Ring, Pinion and AirlockersInstall - Questions (1 Viewer)

[gearinstalls.com]

csd1982-
That is dead nuts on I can't believe you got the drive AND coast pattern centered. That doesn't happen all the time. The gears are often off a smidge from the factory and usually can't do much to correct 'em. Run it.
ZUK

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Yes. With the manual hubs and part time, you can regear just the rear and break them in.

 

[csd1982]

First, thanks RustyNailJustin and ZUK for support on this thread. Here is a recap from a 1st time ring and pinion install noob.

On top of all the points I made in my first post, in this thread, the following was critical for me to know (learned in this thread):

The ring and pinion ratio does not change the pinion shim thickness. Therefore when stacking shims make sure to start with the same thickness of the shim that was under the pinion head. Or just use the same shim from the original pinion and put onto the new pinion.

The shims that come with the install kit that go under the pinion racer are not reusable. When you are trying to set pinion depth and removing the racer to re-stack shims the shims get ruined. I called West Coast Differential for extra shim kit.

There must be some pre-load on the pinion to check gear pattern. 10-15 inch pound was critical for this as ZUK suggested, not using the crushsleeve.

Only 3 teeth need to be painted on the ring to check pattern. I liked ACDelco gear marking compound as I thought it was better to pick up a pattern than what came in the install kit.

There needs to be resistance on the ring and pinion to pickup the pattern. The suggestion to hold the flange with a rag or leather glove worked great. But don't turn the flange just hold it secure. The suggestion to use a wrench or socket to turn the ring gear was best. DONT jam a screw driver between the ring gear and diff case as it did nothing for me. Directions on this are in the link below.


Also this was a good read: G2 Gear Install FZJ80

 

[csd1982]

Well now on to crush sleeve. Set a fixture like ZUK and used a pipe over my breaker bar.

Stripped two pinion nuts? WTF, anyone seen this happen?

 

[gearinstalls.com]

hehe.....I have seen that on the small 7.5" ring/pinions....but not on the 9.5" or 8". I sent you a pm just now csd1982.

The problem you are having is friction. Thank God the threads on the pinion are much tougher than the nuts.

2 trouble areas.....Friction between the threads and also where the nut contacts the hardened steel washer. The flange style nuts have that friction issue too. Coat the pinion threads and bottom of nut with aluminum based anti-seize and I bet you can crush it with 1 or 2 fingers
Ken ZUK

 

[csd1982]

hehe.....I have seen that on the small 7.5" ring/pinions....but not on the 9.5" or 8". I sent you a pm just now csd1982.

The problem you are having is friction. Thank God the threads on the pinion are much tougher than the nuts.

2 trouble areas.....Friction between the threads and also where the nut contacts the hardened steel washer. The flange style nuts have that friction issue too. Coat the pinion threads and bottom of nut with aluminum based anti-seize and I bet you can crush it with 1 or 2 fingers
Ken ZUK

So this seems to be my issue:



After thrashing 3 pinion nuts I took the setup out. Was going to use my press to start the crush sleeve while everything was setup on the pinion.

I got the pinion bearing down on the pinion with the press but it eventually was impossible to keep pressing the press down. I noticed the crush sleeve was not compressing.

After further investigation the pinion bearing can’t go down any farther and it is not in contact with the crush sleeve.

There are no shims in my Sierra kit to make the fit snug.

Ever seen this?

I think if I used the origin shim under the pinion gear bearing for pinion depth I would not have this issue. However I’m tuned in on the pattern now and dont wan’t to redo all that.



Thoughts?

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Hi csd1982,
The you tube video won't play. You must have had a trump shirt or red cap on and you tube pulled it

Never heard of an outer pinion bearing that won't go on fully. Does the ring gear have Richmond designators on it.?
Ken

 

[csd1982]

Hi csd1982,
The you tube video won't play. You must have had a trump shirt or red cap on and you tube pulled it

Never heard of an outer pinion bearing that won't go on fully. Does the ring gear have Richmond designators on it.?
Ken

I changed my youtube account to the right one. Edited my post.

haha, would not surprise me, brutal.

The gears are by Sierra and bought from Cruiser Outfitters. I will have to go check if they are not actually Sierra

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Something else is going on. The pinion shim is designed to be behind the pinion head. Measure the length of the crush sleeve . A used one will be about 1.858" and a new one will be about 1.940"

 

[gearinstalls.com]

That bearing is on upside down....but you knew that.

So, without the crush sleeve in place, you can tighten the nut enough to get 10 in/lb PPL for the paint test?

 

[csd1982]

That bearing is on upside down....but you knew that.

So, without the crush sleeve in place, you can tighten the nut enough to get 10 in/lb PPL for the paint test?

New

Used

 

[gearinstalls.com]

ohhhh....I was thinking front 8" hi-pinion like the 80 series. Your front is also the 9.5". Your original shim that was under the pinion race is only about .020" thick.....so putting that behind the pinion head like you did is no big deal. So your post is saying that the outer pinion bearing "stops" prematurely before even hitting the crush sleeve? Something is being missed.

The old crush was with oem bearings and the 2.099" length agrees with that.....the after-market bearings are slightly different and the final crush length will be about 2.137" so that means you need to crush it another .065" or so.....

 

[csd1982]

ohhhh....I was thinking front 8" hi-pinion like the 80 series. Your front is also the 9.5". Your original shim that was under the pinion race is only about .020" thick.....so putting that behind the pinion head like you did is no big deal. So your post is saying that the outer pinion bearing "stops" prematurely before even hitting the crush sleeve? Something is being missed.

I’m going to take it apart now and do some more looking

Maybe it’s me but not sure why I’ve blown 3 nuts

As always thanks so much

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Let me rephrase....your front FJ60 is similar to mine....it required about .054" behind the head and that's the same place the factory puts it.

 

[gearinstalls.com]

So you blew 3 nuts.....What style of nut? Flange style nut or the regular nut that has to be used with a hardened thick washer?

 

[csd1982]

So you blew 3 nuts.....What style of nut? Flange style nut or the regular nut that has to be used with a hardened thick washer?

So user error on the fit of the crush sleeve. My press setup had an interfierence.

Crush the sleev a bit to start and then was able to torque he pinion nut down.

I do have a washer under the pinion but but maybe with this style nut it’s not needed.

This is still for the rear fj80 diff. Will do the front/fj62 next and made note of your comment.

Here is the style nut I used. I probably don’t need a washer...?

 

[gearinstalls.com]

No washer with that style.

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Use this anti-seize and it will start crushing at 140 ft/lb as I have measured it numerous times before.


View media item 74641

 

[csd1982]

Use this anti-seize and it will start crushing at 140 ft/lb as I have measured it numerous times before.


View media item 74641

All setup now.

Thanks!

 

[csd1982]

Hi All,

After 2 years I found time to regear and add my front locker. Tells you how much time I get to use my rig...such is life with a 17 month old and 3.5 year old, no complaints!

Looking for input on the pattern. From what I can tell it’s good. Centered face to flank from my view but a bit toward the heel on the drive and toe on the coast. Thoughts?