Reuse of knicked up front axle spindle . (1 Viewer)

[fjgdk]

Can I reuse my front axle spindle that I knicked up with a dremel tool trying to get the brass bushing off for replacement ? (stock '83 FJ60)

The bushing looked kind of thin, so I tried taking it off 1st with a Harbor Freight 3-jaw pilot bearing tool to no success and then took a combination of a Demel tool cutting wheel, some WD40 and a brass punch to eventually knock it out.

Unfortunately there are cut knicks from the dremel tool at the outer side of the spindle where the new brass bushing goes. Since the new bushing is going to be pressed in (as opposed to screwed on some sort of threads), do these cuts matter ? Should I get a new spindle instead ?

Also, at the other end of the spindle there is a very slight "rifiling" from one of the brass puch motions I did inadvertently.

Can I reuse this spindle ? Am I being a "hypochondriac" or are these issues to be considered grave concerns ?

Thanks in advance for your time.

 

[White Stripe]

Maybe its just the picture but the inside looks like its got big grooves in it. I would probably still reuse it though.

 

[fjgdk]

There are definitely grooves on the inside (not made by me). Are stock spindles not supposed to have these ?

 

[brownbear]

I'm trying to remember the stack up of parts there... A bearing /seal goes in that spot right?

I can not see it stress cracking and failing, but it is a critical surface.

I guess if you see deep cuts (more than just scratches) it may warrant replacement.

But I'd probably use it.

I would not be super concerned. The bearing transfers it load all around this surface. You could localize some spot polishing with your dremel to remove stress risers per say. But don't do too much or the bushing/race may spin.

Show the part that fits in this spot to refresh my memory please.

I bet this part is super expensive if you can find on new. Used it's probably got similar marks.

 

[brownbear]

I cannot remember if the inside of the spindle looks like that or not. The axle don't touch that area, supported by bearings. So maybe normal...

It's ugly.

 

[60Works]

Blend the cuts and press a new bushing in. The axle is more likely to bend at the Birf ball neck than to shear the chromoly spindle at the wheel bearing flat.

Be advised that the new brass bushing may need to be clocked to match the oiling grooves and also reamed to the correct ID. Too tight an ID and the bushing might grip the axle shaft tighter than the spindle, causing it to turn. This would destroy the bushing, spindle, and Birfield. (And your day.)

The Trail Gear replacements are noticeably different from OEM.

 

[fjgdk]

Blend the cuts and press a new bushing in. The axle is more likely to bend at the Birf ball neck than to shear the chromoly spindle at the wheel bearing flat.

Be advised that the new brass bushing may need to be clocked to match the oiling grooves and also reamed to the correct ID. Too tight an ID and the bushing might grip the axle shaft tighter than the spindle, causing it to turn. This would destroy the bushing, spindle, and Birfield. (And your day.)

The Trail Gear replacements are noticeably different from OEM.

I am using OEM replacement bushings. Are you saying that with Trail Gear replacements I most likely would or would not need to ream the bushings ?

 

[bhk]

My spare spindle has those same ugly grooves on the ID. I think that's normal. It just looks like aggressive tool cuts.

As for the bushing area, I doubt that any stress risers there would lead to failure. I'd clean it up just enough to smoothly press in the new bushing. I wouldn't go after it with a Dremel. Get a metal finishing pad and do it by hand. Like brownbear said, you don't want to remove much material. While you're at it, clean up the surface rust on the flange.

 

[60Works]

I tried a set of the Trail Gear bushings and one was too tight. I don't know what the exact ID should be. Rather than take the spindles to a machine shop to fix the ID, I ordered OEM bushings to do it right. I haven't had a chance to press the OEM's in to know if they fit. They may be just fine as is but the inserted ID will be tighter than as delivered. It's something to check before reassembly.

Good luck.

 

[hj 60]

The axle does not touch the spindle and it is covered in grease so I think the grooves are no problem.
The new bushing covers the other stuff so no need to replace (?)

 

[Prairie Swamp]

The axle does not touch the spindle and it is covered in grease so I think the grooves are no problem.

Looks to be an extremely sloppy boring job. It's not a critical surface at all but still....either a broken or loaded up cutter/boring bar flexing...

The Trail Gear replacements are noticeably different from OEM.

Mine are still in the box. They look different from the ones in there currently which I assume are OEM. When it's time to re-assemble the bushing needs to be reamed to actual axle size plus grease clearance which I figure is about .0015". Grease grooves to the bottom.

Eric

 

[Mace]

I'd run it.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The rough finish on the inside is from a drill bit - that is the finish some big drill bits leave when you don't need to worry about finish. In that location the finish is not important. The factory just needs to get the metal out of the way. The rest of the stuff is nothing to worry about. Install a new bushing and run it. I've seen/used worse after breaking a birfield.

Nick

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I tried a set of the Trail Gear bushings and one was too tight. I don't know what the exact ID should be. Rather than take the spindles to a machine shop to fix the ID, I ordered OEM bushings to do it right. I haven't had a chance to press the OEM's in to know if they fit. They may be just fine as is but the inserted ID will be tighter than as delivered. It's something to check before reassembly.

Good luck.

Often you need to use a brake hone to open up the bore of the bushing after installing new. Used to be a common step for things like kingpin bushings and cam bearings back in the day.

Nick