Rust Bullet Product Review (2 Viewers)

[IDave]

[quote author=Jukelemon link=board=1;threadid=13644;start=msg126787#msg126787 date=1080225612]

So, how do I post?
[/quote]

When you go to write a response (from the reply button, not the mini space the the bottom of the thread's page) you will note the option to attach. You see a browse button on the right side: hit it, and browse your hard drive to find the picture you want to post. As it says, only jpg and gif, and you have to shrink your pics' resolution to fit. If you don't have the software to do that, you can email the photos to me (or anyone else you trust to do it) and we can shrink them for you and either send them back to you to post or just post them for you.

 

[Rust Bullet]

[quote author=Jukelemon link=board=1;threadid=13644;start=msg126787#msg126787 date=1080225612]

Rust Bullet, what actaully happens if the first coat is not covered with a second i.e. what if I missed a spot which is very likely considering the above mentioned challenge.
[/quote]

Not much, the 2nd coat just seals the first coat incase you missed any. Kind of a backup coat. ALso gives it a thicker coat. If covered within the time recommened the first coat isn't fully cured and the second coat will soak in to the first as a bonding coat.

BUT, it is so sweet when dried. BUT not on your hands and hair (ask me how I know).

Don't need to, I already know

 

[Rust Bullet]

[quote author=Sparky_Mark link=board=1;threadid=13644;start=msg126793#msg126793 date=1080225958]
question for Rustbullet: I see that there was a lot of testing done (as there should be). Was the coating applied to clean metal or rusted panels? I might have missed that looking through the info...
[/quote]

The tests were done on clean panels. At present I'm making a list of other products to test for the next testing phase. These tests will be done on both clean and seasoned ( rusted) metal panels to give a better results we hope.

 

[Jukelemon]

Dave: What resolution on the pics?

Thanks for the reply Bullet. Makes sense about the second coat.

 

[IDave]

OK, Dave, I am sure I am not the only one wondering. How did you find your way here? I appreciate your input, and I am sure the others do, too!

 

[IDave]

Jukelemon,
The resolution will depend on the size (inches) of the picture you download. Max file size is 90kb. On my camera, a "fine" resolution 4x6 picture file is about 900 kb. I like to make my pictures for this site about 8x6 to 7x9 inches. But I crop them to show the details I want in the best fashion, and then size them to fit most computer screens. I also aim to fit them so most of us aren't using the sliders to view the whole pic!

 

[85fj60]

I have another question for Dave the Rust Bullet guy, What about painting on existing paint, ie: underneath the car body etc, as a preventative measure?? My cruiser is pretty rust free and I want to keep it that way

 

[Rust Bullet]

[quote author=IDave link=board=1;threadid=13644;start=msg126987#msg126987 date=1080245678]
OK, Dave, I am sure I am not the only one wondering. How did you find your way here? I appreciate your input, and I am sure the others do, too!
[/quote]

I'm really kind of a car nut myself. I have 2 67 Camaros and 1 each 68/69 Camaros. I've also had a 65 Chevelle and various others cars in my past. The http://www.itkillsrust.com server is run my me. So, I get access to the server logs. I play close attention on where hits on the website come from to see how the marketing is paying off and what type we need to look at. I run promotions, ad campains and such and it gives me an idea of how it's working or where to spend cash advertising. By nature, when someone posts our webaddress such as was posted here, we get several hist from the site linking back to this forum. As I have time I like to offer help of answer questions to make sure users who choose to give us a try do it the right way and get the best results they can.

We use to be POR-15 dealers ourselves and moved to Rust Bullet after doing some very detailed research ourselves on the product. We even flew out to the head office and testing locations in Reno and Las Vagas and spent a week going over what was said about the product. We've been in busn for just over 6 years and we will NOT back a product that doesn't do as it says. On that note, lots of people compair it with POR-15 for results. I must say POR-15 is a great product, but it has it good points and it's bad points. Rust Bullet made every effort to solve the bad points and expand the good points and from the results and comments we've had it seems to have proven itself. POR-15 has several products and we still use several of them in our shop restoring our cars, But when it's time to put down a Rust Prevention coating, we stick with Rust Bullet now.

When visiting forums such as his, I know the time and effort that goes into running it, we have our own also for support. I try my best not to sound or come off as some marketing dweeb and sales droon, and just answer as many questions as I can for users. If you see me sway, just throw a wrench at me and I'll fall back in line

Thanks for the chance to answer the questions I can.

 

[Rust Bullet]

[quote author=85fj60 link=board=1;threadid=13644;start=msg127016#msg127016 date=1080248617]
I have another question for Dave the Rust Bullet guy, What about painting on existing paint, ie: underneath the car body etc, as a preventative measure?? My cruiser is pretty rust free and I want to keep it that way
[/quote]

Rust Bullet can be used as a topcoat with no problem. You'll have no problems with rust bullet bonding to the paint as long as it's clean, dry, and oil free. I might suggest scuffing the surface with a scotch bite "red" pad or 600-800 dry sandpaper if possable. This will give it something to bite to and help the bonding process. As most paint isn't a sealer it can breath, this gives Rust Bullet the ability to soak into the paint and down to the metal surface for some protection. It can't give as much protection as a bare metal surface as it isn't able to soak fully into the bores of the metal surface if it was a bare metal.. BUT, it will seal the surface and keep the air and moisture from getting to the metal surface and help prevent rust from starting. The best surface for Rust Bullet is a seasoned surface. By this I mean clean metal with a slight surface rust forming. I know it sounds bad but it's true. The rust will become part of the matrix of the coating and bonding is improved.

Hope this helps.

 

[dogboy]

brilliant -- you're a clever fellow Rust Bullet Dave and your feedback is very informative and helpful....

 

[IDave]

I really appreciate your expertise, and your input is great. It is particularly timely for me since things are starting to warm up here, and it may be only a short while before I can try out the rust bullet in my barn (instead of my basement). But for now, 3-5 inches of snow expected tonight......

 

[Jukelemon]

Here is a pic try.

 

[Jukelemon]

A better comparison of what the frame was like before and then coated with Bullet. The frame was structurally sound but had a good deal of surface rust...a perfect environment for Bullet according to their site.

 

[Sparky_Mark]

question for Rustbullet: I see that there was a lot of testing done (as there should be). Was the coating applied to clean metal or rusted panels? I might have missed that looking through the info...

Response:
The tests were done on clean panels. At present I'm making a list of other products to test for the next testing phase. These tests will be done on both clean and seasoned ( rusted) metal panels to give a better results we hope.

Another response....
The best surface for Rust Bullet is a seasoned surface. By this I mean clean metal with a slight surface rust forming. I know it sounds bad but it's true. The rust will become part of the matrix of the coating and bonding is improved.

I'm confused. All of the testing was done with clean panels. The advertized protection is contrary to the implied name of the product ??? . Working in a field where testing is paramount to decisions that put parts on hundreds of thousands of vehicles, this doesn't sound right. Excuse my skepticism, but I'm leary of aftermarket products and their advertized claims. I might suggest that Rust Bullet rerun their tests with a) "seasoned" panels - slightly rusted, then b) heavily oxidized and scaled test panels.

The target market of this forum generally deals with heavily scaled frames. Those who don't want to take the body off and sand blast the frame before they apply a coating would be looking for a product that "prevents the promotion of the rust" that they have. I'm confident that a professional refinish system (urethane with catalyst - 2 part system) from PPG, Sherwin Willliams, Sikkens, DuPont, etc. would probably outperform this aftermarket product on clean metal. I'd be interested in seeing the test results from that. I have used PPG CRE-904 (cost comparable).

I don't mean to be negative to the board, just want to advise everyone that there probably isn't a "miracle cure" that your looking for. However, I will look forward to the test results of the heavily scaled test panels. That would be valuable information for the board.

Just my opinion...

 

[Jukelemon]

Damn, I just lost my pic because it was too large AND as a result just lost a 10 page post (fealt like it).

Let me try to remember...

OK. These pics do not show a finished piece i.e. I have left areas because 1) I was only using a 3" brush at the time and 2) the rear wheel are not off yet. The ENTIRE rear frame from the firewall back will covered two to three times and then painted with three coats of flat black. This pic gives a little more detail. I do not think a pro resto would consider this the best option ONLY because it does not smooth out the diff housing and cross members as well as say sandblasting. But to me, it is just plain sweet. The rear bumper looks great (painted last night and will post pics tomorrow) and frame looks 50000% better. This is a great option for those doing what I would call a body off. The frame under the cowl/bib really looks great. The front bumper has some rust so I will do the small part of the frame that extends past the bib and the bumper but not under the cowl. I figure regardless of good the rear looks now, it WILL get dirty and match up to the front very soon after it is driven in the rain, mud etc... Rust protection is at the top of my list so if a small part of the frame is not painted/treated, I am ok with that.

 

[Jukelemon]

Sparky, Just read your comment. I agree that there is certainly a discrepancy in testing i.e. testing really showed how well the Bullet minimized rust spread when a portion is scratched. It is certainly illogical and un scientific to assume just because it slows/minimalizes rust spread it also changes the the chemical structire of rust when applied (read stops rust) and then forms a protective layer in that new metal (read consequence from the bonding to the rust). I am not familiar with the products you are talking about, but I believe (maybe because of misinformation or maybe because of assumption) that the true spirit of this product lies in that it stops rust by stopping the chemical composition that allows it to spread. Not sure how you would test that. You would need more than 500 hours to prove that. Any way, I guess my 40 can be the guinea pig. I certainly had enough rust to justify the test ( :

 

[85fj60]

Any distributors in the Seattle area??

 

[Jukelemon]

Buy online.

 

[BigSur]

[quote author=Jukelemon link=board=1;threadid=13644;start=msg127410#msg127410 date=1080315119]
Buy online.
[/quote]

I noticed you painted over the bolt and threads...how the heck are you going to get them off now? Do they recommend that?

 

[IDave]

How well does it stick to aluminum, Dave?