Build ROTM- klinetime574

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I’ve had zero issues from mine. It actually had a proper petcock unlike the pos CSF. I still need to add a ground strap.
 
@Skniper @HemiAlex

Ground strap? Not sure my factory even has this...
 
klinetime574 said:
@Skniper @HemiAlex

Ground strap? Not sure my factory even has this...
Click to expand...

It prevents the aluminum radiator from sacrificial corrosion. Just a battery cable from a mounting bolt to the body/frame.
 
HemiAlex said:
It prevents the aluminum radiator from sacrificial corrosion. Just a battery cable from a mounting bolt to the body/frame.
Click to expand...
Okay, good to know.

I just researched what type of coolant I should be using with an aluminum radiator. I found an old thread on here and a lot of opinions on other forums. Then I found Champion actually published something about it.

What Coolant Color Should I Use In A Champion Radiator?

I'll be sticking with O'Reilly's conventional green and distilled water. I was using this before and my coolant was pretty clean. Slight bit of corrosion color in it, probably mostly from the rear heater hard lines and engine mounted hard lines. I'll leave them alone for now, but I imagine a rear heater delete might become favorable in the future.
 
I’ve read similar stuff, and that adding a ground strap to an aluminum rad. is up for great debate as well. I searched a few different forums (muscle cars, big trucks, etc) and there’s a variety of opinions. I’ll be adding one to mine regardless.

I ran Toyota red for a lot of years in my 62. When I switched radiators to my first mishimoto, I swapped over to traditional Prestone green, not because it was recommended but bc I wanted something I could find in the middle of nowhere at a mom n pop store, mom nor pop are going to have Toyo red koolaid....and guess what these had in them from the factory in the 1980’s.

Covid-19 related...I have always mixed my own coolant/distilled. Since the lemmings bought up all the damn water, I recently was forced to buy the 50/50 Prestone mix, I’ll likely be doing that from now on, so much easier, and I live in near tropic conditions that you two know well. No need to mix a stronger concentration.
 
I actually like my rear heater, it’s a great shoe/boot drier if needed and blows hot as hell when needed to knock the chill out of the rig.
When flushing out the red stuff, I ran straight distilled for a couple days a few times. It was amazing how rusty discolored the water would get quickly. When I did the final fill with new green stuff it stayed bright and clean, I guess the rust inhibitors work well with a good mix.
The magnetic drain plug also picked up the fine metallic sediment.
 
@HemiAlex I definitely see the appeal of it. Kind of want to order 87251-30200 that @Spike Strip posted just to have for the future. Toyota part that replaces the factory fitting.

1A113214-B42B-4518-A361-236555894F74.webp


@Skniper Luckily I already had some distilled water. Definitely agree with you on the 50/50 mix being easier. I probably will buy it next time. Already have 2.5 gallons of concentrate and 3 gallons of distilled which is more than enough lol.

I’ll definitely ground the radiator. Can’t hurt. I switched from red once I realized I could save money with no downside and use a more common fluid.

Lastly, I think I’ve used my rear heater once. My brother was cold during a wheeling trip back when Lonestar Toyota Jamboree was held in January. Now that I live in Illinois and don’t drive during salt months heater usage is minimal anyway.
 
For me, since my truck shares a lot of stuff with a 62 my heater was under the passenger seat. I removed it, put hole plugs in the floor and its my tool bag storage now.
 
@klinetime574 @HemiAlex Just added that ground strap to my alum radiator. As mentioned I found my old original yellow stripe ground straps, this one is a good size and the eyelets/lugs fit the 12mm bolts perfectly. I tied it to a fan shroud bolt in direct contact with rad. and the PS line bracket on the frame rail.

Not sure if there’s a right or wrong way to do ground, this is just a convenient location.

FCD29B9D-0732-4CBE-A4CF-9E387DA52C28.webp
 
Skniper said:
@klinetime574 @HemiAlex Just added that ground strap to my alum radiator. As mentioned I found my old original yellow stripe ground straps, this one is a good size and the eyelets/lugs fit the 12mm bolts perfectly. I tied it to a fan shroud bolt in direct contact with rad. and the PS line bracket on the frame rail.

Not sure if there’s a right or wrong way to do ground, this is just a convenient location.
Click to expand...
Looks good to me! Thanks for sharing that location.
 
One of the first things I did was investigate the drain plug. It might be a quarter of an inch further to the passenger side of the vehicle. I'm going to extend the drain as planned. I'll need to order some parts, don't think anyone local will have 1/4" NPT to hose barb. Most common thing I found online was 1/4" NPT to 3/8" hose barb. I'm looking to just get a barb with a single bead roll on the end which mimics the radiator and other hard lines. Then I can run some hose with hose clamps. Should seal up just fine.

The drain plug is interesting, must be fairly common, found Dorman replacements online. You can see in the second and third photos the closed and open positions. I measured the thread and it does have taper. 0.48" at the narrowest, and 0.52" at the widest. I believe this is 1/4" NPT from what I researched.

Right after removing the plug. Sealed from the factory with teflon tape.

324CCC8C-6652-47B9-9272-7EF15721153E.jpeg

Closed
D6344ED1-B631-4DC9-A064-4A3F661C5E48.jpeg

Open
1C3DF35C-DB5B-4095-A541-34199E99B0D1.jpeg

Installed with no tape for mock up
1697AD12-E050-4B5B-B3C5-6A474852AB17.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Next up some comparison photos.

1D7142BF-002E-405C-BFDE-D727C28002E9.jpeg

91C27491-D192-480E-AE82-2296E9823ECB.jpeg

A5AFC525-9848-4ACF-AC65-50F3966E958A.jpeg
379E2E65-D4E6-4AB6-8CFA-D768736F1F11.jpeg
8632D137-D25E-45C9-979D-7C7D82AAF2B3.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Next, I mocked up the radiator in the vehicle. I started by swapping the brackets that bolt to the radiator, here is where I need some feedback.

I removed the first bracket and tried to install on the same side of the new radiator. It did not fit because it contacted the lowest rivet nut for the fan shroud. I marked a spot on it and was about to modify it and then had a thought, try it on the other side. The brackets bolt on if you swap sides.

The issue that arises here, the lower mount holes are not symmetrical from the 4 radiator studs. Meaning that the lower part of the radiator moves closer to the core support when installed the way the brackets fit. I measured about 1/8" of difference. I installed an upper bolt and lower bolt to check if the radiator would sit parallel with the core support. It did not. I'm a little paranoid of the radiator being installed improperly, leading to premature failure, etc etc. I'm not talking about a crazy lean here (remember, 1/8" difference from the old radiator), but just visually the radiator did not seems to sit correctly. I could get all of the bolts installed if I wanted to, but didn't like how the radiator appeared to not be parallel with the core support.

I didn't take any pics of this issue because I was annoyed and wanted to go home. Look forward to feedback.

@HemiAlex @Skniper did y'all notice anything like this? Skniper I know you're running a Mishimoto but I'm curious.

I'm thinking I will proceed with making the brackets fit the way they were removed from my old radiator unless there is something I'm missing. I know I'm probably overthinking this. I just want to get it right!
 
Last edited:
HemiAlex said:
Isn’t your core support warped from that wreck?
Click to expand...
Nope. This is a replacement. Same truck I got the lower valence from. Don't ask me why I didn't get the already color matched fender lol.
 
Here is a pic of the stock bracket the way mine was.

5AA131BD-F0D0-4BC8-A25F-899C2A1DB63E.webp


It’s hard to see but there is a slight offset which pushes the radiator out more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom