I rarely get stoked about 80 Series builds as they are often cosmetic and factory clones. I prefer Do It Yourself creative innovation and outside the box thinking. You Sir, have impressed me. Congrats, you win a biscuit. 
ROTW - clownmidget 1997 FZJ-80 40th
- Thread starter clownmidget
- Start date
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Hehehee...clownmidget said:
Lifting a vehicle is going to affect its handling. Most obviously, you're going to add height to the centre of gravity, which in turn is going to make the vehicle more prone to roll in corners. At the extreme, an already roll-happy SUV or truck will become even more likely to turn over in the event of an accident.
Similarly, just because you've lifted your truck, don't think you can instantly go off-road with it like a pro.
Lowering Kits
The opposite of lift kits - lowering kits. These are designed to (wait for it....) lower your car. Also at the other of the scale - lowering kits are almost exclusively used on cars, whereas lift kits are almost exclusively used on trucks and SUVs. (Having said that, the number of pimped-out low-rider trucks on the road does seem to be increasing by the day.) Lowering your car will similarly affect the handling, just like a lift kit. But again it's the opposite end of the spectrum - a lowered car will typically handle much better than factory suspension, and it will lower the centre of gravity, making it less likely to tip or roll in an accident.So what should we say? Wanna test drive my truck on 91 Freeway 110mph...hehehe....
Two words tight and rigid suspension... 
LX_TREME said:Hehehee...
The opposite of lift kits - lowering kits. These are designed to (wait for it....) lower your car. Also at the other of the scale - lowering kits are almost
`Course, if I had wanted tight handling, I would not have been driving an SUV in the first place. No matter how much you lower and tighten it up, it ain't never gonna handle like a fully independant sports car.
A truck is designed for trucklike driving, which in my mind does not include "tight" handling on the street. Obviously offroad prowess and onroad prowess are mutually exclusive.
Buy a BMW or something similar for the onroad stuff. Slam it, add the Konis and super thick sway bars, adjustable camber plates, chassis braces, forged three-piece wheels, etc.
For trucklike pursuits, buy a Cruiser.
I wonder how much suspension travel my SL has, maybe I can lift it and run 35" mud tires...
My $0.02,
- Thread starter
- #44
LX, what gives? If you are feeling insecure about your junk leave me out of it. I try to do the best I can with what I've got. I try to wheel this truck as it was built to. I try to use it for family expedition/adventure type trips as frequently as possible.
I thought the point that was brought up was "Does it handle noticeably worse than stock so that it feels as if it has been made unsafe?" All of the suspension mods I've made have been done so keeping in mind that I drive this truck over 20K miles a year and often with my wife, daughter and dog. So, given that it has Slee's 6" springs, which are stiffer than stock, I've tried to keep the handling up to snuff. The wheel base is a little over an inch over stock and the wheel width is 3" wider. The tires are 12.5" width too.
So since this has to be a Swiss Army knife type of vehicle, yes, it doesn't handle as well as your 80-series with mods made specifically to that end. Can yours hang with me in a straight away? Can it beat me 1/4 mile? Can it go on more than a dirt road? A 4+ trail? All things being equal, I don't regularly go weaving in and out of traffice like a loon. But the engine as it is tuned right now can be completely loaded with 4 adults and all their gear and go over the Grapevine doing in excess of 80 mph.
I thought the point that was brought up was "Does it handle noticeably worse than stock so that it feels as if it has been made unsafe?" All of the suspension mods I've made have been done so keeping in mind that I drive this truck over 20K miles a year and often with my wife, daughter and dog. So, given that it has Slee's 6" springs, which are stiffer than stock, I've tried to keep the handling up to snuff. The wheel base is a little over an inch over stock and the wheel width is 3" wider. The tires are 12.5" width too.
So since this has to be a Swiss Army knife type of vehicle, yes, it doesn't handle as well as your 80-series with mods made specifically to that end. Can yours hang with me in a straight away? Can it beat me 1/4 mile? Can it go on more than a dirt road? A 4+ trail? All things being equal, I don't regularly go weaving in and out of traffice like a loon. But the engine as it is tuned right now can be completely loaded with 4 adults and all their gear and go over the Grapevine doing in excess of 80 mph.
clownmidget said:
Ya, you tell em Mike!
Glad to hear you didn't leave good old Gussy out of the equation... Now if we could only find you a decent set of rubber for that beast.
-Matt
- Thread starter
- #47
More suspension stuff...
One thing that comes up with the added lift from the bigger springs is the the clearance between your steering connecting rod and the tops of your front control arms gets tighter. But you can't raise it too much either due to the driveshaft and swaybar. AMMO has gone to a heim joint setup that fixes it pretty nicely. I probably should have gone that route but I liked the idea of TRE's on a truck that sees a lot of miles on the road. I saw a sweet setup in the Hardcore section of 4x4Labs set up using GM 1-ton TRE's that have zircs and a 0.25" DOM tube. Luke had it to my door a day after ordering it since he was cutting and threading tubes when I called. I'm now waiting for my own tapered reamer (since no one in their right mind loans the out!) so I can install this bad boy. Top is a stock 80 TRE bottom is the new set up. Still not sure if I'll go with them in front with the draglink but mulling it over.
One thing that comes up with the added lift from the bigger springs is the the clearance between your steering connecting rod and the tops of your front control arms gets tighter. But you can't raise it too much either due to the driveshaft and swaybar. AMMO has gone to a heim joint setup that fixes it pretty nicely. I probably should have gone that route but I liked the idea of TRE's on a truck that sees a lot of miles on the road. I saw a sweet setup in the Hardcore section of 4x4Labs set up using GM 1-ton TRE's that have zircs and a 0.25" DOM tube. Luke had it to my door a day after ordering it since he was cutting and threading tubes when I called. I'm now waiting for my own tapered reamer (since no one in their right mind loans the out!) so I can install this bad boy. Top is a stock 80 TRE bottom is the new set up. Still not sure if I'll go with them in front with the draglink but mulling it over.
- Thread starter
- #48
AMMO said:
Well Matt, these are the 17" x 9" steels I have but I keep watering these 33's that are mounted on them hoping they'll grow to a set of 37's but no luck...
Scott, Yes just about everything was better in the old days except Cruisers. I waaaayy prefer having room for gear and passengers, plus ass whuppin' trail capability right out of the box. I really like what Clown's done here as well. Bravo.
Later,
DougM
Later,
DougM
LX_TREME said:Hehehee...
Lifting a vehicle is going to affect its handling. Most obviously, you're going to add height to the centre of gravity, which in turn is going to make the vehicle more prone to roll in corners. At the extreme, an already roll-happy SUV or truck will become even more likely to turn over in the event of an accident.
Similarly, just because you've lifted your truck, don't think you can instantly go off-road with it like a pro.
Lowering Kits
The opposite of lift kits - lowering kits. These are designed to (wait for it....) lower your car. Also at the other of the scale - lowering kits are almost exclusively used on cars, whereas lift kits are almost exclusively used on trucks and SUVs. (Having said that, the number of pimped-out low-rider trucks on the road does seem to be increasing by the day.) Lowering your car will similarly affect the handling, just like a lift kit. But again it's the opposite end of the spectrum - a lowered car will typically handle much better than factory suspension, and it will lower the centre of gravity, making it less likely to tip or roll in an accident.So what should we say? Wanna test drive my truck on 91 Freeway 110mph...hehehe....
LX,
Don't be angry. It's okay that you've spent at least double the money and all you got to show is a rice rocket that's probably not that much faster than Mike's rig, and limited to the smooth pavement
. Watch out for those pot holes, wouldn't want to bend a rim, or scratch the bumper. Personally if I wanted to go fast and have a real tight, low, and rigid suspension, I wouldn't be driving an 80 I'd be in a Bmw, my $0.50 hehe, 5 words: Go Big or Go Home
Sam
PKP80 said:LX,
5 words: Go Big or Go Home
Sam
5 words:
Concise and to the point.
Well put Sam.
Clown nice rig, great write up.
Really enjoyable and informative. You truly redefine thinking outside the box. You've given me a few idea's the wife is not gonna like but oh well. 
Nice work.. Just how much longer are the lower rear arms?
- Thread starter
- #53
Thanks for the positive reinforcement, I'm sure my wife will understand now...
RV80, the rear lower arms are approx. 0.5" longer than stock. Those along with Slee's adjustable upper rear control arms has the rear axle very well placed in my opinion and I have no driveline issues, and the rear driveshaft is the original one with original joints.
RV80, the rear lower arms are approx. 0.5" longer than stock. Those along with Slee's adjustable upper rear control arms has the rear axle very well placed in my opinion and I have no driveline issues, and the rear driveshaft is the original one with original joints.
- Thread starter
- #54
DougM, in the old days I was in OH!
But yeah, I love the Anza-Borrego area and actually did a large part of my dissertation on three species of lizards that ranged from Deep Canyon in Palm Desert all the way down to Baja Sur. I drove my 2nd FJ-40 with no radio and the stock 2F and 4-speed from Athens, OH to Mulege' and back. Talk about needing therapy!
But yeah, I love the Anza-Borrego area and actually did a large part of my dissertation on three species of lizards that ranged from Deep Canyon in Palm Desert all the way down to Baja Sur. I drove my 2nd FJ-40 with no radio and the stock 2F and 4-speed from Athens, OH to Mulege' and back. Talk about needing therapy!
clownmidget said:
Tell us something we didn't know already Mike...
-Matt
clownmidget said:
I have this same setup. I think if you just do the adjustable uppers, you end up moving the axle forward just a bit as you raise the chassis (axle rotates on the same length lower arm, effectively shortening the wheelbase). David's longer lower arms are just the ticket to cure this and keep the rear axle centered. Just took it through the Rubicon for the first time with the new 6" setup and it performed SUPERBLY! Trail was harder this year than last (actually, every year it just seems to get harder and harder) and yet I had WAY less trouble than last year (then I was on a 3.5-4" J-spring lift with 35" tires). And as a bonus, it drive so nice on road, almost as good as stock again! I hate to say it, but I may be about done messing around with my suspension!
