Replaced oil pressure relief valve-pressure still high!! (15 Viewers)

[87 HJ60]

I just replaced the oil pressure relief valve on my 2H with an longer length valve I got from RooDogs4WD in Australia. The procedure was simple enough. Remove the plug remove the spring and pull the valve out with a magnet. Put in the new valve after coating it with some oil, the spring next and then the plug.
It's still at about 90psi at startup (idle) and goes over 100psi at 1500rpm. The pressure will drop back down to normal (25psi idle and 70psi @ 1800rpm) after the engine warms up which is usuall about 30 minutes of city driving.
I thought replacing the valve should have fixed this high oil pressure at startup. Did I do something wrong, or is there something else I should be looking at?

 

[Ropeman]

Did you replace the worn out spring too?

 

[rchalmers3]

The things I can think of are:

a) Inaccurate pressure readings (use a known good second gauge for confirmation)
b) Plunger bore is worn, causing binding
c) Spring pressure too great
d) Improper Oil viscosity
e) Incorrect bearing tolerances (not too likely with a working P/R valve)

Ask ole Roo-dogs if he's ever seen a damaged bore. That's where my money is.

Rick

 

[rchalmers3]

Wait..... does the longer piston require a shortened spring????

Rick

 

[Ropeman]

It shouldn't, the only design change ought to be a longer skirt, not a thicker head.

I'd try a new OEM piston and new spring from Toyota, it worked just fine for me.

 

[87 HJ60]

The new valve came with a new spring so yes the spring was replaced. I don't think the bore is damaged because the new valve just dropped in.
As for oil I'm using Shell Rotella 15w-40 with a Toyota oil filter.
As for buying a OEM Toyota valve, that's out of the question. I was at my regular Toyota dealership last week buying a gasket and I inquired about the valve and spring I had originally ordered from them. Still not in and it's been over 5 months now!!
Any suggestions what to do now?

 

[Ropeman]

You say 'dropped in' but you are talking about the valve down under the oil pump, at the front of the engine, aren't you? There is another oil pressure relief valve on the oil filter mount but it isn't the troublesome one. I'm not trying to be insulting but just picked up on that phrase as maybe suggesting you'd replaced the upper piston.

Any bore wear wouldn't stop the piston going in to the bore as it would make the bore wider. Either way, that your pressure is reducing to something normal after warm up would tend to suggest that the valve is working at least once warm.

It couldn't be climate related, could it? I know some Canadians use engine heaters but if yours is sat in a very cold environment could that perhaps affect the behaviour of the piston or the oil?

 

[87 HJ60]

It's the piston in the 'case' in the front of the engine. I don't think the climate affects the way it works, at least in my case. The problem started last summer. So whether it be +25•C or in -20•C temps it behaves the same way.
Now you mentioned another oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing. I don't ever recall seeing this other oil pressure relief valve in the Toyota service manual. Could this other valve be my problem? Does anyone have a picture of where it is and what it looks like?

 

[Ropeman]

My cruiser is away skiing with my pal Chris just now but I'll get a shot later, if nobody else has taken one by then.

However, if you take a look at the 2H/12Ht Engine Repair manual, it is on top of the Oil filter assembly on page LU-15.

I doubt it's that though, every high oil pressure problem I've ever heard of has been fixed by replacing the Oil pump valve.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Has the another pressure gauge been tried?
The way the pressure drops off a little sounds normal. I bet another gauge will show 70 psi cold and 50 psi warm

 

[roscoFJ73]

Has another pressure gauge been tried?
The way the pressure drops off a little sounds normal. I bet another gauge will show 70 psi cold and 50 psi warm

.

 

[87 HJ60]

I haven't tried another oil pressure gauge. The gauge I'm using is a brand new Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge. The source for it is a 'T' where the stock oil pressure sending unit used to be. Also t'd to that spot is the oil supply line to my turbo.
If you suspect that my gauge is reading high then wouldn't the pressure readings I'm getting when everything warms up be low? ie. 5psi rather than 25psi??
When cold, the pressure isn't maxed at 70psi. It pegs on the meter at over 100psi, which is the max which my gauge indicates.
I'm still thinking that there's something causing the high oil pressure. I'll be looking into the other oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter mount housing.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The pressure readings at idle only needs to be enough to keep up the flow.
I think even 5 psi at idle is close to spec.

The important readings are when warm at 2500+rpm

I would still have the gauge checked or borrow another

 

[splitbuseric]

Did this happen at the same time you went turbo? or were the specs the same before turbo? I think I read somewhere about the potential for a turbo to increase oil pressure, and there are orifices available to correct his.. Or perhaps the turbo has issues? Just a thought anyway...

 

[roscoFJ73]

My cruiser is away skiing with my pal Chris just now but I'll get a shot later, if nobody else has taken one by then.

However, if you take a look at the 2H/12Ht Engine Repair manual, it is on top of the Oil filter assembly on page LU-15.

I doubt it's that though, every high oil pressure problem I've ever heard of has been fixed by replacing the Oil pump valve.

I think the valve on top of the filter housing is a bypass valve in case the filter gets blocked

 

[David*BJ70]

I revive an old post. How your story has finished ?

I'm experience a similar situation on my 12HT. After several minute of idle, my pressure is +/- 70lbs and up to 115lbs at 3000rpm when I rev the engine. Meanwhile, my stock gauge show 1/3 and 1/2.

- new 15W40
- new OEM oil filter
- new OEM relief valve and OEM spring
- tested with 2 differents mechanical gauges with a T on the stock oil pressure sending location.


Well, I can't talk to you about the oil pressure after ''a ride'' since the cruiser is not able to drive ... yet (resto project). Should I be worried ? Yeah, I know, I should perform a ride to check the pressure with a warm engine. But I've read that a high pressure is bad for the turbo seal and my turbo is freshly rebuilt...

Well, can you give some advice and/or, words of wisdom !




PS : I should be able to perform a full test drive by the end of the month... (finger cross...)

 

[Hulsty]

my 13BT is similar, over 100psi cold start, around 80psi hot running, 40psi idle, same on two different gauges.

 

[Tapage]

Tencha it's about 40 @ 2K rpm @ normal operative temp

 

[mongoose2231]

I am having oil pressure issues too. Needle gets buried at higher rpm. Idle is at about 3/4 on the gauge. I will fir a mechanical oil pressure gauge but for now i think my oprv might be bad. I have ignored the gauge for a while as a sign of it not working properly but after reading on the issue a bit, I am pretty sure that my oprv is bad. I am hoping to get one from @beno if he can find me one.

 

[Crick60]

I am having oil pressure issues too. Needle gets buried at higher rpm. Idle is at about 3/4 on the gauge. I will fir a mechanical oil pressure gauge but for now i think my oprv might be bad. I have ignored the gauge for a while as a sign of it not working properly but after reading on the issue a bit, I am pretty sure that my oprv is bad. I am hoping to get one from @beno if he can find me one.

It's a very common issue, my old hj60 had it and my 61 has it. The prv fixed some of the issue in the 60 but I suspect it's more related to the sender in the 61.