it's a poor way to do it and it isn't per the ACI code, but it is done quite often...
as far as your idea of using some constuction adhesive between the aluminum and concrete, that would be a great use!
lookin good!
bk
Replacing concrete floor in the garage
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it's a poor way to do it and it isn't per the ACI code, but it is done quite often...
as far as your idea of using some constuction adhesive between the aluminum and concrete, that would be a great use!
lookin good!
bk
There ya go getting all Engineerish on me
For a garage slab though I think it will be fine.
Project I'm on has #4's 12" OC EW T&B in an 8" slab
come on. you must either be an engineer or architect. Those chairs are not really worth it. I have personally poured foundations with and without them and I prefer without. the rebar in the footing trenches was probably hung with bailing wire and the rest picked up with the muck rake. And that is up to code here in Washington. the little chairs flip over all the time when you pour anyway so you end up picking the bar anyway.
You using the plastic chairs or metal strip style?
I usually just use big rocks for the mesh, chairs are nice if you have them handy. Did you not redo the radiant heating on the repour? I would think you'd want that in the north, btw awesome cabinets.
Awl_TEQ
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I didn't have radiant floor heating - just your basic gas heater hung in the corner over the rear man door. You must have read my question to erics_bruisers garage build thread on whether he was doing in floor heating. I like the radiant floor heating. I think its a better way to go both in the house and garage but mine is all forced air.
Awl_TEQ
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I got off my rear yesterday and attached the tread plate to the garage walls.
You likely can't see from this photo but there are lumps and bumps caused by the forms when the foundation walls were poured and to make the baseboards hang evenly I wanted to knock them off.
So I used a chisel and hammer - no problem
And as discussed above a dollop of spare adhesive that was lying around. This is just to stop it from making that tinny sound when hit, the screws will hold them in place. I put three on each panel.
You likely can't see from this photo but there are lumps and bumps caused by the forms when the foundation walls were poured and to make the baseboards hang evenly I wanted to knock them off.
So I used a chisel and hammer - no problem
And as discussed above a dollop of spare adhesive that was lying around. This is just to stop it from making that tinny sound when hit, the screws will hold them in place. I put three on each panel.
Awl_TEQ
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I used some 1 1/4" wood screws to secure the panels to the wood in the top of the foundation walls. Three per panel. The aluminum is soft enough that a wood screw goes right through.
This pic likely looks the same as before - but now the panels are attached to the walls.
As it was only lunchtime by then, and there was no snow on the ground yet, I decided to string up the x-mas lights.
This pic likely looks the same as before - but now the panels are attached to the walls.
As it was only lunchtime by then, and there was no snow on the ground yet, I decided to string up the x-mas lights.
Awl_TEQ
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So this coming Wednesday will be four weeks curing time and I can park inside. I am going to paint the floor next. Likely on Saturday. I have read somewhere on MUD about someone painting the floor before a lot of cure time in order to slow the cure by sealing moisture in?? but I did not want a slow cure for a couple of reasons. I want to park inside and I don't want the floor to have time to settle and sink before hardening. To keep the floor clean I won't park inside before painting. We got an inch of snow last night (got the lights up at just the right time) and although we are running above average temps I definitely want to get my 45 indoors. 
That is one mean garage my friend.
Around these parts you might get some wire mesh for reinforcing. Rebar in a residential garage floor is pretty much not done, except to maybe tie in a slab to a wall.
I am totally jealous of your hoist and cabinets.
Around these parts you might get some wire mesh for reinforcing. Rebar in a residential garage floor is pretty much not done, except to maybe tie in a slab to a wall.
I am totally jealous of your hoist and cabinets.
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Concrete guarantee it will Crack, Get Hard, and no one will Steal it after it cures.
