Replace steering rack bushings question (1 Viewer)

[hoser]

Jim, I can give you some pointers on the install for 98-02 model years...

I used Whiteline bushings and do recommend them. I did not remove the rack but swapped out the bushings on the vehicle. The large one is relatively easy, no explanation needed. I suggest removing it first, then work on the smaller bushings and lastly install the big bushing.

The driver's side bushings can be pressed out. Loosen the rearward bolt slightly. Then remove the forward bolt/nut completely. I just rotated the rack slightly, then jammed a screwdriver in there and used a floor jack to push the bushing out.

The new bushing pictured in previous posts consists of an upper hat, lower hat and a sleeve. You need a bolt/washer/nut that is about 1/2" longer than the stock bolt... probably about 5-1/2 to 6" in length. The one I used it too long and needed a socket and/or stack of washers. Threaded bar with one nut on each side would work better.

Same process for removing the rear bushing. But installing the new bushing trio can be the tricky part. I installed the lower bushing (hat) first. Then when lining up the sleeve and the upper bushing, there was about a centimeter of room between the bushing and oil pan.... and not quite enough for the nut. I fought it for a little bit but in the end, just decided to loosen the smaller DS engine motor mounts and lift the engine just slightly (wood block under oil pan). That extra bit of room was all that was needed. An alternative would be to grind down that nut pictured above by about 1/2 height. Obviously, YMMV.

HTH

 

[re_guderian]

Lots of good tips in this thread. If you're at all mechanically inclined, it's not that bad of a job. Tedious, but $800 is a little steep. Spend that on something nice... I did mine on my 2000, and it's pretty straightforward. To add to the above post, do the install in three steps: 1. lower bushing, 2. sleeve (all the way down), and 3. upper bushing on top of already-in-place sleeve, then the oil pan clearance isn't an issue.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/superpro-polyurethane-bushings-for-lc-100-series.662918/

 

[Teddog]

My shop charged me 2 hours of labor...highly recommended mod on a high mileage cruiser.

You wouldn't happen to be in Arizona, would you? Would have someone do it in a flash for that price (~$250)!

 

[Teddog]

Thanks, Hoser and Re_guderian! Those are very useful comments! I have ordered the Whiteline, so will see how it goes once they show up, and will follow up with how it went!

 

[virafp]

No, I am in S. California.....

 

[timer00]

eStarted my bushing changeout today using the Whiteline 13210 model bushing kit. I got all the bushings out in under a hour. Putting new ones in tomorrow.

Picture attached is all the tools I needed
1/2 breaker bar and 6 pt 19mm socket
1/2 ratchet once the one big bushing bolt was loose
30" of extension with 1/2 universal joint and 19mm 6 pt for the hard to reach big bushing bolt from top of engine bay and used 1/2 breaker bar and took out just by spinning the breaker bar

Mini sledge and brass drift to get smaller bushings out
Gear wrench mini 19mm ratcheting wrench for holding top nuts on little bushing bolts

When putting in new small bushings going to use the technique mentioned elsewhere to use the nut on the bolt to squeeze top bushings into socket. Not sure yet if I even need to jack up oil pan we'll see.

Using factory bolts again.. They are in good shape and rack is slightly leaking though not losing fluid in reservoir. Will be replacing rack near end of year hopefully. It has no real issues except wandering and looseness and my old bushings are 200k

Also used Aerokroil on bolts made them nice and easy out though I have very little surface rust

UPDATE:
Just finished yesterday. Truck feels tighter and much better than before. I actually double checked my steering boots and they are both dry and I never have any noise or roughness with the steering so I think I should be ok for 1 more year at least.

I ended up having to buy 2 new bolts of similar to what "Hoser" posted up above. I used the one to push the steel sleeve and hat into the front bushing. I had to cut another of the bolts a certain length that I measured to do the same on the back bushing to push the sleeve in first and then the bushing hat. I replaced everything back with the stock hardware and torqued it all up.

By cutting the one bolt to a point on the rear bushing side so I could get the sleeve in and a washer and a nut on it I was able to avoid having to do the engine mount thing with lifting the oil pan.

 

[Slickspawn]

I'll chime in here, did this job yesterday. Getting the metal sleeve and upper bushing hats was cake using the longer bolt hoser mentions above.

The 19mm crows foot also seriously helped on the driver side to hold the nut for both pulling the sleeve and top bushing hat as well as final torque.

Steering much improved. I believe my intermediate shaft u joint is worn as I still have a slight rattle over washboard roads...

One last thought, a flex head ratchet really helps.

 

[TheForger]

For everyone who replaced theirs with super pro rack bushings, do you mind giving some feedback on how you like them so far? I am thinking about replacing mine soon and don't know whether I should go with them or Whiteline.

 

[bctlex]

For everyone who replaced theirs with super pro rack bushings, do you mind giving some feedback on how you like them so far? I am thinking about replacing mine soon and don't know whether I should go with them or Whiteline.

I replaced mine in Feb 2016 with Whiteline bought from Amazon. Steering is still tight and has no complain. LC is driven on pavement most of the time.

 

[re_guderian]

My rack with the poly bushings finally died. So I ordered more, and had the new rack installed with new poly bushings. The OEM design leaves a lot to be desired. I can see why they changed it on '03+ models. No regrets going poly.

 

[FLJ23]

I replaced mine in Feb 2016 with Whiteline bought from Amazon. Steering is still tight and has no complain. LC is driven on pavement most of the time.

From the directions on the Whiteline bushings it says not to grease outer shell.
Saw a video on YouTube where they installed Whiteline bushings on a Subaru and they only greased the outer shell. Not the inner part where the metal piece goes.
Do you remember what you greased on the big and smaller bushings?
Thanks.

 

[FLJ23]

From the directions on the Whiteline bushings it says not to grease outer shell.
Saw a video on YouTube where they installed Whiteline bushings on a Subaru and they only greased the outer shell. Not the inner part where the metal piece goes.
Do you remember what you greased on the big and smaller bushings?
Thanks.

 

[bgolf247]

View attachment 1626726

Just so I am clear: Grease goes between metal and inner part of bushing. Is this correct?

 

[Slickspawn]

Just so I am clear: Grease goes between metal and inner part of bushing. Is this correct?

I would grease not only the inner sleeve parts (inside and out of the metal sleeve) but also the rubber/poly outsides also...for two reasons ease of install and that's how I was taught...

 

[bgolf247]

Got her done. About 4-5 hours. As reported, the hardest part was getting top busing in. I found doing the front one first allowed me to pull the rack back down tight to the frame and have enough room to get the nut on the long bolt. Once I got it all right, it was very satisfying. Only things I would do different. 1) Remove all three bushings and slide on new PS bushing before starting on pressing in DS bushings. It wasn't too bad to get PS out/in, but would've been a bit easier if rack was completely free of frame. I didn't want to take those bolts out once I had them all aligned. 2) Do everything perfectly right the first time.

I got to use my new air compressor. Not necessary, but was a little helpful.

 

[bctlex]

From the directions on the Whiteline bushings it says not to grease outer shell.
Saw a video on YouTube where they installed Whiteline bushings on a Subaru and they only greased the outer shell. Not the inner part where the metal piece goes.
Do you remember what you greased on the big and smaller bushings?
Thanks.

Sorry for late reply here. I am pretty sure I greased everything to make it easier to install. Just like what @zulufoxtrot said:

I would grease not only the inner sleeve parts (inside and out of the metal sleeve) but also the rubber/poly outsides also...for two reasons ease of install and that's how I was taught...

 

[bgolf247]

Sorry for late reply here. I am pretty sure I greased everything to make it easier to install. Just like what @zulufoxtrot said:

I generally tried to avoid greasing the outside because the instructions say not to, but it probably would have made it a bit easier.

 

[bcngator00]

Thank you, @hoser for the post on how to do this. It took me two days (got a late start both days), but I was finally able to get the big bushing and the front bushing replaced. The back bushing looked OK and it did not want to press out easily so I left it as is. I do have two recommendations for those who are going to attempt this: 1) Disconnect the transmission send and return lines and secure them with hose pinchers somewhere up out of the way when you get started. Really helped with the two bolts on the big PS bushing. 2)Cut a wooden wedge out of a 2x4 and use this to lift up the rack once you have the big bushing and front DS bolt out. This allowed me to get purchase on the rubber bushing to push it out. Mine was so gone it easily pushed out by hand. My rack is leaking on the DS so I will need to watch the fluid level. I will be swapping some of the PS fluid out with AT-205 to see if this will staunch the leak. Can't afford a replacement at this point in time with all of the other expenses on this vehicle. Wish this thing was 100K less in mileage. Might have been able to do some PM and saved these issues. 4th of July weekend = AHC globe replacement! Thank you all for the great information on the forum. It has really been handy.

 

[Biggreener]

I just did this tonight—thanks a ton to all who’ve posted here before; made it pretty dang easy. I was able to use a pry bar to push both DS bushings out, with a little help from a brass hammer on the rear one. For installation I found starting with the bottom bushing made it easier, followed by the top bushing and the steel sleeve at the same time. I used a piece of threaded rod from Home Depot and two nuts and two washers, for a grand total of $3.00, for my “bushing pushing.” On the rear one, I had just enough room to sneak the top washer and nut on, and did not have to jack up the engine. I also used a 19mm crows foot (as mentioned before) on the top nut, since there’s not much access. Overall it was about a two hour job from start to finish. I’ll post a pic of my pusher.

 

[Tigli]

Thanks to all who have taken the time to share their experiences.
I just did this on my 2002. It felt sloppy to me and the only way I can describe it is that it felt like I was driving between bowling bumpers. This seemed to be the likely place to start as nothing else was visibly loose, ball joints etc. My bushings were in much better condition that others pictured. With that said, the two DS bushings easily pushed out with a screwdriver. From the little driving I've done I can tell a small bit of difference. I'm not sure if I've been spoiled by driving a new modern vehicle or if this (new to me) hundy is in need of further attention.

As for the process. Realistic 2.5 hour job. 3 hours if you have meaty paws. I wear a large glove and found it to be REALLY tight getting the rear DS bushing situated and the nut/washer set up. Not impossible and only required a liberal dose of profanity to persuade the bits to cooperate. I would suggest that the all-thread be of the same diameter as the stock bolt. I think this will help keep things aligned. not imperative but helpful. I don't see a need to lift the engine up. I used a large flat head screwdriver, 1/2 drive socket wrench, 3/8 drive socket wrench, box end/open end 19mm wrench. I had the vehicle up on ramps. The kit I used is from amazon and costs ~$25.
Amazon product ASIN B06XXYS3D5