Replacing Fuel Lines

[BTG88]

To help prevent the recent fuel delivery problems I've had recently, I want to replace the fuel lines in my '75 w/ 2F. Stock except for headers, Petronix and rebuilt carb courtesy of Mark.

Soft lines I will replace with good quality (probably Gates) rubber. Any suggestions on where to get a good set of stainless steel lines bent?

Thanks

 

[GA Architect]

Click here and take a look at post #16316

 

[BTG88]

Click here and take a look at post #16316

I asked - No good. He just them for himself. Still searching for a source of new lines.

 

[JohnnyC]

Buy the line in a roll... but a cheapo hand tube bender and have at it

 

[samatulich]

Build them yourself. Probably one of the easier jobs that I have taken on. You'll need about 8 feet of 5/16" hard fuel line (I bought two 4' lengths), a few crush/compression fittings, tube bender and pipe cutter. My guess is that it cost less than $30 total and an hour of your time.

 

[FJ4013]

Build them yourself. Probably one of the easier jobs that I have taken on. You'll need about 8 feet of 5/16" hard fuel line (I bought two 4' lengths), a few crush/compression fittings, tube bender and pipe cutter. My guess is that it cost less than $30 total and an hour of your time.

View attachment 1622126

Can you recommend where to buy what is needed? I want to do the same to mine but don't know where to buy tube, crush/compression fittings, tube bender, and pipe cutter. Also what is the recommended sequence start at the fuel tank running to the carb? I found the below sequence in another thread but it was for a mechanical fuel pump and I have an electric fuel pump and a Weber 38/38 carb.


- Soft fuel line thru floor grommet to hard fuel line, clamped.

- Hard line to soft fuel line (clamped) before filter.

- Soft fuel line clamped to filter.

- Filter output to soft fuel line, clamped.

- Soft fuel line to mechanical fuel pump input, clamped.

- Hard fuel line screwed to mechanical fuel pump output.

- Hard fuel line screwed to carb input.

 

[gcrump01]

Classic Tube has complete brake line kits in stainless. They will make you fuel lines if you send them yours.

Classic Tube


That said, they’re not hard to make. I bent mine myself on the fuel lines & ordered the brake line kit. Hardest part was flaring the ends.

 

[samatulich]

Can you recommend where to buy what is needed? I want to do the same to mine but don't know where to buy tube, crush/compression fittings, tube bender, and pipe cutter. Also what is the recommended sequence start at the fuel tank running to the carb? I found the below sequence in another thread but it was for a mechanical fuel pump and I have an electric fuel pump and a Weber 38/38 carb.


- Soft fuel line thru floor grommet to hard fuel line, clamped.

- Hard line to soft fuel line (clamped) before filter.

- Soft fuel line clamped to filter.

- Filter output to soft fuel line, clamped.

- Soft fuel line to mechanical fuel pump input, clamped.

- Hard fuel line screwed to mechanical fuel pump output.

- Hard fuel line screwed to carb input.

The sequence looks correct. I just went through from the filler neck the carb and replace all OEM soft lines with 5/16" soft lines, and hard lines that run to and from the carb. I didn't mess with the hard lines under the floor pan. You should be able to pick up all the parts (5/16" hard fuel lines, soft lines, tube bender, 5/16" compression fittings and pipe cutter) at your local parts store. I used napa, auto zone, O'rielly's... It is real easy to bend the hard lines, and inexpensive. It did take me a couple tries. Hint: Don't forget that the aircleaner housing has to go back on, the fuel lines run underneath and need to drop enough from the carb to accommodate the housing. Good luck and post pictures.

 

[ryanwk628]

I did mine like others above. I would suggest getting more line than you need because I messed up more than once. Thankfully I had a 25' coil

 

[FJ4013]

The sequence looks correct. I just went through from the filler neck the carb and replace all OEM soft lines with 5/16" soft lines, and hard lines that run to and from the carb. I didn't mess with the hard lines under the floor pan. You should be able to pick up all the parts (5/16" hard fuel lines, soft lines, tube bender, 5/16" compression fittings and pipe cutter) at your local parts store. I used napa, auto zone, O'rielly's... It is real easy to bend the hard lines, and inexpensive. It did take me a couple tries. Hint: Don't forget that the aircleaner housing has to go back on, the fuel lines run underneath and need to drop enough from the carb to accommodate the housing. Good luck and post pictures.

