replacing AHC globes/accumulators (3 Viewers)

[David310]

Some more queries

Is there a link anywhere to official toyota literature that details how long it should take to fit and calibrate 4 new globes?

Have any of you guys in North America got any advise on buying AHC fluid online?

Is it something that is ok ship internationally?

Any aussies on here buy AHC fluid online?

Im just prpearing for my local dealer to pull some crap out of his hat like "we dont have fluid" etc etc

No problem ordering online through Amazon although I have seen certain websites prevent shipping due to hazardous chemicals.

 

[willyroo]

Any aussies on here buy AHC fluid online?

Before I bought from my local Toyota dealer, I asked these guys "when are you getting more stock" - apparently mid-August. Just tell your local Toyota dealer Motorama Mooroka (Brisbane) has stock, so there's definitely some in the warehouse.

TOYOTA SUSPENSION FLUID 2.5 LITRE AHC NEW GENUINE TIN MADE IN JAPAN | eBay Australia

Suspension Fluid - 2.5L can - AHC. Our parts also carry a 24-month Toyota Warranty so you can feel confident with every service and repair. Toyota Authorised Dealer - Genuine Parts & Accessories. TOYOTA ACCESSORIES.

www.ebay.com.au

 

[rmhrc630]

Before I bought from my local Toyota dealer, I asked these guys "when are you getting more stock" - apparently mid-August. Just tell your local Toyota dealer Motorama Mooroka (Brisbane) has stock, so there's definitely some in the warehouse.

TOYOTA SUSPENSION FLUID 2.5 LITRE AHC NEW GENUINE TIN MADE IN JAPAN | eBay Australia

Suspension Fluid - 2.5L can - AHC. Our parts also carry a 24-month Toyota Warranty so you can feel confident with every service and repair. Toyota Authorised Dealer - Genuine Parts & Accessories. TOYOTA ACCESSORIES.

www.ebay.com.au

so that ebay link says they're out?

Can one call Motorama Mooroka and they'll send south to me?

 

[IndroCruise]

so that ebay link says they're out?

Can one call Motorama Mooroka and they'll send south to me?

AHC Suspension Fluid is used worldwide in

LC100 1998-2007 (where AHC/TEMS is fitted -- rare in Australia, 2005-2007 'Sahara' model only),
LC200 2007-2022 (where KDSS or AHC/TEMS is fitted, KDSS is common but AHC was not available in Australia),
LC300 2022 onwards (GR Sport only where e-KDSS is fitted, AHC/AVS is not available in Australia),
LX470 1998-2007 (all factory-fitted with AHC/TEMS),
LX570 2007-2022 (all factory-fitted with revised version of AHC/AVS but using same fluid),
LX600 2022 onwards (all factory-fitted with revised version of AHC/AVS but using same fluid)

KDSS- and e-KDSS-equipped vehicles use the same suspension fluid as for AHC-equipped vehicles.

"Toyota Suspension Fluid AHC" (Part Number 08886-01805) is made by blending additives with a light mineral oil in batches in Toyota/Lexus packaging for Toyota/Lexus by Japanese oil company Idemitsu Kosan Co. Ltd. It is marketed in Asia-Australia in 2.5 litre cans. It may be blended in local facilities and packaged differently with a different Part Number in larger markets -- EU, UK, USA, Africa, Others.

Even though the fluid is is used in a variety of Toyota/Lexus vehicles across several different suspensions, from time to time there are stock-outs in Australia and maybe elsewhere while the next batch is awaited.

Supplies of AHC Fluid seem to be tight in Australia just now. The usual Australian eBay sources are showing no stock or showing no listing of the product. SydneyCityParts | eBay Stores - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/sydneycityparts has been a good source of supply in the past but is showing no listing at the moment.

As mentioned by @willyroo , some Toyota or Lexus Dealers may still have stocks and many are willing to send interstate in Australia. Suggest call multiple Dealers directly -- website details of stockholdings may not be up to date.

Prices vary a bit but the differences are not prohibitive. Personal importing is possible but freight is expensive. It is better to pursue local supply.

Several IH8MUD Members have discussed the use of alternative fluids in the AHC system. Personally, I prefer to stay with the specified Toyota/Lexus product. In a remote breakdown situation, maybe I would consider another light mineral oil but I would have to be desperate -- and I have found that with routine servicing, monitoring of pressures and 'globe' condition, and planned fluid changes, that the AHC/TEMS is completely reliable -- more reliable than the brake system which also is electro-hydraulic with a pressurised accumulator and with its own Electronic Control Unit.

AVOID anything that looks like it is or might be related to Brake Fluid in the AHC/TEMS system. Brake Fluids are known to destroy 'globe' membranes and other seals and parts in the AHC/TEMS system.

It is not essential, but a tool such as shown at this link helps avoid a lot of mess in the bleeding process:

ETWH10 Brake Bleeder Wrench 10mm - https://www.endeavourtools.com.au/ETWH10-brake-bleeder-wrench

 

[willyroo]

so that ebay link says they're out?

 

[bruisecruise]

I recently replaced the globes on my 200 series (former 100 series owner) and there's been some really detailed discussions in this thread about globes I'm hoping to piggyback on. The globes themselves are basically unchanged between the models, just different pressures and some small interface changes.

My original symptoms were the same sort of uncharacteristically 'rough ride', however after replacing my globes:
1. It now takes 30 seconds or longer to go from L -> N. Moving from N -> H goes quickly (~15 seconds, in spec).
2. The ride feels more confident but small cracks in the road still send shudders through the cabin, steering wheel, etc. I.e. little improvement.

Q1: 'Do gradations indicate healthy globes?'

The gradations measure the amount of fluid entering the system and are usually discussed as:
1. Low gradation count indicates that fluid is not being 'pushed back' into the reservoir by pressure in the globes. The globe has lost all pressure or the diaphragm has ruptured.
2. High gradation count indicates 'healthy' globes as the diaphragm expands when line pressure is reduced and forces fluid back into the reservoir.

Can there be a 3rd scenario such that:
1. Pressure in the sphere is great enough to return fluid to the reservoir and results in a high gradation count.
2. Pressure in the sphere is low enough that the diaphragm 'bottoms out' on the globe chamber and provides no spring.

In the 3rd scenario you wouldn't be able to check for a 'bad' globe with a pencil test, because there is sufficient pressure in the globe to resist the pencil, and you'd have to have a method to directly measure the pressure to be sure. @IndroCruise I think you made some points along these lines as well, any thoughts here? My gradations are in the healthy range (>5 for the 200 series reservoir).

Some illustrations with sample values, PG = Pressure Globe, PL = Pressure Line:

Normal neutral setting, the line pressure pushes the diaphragm into an 'ideal' location for spring action.

Normal low setting, the globe returns fluid to the reservoir as it's pressure exceeds the line pressure.

When globe pressure is low, i.e. it will return some fluid but is bottomed out, no spring.

Q2: Where is all this fluid going during my L to N lift?

Monitoring my pump pressure during my low to neutral transition I see a kind of plateau at about 3.5-5 MPa. This indicates the pump is building pressure but the vehicle is barely moving at all. A couple of things might be happening:
1. The pump is building pressure very slowly, i.e. reduced flow rate somehow.
2. The volume inside the system is changing, this should be somewhat expected because the globe membranes are being pushed back.
3. There is something compressible besides the globes, like a big air pocket, hiding somewhere in the system.

Considering #1 above, the system seems to build pressure for the accumulator in a reasonable amount of time and the time from N -> H (albeit with help from the accumulator) goes perfectly smoothly, even after the kick from the accumulator.

Considering #3 above, I've bled the system countless times, reversed it onto ramps to raise the reservoir to a higher point, but no significant air ever seems to come out (the only air I think I see is probably bubbles forming from the fluid entering my bleeder tube). However this seems like it's always a possibility, so I'll keep it on the table.

Considering #2 above I'm hoping to find a way to rule this out. After I replaced the globes I stupidly threw out the old OEM ones (my car is only 48k miles so they might have been perfectly fine), so I can't easily isolate the new globes as an issue. @suprarx7nut Your test bench for determining globe pressure is really interesting, any luck with that?

 

[suprarx7nut]

I recently replaced the globes on my 200 series (former 100 series owner) and there's been some really detailed discussions in this thread about globes I'm hoping to piggyback on. The globes themselves are basically unchanged between the models, just different pressures and some small interface changes.

My original symptoms were the same sort of uncharacteristically 'rough ride', however after replacing my globes:
1. It now takes 30 seconds or longer to go from L -> N. Moving from N -> H goes quickly (~15 seconds, in spec).
2. The ride feels more confident but small cracks in the road still send shudders through the cabin, steering wheel, etc. I.e. little improvement.

Q1: 'Do gradations indicate healthy globes?'

The gradations measure the amount of fluid entering the system and are usually discussed as:
1. Low gradation count indicates that fluid is not being 'pushed back' into the reservoir by pressure in the globes. The globe has lost all pressure or the diaphragm has ruptured.
2. High gradation count indicates 'healthy' globes as the diaphragm expands when line pressure is reduced and forces fluid back into the reservoir.

Can there be a 3rd scenario such that:
1. Pressure in the sphere is great enough to return fluid to the reservoir and results in a high gradation count.
2. Pressure in the sphere is low enough that the diaphragm 'bottoms out' on the globe chamber and provides no spring.

In the 3rd scenario you wouldn't be able to check for a 'bad' globe with a pencil test, because there is sufficient pressure in the globe to resist the pencil, and you'd have to have a method to directly measure the pressure to be sure. @IndroCruise I think you made some points along these lines as well, any thoughts here? My gradations are in the healthy range (>5 for the 200 series reservoir).

Some illustrations with sample values, PG = Pressure Globe, PL = Pressure Line:

Normal neutral setting, the line pressure pushes the diaphragm into an 'ideal' location for spring action.
View attachment 3394592

Normal low setting, the globe returns fluid to the reservoir as it's pressure exceeds the line pressure.
View attachment 3394593

When globe pressure is low, i.e. it will return some fluid but is bottomed out, no spring.
View attachment 3394594


Q2: Where is all this fluid going during my L to N lift?

Monitoring my pump pressure during my low to neutral transition I see a kind of plateau at about 3.5-5 MPa. This indicates the pump is building pressure but the vehicle is barely moving at all. A couple of things might be happening:
1. The pump is building pressure very slowly, i.e. reduced flow rate somehow.
2. The volume inside the system is changing, this should be somewhat expected because the globe membranes are being pushed back.
3. There is something compressible besides the globes, like a big air pocket, hiding somewhere in the system.

Considering #1 above, the system seems to build pressure for the accumulator in a reasonable amount of time and the time from N -> H (albeit with help from the accumulator) goes perfectly smoothly, even after the kick from the accumulator.

Considering #3 above, I've bled the system countless times, reversed it onto ramps to raise the reservoir to a higher point, but no significant air ever seems to come out (the only air I think I see is probably bubbles forming from the fluid entering my bleeder tube). However this seems like it's always a possibility, so I'll keep it on the table.

Considering #2 above I'm hoping to find a way to rule this out. After I replaced the globes I stupidly threw out the old OEM ones (my car is only 48k miles so they might have been perfectly fine), so I can't easily isolate the new globes as an issue. @suprarx7nut Your test bench for determining globe pressure is really interesting, any luck with that?

Nice work on a quality post.

I have not made a bench test setup. I would LOVE to and have a few sets of globes sitting in the shop. The ADGU drawer/sleeper business has taken priority so I haven't gotten to monkey around with the tester design.

I think you could absolutely have a situation #3 as you describe. The pressure in the globes is immense. There's certainly a middle ground where the globe is leaking, but still holds sufficient pressure to make the "pencil test" unhelpful. The pencil would have a tiny area requiring a LOT of pressure to deflect a partially filled globe. An eraser is around 1/4" wide. That means the 300+ psi of a healthy globe would require 4,800 lbs of force on the end of pencil to compress. A globe could be bad at 1/4 of that pressure and still require 1000+ lbs of force on that pencil to move the diaphragm. I think the pencil test helps when the globe is 100% dead and ruptured. I do not believe it helps ID a mostly deflated globe.

I'd like to learn more about the 200 system. It's more complex, but I hope it also include more diagnostic opportunity than the relatively limited setup on the 100. The 100 involves a healthy amount of educated guessing during diagnostics.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I recently replaced the globes on my 200 series (former 100 series owner) and there's been some really detailed discussions in this thread about globes I'm hoping to piggyback on. The globes themselves are basically unchanged between the models, just different pressures and some small interface changes.

My original symptoms were the same sort of uncharacteristically 'rough ride', however after replacing my globes:
1. It now takes 30 seconds or longer to go from L -> N. Moving from N -> H goes quickly (~15 seconds, in spec).
2. The ride feels more confident but small cracks in the road still send shudders through the cabin, steering wheel, etc. I.e. little improvement.

Q1: 'Do gradations indicate healthy globes?'

The gradations measure the amount of fluid entering the system and are usually discussed as:
1. Low gradation count indicates that fluid is not being 'pushed back' into the reservoir by pressure in the globes. The globe has lost all pressure or the diaphragm has ruptured.
2. High gradation count indicates 'healthy' globes as the diaphragm expands when line pressure is reduced and forces fluid back into the reservoir.

Can there be a 3rd scenario such that:
1. Pressure in the sphere is great enough to return fluid to the reservoir and results in a high gradation count.
2. Pressure in the sphere is low enough that the diaphragm 'bottoms out' on the globe chamber and provides no spring.

In the 3rd scenario you wouldn't be able to check for a 'bad' globe with a pencil test, because there is sufficient pressure in the globe to resist the pencil, and you'd have to have a method to directly measure the pressure to be sure. @IndroCruise I think you made some points along these lines as well, any thoughts here? My gradations are in the healthy range (>5 for the 200 series reservoir).

Some illustrations with sample values, PG = Pressure Globe, PL = Pressure Line:

Normal neutral setting, the line pressure pushes the diaphragm into an 'ideal' location for spring action.
View attachment 3394592

Normal low setting, the globe returns fluid to the reservoir as it's pressure exceeds the line pressure.
View attachment 3394593

When globe pressure is low, i.e. it will return some fluid but is bottomed out, no spring.
View attachment 3394594


Q2: Where is all this fluid going during my L to N lift?

Monitoring my pump pressure during my low to neutral transition I see a kind of plateau at about 3.5-5 MPa. This indicates the pump is building pressure but the vehicle is barely moving at all. A couple of things might be happening:
1. The pump is building pressure very slowly, i.e. reduced flow rate somehow.
2. The volume inside the system is changing, this should be somewhat expected because the globe membranes are being pushed back.
3. There is something compressible besides the globes, like a big air pocket, hiding somewhere in the system.

Considering #1 above, the system seems to build pressure for the accumulator in a reasonable amount of time and the time from N -> H (albeit with help from the accumulator) goes perfectly smoothly, even after the kick from the accumulator.

Considering #3 above, I've bled the system countless times, reversed it onto ramps to raise the reservoir to a higher point, but no significant air ever seems to come out (the only air I think I see is probably bubbles forming from the fluid entering my bleeder tube). However this seems like it's always a possibility, so I'll keep it on the table.

Considering #2 above I'm hoping to find a way to rule this out. After I replaced the globes I stupidly threw out the old OEM ones (my car is only 48k miles so they might have been perfectly fine), so I can't easily isolate the new globes as an issue. @suprarx7nut Your test bench for determining globe pressure is really interesting, any luck with that?

I am pretty sure, I had the situation #3 you described here. My globes were only 2 years old with abt 25k miles on them. I had 12+ graduations and great L-N and N-H times. But the truck was BOUNCY in the rear. It felt that there was no dampening at all in the rear.

I replaced the globes and did pencil test on one of them and it felt new, i.e. there was no give in the globe membrane. Unfortunately, the other was destroyed when I was taking it off so I can't speak to it's condition.

One clear tell-tale sign was near constant stream of air bubbles from the rear bleeder nipples! I could bleed out the air out and then come back in a few hours and see air in the stream again!

 

[uHu]

I recently replaced the globes on my 200 series (former 100 series owner) and there's been some really detailed discussions in this thread about globes I'm hoping to piggyback on. The globes themselves are basically unchanged between the models, just different pressures and some small interface changes.

My original symptoms were the same sort of uncharacteristically 'rough ride', however after replacing my globes:
1. It now takes 30 seconds or longer to go from L -> N. Moving from N -> H goes quickly (~15 seconds, in spec).
2. The ride feels more confident but small cracks in the road still send shudders through the cabin, steering wheel, etc. I.e. little improvement.

Q1: 'Do gradations indicate healthy globes?'

The gradations measure the amount of fluid entering the system and are usually discussed as:
1. Low gradation count indicates that fluid is not being 'pushed back' into the reservoir by pressure in the globes. The globe has lost all pressure or the diaphragm has ruptured.
2. High gradation count indicates 'healthy' globes as the diaphragm expands when line pressure is reduced and forces fluid back into the reservoir.

Can there be a 3rd scenario such that:
1. Pressure in the sphere is great enough to return fluid to the reservoir and results in a high gradation count.
2. Pressure in the sphere is low enough that the diaphragm 'bottoms out' on the globe chamber and provides no spring.

