RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Finally got around to mounting/wiring up my Roadvision lights. Thanks for everyone who posted their wiring diagrams. Also ended up using the Curt 7-pin.

PXL_20221230_170717440.jpg
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a highly durable (and ideally self-sticky) "pad" to put between the "stop" for the arms and the bumper base? I had stuck some UHMW tape in between but vibration from the arms seemed to rub off the top coat of the paint. I tried some (very) sticky foam which compressed but that seems to have mostly rubbed away and taken some of the paint with it. I'll sand and repaint but before doing so I'd like to find a durable solution for this.

(BTW I put rubber feet on the bottom of the arms by the latch to reduce flex, though even there I found the paint slowly wearing away due to the constant rubbing of the rubber. The tire and jerry carrier (when full of water) still vibrate over bumps in the road. I put some UHMW tape in that spot but I assume that will wear pretty quickly. I could try some thicker UHMW I have but being plastic I assume it'll eventually wear regardless)

View attachment 3087240
 
I'm still just using a couple pieces of thin, durable plastic which I essentially just glued to the bumper. It's only ben a few months but so far they're holding up. I don't love the look, but since I painted my bumper with POR15 it's easy enough to remove, sand, and repaint those 2x2 spots once winter is over if anyone has a better recommendation.
 
Hello Bumper Battallion. Does anyone have the specs on the bolts that fastern the main RLC brackets to the underside of the frame? I'm cleaing up a poorly installed PO job in which those forward extensions were cut off, and all four bolts on the underside of the frame are missing. (pictured slightly out of focus, top, center of this image). Thank you.

1673286018323.png
 
I ended up finding an alternative to the Curt 7-way hitch plug that I'm happy with so far. Last weekend I cut the hole (2") in the bumper and installed the Curt 7-way plug 1st. I went very high up on the bumper to make sure the wires coming out the back could go over the hitch reciever without a sharp bend. My 1st attempt was every so slightly crooked, and it looked a little more bulky/noticeable than I liked. I didn't do the wiring yet, just the connector in the bumper. I then saw my buddy's new Dissent bumpers he just got installed and his came with a more minimal connector which I like better. The hole I had cut was up so high I decided to try this alternative connector I'd bought on amazon. It is just regular 7-way extension both ends, so no wiring or cable sleeve or anything else needed for the install. Only things I had to buy was the 2" hole bit, and just 4 stainless bolts/nuts/flat and split washers. It worked great. Cleared the hitch receiver no problem and had more than enough length to attach to my existing truck 7-way which i had bolted higher up and back previously.

Amazon product ASIN B083LRJSHR
IMG_9488.jpeg
IMG_9489.jpeg
IMG_9490.jpeg


If anybody is wondering why I crammed it right next to the parking sensor, I wanted to preserve that flat area to the right to eventually install my WitsEnd Anderson/air chuck bracket, and thats the only spot that'll fit. Currently I have it attached to the inside of the hitch receiver. It's tucked up and out of the way, but the part I don't like is if I'm towing my power cable would still go out from under the bumper risking a cable pinch (as me how i know)

 
Hello Bumper Battallion. Does anyone have the specs on the bolts that fastern the main RLC brackets to the underside of the frame? I'm cleaing up a poorly installed PO job in which those forward extensions were cut off, and all four bolts on the underside of the frame are missing. (pictured slightly out of focus, top, center of this image). Thank you.

View attachment 3214618
They are the factory bolts, so check the partsouq diagrams and I bet there's a part #.
 
I ended up finding an alternative to the Curt 7-way hitch plug that I'm happy with so far. Last weekend I cut the hole (2") in the bumper and installed the Curt 7-way plug 1st. I went very high up on the bumper to make sure the wires coming out the back could go over the hitch reciever without a sharp bend. My 1st attempt was every so slightly crooked, and it looked a little more bulky/noticeable than I liked. I didn't do the wiring yet, just the connector in the bumper. I then saw my buddy's new Dissent bumpers he just got installed and his came with a more minimal connector which I like better. The hole I had cut was up so high I decided to try this alternative connector I'd bought on amazon. It is just regular 7-way extension both ends, so no wiring or cable sleeve or anything else needed for the install. Only things I had to buy was the 2" hole bit, and just 4 stainless bolts/nuts/flat and split washers. It worked great. Cleared the hitch receiver no problem and had more than enough length to attach to my existing truck 7-way which i had bolted higher up and back previously.

Amazon product ASIN B083LRJSHR
View attachment 3215700View attachment 3215701View attachment 3215702

If anybody is wondering why I crammed it right next to the parking sensor, I wanted to preserve that flat area to the right to eventually install my WitsEnd Anderson/air chuck bracket, and thats the only spot that'll fit. Currently I have it attached to the inside of the hitch receiver. It's tucked up and out of the way, but the part I don't like is if I'm towing my power cable would still go out from under the bumper risking a cable pinch (as me how i know)

Nice

Could you mount the air chuck bracket underneath the jerry can basket, or possibly to the swing arm, so it wouldn't be sticking out of the bumper? Under the basket is what I did with my backup camera

1655153601322-png.3033234
 
Nice

Could you mount the air chuck bracket underneath the jerry can basket, or possibly to the swing arm, so it wouldn't be sticking out of the bumper? Under the basket is what I did with my backup camera

1655153601322-png.3033234
Nice camera relocation. Don't know why but I'd never even considered coming out over the top of the bumper like that. That's a good idea also for my Anderson/Air thingy. I'll play around and see how that'd work. I'd rather not cut any additional holes in my bumber so something along these lines may be the ticket. Thanks for the tip.

Side note (kinda), Can you tell me the wire routing and what all was needed/involved in your camera re-location? I currently have a Bluetooth solar backup camera on the license plate frame of my jerry basket, but I'd still like to get the factory camera in a better location. Did you have to build a bracket of some sort to attach it to the jerry basket? Also what did you cover up the space left where the factory camera came out? Let me know, thanks
 
Nice camera relocation. Don't know why but I'd never even considered coming out over the top of the bumper like that. That's a good idea also for my Anderson/Air thingy. I'll play around and see how that'd work. I'd rather not cut any additional holes in my bumber so something along these lines may be the ticket. Thanks for the tip.

Side note (kinda), Can you tell me the wire routing and what all was needed/involved in your camera re-location? I currently have a Bluetooth solar backup camera on the license plate frame of my jerry basket, but I'd still like to get the factory camera in a better location. Did you have to build a bracket of some sort to attach it to the jerry basket? Also what did you cover up the space left where the factory camera came out? Let me know, thanks
Relocating the factory camera was a PITFA.

You have to pull the trunk interior panels off, cut the end off the camera wiring harness, splice in new wires, route the wiring up through the grommet (huge PITA) then all the way around the trunk and down through the wheel well grommet. You need shielded CAT5 cable for the wiring.

I mounted the camera to a small (3x5) plastic box I got off Amazon, ran the wire into that and sealed it up with a bunch of RTV. I don't love it, but it works OK. I was trying to get it close to the end of the basket, but I may shift it back closer to the bumper in the future as I get a LOT of road salt/dirt/dust/etc on it in the city, particularly when it's raining
 
Relocating the factory camera was a PITFA.

You have to pull the trunk interior panels off, cut the end off the camera wiring harness, splice in new wires, route the wiring up through the grommet (huge PITA) then all the way around the trunk and down through the wheel well grommet. You need shielded CAT5 cable for the wiring.

I mounted the camera to a small (3x5) plastic box I got off Amazon, ran the wire into that and sealed it up with a bunch of RTV. I don't love it, but it works OK. I was trying to get it close to the end of the basket, but I may shift it back closer to the bumper in the future as I get a LOT of road salt/dirt/dust/etc on it in the city, particularly when it's raining
Yeah that sounds like a PITA indeed. Maybe I'll shelf that idea, the Costco Bluetooth camera works good enough. Much higher resolution than the factory camera and I can activate even when I'm not in reverse. Con's are it's off-center, I have to have the screen on the far right of my dashboard, and it doesn't automatically turn on when in reverse.

I recently added a hardshell RTT to my roof though which does have some new wiring for the solar and tent lights, so I'll consider doing the backup camera when I pull all the hatch trim to run those wires down.
 
Yeah that sounds like a PITA indeed. Maybe I'll shelf that idea, the Costco Bluetooth camera works good enough. Much higher resolution than the factory camera and I can activate even when I'm not in reverse. Con's are it's off-center, I have to have the screen on the far right of my dashboard, and it doesn't automatically turn on when in reverse.

I recently added a hardshell RTT to my roof though which does have some new wiring for the solar and tent lights, so I'll consider doing the backup camera when I pull all the hatch trim to run those wires down.
FWIW the factory camera is off center even in its correct location. It's worse when mounted under the basket.

I'd totally use the Costco option if I had an aftermarket Tesla screen in my truck instead of the factory nav
 
I recently added a hardshell RTT to my roof though which does have some new wiring for the solar and tent lights, so I'll consider doing the backup camera when I pull all the hatch trim to run those wires down.
If you do extend the wires, test it before assembling. I had to ground the cable shield to the - wire in the harness or else the image was all sorts of h0rked up
 
any four conductor twisted wire would work for extending the 2009 LX camera, wire carries +, -, sig +, sig -. 20g big enough.
 
any four conductor twisted wire would work for extending the 2009 LX camera, wire carries +, -, sig +, sig -. 20g big enough.
Probably true though I found if mine wasn’t shielded the video was degraded when I tested some extra thermostat wire I had lying around, hence the shielded cat5
 
I didn’t have the shielding issue, but I think I used shielded wire. So that explains it. I think I also used solid copper thermostat wire or similar, and it was a super PITA in the grommet, thus why I suggest stranded wire.
 
Last edited:
LIght cutouts for a amber/red/white combo light is a good idea . . .
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom