RTH: E-Brake Cable Replacement (4 Viewers)

[StaticTorque]

There's a whole bunch of things that can go wrong, it's a fiddly little system. If it hasn't seen any major attention though, it's most likely to be a combination of things rather than just one issue. The good news is, the parts are cheap, and still all available last I checked. At the bare minimum, I'd suggest anyone should replace the parking brake cable, the shoes, the rubber boots, and all the springs. In the process, fully disassemble everything, clean it all thoroughly, and put it back together with good quality lube. Since the parts were so cheap I just ended up ordering all new hardware for mine, so new bolts, cups, washers, etc. Basically everything from the lever down. If you're on a very restricted budget though, at a minimum I'd buy the cable and the shoes. Any original shoes have hardened and probably glazed, they need to be replaced if you want them to hold well. Any original cables will definitely be stretched, and once Toyota stops making them, you won't be able to find a replacement that isn't just as bad as your current one.

After all I have gone through with this damn ebrake stuff, this is true. It all is and it seems if its not perfect, it wont work how it's supposed to. You also posted some great info below too, great video to watch and help.

Is that the only or most likely issue for parking brake? My rear disc brakes are adjusted just before they start rubbing constantly and my E-brake is s***. I was thinking the cable on the axle? But I honestly haven’t done any digging into this situation but it’s becoming more frustrating and I want to be able to use it

I am no expert but if you've done everything you can with adjusting the shoes and bell cranks and everything, that would be my guess. I had done everything I could with adjusting, and nothing ever changed my e brake lever pull.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Oh, and for anyone who's considering this, the video from @OTRAMM is required viewing:

Very thorough and will give you an idea what you're in for. You don't have to take the hubs off if you don't want to. I didn't on mine. I did replace the rotors and did a refresh of the disc brakes while I was in there though. If you've got an early model 80 series (before 93 I believe) there's a different setup with drum brakes in the rear. I'm only familiar with the disc brake arrangement.

I appreciate the input. I was able to get to my lever adjustment and it’s maxed out. Pretty sure I need a new cable the. Damn lol. Nothing is ever easy or doesn’t require money on these trucks. But I love them. Mine is 96 triple locked. Just mentioning because you had brought up the earlier years

 

[StaticTorque]

I appreciate the input. I was able to get to my lever adjustment and it’s maxed out. Pretty sure I need a new cable the. Damn lol. Nothing is ever easy or doesn’t require money on these trucks. But I love them. Mine is 96 triple locked. Just mentioning because you had brought up the earlier years

After I adjusted on the rear axle, and maxed out the brake lever adjustment, replacing the cable was my last resort. Yes they do cost money lol and lots of time. Mines been on jackstands for a month now. You can still get the cables, think I paid $80-$90 for mine. And it’s REALLY not hard to replace the cable. I’m going to finish mine up this weekend, then I will post my “how to” guid on doing it. It’s really not hard at all. I also have a triple locked 97, I have an Lx.

 

[FlyinFaded]

After I adjusted on the rear axle, and maxed out the brake lever adjustment, replacing the cable was my last resort. Yes they do cost money lol and lots of time. Mines been on jackstands for a month now. You can still get the cables, think I paid $80-$90 for mine. And it’s REALLY not hard to replace the cable. I’m going to finish mine up this weekend, then I will post my “how to” guid on doing it. It’s really not hard at all. I also have a triple locked 97, I have an Lx.

Drop the tank? I’d be interested in the how to

 

[StaticTorque]

Drop the tank? I’d be interested in the how to

I didn't drop the tank. MUCH easier to not drop it, then to actually drop it. From what I've read there's one bolt that usually breaks off when taking the straps off for the tank. You have to lift the body off the frame a little bit to get the broken piece out. I don't have a lift or anything like that so I didn't want to do that. Luckily I was able to replace it without dropping the tank.

 

[051009]

I didn't drop the tank. MUCH easier to not drop it, then to actually drop it. From what I've read there's one bolt that usually breaks off when taking the straps off for the tank. You have to lift the body off the frame a little bit to get the broken piece out. I don't have a lift or anything like that so I didn't want to do that. Luckily I was able to replace it without dropping the tank.

