Rubber vs poly bushing (1 Viewer)

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I wish it would be something as straightforward as the tie rod ends or the knuckles. Unfortunately that low hanging fruit has already been picked. Knuckles and wheel bearings are fresh and tight, as are the tie rod ends.

The fact that the axle is shifting under the truck is a red flag. About a month ago I did a leg of the Georgia Traverse and had to stop because of how loose the truck felt. I ended up putting upwards of two full turns on several fasteners, including some of the u-joint nuts. I ordered new u-bolts and shackles from Kurt this afternoon. Should be able to get to it this weekend.
 
I wish it would be something as straightforward as the tie rod ends or the knuckles. Unfortunately that low hanging fruit has already been picked. Knuckles and wheel bearings are fresh and tight, as are the tie rod ends.

The fact that the axle is shifting under the truck is a red flag. About a month ago I did a leg of the Georgia Traverse and had to stop because of how loose the truck felt. I ended up putting upwards of two full turns on several fasteners, including some of the u-joint nuts. I ordered new u-bolts and shackles from Kurt this afternoon. Should be able to get to it this weekend.
Are they factory height shackles? Or are you running a lift?
 
One of the POs installed anti-inversions and aftermarket springs. I'm unsure of their specs, but altogether it looks to be in the 2-3" lift range.
 
Just got the 1st bout of full-on, unabashed death wobble... lovely. Got back to the office and noticed that the passenger side tire is sticking out of the wheel well farther than the driver side by half an inch or so.

Now, I realize that leaf springs dont hold center as well as track bars do, but, c'mon! This seems outside of what is reasonable. Or no?


You could get that much displacement from simply loosening every body mount and giving the body a good shove.
The assembly lines don't equip everyone with tape measures. The 80 series is worse as it's body mounts are more
compliant. The first set of sliders I made for an 80 were exact mirror images , right and left. Attached to the frame
one side stuck out from the body about 1/2" farther than the other side. I had to loosen all the bolts and shift the body.
There was still room to offset it more than the original 1/2". Now all my sliders have 1" of adjustment in and out
 
One of the POs installed anti-inversions and aftermarket springs. I'm unsure of their specs, but altogether it looks to be in the 2-3" lift range.

If you have aftermarket springs are you still running the rubber isolator that wraps the leaf pack at the u-bolts?
If yes , the spring pack has to be exactly the same height as the factory pack otherwise it gets removed.
If you try to use the isolator with a wrong pack height it will never tighten or stay tight
If it is removed a center bolt spacer needs to be used. The spring center pin is about 5/8" diameter but the hole
in the axle spring perch is 1". Spacer pic...call Kurt
ticcbs01.jpg
 
Interesting, and good to know. I'll take some measurements between the chassis and the axle to see where the issue lies.

I've got replacement U-bolts and shackles coming in today. I'll take a look at the springs to see what their state is while everything is disassembled.

Gotta love tinkering with another owner's "improvements."
 
Gotta eat a little crow. I replaced the tie rod ends <3k miles ago with 555s from Kurt and assumed they were still good. They aren't. Passenger is shot, driver isnt much better. Working with Bryce to get them replaced now.
 
Gotta eat a little crow. I replaced the tie rod ends <3k miles ago with 555s from Kurt and assumed they were still good. They aren't. Passenger is shot, driver isnt much better. Working with Bryce to get them replaced now.
At least you're getting stuff fixed. Hopefully that at least helps with the wobble.
 
Gotta eat a little crow. I replaced the tie rod ends <3k miles ago with 555s from Kurt and assumed they were still good. They aren't. Passenger is shot, driver isnt much better. Working with Bryce to get them replaced now.
Hopefully that sorts you out. Steering components are one of the big go-to's in the Jeep world with death wobble.
 
For sure. I've fought it for years off and on with a second gen dodge.

Cruiser Outfitters made it right. I can't talk those guys up enough.
 
I just finished replacing all my shackles, pins and bushings in my 62. Stock size greasable and rubber. Ordered all the parts from Kurt at Cruiser outfitters. Came from Utah to SC in 2 days!! Well packaged and two free stickers. Teardown wasn't too bad. Working on a lift, using adjustable stands to raise and lower the axles to remove/install bushings. I removed all the bushings one spring at a time. Placing the pins and shackles back into place to hold things together as I went to the other side. I had trouble getting one pin out and had to cut it. I used a sawzall to bushings in quarters then knocked them out. I had to remove the exhaust hangers, and the front shocks and swaybar links to get room. I removed all the bushings one night and replaced them two other nights. Probably 4-5 hours total. Noticeable difference in ride. Well worth it and great service from @cruiseroutfit

20180916_134419.jpg
 
Good deal! My shackles and pins will be in today. I wish I had your shop lift... are you still on your stock springs? I forget if you had them swapped.
 
Kept the stock springs. I really wasnt interested in a lift kit. A lift is by far the single best tool I have ever purchased. I turn wrenches for fun and mental therapy, This wouldnt be fun laying on my back!

My only complaint with Kurt is the label takes time to remove off of the shackles!
 
Yeah laying on MY back doing this work on the driveway in 90 degree heat makes me need some mental therapy! :cry: Or at least therapy for the gut...:beer:

I was wanting a lift kit but I'm not second guessing that option. My springs aren't nearly as bad as I thought and I have plenty of clearance for the way I use this truck. I have other issues to deal with anyway. Maybe I'll toss an add-a-leaf on the rears and run with it as is.
 
I’m thinking to just try adding a Leaf to my stock springs and doing new bushings, bolts, and links.
 
I’m thinking to just try adding a Leaf to my stock springs and doing new bushings, bolts, and links.
Exactly. The only reason I wanted a lift was for 33s... but why do I need 33s? I'm not rock crawling and most anything I am going to come across on a trail can be driven over in a Subaru Outback. If I can't go over it, I'll move it or go around it. I'd rather spend the cash on a 5 speed. Or a paint job.
 
33x10.5 fit fine on stock, that is what I run.
No joke?! Wow I must have misread about that... good to note! What gear set are you running in your axles? How's it handle? I won't ask about gas mileage. That's like the difference between 500-1500 degrees... it doesn't really matter. Either way it's gonna kill you.
 

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