In the 3rd scenario you wouldn't be able to check for a 'bad' globe with a pencil test, because there is sufficient pressure in the globe to resist the pencil, and you'd have to have a method to directly measure the pressure to be sure. @IndroCruise I think you made some points along these lines as well, any thoughts here? My gradations are in the healthy range (>5 for the 200 series reservoir).

Some illustrations with sample values, PG = Pressure Globe, PL = Pressure Line:

Re Q1 - 3rd scenario:
No, there can not be such a scenario. Because:
1 - The pressure is always the same on both sides of the membrane/diaphragm, as long as it is not bottomed out in any direction. I.e. in all normal working conditions PG=PL, with good globes.
2 - As long as the membrane is not bottoming out in any direction, you have the max # of graduations. When the globe has lost so much gas volume (charge pressure) that it starts to bottom out at the highest pressure (= highest lift), the graduation count will start going down as the globe can not anymore take any more fluid as the pressure goes past the bottoming-out-pressure-point. This is when you can start to feel a reduced suspension performance.

When the counts start going down, the suspension will still perform well at normal height and normal loads, because you don't normally move into the pressure area of bottoming out. When you do get a too high pressure for a fraction of a sec, the damping and suspension travel will be ok when that pressure fluke is past, and you might not notice any reduced comfort or handling. Increased cargo loads or vehicle lift height (= higher pressure) will make the reduced performance more noticeable.
As the charge volume keeps going down over time, the reduced performance will be noticeable. Also, at the start, the bottoming out is not complete, i.e. not the whole membrane will make contact, so you still have some suspension travel. Only when the charge level goes even further down, the suspension travel is noticeably hindered.

Another situation is when only one globe fails completely. Then you still have a fairly good graduation count, but no suspension on one wheel when the gate valves are closed. As long as you drive straight, the gate valves are open, and the suspension on one axle is shared fully between two globes, and one bad globe is not immediately noticeable. This could be the 3rd scenario for many trucks where there is "something wrong, but everything checks out right". That's when we need that globe test station.

 

[BullElk]

FYI....I just purchased a 2.5 L can of brand new AHC fluid for a grand total of $31.39

 

[bruisecruise]

FYI....I just purchased a 2.5 L can of brand new AHC fluid for a grand total of $31.39

That's a steal, from where?

 

[BullElk]

That's a steal, from where?

The Getting Place on Got Street.

Springhill Toyota in Mobile, AL.

The Lexus dealership next door said they had it for like $50 and it was a newly formulated AHC fluid only in the 2.5 L cans. I then went online and bought it thru the adjacent Toyota dealership for $31.39 and picked it up today.

Old vs. New

 

[rmhrc630]

Had my accumulators/globes all changed over and re-caled by Toyota. I also had them adjust my torsion bars due to winch/bullbar/compressor being fitted up front.

Vehicle had done 243k km. And it’s a diesel engine so heavier front end that the v8. I presume in doing a calibration Toyota allow for the extra weight and or adjust the TBs.

Globes were the original ones in the vehicle

Only done about an hours driving - small sharp bump compliance isn’t ground breakingly different but I suspect it will get better. There’s a marginal difference - vehicle does feel a tiny bit more wallowy.

Is there a bed in time with new globes ?


I’ve kept the old globes - what’s the pencil test I’ve read about ?

 

[uHu]

Had my accumulators/globes all changed over and re-caled by Toyota. I also had them adjust my torsion bars due to winch/bullbar/compressor being fitted up front.

Vehicle had done 243k km. And it’s a diesel engine so heavier front end that the v8. I presume in doing a calibration Toyota allow for the extra weight and or adjust the TBs.

Globes were the original ones in the vehicle

Only done about an hours driving - small sharp bump compliance isn’t ground breakingly different but I suspect it will get better. There’s a marginal difference - vehicle does feel a tiny bit more wallowy.

Is there a bed in time with new globes ?

I’ve kept the old globes - what’s the pencil test I’ve read about ?

There is no recalibration of new globes. The pressure will be the same whatever the state of the globes, only the volume of fluid pumped into them will increase as they age.

Calibration of the ahc includes height adjustment, balancing L/R, and adjusting steel springs to get the pressure within specs. (I.e. adjust torsion bars and change coils).

