Request for advice where to start our 71 project (1 Viewer)

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I must have missed the fact that you have a 2F in your '71. I don't think the 2F would have had a provision for the vacuum actuated transfer case, that is probably why someone added the Tee into the system. It seems like that would work if done correctly.

I guess I will give this solution a try and see if it works. I know there are others that have swapped motors but I’ve never seen how it’s handled. @orangefj45 would know for sure if this sharing of vacuum source will work or how to do it differently. I will do some research as well.
 
I might have a good used cable in my stash.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
 
I might have a good used cable in my stash.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
That would be most excellent news. Did you see the question about where/how to supply vacuum for the switch since I have a 2F in place of the F? Is it ok to tap into the vacuum that runs over to the PCV?
 
Well we got the old drum brakes and knuckles off so we can think about installing the new disc brake parts. We have located the later model Birfs thanks to @POPO AGIE. Thanks to @orangefj45 for live help getting Trunnions to cooperate. Baby steps.
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That little ring had me scratching my head for a hot minute. But then I figured it out. Remove the tiny set screws and then tap it around. This side didn’t have the traditional locking tab star washer. Never seen one before and of course if it’s not on YouTube I’m not an expert 😂
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May go ahead and do the springs, shocks and shackles now. Seems like it would be easier right now, but maybe not a big deal later either. I was originally thinking of putting off that expense til later. What do you guys with more experience think? Now or later?
 
Also, what is the consensus on this steering damper. The part is still available new from Toyota, but it’s expensive. $185.00 or so. Vs an Old Man Emu steering stabilizer for less than $100. I am not going w OME suspension because I did it on the 82 and the ride is crap. Though maybe I will pull them off the 82 and go with something else. That might be the smart play. Again, what do you guys who have used other kits besides OME think. My 82 rides like a rough tractor.

PS the cheap Harbor Freight ball joint separator works amazingly well. Even for HF. I do t buy much from there, but this on is a winner.

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Lift will be similar work regardless, but you’re going to need new bushings now at a minimum so it would save you chiseling/burning out old bushings. The ‘82 springs won’t work on this one, they went to wider 60 hangers on the late 40s. If you break those springs in it will do wonders for the ride on the ‘82, can park across a ditch or use ramps … want to flex front axle one direction and rear opposite direction as fully stuffed as you can get it. Park and leave one way for 12-24hrs then switch. You’ll be amazed 😉

Stabilizer is preference …
 
Lift will be similar work regardless, but you’re going to need new bushings now at a minimum so it would save you chiseling/burning out old bushings. The ‘82 springs won’t work on this one, they went to wider 60 hangers on the late 40s. If you break those springs in it will do wonders for the ride on the ‘82, can park across a ditch or use ramps … want to flex front axle one direction and rear opposite direction as fully stuffed as you can get it. Park and leave one way for 12-24hrs then switch. You’ll be amazed 😉

Stabilizer is preference …

Bummer about the later springs but save me extra work 😜. Good point about chisel or torch. Would suck to mess up my nicely painted frame. Really interesting info on the flexing of my springs. That would be awesome it is did make an improvement. I will try that. I don’t have ramps but I can figure something out. As for the 71, any recommendations for it spring and shock wise? With that question, will the shocks from the 82 work? And do shocks have much to do with the ride quality? Should I switch to say Bilstein?
 
When I was doing the same chores as you are doing now, I contemplated an aftermarket steering stabilizer, for my ‘74, but the original was okay so I cleaned & painted it and put it back on.
 
When I was doing the same chores as you are doing now, I contemplated an aftermarket steering stabilizer, for my ‘74, but the original was okay so I cleaned & painted it and put it back on.
I was wondering about this. One joint feels good, the other is stiff, but they are not sloppy at all. I should grease them up and feel how they move. They need dust caps, which I am guessing can be found???
 
Lift will be similar work regardless, but you’re going to need new bushings now at a minimum so it would save you chiseling/burning out old bushings. The ‘82 springs won’t work on this one, they went to wider 60 hangers on the late 40s. If you break those springs in it will do wonders for the ride on the ‘82, can park across a ditch or use ramps … want to flex front axle one direction and rear opposite direction as fully stuffed as you can get it. Park and leave one way for 12-24hrs then switch. You’ll be amazed 😉

Stabilizer is preference …
I'm going to give that a try. Thanks for sharing.
 
I think the OME and the Toyota OEM steering stabilizers are the only 2 that bolt to stock location. Other aftermarket mount to a ball joint and to the axle I believe.
I picked up Bilsteins F/R for both of mine, going with stock springs and did a 1.5" lift from CCOT with greaseable shackles and pins.
also did the full Energy Suspension bushing kit with body mounts and CCOT Ball Joint kit, comes with all 5.
 
Just meant there isn’t a clear superiority to OEM vs OME, so it’s whatever you like that fits your budget. I’ve used Ironman as well, think they make the stock mounts. Lift - OME/HFS/Ironman/Dobinson … seems most go with 2.5” now days, I’ve got the 4plus 4” Man-a-fre used to sell on mine.

Tucker
 
I think the OME and the Toyota OEM steering stabilizers are the only 2 that bolt to stock location. Other aftermarket mount to a ball joint and to the axle I believe.
I picked up Bilsteins F/R for both of mine, going with stock springs and did a 1.5" lift from CCOT with greaseable shackles and pins.
also did the full Energy Suspension bushing kit with body mounts and CCOT Ball Joint kit, comes with all 5.
What do you mean by stock springs and did a 1.5" lift from CCOT? The Energy suspension bushing kit, do you mean the body mounts? Or also the spring bushings?
 
Just meant there isn’t a clear superiority to OEM vs OME, so it’s whatever you like that fits your budget. I’ve used Ironman as well, think they make the stock mounts. Lift - OME/HFS/Ironman/Dobinson … seems most go with 2.5” now days, I’ve got the 4plus 4” Man-a-fre used to sell on mine.

Tucker
I agree, 2.5 medium lift is what I did on the 82 and will also do on my others. I guess I will look around. I know OME is quality stuff and if I could get them to loosen up that would be good.
 
Lift will be similar work regardless, but you’re going to need new bushings now at a minimum so it would save you chiseling/burning out old bushings. The ‘82 springs won’t work on this one, they went to wider 60 hangers on the late 40s. If you break those springs in it will do wonders for the ride on the ‘82, can park across a ditch or use ramps … want to flex front axle one direction and rear opposite direction as fully stuffed as you can get it. Park and leave one way for 12-24hrs then switch. You’ll be amazed 😉

Stabilizer is preference …
Good point, my OME 2.5” heavy/medium was horribly stiff until broke in as you described. Neighbors thought I was losing it leaving it parked like that...

Great thread so far!
 

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