Yes I will try to compare them and get back to you - at the dealership I had both of them in hand and they looked identical to the "t"
Did they both rattle the same amount or the green one seemed more sensitive to shaking? If anything, i doubt, the one for Flex fuel would be more sensitive to change in pressure and that should also be beneficial for E10 running vehicles. If you run non ethanol old style sensor would be the one to go.
Just a speculation as i truly doubt they differ.
Living in the blue state where E10 seems mandatory, includes 91 and 93 octane, the only place I could get non ethanol gas is our marina and you sure pay premium for it, dollar more per gallon on average so it is a corn lobby all the way.
Also with my LX mpg gain using not ethanol vs E10 is not even that noticeble, if anything 1-2%. I still feel confident PCV vale fix and switch gave me, being conservative, close to 10%. Other maintenance items possibly contributed to the overall gain.
Also because of my towing history and 95K miles on the factory WS fluid I did not flush 12 quarts of tranny fluid all at once, better safe than sorry, I decided to just drain the pan vs doing complete oil
cooler flush. End result I only changed 4 vs 12 quarts of tranny fluid. Well in few months I would drain the pan again. Changing all the fluid at once would likely further contribute fuel economy but if your clutches are worn (in my case towing) that can truly bite you in the behind, rarely a problem on Toyota transmission but I heard about some TSBs advising against. Also if you are not dropping your tranny pan (pan bolts can take you for a ride) there is a benefit of draining the pan vs doing oil cooler line flush. WS fluid in the pan is PRE filter so you always drain some metal shavings with it. Magnets can only hold so much of that stuff. Oil cooler flush all metal shavings stay in the pan.
Another item which may have affected my fuel economy is that I switched transfer case fluid to the lighter one recommended for model years 2013 and above. That was also educated decision as I was often getting flashing differential lock light on the dash on cold start and read (possibly on this site) that switching to the particular German gear oil in lighter grade cures the issue. It did work for me 100%. Diff light was never an issue on the warm car. Still it was PITA because when it is on it disables your cruise control.
Another contributing factor I adjusted my parking brake too loose. FSM calls for 7, possibly 8 notches from the complete wheel lock. Well good for the fuel economy but bad for the holding power of my parking brake. I asked Toyota service tech about it and he recommended just 4 notches down on the adjustor.
So learning from the experience, if above information helps others out = GrEAT!