Taco
Did you finish your regear? If so any words to share on the finished driving experience? Thanks
Did you finish your regear? If so any words to share on the finished driving experience? Thanks
Builds Rocklander Build
- Thread starter Taco2Cruiser
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- armored budbuilt skid plates
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #82
Listen... there are 3 things women want in a man, tall, dark, and runs some f***ing 4.88 gears!
So, short version, for anyone thinking about 4.88s, regardless of tire size, it's exactly like driving around in 5th gear. So if you feel like you down shift more than you want, or you tow and have to set the trans to 5th, then a re-gear will help.
Long version (you were warned) Transmissions are suppose to shift for efficient use of power from the motor, ours also unlock the torque converter (automatic version of a clutch) to bump up the RMPs to make more power as to not have to go all the way down to the point of dropping a gear. Then there is the aerodynamic factor, this is the real killer on the highway for our modern 200s, drop that wonderful aerodynamic nature of the stock bumper for a winch bumper, and allow all that wind to get caught up in the front fender wheels, you just drastically increased drag. Increase the distance from the bottom of the truck to the ground with a lift, increased drag. Add a roof rack, maybe even a RTT, have a rear bumper with tire carrier and jerry cans, all increasing drag. Off road tire weight is bad enough, then your are left with the increase in diameter, that's what people focus on, but in my opinion, it's not a big deal unless you are jumping over 5" in size, its the other things that get you. A gear calculator is a good place to start, but it doesn't take into account all the other things I talked about. And not to talk experience, but I've re-geared a lot of different vehicles, and if you just go off a rear calculator, you're wasting your money on a lost opportunity.
So for me, I can't stand when the trans has to drop to 5th or unlock the torque converter when just going up the small incline. It builds massive amounts of heat in the trans and is the same as driving down the highway with your foot half on the clutch, not a good idea. It's good for a stock truck with the computer thinking it will only last a short while, but on modified trucks, the TC will just hang out unlocked all day, pushing temperature over 200 degrees. I understand a mountain road will require me to shift, but I should be able to go up and down a tiny hill and stay locked in 6th for reliability reasons. With just a 33 inch tire, bumper, RTT, and a normal lift, on any road outside of flat Florida one, I couldn't stay in 6th for very long making it worthless. I averaged 11.7 MPG highway on the stock 3.90 gears (2008-2015 200s) because I was shifting so much, with 4.88s I'm at a solid 13 mpg on highway. While I wouldn't recommend diff gear to do anything for you off road, a 4.88 does make 1st gear low range sooooooo much better. Stock crawl ratio is 34:1, with 4.88s its 43:1. For comparison an automatic Jeep Wrangler Rubicon is 46:1.
Now for when people with '16+ 200 start to modify, it will be even a bigger deal, the 8th gear is .67 where the 6 speed's 6th gear is .58 so plus to the 8 speed, but the diff gear on a '16 are down to 3.30. Wow, so once bumpers, lift, and tires goes on a '16+, that transmission will probably never see 8th gear, so why not move the ratio band down to take use of everything?
nice job - how many hours would you say you had in the total gear swap
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #84
Front diff removal and installation was about 3 hours (had a CV axle get stuck on the half shaft off the passenger side)
Rear diff removal and installation was just over an hour.
Break in took me a couple weeks.
man i wish i had your knowledge - I've got the i aint scared attitude already
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #86
"Bring more experience, and bring less equipment"
Build treads are a weird topic. The word "build" itself is like the word performance, it doesn't mean anything anymore because it has too many definitions from too many people with too many backgrounds.
So for me, my build, is mine. It's not going to work for everyone, and cost will always dictate what I can do. I don't have the money to take a brand new 200 to a shop and say build me something that looks cool and here is $20k. I can though pull off buying a used 200 for $35k, and think very hard about what I need most, based on my driving style (but I do have a very good long time friend in the off-road industry helping me on this one.) How I do things also takes into account my physical ability. I'm very athletic and tall. I'm willing to deal with lifting things some won't in exchange for cost saving. I've been doing it for decades so that's kinda easy. But then I can move that cost savings to something that my experience says I need.
So why I am I saying all this? Because up till now, this thread is basic. Every 200 has a lift, a different tire, maybe an front bumper, and sliders. Nothing special, not much building, just buying and bolting on. But now I'm at the point where I depart from most, and everything I just mentioned is to emphasize that this is not needed by 99% of 200 owners. So for those wanting to learn from others and still figuring what they want their 200 to be, don't do what I'm doing, unless you are using your 200 like I am. It will be a waste of money and a weight penalty with a sacrifice of convienence i.e. Don't have the money or payload left for drawers and things like that.
I love land cruisers, just their build quality alone blows me away every time I tear into one, yet I cannot deny that deep down, I'm a rock crawler. I like hard trails that others can't do, I like going places others are afraid to go, because for me, that my view of freedom. It's not what's right, it's just what's right for me. Yet I would absolutely not think anything negative of the person not wanting to push their 4x4, it's a fun thing, not a competition.
