ROTM- klinetime574

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Here’s a few shots of mine ( driver side) recently installed, my brackets appear to be on opposite sides than yours. IIRC doing mine this way cleared that lower bolt insert sleeve on the mishi rad. (Where ground strap is)

Pic 1. lower bracket
2. Step off built into radiator pushing it away from core support, not sure if this is in every design (?)
3. Gap at top of radiator and core support. This is usually filled with that foam strip, I need to find a decent strip material to fill this gap. So I guess mine angles slightly away from the support, is it correct/wrong?, not sure, but it was best fit.

(Yes those are two zip ties in the shroud bolt hole, I lost a fruckin’ bolt.)

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@Skniper Thanks for taking those pics. I couldn’t handle the brackets being installed on opposite sides from stock. I drilled holes in the brackets and got them to fit. I don’t think this little detail is a deal breaker as far as longevity of the radiator, but I’m a purist(?). Lol

I also picked up (2) 1/4” NPT to 3/8” hose barb and one 1/4” NPT cap. I bought what I said I wasn’t going to, but it was local and I don’t think it’s a big deal. You’ll see in the last pic the barb style I’m talking about. Hose clamps should seal a hose just fine.

First two pictures show the bracket in stock orientation (hitting the rivnut) and then flipped (clears rivnut). Third photo shows the mod. Fourth is the installed hose barb.

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Man they really polish those Champions up. :cool:

Post a pic of the top of the radiator compared to the rad. support when you get to that point, I'm curious.
Yes they sure do haha. Notice I am resisting by not cleaning or painting those brackets!

I’ll definitely take some pics when I have it installed.
 
Just sanded down and primed my shroud. Had to make it look good even though I’d rather throw the radiator in and drive it. Forgot to take a before pic, this is just the primer. It’s the rusty metal stuff that sprays on black. Rustoleum product. There might be some runs. Can was running out. It’ll look better than it did before :)

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Just realized that’s a bad picture. I’ll get more at a further step!
 
Got the fan shroud painted and I ordered a new fan. Couldn’t help myself. Old one was so yellow and cracking/chipping. Ordered from Rock Auto. Aisin FNT022

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That fan looks so out of place on my dirty engine but I’m okay with it.

Oh and I also ordered a AC idler bearing. Found an old thread where @FJ40Jim posted a link for one. Link still worked. Not as cheap as it was then but a heck of a lot cheaper than anywhere else. The old Napa part number changed and they now want $50 for that bearing. I paid $5.55 and $3.33 shipping.
 
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Got the radiator in tonight. Looks like flipping the mounts around (to match original) made little to no difference even though it seems like it should. @Skniper I know you were curious about this. I might email Champion and ask why the radiator leans back like that.

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At least it looks presentable.

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Then I spent some time aligning my hood (it’s been off for a while). I had the readjust everything because I removed that top piece on the core support that holds the hood latch. It still ain’t perfect but I’ve got parts from three different trucks on there if you count mine as one.

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I need to get a short 3/8” hose still to use for my radiator extension. I’ve read trans cooler hose would be compatible with coolant so I’ll get that. Also the drain is still in a terrible spot, so if you’re doing this, definitely extend the drain. Next up is pressure testing after installing the hose and then filling with coolant if all is well. Then I’ll install the headlights!

That’s all for now :beer:
 
I have a customer's 60 in the shop now with a Champion radiator, same thing with that gangsta lean :meh:
 
Yep, you got the radiator lean too, it has that swept back faster look, just own it man!

Reality is, it's probably just a little more than OEM which has the foam strip attached to seal the gap, so it's not as noticeable but there is a gap.
There's a few other mud posts that report the same thing. Easy to seal with some good foam strip or foil furnace tape.

Important thing is the clearance of the fan from the radiator and fan shroud...and the temp gauge.
 
@cruisermatt @Skniper Yeah, maybe they meant for it to have this lean. I'm going to run with no foam first and see how it does. I used the good waterproof closed cell foam on my stock radiator and I'm kind of convinced it led to failure. Clearances are good with the fan/shroud/radiator. It's snowing here today so I'm not itching to get it on the road yet.
 
Cleaned my engine bay a little bit. Found out all of the plastic clips that hold the molding along the top of the firewall are busted. It’s held in with hopes and dreams at the moment.

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Got the drain extension sorted. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that my local Napa had 3/8” heater hose. Don’t mind if I do! $1.50 well spent for one foot. I will secure it somewhere, probably with a zip tie.

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I got carried away dreaming about patina and shot my hood with compressed air and hit it with a green scotch brite. Made a subtle difference.

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Lastly my AC idler bearing showed up. Two days earlier than expected. Yippee! 6302RS by VXB. Thanks again @FJ40Jim for that link.

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Finished. Running great. Vacuum coolant fillers are the bees knees. Found loose hoses before filling. Running at ~1/3 on the factory gauge.

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I like these headlights. A lot.

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Low beam pattern

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High beams with Hella 500FF

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Those headlights are awesome. Way better than my Hellas.
Yeah. I haven’t even aimed them properly yet but they actually make the road appear to be lit, and more importantly I can see. 81110-60P70

I don’t know what the cause is, but my high beam indicator no longer works. Between the switched grounds and new harness I’m lost electrically.
 

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