I had the same problem too. Except I was lazy and the only ghetto thing I did on my build. Zip tie it to the main harness on the firewall. Lol I told myself i would fix it next weekend. It's been about a month now. I totally forgot about it till now. Guess I'll Fab a bracket this weekend.
Builds Ronny's Wits End Turbo lnstall (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ronny Grady
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Noted...it needs a bracket 
I still didn't make a bracket. 80s been on the back burner for project time now that it runs and drives great.Noted...it needs a bracket
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
I zipped ty'd mine to air intake for now I don't like how much heat transfer was happening with bracket. I started to do the same thing until I drove it and figured out how hot that clamp gets. I was thinking maybe a tab on air intake to put zip ty thru?
AND??? Have you driven this thing yet? BTW, love the Sand Hollow pics. That's right behind my house.
- Thread starter
- #66
I drove up to Bald Mountain OHV area this weekend, up past Fresno, CA. The main climb up to the Sierra's from the Central Valley on Hwy 168 starts a bit under 2,000 feet elevation and is 4 lane most of the way up to 5,000 feet. Before the turbo install, I'd hit the hill with speed, pedal to the metal. The truck would slow to ~30MPH, I'd shift into 2nd, then grind up the hill at 40mph, 4k RPM. I have 4.88 diff gears. You know the story, the guys towing boats would pass me.
Yesterday my buddy in his LR3 (4.4L V8, 300HP, 6k lbs.) and I raced up the hill. I had OD off, kept the revs above 3k RPM and could slowly pull away from the LR3. I accelerated up to 75 MPH going up the hill several times after slowing to ~60MPH for corners.
The ambient temperature was about 75 degrees. Not that I have loads of turbo experience, but I didn't notice any heat soak at the top. Engine temps stayed flat (I'm only running the stock gauges). Hood temp felt fine at the top, no bad smells.
Wheeling was a good time. I hadn't been to Bald Mountain before. I smacked the skids and bumpers plenty, hit all the hard lines on the black trails I saw. There was a steep granite slab where I got stuck behind a group of jeeps and 3-linked 4-runners. I got impatient and passed the group. The FJ80 climbed the steep slab, no drama. Oh yeah, Man grunts and high fives!
Not many photos - but here's one on a granite dome and on the only ledges section where we stopped for photos.
Yesterday my buddy in his LR3 (4.4L V8, 300HP, 6k lbs.) and I raced up the hill. I had OD off, kept the revs above 3k RPM and could slowly pull away from the LR3. I accelerated up to 75 MPH going up the hill several times after slowing to ~60MPH for corners.
The ambient temperature was about 75 degrees. Not that I have loads of turbo experience, but I didn't notice any heat soak at the top. Engine temps stayed flat (I'm only running the stock gauges). Hood temp felt fine at the top, no bad smells.
Wheeling was a good time. I hadn't been to Bald Mountain before. I smacked the skids and bumpers plenty, hit all the hard lines on the black trails I saw. There was a steep granite slab where I got stuck behind a group of jeeps and 3-linked 4-runners. I got impatient and passed the group. The FJ80 climbed the steep slab, no drama. Oh yeah, Man grunts and high fives!
Not many photos - but here's one on a granite dome and on the only ledges section where we stopped for photos.
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- Thread starter
- #67
Last week we drove to Bishop, CA and did some camping. It was hot, upper 90's out. The turbo worked great for the 800 mile trip including on Sonora pass. I felt some heat soak on long climbs in the heat above Bishop and did notice the need for the shift kit (3-2 down shifts especially, I had to shift manually a few times). I'll have to install the shift kit soon. There is at least one customer who will buy a meth injection kit @NLXTACY 
I decided to monstaline my truck before the trip. That was a big 2.5 day activity in my driveway, but I'm happy with the results. I chose GET HAMMERED color. It definitely reduced road noise another notch, even quieter on top of the frost king I've installed on my doors and floor. I sanded and wiped the truck down with acetone for more time that I like to remember:
I then put on two coats, following the instructions:
I like how it turned out. Here are some photos above Bishop:
I decided to monstaline my truck before the trip. That was a big 2.5 day activity in my driveway, but I'm happy with the results. I chose GET HAMMERED color. It definitely reduced road noise another notch, even quieter on top of the frost king I've installed on my doors and floor. I sanded and wiped the truck down with acetone for more time that I like to remember:
I then put on two coats, following the instructions:
I like how it turned out. Here are some photos above Bishop:
Looks really good, and I'm liking the color. Wish I had that kind of energy that job would take me at least two and have week. Did you roll or spray.Last week we drove to Bishop, CA and did some camping. It was hot, upper 90's out. The turbo worked great for the 800 mile trip including on Sonora pass. I felt some heat soak on long climbs in the heat above Bishop and did notice the need for the shift kit (3-2 down shifts especially, I had to shift manually a few times). I'll have to install the shift kit soon. There is at least one customer who will buy a meth injection kit @NLXTACY
I decided to monstaline my truck before the trip. That was a big 2.5 day activity in my driveway, but I'm happy with the results. I chose GET HAMMERED color. It definitely reduced road noise another notch, even quieter on top of the frost king I've installed on my doors and floor. I sanded and wiped the truck down with acetone for more time that I like to remember:
View attachment 2353976
View attachment 2353977
I then put on two coats, following the instructions:
View attachment 2353978
I like how it turned out. Here are some photos above Bishop:
View attachment 2353979
View attachment 2353980
Did you sign up for the Rubithon ?