Did you manage to finish this project? Interested in what you did and also if replacing the cable made a difference.

 

[ridgelinescouter]

Greetings, @StaticTorque how did your cable replacement turn out, and did you do a write up for the job? I will be replacing my cable soon. I would benefit from your experience. BTW, I'm also in the Portland area (near Sandy).

 

[StaticTorque]

Greetings, @StaticTorque how did your cable replacement turn out, and did you do a write up for the job? I will be replacing my cable soon. I would benefit from your experience. BTW, I'm also in the Portland area (near Sandy).

It was super easy. I never did a write up because I didn’t take the appropriate pictures while doing it. And my ebrake is still sloppy. So I’m certain my cable wasn’t stretched. Just need to figure out the adjustment. If you need a hand just shoot me a message on here! I didn’t drop the fuel tank or anything. Are you replacing the shoes, springs, and internal parts of the ebrake?

 

[ridgelinescouter]

@StaticTorque, I had gone with just aftermarket shoes, I didn't buy the entire kit. I did all the adjustments noted in the FSM and on other threads here. I have too much play at the bell crank, even with the stopper almost all the way in. I tightened the cable at the brake lever. I can hold the vehicle in drive up to 1200 RPM, with the brake lever pulled hard. I should pass inspection at Cruse Moab in two weeks. When I get back, I want to do the entire service, with a new cable, to make it better.

 

[COYS]

Not to dissuade anyone, but I bought every new T part still available along with a new brake cable and can testify this system straight up sucks. It holds better than my og setup, but still falls well short of what I originally hoped for which is a nice hold on an incline, 7-8 clicks per FSM.

I'll come back to it when I have time. Good luck to you. I hope you achieve better results than I.

 

[StaticTorque]

@StaticTorque, I had gone with just aftermarket shoes, I didn't buy the entire kit. I did all the adjustments noted in the FSM and on other threads here. I have too much play at the bell crank, even with the stopper almost all the way in. I tightened the cable at the brake lever. I can hold the vehicle in drive up to 1200 RPM, with the brake lever pulled hard. I should pass inspection at Cruse Moab in two weeks. When I get back, I want to do the entire service, with a new cable, to make it better.

I went with the RockAuto kit for replacing everything. I did all the adjustments I could and told myself “The e brake must be stretched and won’t hold.” So I replaced it with a OEM one, and it made it the tiniest difference. But my e brake still pulls all the way to the top basically, doesn’t hold it.

Not to dissuade anyone, but I bought every new T part still available along with a new brake cable and can testify this system straight up sucks. It holds better than my og setup, but still falls well short of what I originally hoped for which is a nice hold on an incline, 7-8 clicks per FSM.

I'll come back to it when I have time. Good luck to you. I hope you achieve better results than I.

It does suck. I’ve spent MANY weekends messing with it and was never able to get it close to 7-8 clicks. Still isn’t where it should be.

 

[DivByZero]

I don't know what the difference here is, but with my rebuilt setup, I have exactly 7 clicks on the lever and it holds great.

 

[DivByZero]

Out of curiosity, what rotors are you guys running with? I put brand new OEM rotors on the rear when I did my e-brake. Since the shoes are gripping on the rotors, maybe that's a factor that's being overlooked here.

 

[DivByZero]

Been thinking more about this. So, I remember I didn't follow the FSM for adjustment. What I did to adjust the lever was to look at the back of the brake assembly, where the cable attaches. I tightened up the screw on the lever until the cable was pulling the bump stops up, then went back and forth backing off the screw on the lever until the bump stops were just resting. That gave me 7 clicks at the lever. Then it's a matter of making the shoes grip properly. For that, I actually pulled the rear axles, so I could detect precisely when friction started being applied to the rotor while spinning the hub. I tightened the adjustment screw through the rotor until I felt it start to bite, then backed off a single tooth. You can't be as precise with the axles still installed. When the axles are pulled, it's a good time to check your rear wheel bearings for play too.

If that's not working for you, something is up. My 80 will hold on a steep slope in neutral after my rebuild, and it's been maybe 3 years now. That's with genuine new rotors, shoes, and everything else.

 

[COYS]

Been thinking more about this. So, I remember I didn't follow the FSM for adjustment. What I did to adjust the lever was to look at the back of the brake assembly, where the cable attaches. I tightened up the screw on the lever until the cable was pulling the bump stops up, then went back and forth backing off the screw on the lever until the bump stops were just resting. That gave me 7 clicks at the lever. Then it's a matter of making the shoes grip properly. For that, I actually pulled the rear axles, so I could detect precisely when friction started being applied to the rotor while spinning the hub. I tightened the adjustment screw through the rotor until I felt it start to bite, then backed off a single tooth. You can't be as precise with the axles still installed. When the axles are pulled, it's a good time to check your rear wheel bearings for play too.

If that's not working for you, something is up. My 80 will hold on a steep slope in neutral after my rebuild, and it's been maybe 3 years now. That's with genuine new rotors, shoes, and everything else.

Can you swing by LA to work on mine? Korean BBQ on me.

 

[DivByZero]

Can you swing by LA to work on mine? Korean BBQ on me.

12,000km and a $2200 return flight from Sydney is a long way to go for some Korean BBQ. I could actually travel to South Korea for less money and in less time.

 

[StaticTorque]

Been thinking more about this. So, I remember I didn't follow the FSM for adjustment. What I did to adjust the lever was to look at the back of the brake assembly, where the cable attaches. I tightened up the screw on the lever until the cable was pulling the bump stops up, then went back and forth backing off the screw on the lever until the bump stops were just resting. That gave me 7 clicks at the lever. Then it's a matter of making the shoes grip properly. For that, I actually pulled the rear axles, so I could detect precisely when friction started being applied to the rotor while spinning the hub. I tightened the adjustment screw through the rotor until I felt it start to bite, then backed off a single tooth. You can't be as precise with the axles still installed. When the axles are pulled, it's a good time to check your rear wheel bearings for play too.

If that's not working for you, something is up. My 80 will hold on a steep slope in neutral after my rebuild, and it's been maybe 3 years now. That's with genuine new rotors, shoes, and everything else.

Yeah… I’m not sure about pulling the whole axles for that. But it’s something to keep in mind for sure. Unless I have other reasons to pull the axle then I can follow that guide.

 

[crtx]

I didn't drop the tank. MUCH easier to not drop it, then to actually drop it.

Completely agree. No need to drop the Fuel tank.

I just changed out my E brake cable to match the full float rear axle I swapped in. 1991. 3FE. LHD USA spec truck

For anyone about to do this project- I would highly recommend power washing up and around the fuel tank to clear any debris from on top of it. The new cable is easy to snake over the tank if you run a "pull wire" from he front. Once you have control of "pull wire", tape the new E brake cable to it, and pull it through to the front of the tank. Straight forward project. Probably took 1.5 hours.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I am currently going to replace my e brake cable because it is stretched. I couldn’t find any threads about replacing it, and nothing in the FSM. Just how to adjust the Lever pull. How do I disconnect the cable from the lever in the cab? I am currently working on dropping the tank to be able to replace it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

2 pages and 38 posts and I don't think I saw a genuine response to the OP's question. I have the same problem. I am replacing the cable as part of a full PM on the E-Brake system but I can not figure out how to remove the old cable from the hand brake lever in the cab. There is a metal tab that prevents the cable from slipping out of the guide. I know someone said to just bend it up and bend it back down when the new cable is installed but I am struggling to accept that Mr T designed it like that. Nothing in the FSM that I can see but I am sure that friggin' tab will break as soon as I touch it. Is bending that tab the only solution?

 

[StaticTorque]

2 pages and 38 posts and I don't think I saw a genuine response to the OP's question. I have the same problem. I am replacing the cable as part of a full PM on the E-Brake system but I can not figure out how to remove the old cable from the hand brake lever in the cab. There is a metal tab that prevents the cable from slipping out of the guide. I know someone said to just bend it up and bend it back down when the new cable is installed but I am struggling to accept that Mr T designed it like that. Nothing in the FSM that I can see but I am sure that friggin' tab will break as soon as I touch it. Is bending that tab the only solution?

That’s what I ended up doing, just bending the tab and pulling the old one out. Put new one in and then bent the tab back to hold it.