Builds ROTM- klinetime574 (3 Viewers)

[klinetime574]

Got out in the garage again today. My next mod is relocating the Sniper coolant temperature sensor to my thermostat housing. I don’t like the block drain location. It was a huge PITA getting it installed there originally because of my headers. Holley instructions say intake manifold or cylinder head. Also the NPT sensor in a BSPT hole stressed me out.

I sourced an adapter from McMaster. Part # 4860K143

I’m kinda concerned the sensor is too far away and may have limited coolant flow (see second picture above). It almost looks like it seals itself off, but there is a small gap. I realize this isn’t ideal and would be better off directly in the thermostat housing, but it can’t be worse than the block drain hole. Wire from Sniper is just long enough. I’ll monitor to make sure I don’t melt it from the header. Need to get more coolant and then I can bleed it and drive it. We shall see if it makes a difference.

By the way if you need a weekend project do this.

Extendo drain cuz! So glad I did this when I installed this radiator. Works flawlessly. Got about 3 gallons out that way and then another gallon (if I had to guess, ended up on the floor) out of the block drain hole.

That’s all for now. Ask questions about anything.

 

[klinetime574]

As expected the mod made no difference at all. I filled it with coolant and then it leaked. Pulled all of them back out, cleaned the threads, applied (more) Permatex high temp thread sealant. Fixed. Highest I saw the temperature get to on the Sniper screen was 170. Test drove and she still rips.

I need to clean this thing up (and my garage floor).

 

[CruiserTrash]

@klinetime574 FYI Toyota makes an engine block coolant drain with a little piece you can stick a hose on. Instead of unscrewing the plug and the coolant coming straight out, you unscrew a plug and the coolant comes out a short pipe at a 90* angle. Just stick the housing in so the 90* pipe faces down and you get easy access to put some aquarium tubing on it.

Anyway, nice work as always.

 

[klinetime574]

@klinetime574 FYI Toyota makes an engine block coolant drain with a little piece you can stick a hose on. Instead of unscrewing the plug and the coolant coming straight out, you unscrew a plug and the coolant comes out a short pipe at a 90* angle. Just stick the housing in so the 90* pipe faces down and you get easy access to put some aquarium tubing on it.

Anyway, nice work as always.

Yeah I saw that block drain alternate part recently. I have an extension tube on my radiator so that’s nice. Maybe if I ever feel like unscrewing that block drain again I’ll have that substitute part on hand lol. Thanks for the kind words!

 

[klinetime574]

Small stuff. But I might as well post it. Finally got my license plate lens gaskets put on. I sourced some new screws from Ace Hardware. I was missing an original and I wanted them all to match. They were metric, M4-0.7 I think.

Got my grill and headlight surrounds swapped out with a used set I’ve had for MANY years in a box. It didn’t fit the same. Grill is aftermarket, doors look OG. It’s okay, but I’ll fix my old one and paint it someday.

I dropped a grill screw in the winch so I had to pull some rope out. Now I need to find somewhere I can wind it back up lol

Then tonight I felt like taking a gas bath so I changed my pre-pump fuel filter (Sniper setup). I pulled the old filter apart. Two years old and looked fine. I have some issues with cold starts that I need to look into more and figured it wouldn’t hurt to change this.

I pulled the pleats apart and didn’t see anything noteworthy.

Maybe I’ll drive it to work tomorrow!

 

[klinetime574]

Drove it all week except for one night/morning (test drove a customer car). Needed to get oil and filter for the wife’s 2019 RAV-4 so I got oil for the Cruiser. It’s supposed to be hot enough so I’m gonna try this out. Valvoline VR1 20W-50 with a 90915-YZZD3. Dorman 097-130 drain plug gasket.

My drain plug was leaking pretty good (reused the gasket last time) so it prompted an early oil change. Between that and my 2F overall I only drained out a 5 quart jug almost to the top. Whoops. Only had about 1,500 miles on it and I added a half quart at one point. The drain plug was leaking pretty good. It would leave a small plate sized spot over the course of 8 hours. I fixed that now. So we’re good. Right?

Here is a Rock Auto Discount Code for anyone who needs one. Expires August 18, 2023.

238232232184859472

 

[Beehanger]

Got out in the garage again today. My next mod is relocating the Sniper coolant temperature sensor to my thermostat housing. I don’t like the block drain location. It was a huge PITA getting it installed there originally because of my headers. Holley instructions say intake manifold or cylinder head. Also the NPT sensor in a BSPT hole stressed me out.

I sourced an adapter from McMaster. Part # 4860K143

View attachment 3305720View attachment 3305719View attachment 3305721View attachment 3305722
I’m kinda concerned the sensor is too far away and may have limited coolant flow (see second picture above). It almost looks like it seals itself off, but there is a small gap. I realize this isn’t ideal and would be better off directly in the thermostat housing, but it can’t be worse than the block drain hole. Wire from Sniper is just long enough. I’ll monitor to make sure I don’t melt it from the header. Need to get more coolant and then I can bleed it and drive it. We shall see if it makes a difference.

By the way if you need a weekend project do this.
View attachment 3305723
Extendo drain cuz! So glad I did this when I installed this radiator. Works flawlessly. Got about 3 gallons out that way and then another gallon (if I had to guess, ended up on the floor) out of the block drain hole.

That’s all for now. Ask questions about anything.

Curious about this extend drain thing..... is this from your radiator?

 

[klinetime574]

Curious about this extend drain thing..... is this from your radiator?

Yes it is. See THIS post and THIS post for more info. Very useful mod IMHO

 

[klinetime574]

It’s alive again. I got a new oil pan and gasket. 12101-61013 (pan), 12151-61011 (oil pan gasket), 90341-12012 (plug), and 90430-12031 (plug gasket). Thanks @OGBeno for the part numbers.

Let me just say, you can do this on the floor of your garage without even lifting the vehicle (OME suspension), but you shouldn’t. My body hurts. I had to loosen the front driveshaft and swing it out of the way to remove my inspection cover (H55F, if it matters). You may see that in the video. Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 and filter 90915-YZZD3.

Comparison shots of my old pan (with gasket) and the new pan. The biggest difference here is the drain plug. 14mm instead of a 19mm. That equates to a smaller drain plug hole. I’ll be curious to see how that drains next service.

Used the zip tie trick to hold the gasket in place.

I probably did 10 rounds of snug on those 22 bolts before giving a little more oomph. Worked from the center out. 11 bolts per side. Started in the middle and worked towards the front and rear, alternating. I did not use a torque wrench for the ridiculously low torque spec (~7 ft-lbs). Just used a normal ratchet with my fingers to what felt right. My SOR headers made it fun because they get so close to the pan. Swapping socket extensions like a mad man. 12mm swivel socket was key here. I used Toyota FIPG on the block side only in the intersection of flat and arches. Pretty sure this is what the FSM says to do. I snugged them some and then had to let it sit. Got working on it again three days later.

The video below was taken before it was road worthy. I needed some light at the end of tunnel (inspection cover and front drive shaft not yet installed). I feel good about this considering this is like the 4th time I’ve done an OPG. I also adjusted my clutch. I didn’t have free play at the push rod. Height was good. Adjusted free play and then I had tons of free play at the fork (lots of pedal travel before engagement). Adjusted free play at the fork and got it good enough. Thanks @2mbb Ran it for a little while, nothing, test drove, and all looked well. Gonna drive it to work tomorrow.

 

[John McVicker]

Personally, I like the 14m drain plug VS the 19m plug MUCH better.

It’s not that big of a deal but for me anyway, the oil rushes out too quickly with the larger plug. With the larger plug I have to hold it close after I fully loosen it in order to not have oil splashing everywhere. Not that big of a deal but much more control with the smaller plug.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@klinetime574 Did you have any issues with the fitment of the new oil pan? I understand there were several different oil pan part numbers that are now superceded to one single part number. When I installed a new one on my 1982 motor both the oil pump and dipstick hit one of the baffles. I compared the new to the old, and sure enough one of the baffles was about 5-10mm off. It was just enough to cause the issues. I clearenced the oil pump cutout and bent the top lip of the baffle and everything worked fine, but BOY was I scratching my head about it while doing the job.

 

[klinetime574]

@klinetime574 Did you have any issues with the fitment of the new oil pan? I understand there were several different oil pan part numbers that are now superceded to one single part number. When I installed a new one on my 1982 motor both the oil pump and dipstick hit one of the baffles. I compared the new to the old, and sure enough one of the baffles was about 5-10mm off. It was just enough to cause the issues. I clearenced the oil pump cutout and bent the top lip of the baffle and everything worked fine, but BOY was I scratching my head about it while doing the job.

Honestly I didn’t test fit the pan. I remember you having issues with that and I was concerned. That’s why I compared them side by side. Once I saw they were identical on the bench I just sent it. Before I torqued the pan down firmly I did wiggle the dipstick and it was normal.

 

[klinetime574]

Why didn’t I do this sooner?

Took it to the muffler shop down the street from my work. It starts better. Seems to run a little better. Sound stayed about the same. Maybe a touch more raspy at idle and under acceleration. Best $86 bucks I’ve spent in a while. Considering the hi-flow converter was 16 years old and the motor has been burning oil the whole time it could have been partially restricted. I’ll see how the cold start is in the morning.

Sound clip because racecar. Sorry about my loud fuel pump, normal operation AFAIK

 

[MWM1]

Have you noticed any increased exhaust smell at the stop lights? With windows up or down?
Ty!

 

[klinetime574]

Have you noticed any increased exhaust smell at the stop lights? With windows up or down?
Ty!

Honestly I couldn’t tell a difference. I had the windows down today… they will be down again tomorrow too. Found out today my AC doesn’t work. I’ll see if I notice anything. My drive is about 32 miles and I go through 12 traffic lights. I’ll keep my nose on alert tomorrow for you.

 

[klinetime574]

@MWM1 Update for you. I would say you can definitely tell it doesn’t have one. Windows down wind coming from behind me type thing. I wouldn’t call it overpowering though. Just a tractor doing race tractor things.

 

[MWM1]

Thank you for the follow up!
I was contemplating just using the straight pipe. I am waiting for @cruisermatt to finish up the FJ62 stainless steel exhaust header back to the OEM muffler pipe connection. Maybe by the Holidays??!

 

[klinetime574]

Just gassed it up after a week of commuting 65 miles round trip. (I’m off tomorrow for my birthday) Oil pan still holding solid. 13.3mpg

Ain’t gonna complain

 

[TallCanDan]

Stopped by in the nick of time, happy birthday Alex!