replacing AHC globes/accumulators (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Great work!! Yes, I know what you mean about screwing the new ones in. It's maddening lining up the threads. My neck and arms were so sore from turning and turning and turning, I also noticed that the ride seemed to improve even more after a few days of daily driving.
 
Thats good to know about it getting even better. Yeah I figured I was going to be telling myself I should've done this a long time ago.
. I still have a clunk in the rear when hitting decently bumpy roads. Wondering if its my springs. Its not horrible but it bothers me enough ill address it after I get the squeaky front end and drivers window fixed.
I greatly appreciate the advice to go ahead with ordering from IMPEX. Can't beat OEM parts at a better price than anyone else
 
Great work!! Yes, I know what you mean about screwing the new ones in. It's maddening lining up the threads. My neck and arms were so sore from turning and turning and turning, I also noticed that the ride seemed to improve even more after a few days of daily driving.

In my experience, bleeding just a tad to let the last gas bubbles out in a couple of days made a very pleasant difference.. It helps to put the vehicle on a slightly uneven surface and make this tiny burst from the elevated side. YMMV
P.S. I didn't have to add fluid after that
 
Just replaced the globes, turned on the vehicle to let it adjust height, then bled all the valves to get the air bubbles out. Something is not right now as it's not raising or lowering and the AHC light on the dash is blinking "off". I even bled the pump or whatever that is on the drivers side between the front and rear globes. After the last bit of charcoal gray fluid came out of that pump no fluid at all comes out. Not sure how to get this working.
 
Just replaced the globes, turned on the vehicle to let it adjust height, then bled all the valves to get the air bubbles out. Something is not right now as it's not raising or lowering and the AHC light on the dash is blinking "off". I even bled the pump or whatever that is on the drivers side between the front and rear globes. After the last bit of charcoal gray fluid came out of that pump no fluid at all comes out. Not sure how to get this working.
What’s the history of the ahc system like on your rig?
 
I've only owned this vehicle for 10K miles so don't have a lot of history. There was only one previous owner and I don't any service details on AHC services. I replaced the fluid right when I bought it and it worked fine until a few weeks ago it started bouncing when I'd hit a bump. Doesn't bounce anymore but it also doesn't seem to raise or lower.
 
I've only owned this vehicle for 10K miles so don't have a lot of history. There was only one previous owner and I don't any service details on AHC services. I replaced the fluid right when I bought it and it worked fine until a few weeks ago it started bouncing when I'd hit a bump. Doesn't bounce anymore but it also doesn't seem to raise or lower.
To state the obvious without offence, check that all doors and rear hatch are closed -- AHC system is interlocked with door switches and does not work with doors open.

Then suggest use Techstream if possible to see whether any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) are showing at the ECU – this may provide a lead on the current problem.

Given the state of the fluid, it does seem that bleeding a few more times might be a good place to start – best done after raising and lowering the vehicle – but your vehicle is refusing to raise/lower!!

Suggest attempt the “Height Control Operation Test” (also called the “Active Test”) per Page 6 of the attachment and see whether that allows some raise/lower movement. [Where this test calls for Special Service Tool (SST) 09843-18020, just use an unbent paper clip or similar bridging connector between terminals Ts and E1 at DLC1. The voltages here are low, around 4.5 volts, but do not mix up the terminals). DLC1 is the socket with a black cover showing the word DIAGNOSTIC in the engine bay above RH Front wheel arch – may be different location in LHD vehicles. Note: This test bypasses the ECU and will result in multiple flashing lights in the instrument cluster -- these will revert to normal when the bridge at DLC1 is removed].

There are other possible problems – but best first to be confident that system is purged of air.

If this does not work, please advise – then the next likely issue can be considered. Hopefully, there is nothing complicated like a system blockage caused by ancient fluid and detritus impeding pressure and flow in the system -- but start with easy stuff first.
 