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LX_TREME said:Hehehee...
Lifting a vehicle is going to affect its handling. Most obviously, you're going to add height to the centre of gravity, which in turn is going to make the vehicle more prone to roll in corners. At the extreme, an already roll-happy SUV or truck will become even more likely to turn over in the event of an accident.
Similarly, just because you've lifted your truck, don't think you can instantly go off-road with it like a pro.
Lowering Kits
The opposite of lift kits - lowering kits. These are designed to (wait for it....) lower your car. Also at the other of the scale - lowering kits are almost exclusively used on cars, whereas lift kits are almost exclusively used on trucks and SUVs. (Having said that, the number of pimped-out low-rider trucks on the road does seem to be increasing by the day.) Lowering your car will similarly affect the handling, just like a lift kit. But again it's the opposite end of the spectrum - a lowered car will typically handle much better than factory suspension, and it will lower the centre of gravity, making it less likely to tip or roll in an accident.So what should we say? Wanna test drive my truck on 91 Freeway 110mph...hehehe....
About the only thing you said the makes any engineering sense is, lowering the center of gravity improves handling, the rest is pure BS for the road. If you want to make all of your design compromises for "style" that's fine and your choice, but don't try to sell it as somehow superior, just enjoy it being how you want it! You remind me of a buddy that spent a fortune trying to turn a Lincoln Continental in to a dragster, then would whine and try to justify his design compromises when he was beat by yet another Pinto at the track!
If you want to debate your design superiority, please sign up for ROTW and I am sure that you will get plenty of debate.
- Thread starter
- #58
Kevin, if you're asking me for a full stuff photo, post #13 shows that XZL in there.
- Thread starter
- #59
Some updates
Here is the GPS external antenna mount on the snorkel head
Here is the GPS external antenna mount on the snorkel head
- Thread starter
- #60
Front sway bar "quick" disconnects
I got Slee's sway bar drops for the front and rear quite a while ago but have long since removed the rear swaybar and only put it back on when doing a long cross country trip on pavement. I will probably make the disconnects someone (sorry I'm forgetting) posted pics of where the rod is cut then tubed and using the same type of cage-pin I'm using up front.
The front is much, much more noticeable when it is not connected so I wanted to have "quick" or relatively quick disconnects. Previously I was just unbolting it from the axle and then zip tying the ends up to the frame where the mount is for the bumpstop (that we don't get).
The first thing that bothered me was that the mounts were so low on the axle it was really difficult to get to the bolts or a pin to pull. These mounts are 1"x1"x0.25" stock. An 8-mm bolt was welded in the bottom as a centering pin so it sits in the existing hole at the bottom of the stock mount. It can't be too long otherwise it will hit the top of the control arm bushing ring. That's why there's no nut on it too. The thought was that it needed to resist moving forward or backward. Then it was just 1"x0.25" flat stock welded on the sides of the square stock to replicate the mount higher. Simple cage-pins are used to hold it in place and can be pulled at the trailhead.
I still haven't got around to making the "receiving" end that I will mount on the frame. Once the control arm is free from the axle it can be rotated up to the frame and conveniently is very close to the tapped holes for the bumpstops.
I've had these on now for a few weeks, road, gravel, dirt, trails, etc. and no problems at all so far. Not a true QR but functionally close enough for me.
Thanks to Iverness for doing all the hard stuff - mainly thinking...
ok, that's a really bad pic I took in the parking lot. Will get a better one here in a sec.
I got Slee's sway bar drops for the front and rear quite a while ago but have long since removed the rear swaybar and only put it back on when doing a long cross country trip on pavement. I will probably make the disconnects someone (sorry I'm forgetting) posted pics of where the rod is cut then tubed and using the same type of cage-pin I'm using up front.
The front is much, much more noticeable when it is not connected so I wanted to have "quick" or relatively quick disconnects. Previously I was just unbolting it from the axle and then zip tying the ends up to the frame where the mount is for the bumpstop (that we don't get).
The first thing that bothered me was that the mounts were so low on the axle it was really difficult to get to the bolts or a pin to pull. These mounts are 1"x1"x0.25" stock. An 8-mm bolt was welded in the bottom as a centering pin so it sits in the existing hole at the bottom of the stock mount. It can't be too long otherwise it will hit the top of the control arm bushing ring. That's why there's no nut on it too. The thought was that it needed to resist moving forward or backward. Then it was just 1"x0.25" flat stock welded on the sides of the square stock to replicate the mount higher. Simple cage-pins are used to hold it in place and can be pulled at the trailhead.
I still haven't got around to making the "receiving" end that I will mount on the frame. Once the control arm is free from the axle it can be rotated up to the frame and conveniently is very close to the tapped holes for the bumpstops.
I've had these on now for a few weeks, road, gravel, dirt, trails, etc. and no problems at all so far. Not a true QR but functionally close enough for me.
Thanks to Iverness for doing all the hard stuff - mainly thinking...
ok, that's a really bad pic I took in the parking lot. Will get a better one here in a sec.