Thanks Sama. Really appreciate the input. I have a NAPA right around the corner from me. Regarding the compression fittings how exactly do they connect to a hard line? Are they crimped on? I've never used compression fittings before. Thanks again.

 

[samatulich]

The compression fitting slips on after the nut. As you tighten down on the nut, the fitting is compressed around the fuel line between the male and female threads. Take a look at the fuel lines you are removing, you should see the compression fitting about 1/8" from the end of the fuel line. I do not believe there is anything holding them in place other than years of being compressed. Just debur the end of your new lines after you cut them, don't want any metal bits to get into th carb.

 

[emac]

I have made a number of hard lines over the years. As others said, it isnt rocket science. Just by extra lines, a decent flare tool, and give it a go. I have several different benders, but most of the time I bend around a socket in a vise. Being left handed sucks, because most tools are made for the other hand! Most auto parts stores have lengths of hard lines. Always good to learn a new trick.

edit: If I am making a fuel line that will connect to a rubber line, I always put a flare on the end to help secure the line. Just makes me feel better.

 

[FJ4013]

Th

I have made a number of hard lines over the years. As others said, it isnt rocket science. Just by extra lines, a decent flare tool, and give it a go. I have several different benders, but most of the time I bend around a socket in a vise. Being left handed sucks, because most tools are made for the other hand! Most auto parts stores have lengths of hard lines. Always good to learn a new trick.

edit: If I am making a fuel line that will connect to a rubber line, I always put a flare on the end to help secure the line. Just makes me feel better.

Thanks Emac. I just Googled flare tool kits and found a few different one ranging in price. I've never used one so if you have a recommendation I would be grateful. Also any recommendations on doing the flare properly would be appreciated too. Thanks.

 

[samatulich]

I didn't flare the ends of mine, didn't think I had to based off the OEM lines that I replaced. I just used the compression fitting, havn't noticed any leaks. I also reused the nuts of the old lines instead of the new ones that came on the fuel lines. I did use a hose clamp on the soft line that slips over the hard line, that did leak initially.
I didn't notice being left handed that the tools were set up for righties, but it make sense, since everything else in life is that way.

 

[emac]

Mine is just a mid price kit that is double flare. I think I paid less than $30. Read the reviews, as there is a lot of junk out there. I suggest reading the instructions carefully and practice several times to get the hang of how it works.A good tubing cutter is a must. On mine, the line has to be clamped very tight to keep it from slipping when you flare it. Hard to explain. Once you see how each step works, it will make sense.

I dont think you have to flare for a clamp, I just thought it would help hold the clamp from slipping. i am sure it will work fine without.

Do you need to flare anything for the fuel lines? Compression fitting dont require a flare, just a clean cut end. Flares are usually on brake lines. I reused all my gas hardlines and dont recall how they attached.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Fuel lines from pump to carb, ect.. are all compression fittings. Make certain you clean the end of the line once you have it formed the way you want to fit the engine and also blow the line out before finishing it . You have to be careful that the line is bottomed into the carb/pump fitting before tightening the nut to compress the ferrule (ring). Once that ferrule is crimped, it's not going to move again.

Brake lines are double flare - those need to be properly formed using a double flaring tool. Be careful with cheap flare tool kits - if that line is out of center they can crack the flare easily from vibration and you lose brake pressure - not funny coming up to a stop light. I've had the Matco kit for years - it's around $60 and has an interlocking frame that helps keep the line properly centered - theirs is the only design I've seen like it - never failed me yet. Lots of good YouTube videos from pro mechanics out there on how to do this stuff - it's worth the time if you haven't done this work before.

Sarge