Small sharp bumps annoyance is likely to come from type of tyre or too high tyre pressure. Or worn bushings etc.

No bed-in time.

The pencil test can only test is there is any pressure left at all in the globes. If you can push the pencil all the way in, there is no pressure. If you can't press the membrane in, there is some pressure, but even if you can't push it in at all, the pressure may be much to low. Pressure testing can be done, just not with a pencil.

 

[jleedog]

Here's something I’ve provided to others:

I've done the changeouts two ways: combined with a full bleed and fluid replacement and I've tried a "low fluid loss method". You could probably combine both methods too. Have you got your 36mm ford fan clutch wrench from auto zone and a spare can of fluid?
Method 1. Last globe changeout I did I dropped it to L, engine OFF, bleed all 5 bleeders down to the point where fluid stops flowing (total about 1 liter) so the truck is sitting on the bump stops and then sucked out the reservoir and dumped in a full can of fresh fluid as per my quick and easy 1 can method. So you've got truck on bumps, no pressure behind any globes and a full reservoir. Unscrew old and replace the new globes, you can try and put a bit of fresh fluid in the throats of each globe but it just spills out really, but do wet the O ring with fluid. There is some spec for globe tightness but I just tighten them up and give them a bit of a nudge. After all the fan clutch wrench is 13 or 14 in long so you've got plenty of leverage there. I guess I tighten them to maybe 40 ft lbs? So when you've done the four globes start her up and it will recharge everything and then raise her to N. The fluid level in the reservoir should be a bit above max. Turn her OFF and give each corner a quick bleed, just an ounce or three till there are no bubbles. Start her up again and confirm the fluid level is good, if the level is a bit over max is ok too and you're done.
The other low fluid loss way I've done it is:
Vehicle off, at N height and jacked up the front so both front wheels are off the ground. Crack a front bleeder to relieve pressure (both sides will depressurize as they are hydraulically connected) then spin off/spin on the new globe after wetting the o ring with fluid. Move over to the other side and repeat, crack the bleeder just to make sure there is no pressure but it'll be fine. Tighten the front up, drop her back on the ground and then do the back the same way, both wheels off the ground, relieve pressure and spin off/spin on the new. Keep approximate track of just how much fluid you've drained at each corner and add that much fresh back into the reservoir, plus a cup or two for bleeding each corner. You won't bleed that much out with the wheels off the ground and the shock actuators at full extension. On the ground start her up and give each corner a bleed till no bubbles. I try and keep track of how much I'm bleeding out so I don't run the risk off getting too low in the reservoir. A quick confirmation check bleed at the height accumulator is probably worth it too. Hope this helps.

FYI - I couldn’t easily find, via google & ih8mud, the torque spec for the globes/accumulator/spheres

Finally found it in the manual; they’re called “Gas Chambers” in the manual and should be torqued to 66 ft-lbs … unless you are fancy and have the SST, in which it should be at 18 ft-lbs. See images below

Hope this is helpful to others.

Now if i only could find the part number for the bleeder screw, specific to the height accumulator, to help my OCD…

 

[Jcreme]

Only done about an hours driving - small sharp bump compliance isn’t ground breakingly different but I suspect it will get better. There’s a marginal difference - vehicle does feel a tiny bit more wallowy.

Is there a bed in time with new globes ?

I'd also suggest letting the vehicle sit with the AHC in Hi for an hour or two, then Lo and let it sit for a few minutes. And do this for a few cycles. This removes trace amounts of gas in the sytem. I did this after major work on my sytem and went from "pretty good" to "whoa this thing is a limousine!"

The theory is this: The high pressure of putting the system in high allows trace amounts of gas to be dissolved into the oil; leaving it for an extended period gives this time to happen. Putting it in low moves the maximum amount of fluid to the reservoir (at 0psi) and allows that gas to break out of the oil again. A few cycles is required.

I also advise that you do this every so often to facilitate cycling the fluid through the reservoir.

 

[IndroCruise]

FYI - I couldn’t easily find, via google & ih8mud, the torque spec for the globes/accumulator/spheres

Finally found it in the manual; they’re called “Gas Chambers” in the manual and should be torqued to 66 ft-lbs … unless you are fancy and have the SST, in which it should be at 18 ft-lbs. See images below

Hope this is helpful to others.

