Request for advice where to start our 71 project

[merbesfield]

Good point, my OME 2.5” heavy/medium was horribly stiff until broke in as you described. Neighbors thought I was losing it leaving it parked like that...

Great thread so far!

For someone who doesn't know suspension, what is happening when you leave it flexed for 24hrs. Seems like those springs are so strong that wouldn't make any difference. But as Sgt. Shultz said, I know nothing....

 

[GatorPlater]

CCOT sells the lift shackles, just a beefier shackle that takes the stock OEM spring. You can get them with greasable pins, already have the great zerk installed. Then just add the Bilsteins which have a slightly extended shaft which allows a lift between 0-2.5". Better than stock ride on the Bilsteins, utilizing the oem springs with a shackle lift. You just have to check spider angle to make sure it isn't binding, if so, add 2 or 3 degree shims under the spring/built, which will lift the face of the diff towards the center member.

Energy sells a full kit with all body bushings, new shock bushings, new spring eye hole bushings. It is a nice kit, runs about 150$ if you look around.

 

[igotta40]

I was wondering about this. One joint feels good, the other is stiff, but they are not sloppy at all. I should grease them up and feel how they move. They need dust caps, which I am guessing can be found???

Yes, the rubber boots and retaining rings are available. I think mine were sourced from Specter Off Road

 

[merbesfield]

Yes, the rubber boots and retaining rings are available. I think mine were sourced from Specter Off Road

Went out to shop and cleaned the zerks real well and started pumping grease in. Took a while to get clean stuff coming out but did finally. What should this dampener feel like when pushing and pulling it. It’s not like a shock right? No spring. Just steady push pull? That’s what mine does. Is this right?

Did you go w OEM $$ or aftermarket? If aftermarket which one? They have two versions. One Polyurethane?

Looked at SOR and the reproduction look exactly the same as OEM at 1/4 the cost.

 

[merbesfield]

CCOT sells the lift shackles, just a beefier shackle that takes the stock OEM spring. You can get them with greasable pins, already have the great zerk installed. Then just add the Bilsteins which have a slightly extended shaft which allows a lift between 0-2.5". Better than stock ride on the Bilsteins, utilizing the oem springs with a shackle lift. You just have to check spider angle to make sure it isn't binding, if so, add 2 or 3 degree shims under the spring/built, which will lift the face of the diff towards the center member.

Energy sells a full kit with all body bushings, new shock bushings, new spring eye hole bushings. It is a nice kit, runs about 150$ if you look around.

Only problem is my springs are old and rusty.

 

[GatorPlater]

I have an extra set of OEM...or you can derust yours in kiddie pool.

 

[merbesfield]

I have an extra set of OEM...or you can derust yours in kiddie pool.

Mine are so rusty not sure its worth the effort. Seems like I saw somewhere that sold springs at what seemed like a reasonable price. I don't think they were anything special, just springs.

 

[Mtntopper]

Mine are so rusty not sure its worth the effort. Seems like I saw somewhere that sold springs at what seemed like a reasonable price. I don't think they were anything special, just springs.

I have some not too rusty factory springs off my '71 you're welcome to. Definitely broken in, I've considered re-arching but have heard conflicting info on whether re-arching works.

 

[igotta40]

Went out to shop and cleaned the zerks real well and started pumping grease in. Took a while to get clean stuff coming out but did finally. What should this dampener feel like when pushing and pulling it. It’s not like a shock right? No spring. Just steady push pull? That’s what mine does. Is this right?

Did you go w OEM $$ or aftermarket? If aftermarket which one? They have two versions. One Polyurethane?

Looked at SOR and the reproduction look exactly the same as OEM at 1/4 the cost.

Correct, no spring, just damping in both directions. If you do buy a new one, I would advise OEM toyota, especially if you’re keeping the truck. 1. You will never have to replace it again 2. SOR aftermarket is probably Chinese and will probably fail, thus the lower price btw they will nail you on shipping charges.

 

[merbesfield]

I will give mine a try before buying one. It will clean up well. And like you said, would do OEM or OME if I did that suspension upgrade. I have to figure out what I am doing with the springs etc. I have OME on the 82 and it’s rough. And expensive.

 

[merbesfield]

I have some not too rusty factory springs off my '71 you're welcome to. Definitely broken in, I've considered re-arching but have heard conflicting info on whether re-arching works.

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. What did you replace yours with? I would like a 2” lift and I think the only way to achieve that is with new springs or maybe re-arching as you mentioned, but not sure if that’s doable. There is a local spring shop I use. I guess I should give him a call.

 

[Mtntopper]

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. What did you replace yours with? I would like a 2” lift and I think the only way to achieve that is with new springs or maybe re-arching as you mentioned, but not sure if that’s doable. There is a local spring shop I use. I guess I should give him a call.

I went with OME, but as you and others have mentioned, it's really stiff. I'm anxious to try the exercise detailed above and see if I can't soften those springs up a bit.

 

[merbesfield]

I am removing parts to get ready for rear disc conversion using @Poser kit. Is it normal to have a bit of play in the rear dive axle when turning by hand?

 

[merbesfield]

I opened the rear dif and the gear oil was decent until it got to the bottom and then it was sludgie. There was some grit mixed in at the bottom but not too much actual metal on the magnetic drain plug. The is some pitting on the ring, from I imagine where it sat at the bottom. Can’t tell if this was old pitting or new from sitting. How much is acceptable? Also one of the spider gears has some up and down play. Again not sure if this is typical or normal for an old rear end. I have a short video showing the play. Advice welcome. Unless you are going to tell me to rip it all out and rebuild it. If so don’t give advice

 

[POPO AGIE]

There was water in the oil for quite awhile.

 

[merbesfield]

Small steps. Got the repair harness for the ignition key switch from @ToyotaMatt and it of course worked perfectly. Spent more time cleaning under the dash and removing dead rats than actual crimping. I used a large piece of heat shrink over all the wires to give it a finished look. Matt included the extra connector wire for accessories (blue w red tracer). I don’t plan on using it and wanted it sealed off. Matt had taped it closed but I had to remove the tape etc to get it all through the heat shrink. I came up w a pretty slick way of closing off the connector if I do say so myself. I took some heat shrink and let it run long, shrunk it and then folded it over. I then used another piece to shrink over the food there by sealing it off. I’m sure it’s not water tight but it doesn’t need to be.

 

[merbesfield]

Pics of connector fold over.

 

[merbesfield]

Can anyone tell me what this clamp/holder thing is? I think it may be there to hold the flasher?

 

[merbesfield]

And of course the finished ignition switch. So now the truck turns over. Getting closer. Next up install the Pertronix setup and new fuel pump once it arrives. Then hopefully she will start.

 

[merbesfield]

Here is the real piece de’ resistance! This is my freshly rebuilt carburetor. But the word rebuilt doesn’t do it justice. This thing looks like new. Every piece was replated to look like new before being rebuilt by none other than our own great @SlapSmak here on Mud. Tim has his own plating setup and the results speak for themselves. I can’t wait to fire this thing up. This carb was in bad shape. One of the butterflies was frozen solid and it was so rusted up it looked terrible. Additionally, there were several internal issues from PO who didn’t know what they were doing. All perfect now.

I have to say it again. It takes a village and that village is Mud. Without the help from so many of you guys I would never get this rig back on the road. From wiring to carburetors to transmissions, the list is endless. Thanks to everyone for your help. I really appreciate it.
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