Rust Bullet or Rust converter product (like crc) (1 Viewer)

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So I cant use a product with acid on any layer touching the epoxy primer? And they do make 2k epoxy primers you just pull a plug on the bottom of the can and shake and you have a few hours to use it...

Etching primer has phosphoric acid in it and these products are only for direct to bare metal. The acid etches a fine profile in the metal and sticks without having to scuff the surface to promote adhesion. You can't put this stuff over rust converter type products.

Rust converters contain tannic acid which is nothing like the acid in self etch primers
 
Magnetman, what do you suggest I do to stop rust in the tub of my 40? I was going to wire wheel the whole tub. Then clean with whatever people are suggesting then not sure which way to go. I want to use ur monstaliner product, but also don't want to worry about rust. So some sort of rust inhibitor like like the chassis saver or do I get a rust converter then rust inhibitor and then monstaliner?
 
Magnetman, what do you suggest I do to stop rust in the tub of my 40? I was going to wire wheel the whole tub. Then clean with whatever people are suggesting then not sure which way to go. I want to use ur monstaliner product, but also don't want to worry about rust. So some sort of rust inhibitor like like the chassis saver or do I get a rust converter then rust inhibitor and then monstaliner?

Just scuff sand the old paint in the tub and scrape/wire brush any rust to remove the loose material. Then coat the rusted areas with CS. You don't have to CS the whole tub but you can. Monstaliner goes over the CS and scuff sanded old paint. If the rust is all over then it just pays to treat the whole thing with both products.
 
Is CS a rust converter as well? Do I not need to clean the

metal before I use CS with some sort of degreaser or acetone? Will CS adhere to clean metal or must it be scuffed up?

Thanks! Hey is there a mud discount? ;)
 
Did the paint that lifted/bubbled happen to be spray paint? If so, what brand was it?

After thinking about it, I don't think it was the paint that was under there, but some residue left over from grinding the multiple layers of paint and layer of carpet glue.
 
Just scuff sand the old paint in the tub and scrape/wire brush any rust to remove the loose material. Then coat the rusted areas with CS. You don't have to CS the whole tub but you can. Monstaliner goes over the CS and scuff sanded old paint. If the rust is all over then it just pays to treat the whole thing with both products.

So, it's OK to not totally grind off the factory paint? That's gonna save me some time. :)

I was planning to use the Monstaliner, but wanted the liner tinted gray. I have a Raptor Liner kit ready to go once I'm done cleaning and applying Chassis Saver to the bed.
 
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Is CS a rust converter as well? Do I not need to clean the

metal before I use CS with some sort of degreaser or acetone? Will CS adhere to clean metal or must it be scuffed up?

Thanks! Hey is there a mud discount? ;)

CS does not convert rust. It encapsulates the metal to prevent moisture and oxygen for creating more rust.

Rust is not a living thing. If you had a rusted piece of steel in your yard that continues to rust once you bring it in you house it stops rusting.

You just want to make sure there is no oil or grease. If the metal is smooth you must rough it up with coarse abrasive, 5 60 - 80 grit.

Existing rust is fine to paint over as long as you scrape/wire brush to remove the loose stuff.

I'm not a vendor here yet so is it appropriate to try and sell you guys? We do have an ongoing promo.
 
After thinking about it, I don't think it was the paint that was under there, but some residue left over from grinding the multiple layers of paint and layer of carpet glue.

Was likely the glue that was attacked by the solvent in Chassis Saver which by the way is a very mild solvent compared to automotive paints
 
So, it's OK to not totally grind off the factory paint? That's gonna save me some time. :)

I was planning to use the Monstaliner, but wanted the liner tinted gray. I have a Raptor Liner kit ready to go once I'm done cleaning and applying Chassis Saver to the bed.

ML colors will be out in 2-1/2 weeks.

Just know that for coating over CS if you wait more than 24 hours you want to scuff the surface first. For bedliner you can go 120 - 180 grit since sand scratches will not show through thicker liner.

So you have a tintable Raptor kit now.. do you have the color to add to it?
 
I haven't gotten the base color yet. Maybe next week or so.

Here's some pics of the before/after of the bed. I still need to finish up the wheel well arches.

Overall, I'm very impressed with the Chassis Saver. It dries to a smooth and hard surface.


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Why didn't you CS into the front floor boards? How far are into the front are yougoing raptor line the truck? When you did the CS did you cover the bolt holes?
 
The rust wasn't too bad up there and I had started the front before I got the Chassis Saver. The liner will go up to where the floor pans meet the firewall.
 
I see cool! How many coAts of CS did you use? How long between coats?
 
ML colors will be out in 2-1/2 weeks.

Just know that for coating over CS if you wait more than 24 hours you want to scuff the surface first. For bedliner you can go 120 - 180 grit since sand scratches will not show through thicker liner.

So you have a tintable Raptor kit now.. do you have the color to add to it?

I keep hearing the word etcher. Is CS an etcher and do I need to primer etch the paint at any point? Not sure what this would do. How long after I put down the Chassis Saver can I begin to put down the liner? I don' want to have to scuff the paint up like you are saying above.

Thank you!
 
I keep hearing the word etcher. Is CS an etcher and do I need to primer etch the paint at any point? Not sure what this would do. How long after I put down the Chassis Saver can I begin to put down the liner? I don' want to have to scuff the paint up like you are saying above.

Thank you!

"etcher" as in Self etching primers are only used on clean, smooth bare steel as a pre-treatment step to allow subsequent coatings to stick to the surface. Self etch will not stick to plastic, fiberglass, etc.

Chassis Saver does no etching and it must be applied only to tightly bound remaining rust or to clean steel that has been roughened in which case etching primer is not required.

Chassis Saver can be top coated within 4 to 6 hours after application. You want the surface to have little or no tackiness left when touched lightly with fingertips
 
I'm not a vendor here yet so is it appropriate to try and sell you guys? We do have an ongoing promo.

Don't stress about the Vendor star. Woody has never required it. That being said, it's best to keep sales stuff in the vendor section and leave tech here. :)

I haven't gotten the base color yet. Maybe next week or so.

Here's some pics of the before/after of the bed. I still need to finish up the wheel well arches.

Overall, I'm very impressed with the Chassis Saver. It dries to a smooth and hard surface.

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Wow, that looks GREAT!!!!

ML colors will be out in 2-1/2 weeks.

MM, will you guys be doing a flat tan color in the first set of colors?
 
Colors

This is stage 1 color release minus the red.

220734d1303568986-introducing-monstaliner-uv-permanent-diy-roll-bed-liner-monstashades-phase-1.jpg


Top: Safety red, Jeep Spice, WWII OD green, desert sand
Bot: White, Silver, Dark gray (matches a 98 jeep int color), light quartz (95 jeep int color)

None of these are going to be flat. Low to med sheen. We're almost ready for production. Colors will be supplied as a 3rd component to be added at time of use.

Don't mind the chunks in the spice/odg above. I dropped a cigarette in a can of base while under a high speed mixer
 
Upload it to You Tube, and use You tube tags [ youtube ] jLyjU5A_74Q [ /youtube ] (delete the spaces)

 

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