Now if i only could find the part number for the bleeder screw, specific to the height accumulator, to help my OCD…


View attachment 3429960

View attachment 3429961

"Now if i only could find the part number for the bleeder screw, specific to the height accumulator, to help my OCD…"

The caps are strongly recommended for future use as well -- they provide some protection to these AHC bleeder screws and reduce the likelihood of corrosion and debris making them difficult to remove next time.

It is a PITA to remove a broken bleeder screw -- and especially high drama in the case of a broken bleeder at the Height Control Accumulator (long cylinder midway along the LHS chassis rail) -- so try to avoid this. Suggest be generous with thread penetrating fluid a few days before starting. If stuck, suggest avoid excessive leverage, try using a hammer to tap a six-sided tightly-fitting 10mm wrench on the bleeder -- firmly but not excessively -- using the vibrations to try and cause the thread to move without breaking the screw or rounding the nut-end..

 

[jleedog]

Thanks @IndroCruise

Was able to get all 5 bleeder screws off with your advice (thankfully the car has lived in California all of its life)

So sounds like everyone is using the same bleeder screw related to the globes with the height control accumulator?

Makes sense, as I had called a bunch of local Toyota dealers, and none of them could give me a part number for the bleeder attached to the height control accumulator.

Back in 2019 PADDO had posted about the globe and height bleeders being different (pasted below). Not sure why Toyota doesn’t sell a specific height control bleeder, since it obviously existed, but sounds like I’m better off putting in a new globe screw into the height control vs. re-using the 17yr old existing height screw?

“Just had a chance to look at some spare parts and noticed that on both spare height accumulators (and my fitted one) I’ve got the bleeder is internally drilled to ~2.6mm into a 5.3mm OD bleeder body stock and the bleeders for the damper assemblies are drilled to ~1.9mm for the same OD body: there’s less wall thickness for height accumulator bleeders (at least the ones I checked) hence they’ll be more prone to shearing if there’s any corrosion. One small mystery solved . In both cases the thread OD measured 6.7mm and the seat tapers appeared very similar, not identical, but I suspect a damper assembly bleeder would seat properly under pressure if used in the height accumulator and vice versa. You could probably drill, say, to 5mm without damaging the height accumulators thread. A 4mm or 5mm reverse twist drill would be my choice. Spot heating the broken stub might be OK but I definitely wouldn’t heat soak the height accumulator body as you’ve got hydraulic fluid, a solenoid and a 1000psi of nitrogen in close proximity. The less then perfect, but functional, work around would be to leave the busted height accumulator bleeder stub in place and just bleed around it by letting the accumulator discharge its fluid content during a raise cycle and turning the vehicle off before the pump starts to recharge it (then siphon off and bleed down to the bump stops) or by using Techstream utility you can activate the height accumulator multiple times and it will discharge back to tank where you can siphon off and bleed down to the bump stops. Either way you’ve discharged the old fluid out of the height accumulator.” - PADDO

 

[Longmark999]

I finished this job recently, once again thanks to all the great posts and information here. I ordered the globes from JDM Planet and they were $615 with shipping and took about 1.5 weeks to arrive. The only thing I did outside of the procedures described here was to break loose the globes before lowering the vehicle to do the bleed. I was concerned that I wouldn't have enough room to turn the fan clutch wrench after the vehicle had dropped to it's bump stops. The other thing I did that I can't recall was mentioned here was to open the bleed screw before removing the globes to relieve any remaining pressure that might have existed in the globes. Oh, and the 3/16" ID hose popped off the bleeder once or twice while I was removing the globes but there was so little fluid left that it didn't cause any problems. Thanks again to everyone on IH8MUD for all the great information here.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I finished this job recently, once again thanks to all the great posts and information here. I ordered the globes from JDM Planet and they were $615 with shipping and took about 1.5 weeks to arrive. The only thing I did outside of the procedures described here was to break loose the globes before lowering the vehicle to do the bleed. I was concerned that I wouldn't have enough room to turn the fan clutch wrench after the vehicle had dropped to it's bump stops. The other thing I did that I can't recall was mentioned here was to open the bleed screw before removing the globes to relieve any remaining pressure that might have existed in the globes. Oh, and the 3/16" ID hose popped off the bleeder once or twice while I was removing the globes but there was so little fluid left that it didn't cause any problems. Thanks again to everyone on IH8MUD for all the great information here.

Glad yours came off easy. Mine were only about 2 years old and fought be hard! I ended up drilling a hole in it, then stuck a screw driver and used a ratchet strap to get it to move!
Order in which tools were used: