Replace Carb with OEM Carb (Jim C rebuild) but seems like the throttle is open. (1 Viewer)

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Aug 18, 2021
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Need some help. I decided to replace the Weber that was on my 86 FJ60 with a Jim C rebuild. Luckily I had all the linkage and choke cable still. I made sure to double check the desmog doc to make sure there is nothing missing before putting the OEM on. Unfortunately, what once was a functioning FJ was messed up by yours truly. As soon as I started her up, she sounded like I had the gas pedal all the way down and went past 4000RPMS and wanted to keep going...I quickly shut her down and checked the linkage which looks correct to me (which is why I need your help as I am not sure and also not sure what else to check. (UPDATE NOTE: I do not have the ICS and choke cable hooked up yet - do I need to do that at this point?
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With the truck off, look down the throat of the carb: are the throttle blades open or closed? Nuts holding the carb down tight? Looks like a new carb base plate?
 
With the truck off, look down the throat of the carb: are the throttle blades open or closed? Nuts holding the carb down tight? Looks like a new carb base plate?
Can't even see down the throat of the carb. Yes new base plate and nuts are snug. I am going to try get a pen light in there to see if I can see the blades
 
x2 ^^

If RPM still high, it's the carb, if it's normal, it's the linkage/pedal.
 
Giving up for now.... I adjusted the idle speed screw and it made zero difference. Quick question- is the screw suppose to touch anything if you go clockwise? I just see it compress a spring and when I go counterclockwise it just comes out to the end thread and decompresses the spring. I am not sure if this is even functioning based on what I am seeing.
 
Need some help. I decided to replace the Weber that was on my 86 FJ60 with a Jim C rebuild. Luckily I had all the linkage and choke cable still. I made sure to double check the desmog doc to make sure there is nothing missing before putting the OEM on. Unfortunately, what once was a functioning FJ was messed up by yours truly. As soon as I started her up, she sounded like I had the gas pedal all the way down and went past 4000RPMS and wanted to keep going...I quickly shut her down and checked the linkage which looks correct to me (which is why I need your help as I am not sure and also not sure what else to check. (UPDATE NOTE: I do not have the ICS and choke cable hooked up yet - do I need to do that at this point?
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hi ,

this
IS your issue ....

but NOT so fast here..........⛳


ALL that Greasy crap need to COME OFF !

that's a 8/80-9/87 2F linkage set up there

this is dangerous as S#IT !

below i have 2 TECH videos on WHY

please watch both , i took the time , you
NEED to make the time...........


straight up


matt





IMG_8168 - Copy.jpg
 
hi ,

this
IS your issue ....

but NOT so fast here..........⛳


ALL that Greasy crap need to COME OFF !

that's a 8/80-9/87 2F linkage set up there

this is dangerous as S#IT !

below i have 2 TECH videos on WHY

please watch both , i took the time , you
NEED to make the time...........


straight up


matt





View attachment 3406235

I 100% agree it IS my issue... just getting frustrated. Thanks for the videos I will be watching them tonight. I did notice what you were pointing out in the pic last night but could not get it mounted without them touching as it is putting some pressure on that pin (not sure what you call it).
 
So I narrowed it down to the bracket that attaches to the carb. Not sure if it is bent or what. I tried to put a washer to raise it a bit which helped but it does not close completely when pulled by the return spring... (have to manually push it a bit)

Thanks for the input!

I think I am going to get a new bracket instead of adding a new washer (afraid it might mess with the linkage angle) or bending it.
 
If someone retained the original linkage when they put the weber on they would have had to bend it up to work.
 

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