**Resolved** 1FZ-FE poor cold starts and wont idle (4 Viewers)

[petegangies]

The nut isnt badly rounded, so I think it's worth someone trying again with a decent 6 point socket, and some heat!

There's one exhaust shop that said they will replace the front pipe and gaskets, as it's a better solution, given the flanges on this front pipe look warped/bent from overtightening when installed. The cost to do that is $480. I might ask what price that comes down to, if I supply the gaskets and nuts, as they will almost certainly not use genuine toyota ones.

**Update** found a second hand genuine front pipe. So will be purchasing that and having it installed with new genuine gaskets, nuts and studs. Hopefully that will solve the problem!

Found another suss looking heater hose down behind the motor too. It's right below the other leaking one, but the stains do look like this has had coolant come out at some stage, and the clamp isn't the original. It's the same part number as the previous hose I replaced above it.

 

[thelal]

Found leaking heater hose today, which could very well explain the coolant loss that I was worried was due to a headgasket issue. At the back of the engine near the firewall, comes off the heater valve assembly. Have included both part numbers below (only replaced the hose, my heater valve assembly is fine).

Will check coolant levels after another couple of weeks of driving. Car will be booked in for LPG removal in the next month or so, then for the exhaust headers and front pipe replacement. After that, I'll see how it's running, then if still no good, it's off to the auto electricians to start diagnosis on ecu timing control, sensors, etc.


......

Glad you got the leak and good parts to replace

 

[petegangies]

Glad you got the leak and good parts to replace

next challenge is working out whether any of the 4 VAF's I have here are actually any good. 3 of them will run the vehicle, but given I know nothing of their history and were purchased second hand, there's every chance they aren't operating to spec. I guess i just need to keep eliminating one thing at a time and hope something eventually works!

 

[robnicko]

The nut isnt badly rounded, so I think it's worth someone trying again with a decent 6 point socket, and some heat!

There's one exhaust shop that said they will replace the front pipe and gaskets, as it's a better solution, given the flanges on this front pipe look warped/bent from overtightening when installed. The cost to do that is $480. I might ask what price that comes down to, if I supply the gaskets and nuts, as they will almost certainly not use genuine toyota ones.

**Update** found a second hand genuine front pipe. So will be purchasing that and having it installed with new genuine gaskets, nuts and studs. Hopefully that will solve the problem!

Found another suss looking heater hose down behind the motor too. It's right below the other leaking one, but the stains do look like this has had coolant come out at some stage, and the clamp isn't the original. It's the same part number as the previous hose I replaced above it.

View attachment 3841813

thats the dreaded PHH, replace that worm drive clamp with a constant torque clamp

 

[petegangies]

thats the dreaded PHH, replace that worm drive clamp with a constant torque clamp View attachment 3847536

do you have the part number that fits that heater hose?

The clamp it's supposed to come with is:

Maybe this fits though?

 

[mudgudgeon]

do you have the part number that fits that heater hose?

The clamp it's supposed to come with is:

View attachment 3847552

Maybe this fits though?

View attachment 3847553

The bottom one will work. Much easier than the twisty one.

Buy new clamps, leave the red tab on then until you have the hose in place.
Position the clamp where you want it, then pull the red tab off.
They are a huge benefit whet changing this hose

 

[petegangies]

The bottom one will work. Much easier than the twisty one.

Buy new clamps, leave the red tab on then until you have the hose in place.
Position the clamp where you want it, then pull the red tab off.
They are a huge benefit whet changing this hose

great! If that's the correct size clamp for my application, then I can get a 5 pack of genuine ones off ebay.. my local Toyota Parts place said they need to get them ex Japan.

 

[mudgudgeon]

great! If that's the correct size clamp for my application, then I can get a 5 pack of genuine ones off ebay.. my local Toyota Parts place said they need to get them ex Japan.

It's correct

 

[robnicko]

i used the bottom clamp and no issues whatsoever plus makes it easier to remove & reuse if needed

 

[petegangies]

thanks @mudgudgeon and @robnicko for confirming the clamps!

does anyone know what this white part is on the front of the airbox? I think US versions have an airbox resonator there that plumbs back into the rocker cover.

 

[mudgudgeon]

thanks @mudgudgeon and @robnicko for confirming the clamps!

does anyone know what this white part is on the front of the airbox? I think US versions have an airbox resonator there that plumbs back into the rocker cover.

View attachment 3848277

It's a vacuum sensor. If the air filter is choked up this sensor will trigger a dirty filter warning light.

 

[petegangies]

The latest on my front pipe replacement..

Muffler/ front pipe FZJ80 (1FZ-FE)

Hi all.. picked this up from a wreckers. Do you think that crack in the muffler goes all the way through? Or is their an outer shell? Also overall condition of the muffler considered the rust? Would appreciate your thoughts. These are NLA from Toyota and rare as hen's teeth to find and I need one...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[petegangies]

had the cooling system pressure tested today.. the mechanic used about 18 psi, which I thought was a bit excessive, given the cap rating is around 13psi (88kPa) I believe. Can anyone see any harmful effects as a result of this?

The heater control valve was leaking from behind the unit, so I'll need to replace that.

Thanks,
Pete

 

[petegangies]

Flushed cooling system today and added new coolant. Changed the ECT sensor while I was at it (with new copper washer). Torque setting is 20nm.

I accidentally knocked off the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regular. I noticed when I got home after 40min drive, as the car was losing power under load up hills. I suspected I'd done something. What I did find though, was that numerous drops of fuel came out of the vacuum hose. I didn't think that would be possible unless the diaphragm is falling? However.. I replaced the vacuum hose and checked again with the engine on and there was no fuel spurting... odd....any thoughts?

 

[robnicko]

fuel out of the FPR vacuum means you need a new FPR, the diaphragm is faulty
just think that if thats happening you are getting unmetered fuel into the intake, fuel pressure to the injectors will be off as well (loss of power etc)

 

[petegangies]

fuel out of the FPR vacuum means you need a new FPR, the diaphragm is faulty
just think that if thats happening you are getting unmetered fuel into the intake, fuel pressure to the injectors will be off as well

So it doesn't matter if I drove with the vacuum line off? That wouldn't cause this to happen? Just wondering why it didn't happen again when testing a second time after replacing the vacuum hose and reattaching.

Could I use some pinch plyers to crimp this vacuum line, and see if it changes the rough performance I have while cold? My theory is, if the FPR isn't getting vacuum from the manifold, the regulator would then run at base pressure and prevents fuel from being sucked into the manifold if the diaphragm is ruptured. It also avoids introducing a vacuum leak into the system.... thoughts?

 

[petegangies]

update: car isn't running now.. will start, idle is all over the place, and wont drive without stalling or running extremely rough with no power. Suspect the FPR has completely failed. Limped it home (took 45mins). New FPR on the way, will also do an oil change incase (and likely) fuel has made it's way into the oil by washing down the cylinder walls after sucking it in throught the vacuum into the intake manifold. Fingers crossed this gets it back on the road.

 

[petegangies]

update: car isn't running now.. will start, idle is all over the place, and wont drive without stalling or running extremely rough with no power. Suspect the FPR has completely failed. Limped it home (took 45mins). New FPR on the way, will also do an oil change incase (and likely) fuel has made it's way into the oil by washing down the cylinder walls after sucking it in throught the vacuum into the intake manifold. Fingers crossed this gets it back on the road.

Replaced the FPR. No change. Car will run on LPG, so must be fuel system related. Oil level had risen and smelled like fuel.. so washing down the bores.

Possible issues:

1. Injectors (maybe one hanging) or weird electrical issue making them pulse at max
2. Fuel pump dying
3. Charcoal canister blocked
4. Fuel filter blocked

It's off to a mechanic and auto electrician. I've officially thrown in the towel.

 

[petegangies]

Gas cap release

 

[petegangies]

by passed the charcoal canister yesterday and it made no difference to how the car is running. Given the car runs properly on LPG and not on petrol, I'm guessing that when the auto electrician replaced the wiring loom with a second hand one (not exact same loom), that something has been wired incorrectly, that is telling the injectors to constantly spray fuel. My symptoms are consistent with chronic overfuelling. It's off to the mechanics this weekend, he works at an auto electrical place so has that experience too. The LPG systems also splice into the ECM wires, so something could be off there too. I've done all I can from the mechanical side of things. Failing that, fuel pump, fuel filter or a leaking injector are all possibilities.