ROTM- klinetime574 (2 Viewers)

[klinetime574]

It is normal minor wear and isn't worth worrying about. I would reuse the whole thing as is. If it bothers you, for another $250 you could get a new clutch and resurface the flywheel.

I'm going to clean the flywheel and pressure plate with brake cleaner, see how they look, and probably run them. I was just reading online and found an interesting diagnostic guide by Centerforce. Read Here

I don't have any hot spots, bends, missing pieces, etc. I appreciate your feedback sir.

 

[klinetime574]

Small victory today. After I returned the pilot bearing puller a few days ago I wandered aimlessly in O'Reilly's, well cause that's what I like to do. I found some grease zerks. I had broken off the one right near the exhaust on the rear shackle some time ago. 1/4" x 28 seemed familiar so I bought a pack. (Also read that in the "Definitive SUA Lift Thread)

Fast forward to tonight. Sure enough they fit in my OME anti-inversion shackles. I grabbed a flathead screwdriver and worked out the remainder of the broken one. Fixed.

New one on top. OME zerk on bottom.

Performance Tool W54240 1/4" x 28 grease fittings.

Somehow that spring stayed, just hanging there until I pulled it out today.

Another post coming shortly...

 

[klinetime574]

I also modified my 1984 bellhousing to fit the 5 speed. Just a little bit needs to come off so it can bolt up. I tried to match the look of the other cut-outs but I got to a happy spot and called it quits.

In this photo you can see where it's not going to fit. I marked in the right spots, but couldn't get a perfect hold.

The front bearing retainer of the 5 speed.

Where I called it good.

I also took off the 5th gear extension housing and put some Toyota FIPG between it and the transmission. Thanks for that suggestion @orangefj45

I just have a pic of the extension off. Took me a second to locate the spring and lock ball. They sit behind a 6mm Allen head screw on the side of the extension housing.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Great work Kline.

J

 

[DickM]

Kline, you are probably all over this issue, but my 84 had a hole in the transfercase in a vey unusual location that when mated to the H55f allowed oil to migrate between the tranny and transfer. Such hole was not supposed to exist in 84, and was not located even close to where the post 85 holes are. I missed it.

Find it, tap it and plug it while the TC is torn apart.

Not doing so leads to some severe backtracking later when you can't get the tranny to stop taking oil after you have it installed in the truck.

 

[klinetime574]

Kline, you are probably all over this issue, but my 84 had a hole in the transfercase in a vey unusual location that when mated to the H55f allowed oil to migrate between the tranny and transfer. Such hole was not supposed to exist in 84, and was not located even close to where the post 85 holes are. I missed it.

Find it, tap it and plug it while the TC is torn apart.

Not doing so leads to some severe backtracking later when you can't get the tranny to stop taking oil after you have it installed in the truck.

I'll be sure to inspect and make sure I don't make a stupid mistake. Thanks @DickM

I still need to find a 7/16" x 18(threads per inch) tap for the 1/4" NPT street elbow for the breather extension on the transfer case. O'Reilly's had a 16 and a 20, but not an 18.

Edit: Lowe's had the tap, just found it online and ordered for store pick-up tonight #winning

 

[klinetime574]

Coming home to parts = Christmas

Aisin CMT-012 Clutch Master Cylinder

Aisin CRT-019 Clutch Slave Cylinder

 

[robustbambi]

looking great! I'm jelly haha

 

[klinetime574]

I have been working on this. Worked all night Saturday. And until 3am last night.

Finally got the oil pan on. Had to repaint the repaint because the paint must have been bad and I didn't notice. So that slowed me down a little bit.

I have lots of pics on my digital camera but probably won't have time for that tonight. Gotta start putting the transfercase back together with new bearings, etc.

This must have been Sunday night:

Last nights progress

PS- if you don't own an LED headlamp you need to get one for working on the truck at night.

Stay thirsty my friends.

 

[Output Shaft]

Not sure what that red dust is

Rust

You could probably get another 75K out of that clutch and a new one will go for 100K.

True... (or over 200K). The disc will typically last longer than the weakest link..... The Pilot Bearing. Once the pilot bearing goes......say bye bye to the input shaft.

I'm going to clean the flywheel and pressure plate with brake cleaner, see how they look, and probably run them.

But what sort of thoughts will go through your mind when you put it all back together with the old parts.... only to find out you have clutch judder on take off?

 

[klinetime574]

But what sort of thoughts will go through your mind when you put it all back together with the old parts.... only to find out you have clutch judder on take off?

Not sure what I'll be thinking then. But I have already replaced the pilot bearing so that's good.

 

[klinetime574]

Just a few more things to button up on this tonight. Like replacing the bolt I snapped... Anyone know the size off hand? I'm dumbfounded it didn't trash the threads in the case. I should be able to spin it out. 14mm head on those. M10?

Also didn't realize I won't be able to run my driveshaft loop. A few interesting differences on my old trans and this one. That side of the trans looks empty now!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

14mm JIS means M12. Which bolt was it?

 

[klinetime574]

14mm JIS means M12. Which bolt was it?

Underside of the t-case in that photo. Just one of the many that join that halves together. I would get the bolt size wrong. Sigh. It does have a fairly tight thread pitch. I should have measured it last night, but it was late (close to 3am). Looking to get specs so I can pick one up on the way home from work.

 

[cruisermatt]

14mm JIS means M12. Which bolt was it?

12mm head = 8mm bolt
14mm head = 10mm bolt
17mm head = 12mm bolt

This is JIS, if he goes to the hardware store a 10 mm bolt will have a 15mm head. I'd just order the bolt from Beno, it's probably just a medium strength (2-dashes).

 

[Slow Left]

From "2F Engine" FSM:

 

[klinetime574]

Just looked up on ToyoDIY

I think this is the bolt I need.

91651-61040 --> 6 on top, 10mm bolt, 40mm long

Doesn't make sense though. These bolts are supposed to be torqued to 40 ft/lbs. The range chart specs 22-32 for a 10mm bolt with 1.25 thread pitch.

I just had to break something didn't I

 

[Output Shaft]

Ahhh yes, the ubiquitous 91651-61040

17mm hex = 47 ft-lbs
14mm hex = 29 ft-lbs

The transfer case uses a few different bolts to clamp the two halves together. The two top bolts are 17mm (hex) and torque to 47 ft-lbs (since they thread into cast iron). They should be torqued first. See attached.

The remaining 14mm hex (10X1.25) are torqued to 29 ft-lbs since they thread into aluminum. There is a longer 17mm (hex) bolt (or two ) at the bottom that threads into the cast iron transfer adapter..so it gets torqued to 47 ft-lbs too.

You can ID the bolts HERE

 

[klinetime574]

Ahhh yes, the ubiquitous 91651-61040

The transfer case does uses two different bolts. The top bolts are 17mm (hex) and torque to 47 ft-lb. They should be torqued first. See attached.

The remaining 14mm (hex) (91651-61040) are torqued to 29 ft-lbs.

You can ID the bolts HERE

I must have read 40 ft/lbs somewhere on here... The torque didn't break the other bolts, so I'm not going to worry about that. Thanks for the clarification @Output Shaft

 

[Godwin]

For less than $50 you can get that flywheel looking new again.

Georg advised me to get this clutch kit when I was shopping. I have been very pleased and it was a better price than I saw elsewhere.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CI8XWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep up the good work!

I have the Luk clutch in 2 or 3 of my Cruisers. Been buying it through Carolina Clutch. I've never had any issues with it.