Attachments

  • AHC suspension precheck and damper check.pdf
    406.1 KB · Views: 104
Reading this thread I am so wanting to order new globes! I have like 5 graduations and the ride is pretty bouncy. The vehicle does raise and lower though.

problem for me is I just bought all new OEM front control arms as well as one new front drive shaft and tie rod ends…. Spent a pretty penny on all that stuff.
 
I feel your pain. I've been going from one thing to the next with my 98. Everytime I think I'm doing things on my time something else goes. The life of a 23 yr old vehicle w/ 347k. I'd still rather be driving it than anything else I see on the roads, I was getting ready to do upper and lower ball joints and my ac compressor started chattering everytime it turns on.
At only 5 graduations you'll love the ride after y8u make the switch.
 
To state the obvious without offence, check that all doors and rear hatch are closed -- AHC system is interlocked with door switches and does not work with doors open.

Then suggest use Techstream if possible to see whether any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) are showing at the ECU – this may provide a lead on the current problem.

Given the state of the fluid, it does seem that bleeding a few more times might be a good place to start – best done after raising and lowering the vehicle – but your vehicle is refusing to raise/lower!!

Suggest attempt the “Height Control Operation Test” (also called the “Active Test”) per Page 6 of the attachment and see whether that allows some raise/lower movement. [Where this test calls for Special Service Tool (SST) 09843-18020, just use an unbent paper clip or similar bridging connector between terminals Ts and E1 at DLC1. The voltages here are low, around 4.5 volts, but do not mix up the terminals). DLC1 is the socket with a black cover showing the word DIAGNOSTIC in the engine bay above RH Front wheel arch – may be different location in LHD vehicles. Note: This test bypasses the ECU and will result in multiple flashing lights in the instrument cluster -- these will revert to normal when the bridge at DLC1 is removed].

There are other possible problems – but best first to be confident that system is purged of air.

If this does not work, please advise – then the next likely issue can be considered. Hopefully, there is nothing complicated like a system blockage caused by ancient fluid and detritus impeding pressure and flow in the system -- but start with easy stuff first.
Thanks for all the help. I'll try and work on it more over the weekend.
 
Did you move from Maine to Atlanta or v.versa😁
Decided to do a post-vaccination loop of the continental US.

I’ve done virtually all the work on my truck since I got it two years ago, but didn’t want to take on the timing belt.

ACC had bailed me out when I thought I had problems on the drive home after purchasing it in Mobile, AL, and I loved the vibe there, so I decided to route through Atlanta and get them to do the timing belt, fix the stuff I broke with my own “handiwork” (I had stripped the oil pan plug threads), and eyeball everything else.

They noticed a leak in an AC gasket, and since I’ve mostly been in the southwest, that was a lifesaver. (104 degrees at 5:30 pm in Kanab, UT, last evening.) They also spotted and fixed an oil leak during the timing belt swap (that would have left me stranded for a while, I had sourced all the parts myself but did not anticipate that.)

Back to the thread topic, it’s nice tooling around the US of A on fully functioning globes and when I pop it into high to reach an NFS camping spot, I feel like an actual Mudder. I’m genuinely pleased that so many have found this Impex deal to be doable. The “list price” of this repair was one of my top concerns when buying the truck, and to pull it off for less than a set of tires was a big relief.
 
purchasing it in Mobile, AL
What did you buy in Mobile and why didn’t I buy it I wonder? Hmmmm. I may be losing my game a bit
 
What did you buy in Mobile and why didn’t I buy it I wonder? Hmmmm. I may be losing my game a bit
06 LX470 with 142k. Had been traded in to the Lexus dealer there in Feb of '19.

I had been hunting on the internet for months for something in the south (rust is pernicious in my neck of the woods), and at that time you had to pounce immediately. This one never got to the dealer’s car wash/cleanup.

I forget the name of the app I was using, but it basically hoovered in every new listing that went into some centralized database. It’d pick things up before the trucks even made it to the dealer’s web site.

The salesman there was a fabulously straight shooter. I suspect they have a higher margin on used cars than new, so they cut a pretty reasonable deal with me.
 
