RTH: car no crank.

[bmw635]

Ran errand, came out in 5 min to start and it goes $&$/( small sound) but no crank, no click.

Checked EFI fuse, starter fuse, starter relay and all is good. Battery is good as I have fan and headlight on and gauge looks normal when turning key with no power draw . It doesn't have immobilizer sympton. No click on starter solonoid. Anything else to check on this 2001? Thx

 

[txnight]

If the starter relay is good I would suspect the starter contracts have gone bad.

 

[bmw635]

There was no prior symptom of bad starter, always start 1st time. Solonoid always click regardless starter turn over or not? Thx

 

[2001LC]

In park right? Try move through positions P to R to N to D then back to park smartly as they say.

Starter contacts don't always give noticeable warning. Try tapping solenoid with metal, like very long screwdriver. Tapping vibration will sometimes move contacts just enough to make a good connection. You should be able to reach starter thought intake port plumes on DS, like between last two ports or past last port plume.

Sounds like you've checked every thing else I can think of.

 

[bmw635]

Rolled the car and pop gears back n forth just in case if it's the neutral switch, P N to start and nothing.

Just popped the cover to tap starter with a 3ft long extension between intake runner and nothing. Left overnight hoping the cold will make metal contact but no luck.

Starter has red label so I assume it's original since I've read all the OE replacement has green sticker? Any other problem I can check before wasting 4 hrs to find out new starter didn't fix the problem? Thx.

Peter

 

[2001LC]

Based on your statements of relay, immobilize etc.. all good. I'm surprised the tap tap tap didn't work! I try tap tap tap a few more times harder & faster make sure not to tap on plastic of solenoid or you may crack it.

Do lights dim as you turn key to start, like power is being taxed! This would indicate (only indicate, not a sure test) current getting to starter and starter contacts bad. Any contact sound at all as key turned to start, even just a little click would also indicate this also!

They're may be a test to see if current getting to start someone knows??????? anyone????

One more thing, any sign of mice under intake, they love to eat wires?

 

[bmw635]

I had the light , fan on and watch the voltmeter to see if it moves indicating current flow but nothing seems as if the starter or solonoid didn't take any juice at all that's why I suspect it's upstream since I don't have the starter symptoms like everybody else.

Got the intake out in 1hr so not too bad. I'll reconnect battery later and tap starter again while waiting for delivery of a new Denso starter. Is there a cold weather/ high torque 2.2kw starter like the 80? Thx for chiming in.

Peter

 

[2001LC]

Your fast!

You can rebuild this 01 starter cheap and as good as Denso rebuild IMHO. It's a matter of time, as all parts are available.
Best starter for the money today?

 

[DirtDawg]

Have you checked for power at the starter connection while someone cranks the truck? That would answer real quick if it's upstream or the starter. Chase the power.

 

[2001LC]

Have you checked for power at the starter connection while someone cranks the truck? That would answer real quick if it's upstream or the starter. Chase the power.

Do you know of anyway to do this with intake manifold still on?

 

[DirtDawg]

Do you know of anyway to do this with intake manifold still on?

No, not unless you connect a temporary lead. I haven't done it on the 2UZ, but have used it on my Cummins, several GM LS engines, and a Nissan 5.7. For the engines with the starter underneath the manifold I simply just make sure all required connections are made for the engines to "crank".

 

[bmw635]

Read up on the starter replacement thread and look at what I had to pull so once I pickup the tools there was no stopping. Kudos to Mudders tips for me to do this in 1 hr.

Trying to figure out how to crank without spraying fuel all over. Is pulling EFI fuse and relay as I don't see a FP relay?

Otoh, I can wiggle this pipe so anything I can do to make sure it doesn't come out or leak?

 

[DirtDawg]

Read up on the starter replacement thread and look at what I had to pull so once I pickup the tools there was no stopping. Kudos to Mudders tips for me to do this in 1 hr.

Trying to figure out how to crank without spraying fuel all over. Is pulling EFI fuse and relay as I don't see a FP relay?

Otoh, I can wiggle this pipe so anything I can do to make sure it doesn't come out or leak?

View attachment 1449310

Pulling the EFI fuse should take care of the fuel. Or the fuel pump relay.

Hopefully @2001LC can chime in on the coolant tube. I think he's messed around back there more than I have.

 

[2001LC]

Pulling EFI fuse on 01 works for me.

Looks like you'll need a rear water bypass joint! The joint and two gasket ~$100. Your starter problem just may have saved your engine!

@DirtDawg
I used to have a tool for crank engine while under hood. It was a button with two wire that clip on. Easy with most engine to use. Not so with ours that I know of. Must be some spot to hook in?

 

[DirtDawg]

@DirtDawg
I used to have a tool for crank engine while under hood. It was a button with two wire that clip on. Easy with most engine to use. Not so with ours that I know of. Must be some spot to hook in?

Ah yes, a good 'ole momentary starter circuit. I've got one sitting on the shelf, but like you have not used it on the 100.

 

[2001LC]

If your heater hoses are swollen, may as well replace also and the Tee's.

 

[2001LC]

Really your so far along just rebuild that starter, it so easy. The two bolt holding starter in are a pain but not that bad. I like replacing intake gasket as well once intake off.

If your really into and have time, send out the fuel injector for cleaning and rebuilding while stuff apart.
When to replace fuel injectors

 

[2001LC]

Note make sure to drain down coolant a bit, from block. So it doesn't run into open intake head ports when you pull the water by pass joint (rear).

 

[2001LC]

If you find wire block brittle read this thread for parts & tips: Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

 

[bmw635]

Thanks for all the info, esp the waterbridge- gotta search for this. I guess the pipe is coming loose so only way is to replace the bridge with the pipe attached? Can i have a friend weld alum to this joint ?

Took the starter off easily- removed the bolt on driver side first with 3/8 drive 15mm deep socket that slide between the connectors on the trans without having to remove anything. You can remove the rest of the driverside bolt by hand before using 3/8 drive on pass side- easy peasy.I'll update this thread to the main "replace starter" thread since I got the instant death of the starter with no click/ crank on permanent death with no warning like the rest of other starters' death.

Took the starter to Auto Zone to test and it does nothing so confirmed it's dead. I could rebuild but buying a rebuilt Denso for $140 with no core charge so I'll rebuilt this to keep as trail spare. Just waiting for the new starter- supposed to be here today but tracking says tomorrow. Should take e 2 hrs max to get it back. Thanks to all those who chimed.

The heater hose are good (distorted pics makes it look swolen) and thanks to the thread on the plastic T, I replaced them right before it falls apart in my hand.