r2m
Richard
I agree, I need to just drop the coin and do it! AND the Crawl Control too! Been too busy with outings and other "fun" stuff with my rig and the family.
Builds “Ron” Build Thread - 2010 GX460 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Lenny33
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I have the MTS here sitting in a box, I just need to get around to installing it. I am holding off on Crawl Control, I am not sure I see much benefit for what I intend to do with the truck. I'd rather put that money towards a rear locker at this point, but we'll see.
GreenbowCounty
James
What’s up that sleeve of yours that you’re on the fence about CC?
I just see it as a crutch system, it's obnoxiously loud and invasive, we had it in the TRD Pro prior to the GX and I never used it. I'm not saying it doesn't have it's place and it might save you in a certain situation but it definitely doesn't create good habits by forcing you to learn how to drive yourself. Just my two cents, YMMV.
In regards as to what's up my sleeve, well I am definitely planning on a rear locker and regearing at some point, I just have to decide if I am going with ARB's or Eaton Harrop E-Lockers, that will determine the gear ratio as well. Then I tell myself that if I am opening up the front diff to regear it I might as well throw a locker in there too and down the rabbit hole we go.
Should I still love the GX 3-4 years down the road when the warranty is out and I don't get distracted by the next Gen Land Cruiser, 6th Gen 4Runner, next Gen GX replacement (whatever that might be), diesel Gladiator Rubicon or the 4-door Bronco, I could possibly see doing a SAS on the GX and keeping it for the long haul. I know, that's a bit extreme but I think it would make me fall in love with it all over again.
In regards as to what's up my sleeve, well I am definitely planning on a rear locker and regearing at some point, I just have to decide if I am going with ARB's or Eaton Harrop E-Lockers, that will determine the gear ratio as well. Then I tell myself that if I am opening up the front diff to regear it I might as well throw a locker in there too and down the rabbit hole we go.
Should I still love the GX 3-4 years down the road when the warranty is out and I don't get distracted by the next Gen Land Cruiser, 6th Gen 4Runner, next Gen GX replacement (whatever that might be), diesel Gladiator Rubicon or the 4-door Bronco, I could possibly see doing a SAS on the GX and keeping it for the long haul. I know, that's a bit extreme but I think it would make me fall in love with it all over again.
*mental note* stop modifying my rig and wait for Tex to be bored with his (12-16 months) and save YUGE on modifications by purchasing his second hand.
You wouldn't be the first to think that haha. I do have a bad habit of building and off-loading in just a few short years. It's definitely a disease lol.
GreenbowCounty
James
SAS would be plenty of fun and plenty of work if you go that route!
Looking at the Harrop and the ARB for the rear too. On my 3rd Gen 4Runner the Elocker can be activated in 2wd without having to be in 4LO. It got me out of some sticky situations but from an ROI standpoint I struggle with whether or not to put one in my plans. I would definitely go selectable though so again the Harrop E or the ARB. In the little reading I've done, the Harrop seems to be the better of the two...
It's debatable. The Eaton-Harrop doesn't disengage/engage immediately, sometimes it requires a little roll or two. ARB is nice if you already have the compressor, but for me I think it'll come down to whether or not I go 4.56's or 4.88's.
r2m
Richard
If you do an ARB locker, check to see if it is one of the newer ones. I had both front and rear lockers (and re-geared) on my rig and wheel'n in the snow this last winter with friends, I became stuck. When I activated my compressor (the ARB massive twin), and locked both the front and rear, my compressor kept cycling on and off. I had a leak somewhere. One of my buddies said that only one of my front wheels was spinning.
Took back to YotaMasters (who did all the work) and asked them about it. Went on a quick little dirt test and sure enough the front was not locking. Left with them, the next day the called and said that I had a bad locker. This is something that ARB knows about. I don't have time now to look back at my posts, but there is something about the bad lockers that ARB has/had out have a certain color ring which will identify whether it's one of the early bad ones or the newer good ones.
Just ask about it if you go with ARB or look for my posts on the colors that identify the old bad ones from the new good ones.
Other than that, I love them! And they've worked great since. No issues.
- Thread starter
- #130
Transmission drain and fill at 120K - looking pretty black!
- Thread starter
- #131
SSO cover is a go - works well!
- Thread starter
- #132
“Slumming it” with some buddies today. 
Looking good, sir.
Did you decide to go check out those racks?
Did you decide to go check out those racks?
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- #134
lol that bad huh, well now we know
- Thread starter
- #136
Replaced (had my friend’s son replace) the ML sub in the back with a Skar sub. Wow - a lot more bass, but found some more rattles! 
- Thread starter
- #137
Finally pulled the trigger and ordered a Sherpa rack. I will lose my mind with impatience waiting for 8 weeks!
So here is my plan that I am looking g for feedback on.......
I would like to find a RTT that I can put on and take off for camping trips. I don’t want to leave it on the truck at all times. Does this seem like a feasible plan or will I quickly tire of doing that? Has anybody else tried it?
So here is my plan that I am looking g for feedback on.......
I would like to find a RTT that I can put on and take off for camping trips. I don’t want to leave it on the truck at all times. Does this seem like a feasible plan or will I quickly tire of doing that? Has anybody else tried it?
You will likely tire of removing it and installing it unless you only do it a few times a year. If you have a shop/garage with the height to do so, I'd recommend you build a pulley system to drive under and remove it by disconnecting the cross bars it is mounted to and then hoisting it off. Replace the cross bars with two extras for when it's not on the roof and store it on a furniture dolly out of the way, lather rinse repeat. If you resort to putting it on and taking it off by hand you will grow tired of it quickly and you will be more likely to damage the truck, your body or the RTT not to mention you will always need a few extra capable hands to help.
- Thread starter
- #139
Thanks - I am also worried I will get tired of the on and off. My garage door is not high enough to fit my truck in with a RTT and the ceiling is not high enough to hoist and store anyway. I do live in the mountains and I do have property though.....
Perhaps I could fabricate a free standing high point out in my yard to winch it up.
- Thread starter
- #140
Heck, might be as easy as a cherry picker from harbor freight