So right now, a real armored belly is being designed and built. This isn't ARB skid plate junk, this is real skids, able to take regular abuse and not transfer impact load to the drivetrain (like the ARBs do). Also reenforcing key frame and axle points from the rocks.
Then there is the rear bar. It's going to be high clearance, with underneath protection, angles to keep rocks away from the quarter panels, but then it still will carry a spare, 2-3 Scepters and a propane tank. Finally, got an idea to utilize a space that is offen forgotten about because of complexity.
Then, building will stop for a while, the point is to adventure, the cruiser is a tool, not the end goal. Money is going to always be better used to afford the fuel and time off to enjoy the world.
Build treads are a weird topic. The word "build" itself is like the word performance, it doesn't mean anything anymore because it has too many definitions from too many people with too many backgrounds.
So for me, my build, is mine. It's not going to work for everyone, and cost will always dictate what I can do. I don't have the money to take a brand new 200 to a shop and say build me something that looks cool and here is $20k. I can though pull off buying a used 200 for $35k, and think very hard about what I need most, based on my driving style (but I do have a very good long time friend in the off-road industry helping me on this one.) How I do things also takes into account my physical ability. I'm very athletic and tall. I'm willing to deal with lifting things some won't in exchange for cost saving. I've been doing it for decades so that's kinda easy. But then I can move that cost savings to something that my experience says I need.
So why I am I saying all this? Because up till now, this thread is basic. Every 200 has a lift, a different tire, maybe an front bumper, and sliders. Nothing special, not much building, just buying and bolting on. But now I'm at the point where I depart from most, and everything I just mentioned is to emphasize that this is not needed by 99% of 200 owners. So for those wanting to learn from others and still figuring what they want their 200 to be, don't do what I'm doing, unless you are using your 200 like I am. It will be a waste of money and a weight penalty with a sacrifice of convienence i.e. Don't have the money or payload left for drawers and things like that.
I love land cruisers, just their build quality alone blows me away every time I tear into one, yet I cannot deny that deep down, I'm a rock crawler. I like hard trails that others can't do, I like going places others are afraid to go, because for me, that my view of freedom. It's not what's right, it's just what's right for me. Yet I would absolutely not think anything negative of the person not wanting to push their 4x4, it's a fun thing, not a competition.
So right now, a real armored belly is being designed and built. This isn't ARB skid plate junk, this is real skids, able to take regular abuse and not transfer impact load to the drivetrain (like the ARBs do). Also reenforcing key frame and axle points from the rocks.
Then there is the rear bar. It's going to be high clearance, with underneath protection, angles to keep rocks away from the quarter panels, but then it still will carry a spare, 2-3 Scepters and a propane tank. Finally, got an idea to utilize a space that is offen forgotten about because of complexity.
Then, building will stop for a while, the point is to adventure, the cruiser is a tool, not the end goal. Money is going to always be better used to afford the fuel and time off to enjoy the world.
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Taco
Couldn't agree with you more. As someone else who comes from rock crawlers and other capable trucks I have had a hard time with my 200 not just wanting to build it to wheel. I haven't posted my "build thread" and while I do not have the time to build it myself per say I am like you with the idea drive line first. The 200 is a great platform to start with. Part of the reason I went with the 200 is because if I had gone with a jeep the first thing I would have done would have been to rip out the axles and put 60s under it. It's hard to justify the money but I love being able to push a rig and I don't like backing down from an obstacle. Hopefully mine with 4.88s and lockers will go where I want it to and not have to replace everything like you do in a jeep. My only regret is I don't have the shop space or time to do a lot of the work myself (nature of my job, but its a trade off as it allows me to afford a 200 so).
Couldn't agree with you more. As someone else who comes from rock crawlers and other capable trucks I have had a hard time with my 200 not just wanting to build it to wheel. I haven't posted my "build thread" and while I do not have the time to build it myself per say I am like you with the idea drive line first. The 200 is a great platform to start with. Part of the reason I went with the 200 is because if I had gone with a jeep the first thing I would have done would have been to rip out the axles and put 60s under it. It's hard to justify the money but I love being able to push a rig and I don't like backing down from an obstacle. Hopefully mine with 4.88s and lockers will go where I want it to and not have to replace everything like you do in a jeep. My only regret is I don't have the shop space or time to do a lot of the work myself (nature of my job, but its a trade off as it allows me to afford a 200 so).
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #88
While it is for me, I wanted to show my support for the mud community, as I have gotten so much great information and met some great friends here. I have another long time friend, Bud of BudBuilt. He makes the best Toyota Skid plates out there. I've destroyed a lot of armor over the years, but Bud's stuff doesn't budge, but it also distributes load across a massive area. I guess it's good when a mechanical industrial engineer of 30 years decides to take his 30+ years of rock crawling experience and begins making parts for the last 10 years.
I also wanted to support him, because he can bring a real set of plates to the market, for everyone. Plates that don't require us to drop a plate to change your oil filter, plates that don't continue to transfer impact load to our drivetrains.
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I've been a long fan of Bud's so I'm excited he's making some skids for us. Let me know when he wants my credit card. 
I had Bud Built "beefy" skids on my Tundra. They were awesome, and took a pounding. Love if Bud would build some bolt-on skids for the 200. I'd love a strong engine skid that would allow oil/filter removal without removing the entire skid too.
So we just contact him directly I presume???? Sounds great.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #93
Oh yea, Bud is a busy guy (company growing pains) but will always call you back. But again, the design is still being tweaked, plus it needs to be checked by laser to be able to duplicate reliably. Your choice of metal also, I'm probably going to run stainless steel again.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #94
Reinforced the cam tabs with Total Chaos tundra 1/4" plates. The only piece of the 200 frame I have seen fail. I also had 3 of the 8 shear off on my FJ, so I felt, for me, it was a quick/cheap fix to a potential problem.
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #95
While prepping the taco truck for Lone Star Jamboree, I decided to replace the front lower control arm ball joints. The truck had about 85,000 miles before I bought and lifted it. The boots didn't like the change in angle and released their grease, so instead of buying new control arms for $600, I'm going to give these centric replacement ball joints a chance. They cost $160 for both and made in Japan. If you have Stop Tech stuff, this is the same company.
Side note, the arms did require heat and my biggest impact air gun to press out the ball joints, in case anyone is wanting to do it also.
I usually don't have good results with non Toyota joints, so I'll let yea know how these turn out.
Side note, the arms did require heat and my biggest impact air gun to press out the ball joints, in case anyone is wanting to do it also.
I usually don't have good results with non Toyota joints, so I'll let yea know how these turn out.
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Subscribed!
One hell of a build Taco...thus far. I like your 'build' philosophy, something that I want to emulate...once I have a 200 in my hot greedy hands.
One hell of a build Taco...thus far. I like your 'build' philosophy, something that I want to emulate...once I have a 200 in my hot greedy hands.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #97
Thanks for the kind words brother, and when you get you're 200, I'd love to see what you do with it.
What is it that 'they' say...imitation is the best form of flattery.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #99
I've never been much of a fan of yellow lenses on cars. So for my ARB indicators, I bought some clear lenses from Gamiviti.
But like most off-road products, I was let down. This time because they are not even close to the same size. The Gamiviti lens is for the older style indicators, not the newer style that also has a running lamp.
Okay... well... I'm used to this. Guess I'll just figure it out. Then when I was looking at the ARBs indicator lens, I realized it is a simple amber lens with a very small glued point holding it to the main clean lens. So I popped it off with great ease.
Then noticed the small glued point left a little yellowing. So a little work with a dremel and a stainless steel wire brush. Cleaned it off quite nice for a smooth, clear shine.
Now, I have had an amber Putco LED bulb that came from my FJs ARB bar, so loosing the amber lense didn't change the illuminated look. In fact, it is a little brighter and clearer now.
But like most off-road products, I was let down. This time because they are not even close to the same size. The Gamiviti lens is for the older style indicators, not the newer style that also has a running lamp.
Okay... well... I'm used to this. Guess I'll just figure it out. Then when I was looking at the ARBs indicator lens, I realized it is a simple amber lens with a very small glued point holding it to the main clean lens. So I popped it off with great ease.
Then noticed the small glued point left a little yellowing. So a little work with a dremel and a stainless steel wire brush. Cleaned it off quite nice for a smooth, clear shine.
Now, I have had an amber Putco LED bulb that came from my FJs ARB bar, so loosing the amber lense didn't change the illuminated look. In fact, it is a little brighter and clearer now.
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #100
I'll start this post out with saying there is nothing wrong with the stock rear lower control arm. It's strong, it allows for flex just fine, really no reason to switch it out. Unless you bend it.
And that's what I though. The left side had a deep rock scar and it looked curved when on the truck, so I bought some SPC control arms from Jegs for $215 to my door, not bad.
I should of however put a strait edge on the arms because it must of been an optical illusion because they are straighter than Clint Eastwood.
Dang, also once I had the stock arm out, and weighted it with the SPC, they came out to the same. So that would lead me to believe
the stock arms are also 3/16" thick, which would explain their ability to take such a hit.
So I short, save your money on rear lower control arms. There isn't any benefit to be gained.
And that's what I though. The left side had a deep rock scar and it looked curved when on the truck, so I bought some SPC control arms from Jegs for $215 to my door, not bad.
I should of however put a strait edge on the arms because it must of been an optical illusion because they are straighter than Clint Eastwood.
Dang, also once I had the stock arm out, and weighted it with the SPC, they came out to the same. So that would lead me to believe
the stock arms are also 3/16" thick, which would explain their ability to take such a hit.
So I short, save your money on rear lower control arms. There isn't any benefit to be gained.
