Roof Rack holes and sealant question

[abrumley]

So I am dealing up the roof rack nutserts and I'm curious what you guys think is most appropriate to fill them. They aren't in horrible shape and I've got a FrontRunner rack so I won't be reusing them. I got the following items.

#1 Permatex liquid metal filler
#2 Flowable windshield silicone
#3 JB Weld SteelStick

My plan is to clean them up with some rust dissolver neutralize the area then fill them and possibly sand around them lightly and top with some flex seal as the rack mostly covers them anyway. So what do you think?

 

[SoCal_80]

Highly recommend getting them ground down and the holes welded up. I did the same a few years ago and can't be happier


Sent from my iPhone

 

[abrumley]

I'm feeling kinda lazy at the moment. I really don't want to drop the headliner. I was hoping to do this over the weekend and keep it from getting bad until I do it as you suggest.

 

[Luke111]

I used JB Weld epoxy when one of the nutsert dropped.... Not really worried about cosmetics because I have a roof rack that hasn't been removed for three years...

 

[e9999]

I used Silicone sealant IIRC, it's been almost 10 years and no leak. I did put some plastic inserts in there to help with it all.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

This subject has been beaten to death in countless threads.

 

[rc51kid]

This subject has been beaten to death in countless threads.

Yes it has been but since i am usually the one to fail to search i will be happy to help out. People here tend to like PAR15 i think it is to treat rust? i have never use it. But maybe treat your rust with that. The i had been told NOT to use silicone that it has some chemicals that can cause rust, who knows. But they said use Toyota FIPG, which i keep on hand so that is what i used. In the ones with the nut in place, uses stainless steel button heads with some FIPG on them, done. Then the ones with broken nut insets use FPIG and push in place plastic caps that i found at ACE hardware. I forget what they are called. Had them on there for two years and no problems. I just removed then to fill the holes with JB weld steel stick epoxy, sand and so on in prep for paint. I should have just left the plastic plugs in and painted over it. The were working just fine,

 

[abrumley]

This subject has been beaten to death in countless threads.

Oh I know it has and I apologize for dragging it up. My brain hurt from reading them all. So many opinions and ideas I had a hard time seeing what had worked well for others.

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

I am In the same position as you. I bought stainless Pan head bolts to match thread pattern and sealed them with Toyota grey fpig so you could see a small doughnut of the stuf when tightened down. Took about 20 minutes for all of them and I'm good until I have a reason to pull the liner. Looks fine, no leaks for a year and a half now. Good Luck..!

 

[abrumley]

Thank you! After cleaning them up it was obvious that they were in very good condition with no rust bubbling anywhere. I ended up making a trip to the hardware store and got some 5mm .80 12mm long stainless hex heads and some rubber sealing washers. Not beautiful but it's covered by a rack anyway. I will keep an eye on them and if something bad starts to happen re access

 

[abrumley]

Thankfully this truck spent it's life in Texas so rust has not been an issue. I just want to keep her that way!

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I used stainless button head screws and no sealant, no leaks after 2 years...an I live in the sunny willammette valley LOL. Those of you who aren't familiar, we are considered a rain forest environment lol.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

If you are planning on painting your roof and you want no evidence of a roof rack here's how I do it:

The trick to filling them with steel stick or the equivalent is:
You must dent the hole (inward of course) with a tapered punch so the filling stays and the finish ends up smooth.
If rust, treat with POR 15, before steel stick, bondo, prime and paint.

 

[BrotherRob]

Thank you! After cleaning them up it was obvious that they were in very good condition with no rust bubbling anywhere. I ended up making a trip to the hardware store and got some 5mm .80 12mm long stainless hex heads and some rubber sealing washers. Not beautiful but it's covered by a rack anyway. I will keep an eye on them and if something bad starts to happen re access View attachment 1152066View attachment 1152067

This, quick and dirty. My roof is over 6' off the ground, who cares what it looks like?

 

[Reverend Ink]

I used stainless button head screws and no sealant, no leaks after 2 years...an I live in the sunny willamette valley LOL. Those of you who aren't familiar, we are considered a rain forest environment lol.

I tell people that when I was growing up in Portland we got 300 days of rain a year, anything beyond that was just a bonus, and that you really only "needed" A/C for maybe one week a year...but that was when I thought 90 was hot. First full week in Idaho (including moving day) was 110+ the entire week.

Thank you! After cleaning them up it was obvious that they were in very good condition with no rust bubbling anywhere. I ended up making a trip to the hardware store and got some 5mm .80 12mm long stainless hex heads and some rubber sealing washers. Not beautiful but it's covered by a rack anyway. I will keep an eye on them and if something bad starts to happen re access View attachment 1152066View attachment 1152067

I just picked up a INTI rack and have to remove the port installed. Thanks for the measurements on the bolts you used. Think I'll venture over to the hardware store tomorrow. I won't drop the headliner unless absolutely necessary because mine's a '94, and I don't have a death wish.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Rev! I lived in Nampa a long time ago and worked a summer job in Boise restoring old Victorian houses. Hotter than a chop shop Honda in the summer.

 

[izzyandsue]

Most of my nutserts where gone, so I chiseled out the rest and used these Ford plastic panel caps with a good dose of black RTV sealant.
The bolts would have been a good idea, but my 80 is so slick that it would have created too much drag on the roof. So this low drag solution will help keep my 0-60 times in the low 20's.

 

[eric90503]

fillin'demHoes.mov

Just weld it! It's not that bad.