I like easy ( guess Im lazy) -and torquing with wheels on the ground seems like less work than the suggested process for wheels in the air measuring and then remeasuring and adjusting to get suspension in the right place-
Replacing lower control arm "No. 2 Bushing"
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
#MeToo
I just did the front driver side lower control arm: Had a faulty ball joint.
The number-2 bushing was the easiest.
The nuts on LCA have notches on the side facing the control arm and will not budge at any force you throw at it. You must FIRST LOOSEN the BOLT. Same applies to the lower shock bolt, loosen it first.
It was not that difficult to torque the bolts while the vehicle was on stands. I measured the hub to fender lip and also lower shock mount to upper shock mount, Once both measurements were set, I torqued the LCA bolts.
The number-2 bushing was the easiest.
The nuts on LCA have notches on the side facing the control arm and will not budge at any force you throw at it. You must FIRST LOOSEN the BOLT. Same applies to the lower shock bolt, loosen it first.
It was not that difficult to torque the bolts while the vehicle was on stands. I measured the hub to fender lip and also lower shock mount to upper shock mount, Once both measurements were set, I torqued the LCA bolts.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
You have the torsion bar out and everything disconnected? I don't remember it being difficult, but I usually use a spud wrench to align bolt holes if I'm having trouble getting them aligned.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I'm not sure if you mean the bushing isn't pressed in far enough or it doesn't aline along the axis of the bolt. If the latter, maybe try to get both bolts started before fully inserting either? Sorry, I'm not clear on your exact situation, but if you get pictures then you'll get some good suggestions from the community.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Typically the LCA slip in easily.
If I understand you correctly. LCA doesn't seem to fit in frame.
If I understand you correctly. LCA doesn't seem to fit in frame.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've run into two cases where, LCA would not easily slip back in.
In both, was evidence of frontal impact to LCA and or crossmember. In the first one. Owner said, steering pulled to one side. That he had many alignments done, using multiple alignment shops. But never could they get it to stop pulling to one side. For years he lived with the pulling. After I R&R LCA & #2 bushing, adding 3 spacer to LH LCA. It align perfect, for the first no pull in steering.
Last month I ran into issue again. This time I only used 2 spacers. But it was a fight getting LCA in. I had to put a great deal of lateral pressure on #1 & 2 bushing to get LCA in. It could have use 4 bushing!
In both, was evidence of frontal impact to LCA and or crossmember. In the first one. Owner said, steering pulled to one side. That he had many alignments done, using multiple alignment shops. But never could they get it to stop pulling to one side. For years he lived with the pulling. After I R&R LCA & #2 bushing, adding 3 spacer to LH LCA. It align perfect, for the first no pull in steering.
Last month I ran into issue again. This time I only used 2 spacers. But it was a fight getting LCA in. I had to put a great deal of lateral pressure on #1 & 2 bushing to get LCA in. It could have use 4 bushing!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Three spacer is a lot, but it worked.
Here are some pictures of mine. It currently only has one spacer. I checked the measurement of the old LCA from inside edge to the rubber spacer and the old one was 1/8 wider than the new one I’m trying to install. I ordered it from Japan so it could have possibly been damaged in shipment.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Yep!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Is it bent frame, bent LCA, manufacture variation in either or combination of. In any case, my thinking is:Toyota gave us spacer to compensate for variations in spread. That we use none, if that gives a relaxed fit. But, how many is advisable to use if any needed. I've not found any guidance from Toyota, to date!
The concern in not having a relaxed fit of LCA, as we install. That as we force in LCA by stretching rubber of bushing sideways. We're putting bushing under constant stress. Just as we want to torque in bolt of bushing, while LCA in neutral stance. So we're not stretching/stressing rubber, at all times when should be at rest. Which can result in prematurely failing.
As I noted, I've found fitment issue with LCA twice, in about a 1/2 dozen I've replaced.
First one; was new OEM LCA I picked-up at local Toyota Dealership. Very rare to see any shipping damaged, when parts picked-up at a Dealership. There was nothing to indicate any damage either. But there was damage noted on #1 bushing frame mounting point. Which, for sure took a rock hit while in forward motion.
Second one; I used a restored LCA. That was inspected for damage, non found. The undercarriage did showed some damage, on same side as extra spacers needed. Reportedly, rig had run over a snowbank resulting in damage. History showed, it been inspected on a frame measuring rack afterwards. Although no frame straighten/pulling done. Repairs on LH front suspension and other areas of undercarriage preformed mostly on LH side. For which I had to correct some shoddy workmanship. For one, replacing LCA. It could have use 4 spacer. But, I was uncomfortable with 3, that I had used, in the other (1st) 100 series I ran into this issue. So I settled on just 2 spacer. Which only 2, required leverage to force LCA in. So I split hairs as they say!
Most times these LCA, just fit like hand in a glove. It wasn't until I ran into fitment issues. That I began to think about why Toyota name them "spacer", they are! But I've never found any references in FSM, TIS or Toyota training manuals.
It was suggest, spacer's are to compensate for a slight irregularity of bushing, where vertical & horizontal plans meet. That only one should and must be used. Just to compensate for irregularity contact point, so bushing would fit flush. But upon closer inspection, we found frame has a female inside bevel. So bushing would actually fit without inference (flush), without any spacer.
So it would seem: We can configure comfortably without any spacer, just one or even two spacers. Three has worked, but I've concern with 3 or more extending bushing out to far.
#2 bushing's pocket in frame, has an inside bevel to accommodate bushing without any spacer.
Irregular surface. That is to say; not a prefect sharp 90 degree seat.
One reason I've concern using to many spacers. Is we could weaken frame's hold on #2 bushing.
Bushing actually has larger diameter last inch or so that fits sung in frame. It's that last inch, we're pressing in. So concerns is: The more spacers added, the less surface area of good frim fit/hold to support weight.
Note, how last inch or so. Has a more filled in or smooth look on this old removed rust bushing. The first two inches is porous rust, indicate space between bushing and pocket in the frame.
This "last inch or so" is where bushing fits tightly in frame.
Looking closely. We can see bushing has a smaller diameter for most open end. Than a bevel leading to a larger diameter near stop end.
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Did you use a rachet strap and pull method? Or a bottle jack between the two arms to expand it a bit? Sometime LC's must be treated like in Africa!
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
That's some good information about the spacers. I didn't pay attention to it since mine fit up with no issues. If someone runs into fitment issues though, like the OP, this will be very helpful.
Toyota gave us spacer to compensate for variations in spread. That we use none, if that gives a relaxed fit. But, how many is advisable to use if any needed. I've not found any guidance from Toyota, to date!
The concern in not having a relaxed fit of LCA, as we install. That as we force in LCA by stretching rubber of bushing sideways. We're putting bushing under constant stress. Just as we want to torque in bolt of bushing while LCA in neutral stance, so we're not stretching/stressing rubber at all times when should be at rest, result in prematurely failing.
As I noted, I've found fitment issue with LCA twice, in about a 1/2 dozen I've replace.
First, was new OEM LCA I picked-up at local Toyota Dealership. Very rare to see any shipping damaged, when parts pick up at a Dealership. There was nothing to indicate any damage either. But there was damage noted on #1 bushing frame mounting point. It for sure took a rock hit, while in forward motion.
Second, I used a restored LCA. That was inspected for any damage, non found. The undercarriage did showed some damage, on same side as extra spacers needed. Reportedly, rig had run over a snowbank resulting in damage. History showed, it been inspected on a frame measuring rack afterwards. Although no frame straighten/pulling done. Repairs on LH front suspension and other areas of undercarriage preformed mostly on LH side. For which I had to correct some shoddy workmanship. For one, replacing LCA. It could have use 4 spacer. But, I was uncomfortable with 3 I'd used, in the other 100 series I ran into this issue. So I settled on 2 spacer, and used leverage to force LCA in. So I split hairs as they say!
Most times these LCA, just fit like hand in a glove. It wasn't until I ran into fitment issues. That I began to think about why Toyota name them "spacer", they are! But I've never found any references in FSM, TIS or Toyota training manuals.
It was suggest, spacer's are to compensate for a slight irregularity of bushing, where vertical & horizontal plans meet. That only one should and must be used. Jus to compensate for irregularity contact point. But upon closer inspection, we found frame has a female inside bevel. So bushing would actually fit without inference, without a spacer.
So it would seem: We can configure confrontable without any spacer, just one or two spacers. Three has worked, but I've concern with 3 or more..
#2 bushing's pocket in frame, has an inside bevel to accommodate bushing without any spacer.
View attachment 3470315
Irregular surface, or to say not a prefect sharp 90 degree seat.
View attachment 3470323
One reason I've concern using to many spacers. Is we could weaken frame's hold on #2 bushing.
Bushing actually has larger diameter last inch or so that fits sung in frame. It's that last inch, we're pressing in. So concerns is: More spacers added, the less surface area of good frim fit.
Note how last inch or so, has a more filled in or smooth look on this old removed rust bushing. The first two inches is porous rust, indicate space between bushing and pocket in the frame.
This "last inch or so" is where bushing fits tightly in frame.
View attachment 3470348
View attachment 3470338
Looking closely. We can see bushing has a smaller diameter, than a bevel leading to a larger diameter near stop end.
View attachment 3470388
Here are a few more pictures with width measurements from my old one and my new front left and right. It looks like the new OEM front left one is smaller than the orthorhombic two. So are spacers the best option or should I try to expand it a little?
2001LC
SILVER Star
interesting. I've never tried to resize. Your call!
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Are the inside faces parallel if you measure them between the two around the perimeter? If so then I wouldn't want to spread the arms or they'll end up out of parallel. In that case I think a spacer would be appropriate. If they're not parallel, I would be inclined to warranty the new part, or possibly spread them if doing so would make the faces more parallel as indicated by the measurements.
I hate to see new parts get junked, but for the price I would lean towards warranty.
Jack90210
SILVER Star
So, if the new arm doesn't fit without stressing it, pop the bushing back out and add a spacer or two as necessary?