John, the truck looks great! Can’t wait for Swamp Lake! I’ll race you up that grade hahah!!
- Thread starter
- #70
@brosky - the Rubithon dates are likely a no-go for me this year.
I rolled on the Monstaliner in my driveway. I don't have spray equipment, plus over spray on the house would mean divorce and over spray on the cars parked on the street would not have helped with neighbor relations
@Shoredreamer - you know it! Swamp lake is on like donkey kong for Aug 1. I'm watching closely to confirm it opens on July 1 this year:
I rolled on the Monstaliner in my driveway. I don't have spray equipment, plus over spray on the house would mean divorce and over spray on the cars parked on the street would not have helped with neighbor relations
@Shoredreamer - you know it! Swamp lake is on like donkey kong for Aug 1. I'm watching closely to confirm it opens on July 1 this year:
Real time help needed please
What os the torque spec for the turbo to the t4 flange - thnx. Its the last thing
What os the torque spec for the turbo to the t4 flange - thnx. Its the last thing
- Thread starter
- #72
I do t have a torque wrench except my 500lbs wrench for the front main seal 
- Thread starter
- #73
Oh the irony runs thick - so, I've been driving a lot of miles, and wheeling. Doing lots of passing slow cars on steep grades 
.
A few highlights:
I hit swamp lake with a friend in a stock LR3. We parked his truck about 1/3 of the way though the trail when he'd had enough and continued in my truck. It's always fun using recovery gear.
Last fall I went with @Shoredreamer and crew hit deer valley! A buddy of mine joined with a stock second gen 4-runner too, he drove the truck until the bumpers fell off! He jumped in my truck after that; it was a great excuse to go back to recover his truck and drive the trail both directions!
Then, a few weeks ago on a road trip to Shasta I started to get a rough idle, my truck even shut off at a stop light. What could it be? Did the guy who shuns the torque wrench do something wrong? Anyway, the J-pipe bolts were loose, real loose at the front, one bolt had fallen out. For reference, they are M10 * 1.25 nuts. @NLXTACY - should I use lock tight on these bolts? I just torqued them down extra good this time around and the truck is back running perfect.
I also decided my
job on the bell housing hanger could be the problem. I used a knife to cut the blanket a bit, shimmied the exhaust strap around and mounted things as designed.
Time to get back at it!
.A few highlights:
I hit swamp lake with a friend in a stock LR3. We parked his truck about 1/3 of the way though the trail when he'd had enough and continued in my truck. It's always fun using recovery gear.
Last fall I went with @Shoredreamer and crew hit deer valley! A buddy of mine joined with a stock second gen 4-runner too, he drove the truck until the bumpers fell off! He jumped in my truck after that; it was a great excuse to go back to recover his truck and drive the trail both directions!
Then, a few weeks ago on a road trip to Shasta I started to get a rough idle, my truck even shut off at a stop light. What could it be? Did the guy who shuns the torque wrench do something wrong? Anyway, the J-pipe bolts were loose, real loose at the front, one bolt had fallen out. For reference, they are M10 * 1.25 nuts. @NLXTACY - should I use lock tight on these bolts? I just torqued them down extra good this time around and the truck is back running perfect.
I also decided my
job on the bell housing hanger could be the problem. I used a knife to cut the blanket a bit, shimmied the exhaust strap around and mounted things as designed.
Time to get back at it!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Doh! Torque wrenches are for pussies!
let me know if you need me to send you some hardware.
let me know if you need me to send you some hardware.
I think using locktite will make it so it'll never come lose again. But you'll be cutting it off if it ever needs to come off. There usually hard to come off normally. I think it just needs more torque and its good.
Just tighten the crap out of it by hand. No tq required. Only time I use a TQ wrench is for head bolts and lug nuts.
Just tighten the crap out of it by hand. No tq required. Only time I use a TQ wrench is for head bolts and lug nuts.
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
Loctite doesn't work above 400*F (400*F is how you break loose loctite). You need loc nuts (not nylocs they will melt) or jambnut stud.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I supply proper hardware. It just needs to be touched with a torque wrench
I like these copper lock nuts for exhaust components. The oe toyota stuff works decently well but the copper ones won't corrode/rust even after a bazillion miles, these are very common in the german car world. One of the few things i appreciate from ZEEE germans.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Those came with the GTurbo I got for the 1HD-T