The Codes in Canada are too much I would never put rebar in that application. At least in Idaho. I know the compaction around here. Add water while your backfilling with 6 inches of road mix. Use a Jumping Jack and then a plate compactor and you are set. You rarely get any settling of any kind if you do it that way. (at least here) I hate putting rebar in flatwork because it in most cases it is a waste of money. You are better served making a couple of extra saw cuts for you (controled cracks) Control joints. Then if you do get some settling or cracking issues you just take out those sections without wasting a whole floor.
The Codes in Canada are too much I would never put rebar in that application. At least in Idaho. I know the compaction around here. Add water while your backfilling with 6 inches of road mix. Use a Jumping Jack and then a plate compactor and you are set. You rarely get any settling of any kind if you do it that way. (at least here) I hate putting rebar in flatwork because it in most cases it is a waste of money. You are better served making a couple of extra saw cuts for you (controled cracks) Control joints. Then if you do get some settling or cracking issues you just take out those sections without wasting a whole floor.
Awl_TEQ
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Paint
Moved everything outside yesterday to paint the floor.
Did a good sweep and go dust on the camera lens apparently.
Got all the supplies ready. The paint has been sitting for about three years since we painted the floor at work so the solvents had separated and floated to the top. I didn't have a stirring thingy for the drill and so got a workout - man that stuff at the bottom was thick! I masked off the baseboards with some 2" tape and added the "part B" to the "part A". Once the two parts are mixed you are committed. If you don't spread it you'll end up with a solid bucket of paint. By the time I was done I could tell it was getting thicker. I didn't use all the paint - in fact only a little more than half. I started with 11 gallons and have 5 left after two coats. The fresh concrete absorbed some of the first coat and required another.
Moved everything outside yesterday to paint the floor.
Did a good sweep and go dust on the camera lens apparently.
Got all the supplies ready. The paint has been sitting for about three years since we painted the floor at work so the solvents had separated and floated to the top. I didn't have a stirring thingy for the drill and so got a workout - man that stuff at the bottom was thick! I masked off the baseboards with some 2" tape and added the "part B" to the "part A". Once the two parts are mixed you are committed. If you don't spread it you'll end up with a solid bucket of paint. By the time I was done I could tell it was getting thicker. I didn't use all the paint - in fact only a little more than half. I started with 11 gallons and have 5 left after two coats. The fresh concrete absorbed some of the first coat and required another.
Awl_TEQ
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The label on the cans said a few interesting things. "NOT for residential use" and also no mention of concrete as an application. This is the stuff our paint rep gave us and it has held up great at the shop so I'm not worried about the concrete application. As far as residential use goes, I suspect it is mostly about the fumes as the are quite potent. I used a mask with VOC filter and could not smell it. But it did drive the wife and kids out of the house despite locking the garage to house door before starting and opening the man door and window in the garage for air flow. I would have opened the overhead door but for the outside temperature being below the recommended minimum for the paint. As it was I had to crank up the heat to maintain a good temp. The temp and the age of the paint/ lack of proper mixing led to a slow cure. The label indicated dry to touch at 4 hours but after 11 hours it was still sticking to my fingers. So I covered the Harley and cranked up the heat to leave it overnight.
This morning it was still a bit tacky in places but dry enough to walk on. I'll leave it all day and move the bike and stairs in tonight. This is about as clean as this floor will ever be.
This morning it was still a bit tacky in places but dry enough to walk on. I'll leave it all day and move the bike and stairs in tonight. This is about as clean as this floor will ever be.
agomez
Frijoles
very nice work.
Awl_TEQ
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Thanks agomez
So I guess I'm about done with this thread. I moved the FJ45 back in and unloaded my welding bench. Tomorrow my friend will be over to help bring the blast cabinet and compressor in from the shed.
I've got a hitch to build for my Rav4 and a utility trailer to alter and a 45 to rebuild........thanks for watching
So I guess I'm about done with this thread. I moved the FJ45 back in and unloaded my welding bench. Tomorrow my friend will be over to help bring the blast cabinet and compressor in from the shed.
I've got a hitch to build for my Rav4 and a utility trailer to alter and a 45 to rebuild........thanks for watching