To state the obvious without offence, check that all doors and rear hatch are closed -- AHC system is interlocked with door switches and does not work with doors open.

Then suggest use Techstream if possible to see whether any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) are showing at the ECU – this may provide a lead on the current problem.

Given the state of the fluid, it does seem that bleeding a few more times might be a good place to start – best done after raising and lowering the vehicle – but your vehicle is refusing to raise/lower!!

Suggest attempt the “Height Control Operation Test” (also called the “Active Test”) per Page 6 of the attachment and see whether that allows some raise/lower movement. [Where this test calls for Special Service Tool (SST) 09843-18020, just use an unbent paper clip or similar bridging connector between terminals Ts and E1 at DLC1. The voltages here are low, around 4.5 volts, but do not mix up the terminals). DLC1 is the socket with a black cover showing the word DIAGNOSTIC in the engine bay above RH Front wheel arch – may be different location in LHD vehicles. Note: This test bypasses the ECU and will result in multiple flashing lights in the instrument cluster -- these will revert to normal when the bridge at DLC1 is removed].

There are other possible problems – but best first to be confident that system is purged of air.

If this does not work, please advise – then the next likely issue can be considered. Hopefully, there is nothing complicated like a system blockage caused by ancient fluid and detritus impeding pressure and flow in the system -- but start with easy stuff first.
No luck on this test. Height did not move up or down. I do not have the Techstream software. If I can't get this figured out today I'll probably be calling Fort Collins 4x4 Monday morning. They even have a 100 series LC loaner vehicle. I had them do the bearings 2 years ago and they seem like a reputable shop.
 
No luck on this test. Height did not move up or down. I do not have the Techstream software. If I can't get this figured out today I'll probably be calling Fort Collins 4x4 Monday morning. They even have a 100 series LC loaner vehicle. I had them do the bearings 2 years ago and they seem like a
 
I kept forgetting about the doors when I was checking mine.
Learned about the doors the day I bought it and tested it out. I thought it was broken and the dealer informed me about the doors. I'm bummed it's not working but glad I have new globes. Unfortunately I also had to buy new tires this week so there's another $1000 added to the auto bill this month.
 
No luck on this test. Height did not move up or down. I do not have the Techstream software. If I can't get this figured out today I'll probably be calling Fort Collins 4x4 Monday morning. They even have a 100 series LC loaner vehicle. I had them do the bearings 2 years ago and they seem like a reputable shop.
I had the same issue. I pushed the AHC off button and then turned it back on, or I held the button down for several seconds. Something like that. Give that a try and any other combination you can think off with the AHC button. It sorted it out for me.
 
I had the same issue. I pushed the AHC off button and then turned it back on, or I held the button down for several seconds. Something like that. Give that a try and any other combination you can think off with the AHC button. It sorted it out for me.
I bled each of the 5 valves 4 or 5 times each to make sure all the bubbles were out. I even tried holding down the off button. The good news is that when I start the vehicle it's leveling itself out and each time I bled the values fluid came out. It's just not raising or lowering, and when driving it's still flashing "off" under the AHC section on the dash. Hopefully the local 4x4 shop has Techstream so they can hook it up and see what's wrong with it.
 
I bled each of the 5 valves 4 or 5 times each to make sure all the bubbles were out. I even tried holding down the off button. The good news is that when I start the vehicle it's leveling itself out and each time I bled the values fluid came out. It's just not raising or lowering, and when driving it's still flashing "off" under the AHC section on the dash. Hopefully the local 4x4 shop has Techstream so they can hook it up and see what's wrong with it.
Something else I just remembered. I had a fuse blow that made my rear end completely drop. It was a rough drive home from home depot. I later found out I had a short whenever I used the lumbar button on the driver's seat. Anytime I used it, weird stuff happened including the rear dropping all the way down. I replaced the fuse and haven't touched the lumbar since and its been flawless since. Its worth a shot to check your fusus
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom