I did not see a pilot bearing mentioned, but now is the time. The rubber clutch fork boot will be gooy and shot, replace it. Consider a new clutch slave cylinder-easy to do with it all apart. Look carefully at your speedo cable. It is much easier to replace with the tranny down. i totally agree that you should have the flywheel machined now too. Get a complete clutch.
It's heavy with the t-case. Don't think you can muscle it in.
Rebuild the t-case. The rebuild kit is about $200, but the t-case will be completely disassembled, so you may as well use new bearings, seals and gaskets when it goes together. If you are really broke, at least replace the t=case input seal, the speedo output seal, the rear output seal, and the o-rings on the idler shaft. Getting the high/low shifter back on the rail is a challenge. Be careful when putting it back together, or you will do it a second time.
Put a new shifter ring in the transmission shift tower. It's only a couple of bucks and prone to failure.
Take the tranny out with a transmission jack. I lift mine back in with an engine hoist through the passenger door. I also get a couple of bolts the same thread as the bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing. Then cut the heads off, and use them as dowels to guide the tranny into place. Once in place, remove the dowels and replace with the toytoa bolts.
One last overlooked thing that makes a huge difference. The t-case linkage has a couple of bushings. One is square and plastic, the other is rubber. Replace these, and the weird shifter noise at speeed that all 60s seem to get will go away.
There is a small seal under the nose cover of the tranny input shaft. It takes 30 seconds to replace, so do that for sure.
Removing the cross member is a pain. I have found it easier to remove the frame support on the passenger side, as well as the cross member bolts.
Good luck.
