fender and tailgate rust is damn expensive and no fun. There are other cars out there.
And this is coming from an Eastern Canada fellow who lives in salt air, salt water and salt roads.....
Make sure it is safe and drive drive drive. Otherwise, sell soon and find something else that rocks your world.
And this is coming from an Eastern Canada fellow who lives in salt air, salt water and salt roads.....
Make sure it is safe and drive drive drive. Otherwise, sell soon and find something else that rocks your world.
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- #32
Thanks for the welcome! And, my sentiments exactly. I agree.
Maybe I'll take this 100 on the road and do a little cross-country road tour and come visit everyone on this thread! Haha!
Cheers man!
Drop me a line anytime you're near Ann Arbor or if you're going to the UP... Theres some nice trails up there that dead end in some beautiful places. My three 100s collectively have 800,000 miles on them and never left me stranded other than maybe a battery going bad. Basic maintenance and little stuff here and there non-rust related like alternator, pcv, tune up stuff, TB/WP, O2 sensors don't count. Most expensive problems I've had due to rust are replacing AHC with rusted lines with an ironman lift:
| Nitro Gas 2" Suspension Lift Kit Suited for Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 - Stage 2 (Rear Coil Springs: 2" Lift Heavy Load (440-880LBS Additional Payload)) | TOY050CKGS2 | 1 | $1,079.00 USD | $1,079.00 USD |
and two exhausts, one for the 1998 and one for the 2006:
| 1998 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.7L V8 | ||||||
BOSAL | KIT16583992 | Exhaust System Kit | $ 263.79 | - | 1 | $ 263.79 |
There is no reason to buy a clean, museum worthy, 100 just to drive. Rusty 100's make great daily drivers...and you know what, it stings less when you get a door ding or extreme pinstriping on the trail. You wont own an Instagram model, but you wont bat an eye at completing the TAT or any BDR.
Based on the rust, I bet the rear of the rocker panels are rotted out behind the side steps as well as the rear lower 1/4 panel sheet metal behind the rear bumper cover.
I'd drive it without hesitation after a thorough inspection.
Based on the rust, I bet the rear of the rocker panels are rotted out behind the side steps as well as the rear lower 1/4 panel sheet metal behind the rear bumper cover.
I'd drive it without hesitation after a thorough inspection.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
If you come to CO let me know and I’ll show you how much fun you can have in a real rust bucket. My 60’s wheel wells and lower quarter panels are lookin minty AF these days
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- #36
You got it!If you come to CO let me know and I’ll show you how much fun you can have in a real rust bucket. My 60’s wheel wells and lower quarter panels are lookin minty AF these days
View attachment 2942296
At some point, it stops being rust. And becomes places-where-metal-used-to-be.
Enjoy the ride.
Enjoy the ride.
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- #39
At some point, it stops being rust. And becomes places-where-metal-used-to-be.
Enjoy the ride.
You know what, gentlemen…I think you’re absolutely correct!!Those look like the same areas that need to be clearanced to fit 37s…
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- #40
