Rust Check AGAIN (1 Viewer)

[Corgi4x4]

Howdy y’all

I found a LC near me that needs little work and I wanted to know how bad the rust is! It needs a power steering pump, ac compressor and an exhaust system. Is it worth $4.5?

It’s triple locked with 180k miles

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Crusty. Move on.

 

[Nframe]

If you’re looking in PA that’s what you’re going to find.

 

[Corgi4x4]

If you’re looking in PA that’s what you’re going to find.

I’m looking everywhere. It just so happens that this example was nearby.

 

[manofthewoods]

Howdy y’all

I found a LC near me that needs little work and I wanted to know how bad the rust is! It needs a power steering pump, ac compressor and an exhaust system. Is it worth $4.5?

It’s triple locked with 180k miles

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Well...
A couple of thoughts...
First, mileage is irrelevant. All rubber (hoses, seals, Bushings, etc.) are old and on their way out.
Second, and most important, you need to honestly come up with what your use case is, i.e. what do you need/want. And, how much is it worth to you?

I know it's a long (and getting longer) wait to find a rust free vehicle, but it's SO worth it. If it was me...
Maybe if I found a non-locked rust free vehicle, I might get this one for parts. Especially if I could get it a bit cheaper.

That said my use case is to have a new (old) dependable beast which means I'd be spending at least 10 grand on a complete engine rebuild as well as new: alternator, PS pump, starter, brakes, Bushings, etc. Doing it all DIY. That 10 grand doesn't last long.
End result is IMO, better than a new bronco, or heaven forbid, a 250prado.

Happy trails

 

[mudgudgeon]

If ya gotta ask, the answer is always - PASS

 

[mudgudgeon]

Leave it for someone who

A: knows what they are in for
or
B: Is completely oblivious of what they are in for.




Full disclosure, have been the 'B' sucker way back in my teenage years, won't go there again.

 

[NeverFinis]

IMHO, you need to take photos of where rust is a known problem. I mean, you took multiple pictures of the front axle, and none of the rear.

Most of the 80 series rust occurs towards the back of the vehicle...

Last few rear frame crossmembers, especially the one inside the rear bumper.

Spare tire area.

Front and back of the rear axle

Lower sheet metal panels behind and in front of the rear wheels where the seat belt anchors.

Floor sheet metal to the left of the driver's brake pedal. It is under the foot rest but pull up the carpet to check.

Rocker panels.

Upper rear hatch

Rear Window frames.

In the end, you want a good frame, good sheet metal and two good axles.

 

[Kernal]

What model/year is that 80 Series?
How is the interior?
How is the paint (fading, peeling, any paint "bubbles")
Any hints that the head gasket has issues? (overheating, funky radiator fluid, has the owner used any head gasket or block sealer?)
A couple of tires appear underinflated, says something about the maintenance (or lack thereof).

We need a lot more photos to give a better opinion.
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Been discussed so many times, best route might be to ask the seller if you can have it inspected but take it first to body shop, preferably one with a lift,
and ask them to check it for rust but ask for an actual estimate for rust repairs and ask if it will pass a State Inspection.

Then take it to a mechanic who can take his time and ask him to put it up on a lift, ask him to look for rust and mechanical issues including tests of the cooling system/head gasket. Will cost some money but you'll have something to go on.

You cannot assume the AC system is just a compressor issue, very likely it's more than that ie: $1500+ for repairs.

Otherwise we're all just guessing.

The main thing to consider, you and the vehicle are in Pennsylvania, one of the worst areas in the US for rust IMO. So either deal with what's available locally
or find one in a dry/salt free state, then fly out, drive it back, but have the vehicle professionally rust proofed inside and out before the first winter in PA.

 

[duece71]

If you have to ask, you already know the answer. So sad that this example could have been avoided with a simple application of fluid film/woolwax etc…