Ring, Pinion and AirlockersInstall - Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hi csd-
I see conflicting things going on there......you have a front 9.5"....you said it was an 89 FJ62 3rd......Sierra Gears which are good gears.....you should see a good pattern with .055~.060".

First, get about 10~20 INCH/POUNDS on the pinion preload alone.....then install the main center carrier and crank some Carrier Bearing PreLoad CBPL in there and adjust your backlash to the same .006" you originally used.

You don't really have to measure the total preload but you need need some "tightness" on the carrier bearings for the paint test. After your wheel adjusters are set to your satisfaction then tap on the sides of the bearing caps to "equalize" the tensions on both carrier bearings and then verify your backlash again to make sure it has not changed drastically.

Here's the simple way to get a good readable pattern......paint 3 teeth....then hold pinion flange with a rag to offer some resistance....then turn the ring gear with a 19mm wrench. Wipe it back and forth 3 or 4 times holding plenty of tension on the rag. You will get the best possible wipe and pattern presentation that way.

I think Sierra gears like 007 backlash minimum....it's scribed on the ring gear.


Ken
Thanks, this is a 3rd on my rearend. It’s a fj80 FF axle.
 
I see scrape marks on your ring gear.....don't wedge screwdrivers or wrenches up against the ring in an attempt to "offer resistance" for a pattern check. If your carrier bearings don't have strong preloads then the ring gear will deflect and screw up your painted pattern look. I think that is why your patterns are all over the board.

Use the "Rag on flange" method.
Yea I will try that method with a rag on the flange to five resistance.
 
Leather glove works for drag also.. you are gettng there,

once you get the pattern ...for preload on the carrier i use the zuk method made a tool and do 100 ft lbs, for preload on the pinion i use solid spacers dont like crush sleeves, (under heavy load they loose preload). a good inch pound torque wrench is your friend for proper bearing preload...
 
Updates

Having 20 ft lbs of torque on the pinion, using a rag to hold the flange and a wrench (used socket with breaker bar as the air locker made the wrench a hard fit) to turn the ring worked great for a pattern. I just painted 3 teeth. I still think I’m shallow. I also recheck the backlash after tapping the caps.

See pics and comment, .062 shim stack under racer.

Also the pattern is not centered yet.

Thoughts?

Thanks again as now have a much better contact pattern

82253480-B733-41CD-BA42-21A9C789DBC1.webp


30736494-C392-4016-B251-A6B872AE8B58.webp
 
That's easier to read for sure :) Agreed on the shallow. I bet 072 gets it real close.....which is an unusual shim for a 9.5".
Ken

ps----you said 20 ft/lb......hope you meant 20 inch/pounds .


Yes....with the locker , the wrenches generally don't fit very well. I had to grind and notch the corners on a sacrificial wrench to get full bite.
 
So I went up to .72 but still was too shallow so went way up, 1.05.

Backlash at .006 (6-10 in the specs for the kit) after a few taps of the caps.

~22 INCH Pounds on the preload.

Wrech to turn and cloth glove to hold

Here is the best pattern thus far.

Do you think I’m good or need to be a butt hair deeper?

Looks aligned on coast and drive now from toe to heal.

15FB835E-2FD9-4067-B7EA-3C77A9EDAFF8.webp


F57144AC-6152-4088-8A0C-833D39B149CD.webp


3B308AD1-FE5C-42D1-BCD8-9ECF042B46C1.webp
 
If the gear ratio does not change shim thickness then could I not just reuse the old shim under the pinion bearing?
Why am I even messing with these shims behind the race....

I’m at 1.05 and if it still needs to be deeper should I not try 1.3 with the old shim?
 
That looks real good...
 
195 k13 SG TOYLC-488 3.138 .007

Yes I have been using metric on my gauge.

So the original shim is 1.3. Should I just resuse it an check the pattern? If pattern is good can I just use the old shim?

See pic

50D4DD0E-8F6B-4F32-9E19-AFE756C880AA.webp
 
Last edited:
So here we are again. I got to think this is good, thoughts?

1.28 mm stacked shims (did not reuse old shim, could not get my pulled under the pinion pearing without fear of damaging the bearing cage)


12 lbs preload with no crush sleeve

.007 BL

Wrench with rag turn

B974752B-2F29-482B-91AA-9C34286CA4EF.webp


E09B3EB7-17FE-483B-9DD9-6831A4515CC4.webp
 
Last edited:
This might be a dumb questions but I assume I can drive my fj40 with different gears in each diff as long as I keep the front diff not in 4wd.

I want to break in the back before I start the front swap
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom