ROTM- klinetime574 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Oh hey. Remember me? I'm still around :)

Started on the H55 swap after dinner last night. Taking photos as I go for reference, etc. Hopefully it documents it well so others can use it.

This photo is noting shifter placement of the transfer-case lever

h55f14.jpg


Comparing my "early" lever on left to a "late" lever on right that is H55F compatible

h55f15.jpg


Drive-shaft clearance, etc.

h55f16.jpg


Here are my drive-shafts. Note that the front drive shaft is not in-phase or "lined up" like the rear. (imagine making a straight shot between the bolt patterns at each end.) Is that normal?

h55f17.jpg


Taking pictures around 11:30pm cause it was time to stop working

h55f18.jpg


Dang that thing is dirty lol

So the night consisted of draining the transmission & transfer-case, removing the shifters, and removing the drive shafts. Maybe I'll get that transmission dropped on Sunday.

Here is some popcorn for all of you :popcorn:

:hillbilly:
 
No that drive shaft should not be like that... Are you welding in the new crossmember or drilling holes in the frame and using bolts? I did the latter and it worked alright but welding would look more stock.
 
Planning on using my crossmember. My understanding is that it does not have to change. Just alter the driveshafts and then modify crossmember if any clearance issues.
 
The front shaft has a double cardan joint at the transfer case, so there is no "phasing" issue.

According to the FSM the U-joints should be lined up on the front.
[oops, that recommendation was for later models]

Oh okay. So is this normal for my '84 driveshaft or should I be concerned?
 
Damn Alex. I just read your little story, and now understand why you love your 60 as much as you do. Very nice dude. Hope your swap goes well.
 
Attached is from the 1980 FSM

So they should line up? The diagram shows it this way. I wonder if that thing has ever been worked on. There are some welds on it that look kinda funny. I doubt it though, my Dad would have mentioned that at some point. Also it has those (what appear to be) weights welded on it... normal?

Damn Alex. I just read your little story, and now understand why you love your 60 as much as you do. Very nice dude. Hope your swap goes well.

Thanks man. I definitely got the cruiser bug. :) Good to see you on the 60-Series forum ;)
 
So they should line up?

I'm not sure I can answer whether or not they 'should' line up, but this morning I checked the double cardan front drive shaft on my '81 FJ60 and it DOES line up...but that doesn't mean that yours is broken...from a physics point of view, I can't see how it would make much of a difference whether they are clocked in or out of phase...

Is that the original front drive shaft for your vehicle? Or has it be cut and fitted for length at some point in it's life...?
 
A double cardan is a constant velocity joint, so there is no pulsing change in the angular velocity that you need to worry about for phasing the U joint at the differential end. What you need to worry about for this type of shaft is that the angle of the drive shaft to the pinion should be close to zero (in line).
 
Also it has those (what appear to be) weights welded on it... normal?
Those are balancing weights that were installed/tack welded by Toyota.
If the drive shaft was taken apart at some time in the past (that you are not aware of) and put back together in a different orientation... then it will be out of balance.

Whether that is significant or not depends on how much out of balance and how much you use 4WD and at what speed.
If you are really into it, you could take the drive shaft to a drive shaft shop and they can check/re-balance the the drive shaft for you.
But the front drive shaft often doesn't get used that much, unless you use 4WD all winter and drive fast, so it may not be worth the trouble.
 
Is that the original front drive shaft for your vehicle? Or has it be cut and fitted for length at some point in it's life...?

As far as I know it is original.

A double cardan is a constant velocity joint, so there is no pulsing change in the angular velocity that you need to worry about for phasing the U joint at the differential end. What you need to worry about for this type of shaft is that the angle of the drive shaft to the pinion should be close to zero (in line).

Thank you, I'll be sure to check that.
 
Those are balancing weights that were installed/tack welded by Toyota.
If the drive shaft was taken apart at some time in the past (that you are not aware of) and put back together in a different orientation... then it will be out of balance.

Whether that is significant or not depends on how much out of balance and how much you use 4WD and at what speed.
If you are really into it, you could take the drive shaft to a drive shaft shop and they can check/re-balance the the drive shaft for you.
But the front drive shaft often doesn't get used that much, unless you use 4WD all winter and drive fast, so it may not be worth the trouble.

Well it has to go to the shop anyway to get lengthened (and the rear shortened). I'm sure it will get taken care of in the process.
 
Bring the drawing from the FSM when you take it to the shop. Sometimes those drive shaft guys can be morons. (in my experience)
 
Post #1 in this thread shows the DC driveshaft and the parts pic of the DC drive shaft. Looks like, with the DC drive shaft uninstalled from the vechile, you should be able to slide the front flange section forward off of it's splines, rotate it and reinstall it so that the bolt patterns (between front and rear flanges) align again...but I've never done this before and am just looking at a picture...and will that mess up the balance of the drive shaft?

images


Which makes me wonder if the last time the front driveshaft was off the vehicle someone did this and reinstalled that front part rotated a tad...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/double-cardan-driveshaft.622603/

Also, Johnny was having a conversation here in this thread with Woytovich about DC principles, but I'm not sure I 100% followed what was going on, but he might be a good source to sort this out...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/driveshaft-basics-double-cardan.709103/
 
image.jpg


:beer: break to do some research
 
why not just buy driveshafts from an 85-87? That's what I did and I just replaced the u-joints on the rear shaft, not the front because I only use 4wd four times a year.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom