I honestly do not know rt now i think around 20 -25 if you want to go send me a email and i can add you to the email .
RHD JDM mall crawler (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Oregon trail
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- #62
With the roof all welded, painted and headliner in i had a big sheet of thick plastic I through over the cage I then raised the cage into its final position. I tack welded it into the floor and a few other spots to keep it in place. after that I took some time and trimmed the plastic in and taped it. I won’t be lowering the cage again so I’m trying to protect the headliner.
Since the plan now is to fully attach the cage to the frame and the body I decided to go ahead and throw some dimple die body tie ins in.
I then went to the C pillar down bars. I’ve mostly seen people run these into the tops of the rear fenders. I’m not really a fan of that although it’s hard to do anything else. I ultimately bent the tube around the fender and strait down into the frame. But I wanted to support that bend. I do have a 1/4 inch plate on the fender and a tube going into that otherwise it would be a huge week spot. Once I get fhe X bracing in I may gusset this area as well. I want to direct most the force into the frame. In the event of a rollover.
Since the plan now is to fully attach the cage to the frame and the body I decided to go ahead and throw some dimple die body tie ins in.
I then went to the C pillar down bars. I’ve mostly seen people run these into the tops of the rear fenders. I’m not really a fan of that although it’s hard to do anything else. I ultimately bent the tube around the fender and strait down into the frame. But I wanted to support that bend. I do have a 1/4 inch plate on the fender and a tube going into that otherwise it would be a huge week spot. Once I get fhe X bracing in I may gusset this area as well. I want to direct most the force into the frame. In the event of a rollover.
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- #63
Well I’ve been working hard since I have trade show all next week in Vegas and really my work schedule will be picking up significantly which will make progress slower. I finished up the rear area and C pillar besides a seatbelt bar. The rear seats won’t have harnesses for now since the kids are all still in car seats but once they get out of those they will
I also added a bit more support for the C pillar where it makes that bend around the fenders. One day that will likely all get cut out and tub the rear but that’s a project for another time.
Then I did dimple die body tie ins in the A pillars and the C pillar roof area tie ins can be seen in the previous image.
I also added a bit more support for the C pillar where it makes that bend around the fenders. One day that will likely all get cut out and tub the rear but that’s a project for another time.
Then I did dimple die body tie ins in the A pillars and the C pillar roof area tie ins can be seen in the previous image.
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- #64
So after that I moved onto fitting the dash. I trimmed it to fit with the new tubes. There are several mounting spots no longer there so it’ll be a challenger to truly mount the dash back in but I’ll figure something out.
I then moved into skinning the dash in automotive seat vinyl. So far I’m really loving the appearance. Everything will eventually be wrapped or painted.
I then moved into skinning the dash in automotive seat vinyl. So far I’m really loving the appearance. Everything will eventually be wrapped or painted.
Looking great
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- #66
For frame tie in I’m building them off the sliders and and I’m tying those into the body. My rockers were rusted so I also did the rocker chop.
I went with a kick out but a gentle one. The old coastal sliders were abrupt enough they caught on rocks and were an issue. I was actually considering buildikg boat side sliders. But after a couple trips through the rubicon I seen how much of a Benifit kick outs were. I hadn’t used them to pivot off rocks much before then. . I may have overbuilt all this a tad.
Frame plates are 1/4 plate. A pillar is over built having 2 tubes supporting and gusseting it the B pillar had a tube running from the slider to the frame with a slight upward bend to create a grown then a long gusset supporting the whole thing. Then all this is again welded into the body. Then the middle and very back has a tube supporting the slider. I was a bit paranoid of having anything bend causing the door not to open when I only have .5 inch clearance. Should be more than stout.
I went with a kick out but a gentle one. The old coastal sliders were abrupt enough they caught on rocks and were an issue. I was actually considering buildikg boat side sliders. But after a couple trips through the rubicon I seen how much of a Benifit kick outs were. I hadn’t used them to pivot off rocks much before then. . I may have overbuilt all this a tad.
Frame plates are 1/4 plate. A pillar is over built having 2 tubes supporting and gusseting it the B pillar had a tube running from the slider to the frame with a slight upward bend to create a grown then a long gusset supporting the whole thing. Then all this is again welded into the body. Then the middle and very back has a tube supporting the slider. I was a bit paranoid of having anything bend causing the door not to open when I only have .5 inch clearance. Should be more than stout.
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- #67
I finished the sliders before I went to Vegas for a trade show last week and got them painted. Changed the exhaust hanger and when I got home did the rear most frame tie in. I went ahead and filled in the floor and seam sealed it all up. Now it’s off to work again for a couple days and when I get back I should have my PRP seats here and ready to go in although I really worry they will be very tight with the +2 width
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- #69
Thanks man!
So this is a 79 series scoop from a Australian company called “the fiberglass factory” decent price just a pain to instal
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- #71
I think it was $350 shipped so it wasn’t bad!
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- #72
Had a business trip to Seattle this week and before my flight home fedex called and told me my seats were here.
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- #73
So these are daily driver seats from PRP. Both are +2 wide and mine is +2 tall. My wife shoulders were perfect for the standard seat so I just went with different size seats since that will fit her better. The seats are all mounted and I finally was able to start on the seatbelt bar. The front seats are all custom mounting points. I also had to smash that rib the seats mount to and goes over the trans tunnel flat up front. They need welded up since they are all tack welded right now but I’ll do that once the rest of the cage X is tack welded in place and I remove the seats for finish weld what is left. then paint!
Worth noting I had to slightly bend the Ebrake handle over Twards the passenger for clearance too and the shifter counsel will need some trimming. Ultimately +2 PRP seats are very tight and will require custom work.
The rear I used 1”.120 wall DOM then made some brackets to mount. The front brackets use the standar location but the rear I had to put new bolt points in.
Worth noting I had to slightly bend the Ebrake handle over Twards the passenger for clearance too and the shifter counsel will need some trimming. Ultimately +2 PRP seats are very tight and will require custom work.
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- #75
It’s kinda funny I hear that a lot and yet actual strong race cages have way more tube. Ultimately my goal is to build something the family can survive a bad roll off a hill.You're about 100' short on tube!
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- #76
Finished the cage! There’s still plenty to do to paint the cage and assemble the interior but feels good to be done with the tube work!
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- #78
Thanks manVery impressive!! Great job!!
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- #79
Alright I’ve been busy since last I posted. I finished the cage up and painted it. The removed the plastic covering the headliner and started assembling the interior. I trimmed the carpet around the tube which is easy especially since I’m my early carrier I did carpet for a living.
Part of the interior was seat mounts. The rear seat required the most work. Used 1”dom .120 wall tube to go between the mounting tabs on the PRP seats and some 1” square tube that’s thinner wall for bracing. Front tabs are 1/4 plate and the rear is cut up 1x2 1/8 tube that I then gusseted.
The factory belts work with the rear seats as well.
Part of the interior was seat mounts. The rear seat required the most work. Used 1”dom .120 wall tube to go between the mounting tabs on the PRP seats and some 1” square tube that’s thinner wall for bracing. Front tabs are 1/4 plate and the rear is cut up 1x2 1/8 tube that I then gusseted.
The factory belts work with the rear seats as well.
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- #80
I proceeded to installs most of the internal plastics I changed colors on along with seats and harnesses all of which are PRP. I painted the rear cargo lower plastics and used the headliner for the rest. All the other plastic either has headliner material or is wrapped in a black leather.
I was able to get the dash in as well and only needed to add one bolt point for the dash. It seams solid enough even though there are several points I cut out where it use to bolt to the body. I had to cut the glove box a little to clear the ECU since I had to relocate that slightly.
I don’t have a picture of the stereo but I went to a 10” screen with apple car play. I will post more on this later since it isn’t finished but I went with a single din head unit in order to mount the Ham under that in the other din.
I was able to get the dash in as well and only needed to add one bolt point for the dash. It seams solid enough even though there are several points I cut out where it use to bolt to the body. I had to cut the glove box a little to clear the ECU since I had to relocate that slightly.
I don’t have a picture of the stereo but I went to a 10” screen with apple car play. I will post more on this later since it isn’t finished but I went with a single din head unit in order to mount the Ham under that in the other din.
