Roof Rack (1 Viewer)

[80and100cruisers]

Thanks for the input. I ended up getting an Yakima LoadWarrior. I bought it from a REI store and have it installed allready. It measures 44x39x6.5 and I ordered the extension, which will add 18 inches of length. It mounts to the factory crossbars. Right now it seems very stable, I will tell yall how it holds up on my trip to colorado under a good load. And now I am thinking...what a good place to mount lights....that sounds like a good afrer x-mas project.


-Matt

 

[e9999]

looked at the basket on top of the factory rack type too. Seems OK, but the cross bars are sometimes pretty flexible and can only handle 150 lbs total per label. So not obvious that this is a good solution for weighty loads.
On the 100, the bars are pretty curvy as well. Cheaper though. Saw a decent looking one made by "BMG" IIRC. Oh yes, Thule has one as well.
Eric

 

[Landpimp]

considering I have 9 cars(6 of em full coverage), one boat, one house insured, total is just over 4k a year........which isn't really that bad...........considering : When I was younger I paid $250 a month for just one car.........I had a "few" tickets and stuff

John

[quote author=concretejungle link=board=2;threadid=9120;start=msg79636#msg79636 date=1072212980]
i'de hate to pay your insurance bill every year!!!
[/quote]

 

[Riley]

Roof Rack (and plugging the factory holes)

I thought I'd dig up this thread (instead of starting a new one) to discuss how to fill the old holes in the roof from the factory rack. I tried a search because I know it's been discussed but I failed.

Anyway - what's the best way to fill these holes to ensure they don't leak and rust. I don't really care about looks that much since it's real hard to see up there.

I'm thinking I read to find some rubber plugs (not sure where) and use some black sealer to "glue" them in with.

ideas guys/gals? (hows that for PC ? : )

Riley

 

[firetruck41]

I don't have an answer for you Riley, but since your bringing this one back to the top, this is the perfect place to announce:

SLEE finally has info and prices on the new Roofracks and sliding cargo drawers, on his website, I think it was just updated today
It's too rich for my blood right now, but would love to have both.

 

[Riley]

[quote author=firetruck41 link=board=2;threadid=9120;start=msg115499#msg115499 date=1078467040]
I don't have an answer for you Riley, but since your bringing this one back to the top, this is the perfect place to announce:

SLEE finally has info and prices on the new Roofracks and sliding cargo drawers, on his website, I think it was just updated today
It's too rich for my blood right now, but would love to have both.
[/quote]

That's actually why I'm asking how to fill the old holes.
Now I just need to slip this past my wife when she's not looking. That reminds me that I was going to post how my new cruiser fund plan back fired. I'll go post that on chit chat.

 

[cruiserdan]

I used 5x1.00mm stainless steel phillips head countersunk screws and stainless steel rosette washers. I placed o-rings under the rosette washers and coated the screw threads and o-rings with silicone sealer.

 

[Riley]

>> and stainless steel rosette washers.<<

Not sure what a rosette washer is but I'll figure it out. Sounds like a much better way to seal them up compared to what I was thinking, thanks Dan.

 

[Darwood]

I did something similar to Dan. For the 4 rails I used phillips head counter sunk 5mmx10mm screws and a rubber washer under them. For the rack towers I used a slightly domed flat head 5mmx12mm screw sealed with silicone. I plan to post pictures of this soon. As to why I used this combination... I don't really know, but I think it looks nice.

The rails were a pain to get off since they are connected to a plastic mounting rail that is held on by 3m automotive tape. It took a while to get off but I eventually got it. Used a lot of goof off to soften the tape/adhesive first.

One thing that still bothers me is that the roof has some ripples where the nutserts were inserted for the towers.

 

[Riley]

Derek - do you think it's important to get the rails off? I was going to leave them on but I guess I'm a little worried about the rust.

I guess I could go one step at a time.

Does it rust underthere?

 

[Darwood]

The only part of the rails that I would worry about for rust would be the plastic end caps and the nutserts. I don't think the rails themselves would cause any kind of rust. The paint under mine was fine. Of course I have a west coast cruiser so I really can't say if there would be problems in an eastern cruiser.

I took the rails off mainly for the cleaner look. Well cleaner minus the holes in my roof

The rack towers definitely had the worst problem corrosion wise on my truck and it really wasn't that bad. Just a little rust on the nutserts. The Dremil tool cleaned them up nicely.

 

[Riley]

Ok well I got my roof rack ripped off today and plugged the holes as Dan suggested (interm plugging actually).

I have a bit of rust at one of the nutserts. I don't have a dremil but I'll clean it up somehow (perhaps borrow a dremil). Anyway what does everbody use to treat the area after removing the rust & paint? I recall reading about some new products for stopping rust but my search failed me. Rust is not a good thing to search on (expected lots of hits on the 40/60 tech page but not that many on the 80 forum ).

Any good suggestings on what to use for this application? Hopefully I will be able to find it in Canada.

Riley

 

[tucker74]

POR 15 is the best product for stopping rust - but you're going to have to topcoat it from the UV on the roof. I'd get a little touch up paint to match your truck and dab it over the POR 15 (make sure it's still tacky!!).

Tucker

 

[lx450landcruiser]

I'll sell you the custom rack u just made for my cruiser. it heavy as hell but it can hold anything you throw at it.

mike

 

[Junk]

Now we just need some pics of Christo's in this thread and we'll have a decent starting point for a faq on roofracks.

 

[cruiserdan]

A rack footnote:


I just removed my Garvin in order to re-finish it and Polish my roof. I made a couple road trips without it and found that my Fuel mileage came up about 1.5 MPG. So, based on that, I would suggest that you run your rack only when you need it. I use mine 2-3 times a year and I will not be putting it back on until I "need" it.


D-

 

[Beowulf]

>> A rack footnote: <<

That's the main reason I want a good quality aluminum rack; so it's a 1 man job to remove and install. The mileage and, of course, being able to fit Pristine in a nice comfy heated garage.

-B-

 

[Junk]

B,
FYI, my Hannibal is very light, but it's still a 2 person job based strictly on how high it and precisely it has to be lifted and lowered. Way too hard for one person, unless 12' tall. Maybe put some small lifts on your boots?

 

[e9999]

eh guys, why not put a hook in the ceiling with a pulley, and lift the rack up and leave it there. Then when you need it, down and on it goes... One person job!
E

 

[Junk]

only prob is the truck don't fit in the garage. Thought about that though, but pulling it under a tree. Still more effort than it is worth, because it's just an awkward length to get lined up and drop it down. 2 people takes about 2 minutes, then the other person can leave as I tighen it up.

good thought though