Request for advice where to start our 71 project

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PS, don’t worry about how ugly the engine looks compared to the carburetor. We are just getting it running so we can confirm the motor is good. It has been sitting for a long time, but was supposedly rebuilt. Once we know it runs we can tear it all down and build it back up to look as nice as the carburetor.
 
BUE wire w/ Red tracer stripe is your ACC key position , for :

CB radio

- Stereo

- FOG lamps

- ANY Accessory non needing to enter the KEY On relm of ignition FYI ...........
 
BUE wire w/ Red tracer stripe is your ACC key position , for :

CB radio

- Stereo

- FOG lamps

- ANY Accessory non needing to enter the KEY On relm of ignition FYI ...........
So are you saying the Blue wire w Red tracer is constant power even with key in off position?
 
So are you saying the Blue wire w Red tracer is constant power even with key in off position?


NO !

ACC position

1 click ONLY


is this a better description ?

please let me know
 
Thanks to @JVZii I now have the cluster mostly original. PO had hacked the lights and rigged some POS plastic non original sockets in place of the metal ones. I picked up these little guys and made a proper repair to the harness cluster. I still have to deal w cosmetics, but that’s is later.

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Well we finally had a break and I was able to get some help from a local mechanic to get our 40 started. He went through the basics and checked what I had already done to be sure we had spark etc. I actually had the TDC correct a well as the firing order, shocker! A little gas and she started right up. The dizzy just needed a little twist to help get it to start.

 
I love it when things go well and a good plan comes together. Bill aka @POPO AGIE delivered Trusty’s donated H42 4spd and TC to the shippers in WY last Thursday and it has already been delivered in GA and is safely stored in my shop. That was amazingly fast, esp with the holidays and all the trucking issues we are reading about. R&L Carriers did a fantastic job.

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Well we finally had a break and I was able to get some help from a local mechanic to get our 40 started. He went through the basics and checked what I had already done to be sure we had spark etc. I actually had the TDC correct a well as the firing order, shocker! A little gas and she started right up. The dizzy just needed a little twist to help get it to start.


I have not heard a 2F engine running since 1991
 
I love it when things go well and a good plan comes together. Bill aka @POPO AGIE delivered Trusty’s donated H42 4spd and TC to the shippers in WY last Thursday and it has already been delivered in GA and is safely stored in my shop. That was amazingly fast, esp with the holidays and all the trucking issues we are reading about. R&L Carriers did a fantastic job.

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I am glad it made safely
 
Well I guess since you are going with a 2.8R diesel conversion, it may be another 30 years before you hear one, if ever.
Probably true. But nothing sounds like a Cummins. I have had 4 and they all sounded different. Then there was the IH 7.3 Indirect Injection that was very loud with the hood open anything above idle there should have been a hearing warning. The engine compartment needed sound insulation so it was bearable inside the F250 cab.
 
Then I had a bright idea to put dual exhaust on that F250 with glass pack mufflers. For long trips, driving to a turbine outage, it turned out to be a very bad idea it got very loud fast, but between that and a fabricated cold air intake it made a big difference in power. I walked away from a newer Power Stroke, and took him an hour and a half to catch me. He called me on the CB radio to tell me notice my truck was running better. He passed me on the 3 ridges north of Yakama, WA with an F150 with a 302 and 5 speed, but I caught him and passed him South of Yacama and beat him to Baker City, OR by 2 hours.
 
I have been pecking away at disassembling the engine compartment with plans for deep cleaning then build it all back w new or rebuilt parts. When I removed the water pump and thermostat housing I found lots of rust inside the engine. I guess my idiot old mechanic filled it with water and then it sat for way too long. Since I am not able to to run the engine, I rigged up a recirculating pump and looped it from the back block drain plug to the thermostat inlet. Works very well. I did research and found that the “internet experts” recommended using non sudsing dishwasher detergent followed by Thermocure. I am amazed at how well it seems to work. Glad I didn’t run all this gunk through my new radiator. I have done 4 cleansing so far and will follow with two rounds of Thermocure and I’ll call it good.



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You had better help I pulled your 4-speed and transfer case alone and lowered it down with a rope like the manual shows.
Now to get the bell housing swapped.
 
You had better help I pulled your 4-speed and transfer case alone and lowered it down with a rope like the manual shows.
Now to get the bell housing swapped.
Yes, many hands make lite work. I have to remove the broken exhaust stud (thanks PO), which of course is the last one next to the firewall. So I have to pull the engine forward in the chassis. I don't want to do this until I have my new motor mounts in hand. I just placed a huge order with Toyota. :bounce:
 
Spent time over last few days attacking the underside with angle grinder w wire wheels. Sh#%*ty job, but someone has to do it. Sprayed rust converter recommended by @wngrog and will follow up with a couple of good coats of black paint. Obviously, the heavily “patinaed” areas will stay that way. I will be replacing the front floor pans though.
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