Hi gentlemen,
Good news and bad news. (scroll down for TLDR) THE GOOD: I think I stopped the intake gasket leak. Did a smoke test with the carb taken off and taped the top of the intake shut. It was an old machine so not sure how much PSI I was gunning in there but seemed moderate compared to the example videos I watched. the smoke made its way all the way to the valve cover venting hole, then when I taped that off it leaked a little out of the timing cover after that. From what I've been told this is a good sign. Nothing out of the intake.
THE BAD (See video link below!): When I put the carb back on there was smoke billowing out of the throttle body springs in particular (just below the carb hole). I can assure you after taping 3 seperate times before filming It was clearly leaking from here, and its not just the tape leaking (which it is some) There were also small leaks on the main mid gaskets. I tink I can hopefully resolve those with tightening the screws a bit (haven't done this yet.) But unsure how to fix throttle spring leak. No leak at the base. The shafts were leaking too but I hear this is normal.
Also Verified today brake booster is not causing the vacuum leak.
Still hitting 10-11 hg (see video for gauge action, assuming that its the carb throttle body leak being my main issue. (other potential issues I haven't verified would be bad PCV, leaky valve, timing off a tooth [I can see bb and line with a timing light tho if I move dizzy all the way clockwise]) This is a BRAND NEW carb from City Racer LLC. the FUJI brand made in japan one.
Any advice on sealing this leak and how bad it appears from the brief video? Does the vacuum gauge action rule out a leaky valve fluctuation? there are a few little bolts there but think they are unrelated, not entirely sure. Was already told by a local cruiserhead NOT to attempt to seal this the throttle spring area, even though he had done it before. Maybe I'm better of getting a refund on the carb or what? Could the leak of the size in the video be about the 5-7 hg im losing?
Other facts for context: it runs better heavily advanced. I am unable to tune it as the mix screw does virtually nothing. Puts out if I let off the gas, I have to rev it for about 15 seconds for it to idle (choke not hooked up yet). i'm at atlitude 5200 ft above sea level, and im running stock jets.)
Local cruiser also recommended I just rebuild and desmog my aisin carb, but unfortunately its been in pieces for a year and the chance of me remembering is not great.
Would love to hear everyone's take.
TLDR: How bad is the throttle spring leak and could it be the sole cause of my low vacuum of 11 on my rebuilt engine based on vacuum reading? How can I fix this issue beyond going to a different carb? What can I rule out?
Could this be timing off a tooth? If I'm off a tooth, would I still be able to see the BB in the sight window? (I can see it in the window only when the distributor is rotated nearly fully clockwise but it runs like ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. I'm asking if you can still be off a tooth and still get the distributor to show the BB.
LINK TO VIDEOS:
Google Drive: Sign-in - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--9Tf9jCK_SQslaNem0DYpByLka3yXxy
Good news and bad news. (scroll down for TLDR) THE GOOD: I think I stopped the intake gasket leak. Did a smoke test with the carb taken off and taped the top of the intake shut. It was an old machine so not sure how much PSI I was gunning in there but seemed moderate compared to the example videos I watched. the smoke made its way all the way to the valve cover venting hole, then when I taped that off it leaked a little out of the timing cover after that. From what I've been told this is a good sign. Nothing out of the intake.
THE BAD (See video link below!): When I put the carb back on there was smoke billowing out of the throttle body springs in particular (just below the carb hole). I can assure you after taping 3 seperate times before filming It was clearly leaking from here, and its not just the tape leaking (which it is some) There were also small leaks on the main mid gaskets. I tink I can hopefully resolve those with tightening the screws a bit (haven't done this yet.) But unsure how to fix throttle spring leak. No leak at the base. The shafts were leaking too but I hear this is normal.
Also Verified today brake booster is not causing the vacuum leak.
Still hitting 10-11 hg (see video for gauge action, assuming that its the carb throttle body leak being my main issue. (other potential issues I haven't verified would be bad PCV, leaky valve, timing off a tooth [I can see bb and line with a timing light tho if I move dizzy all the way clockwise]) This is a BRAND NEW carb from City Racer LLC. the FUJI brand made in japan one.
Any advice on sealing this leak and how bad it appears from the brief video? Does the vacuum gauge action rule out a leaky valve fluctuation? there are a few little bolts there but think they are unrelated, not entirely sure. Was already told by a local cruiserhead NOT to attempt to seal this the throttle spring area, even though he had done it before. Maybe I'm better of getting a refund on the carb or what? Could the leak of the size in the video be about the 5-7 hg im losing?
Other facts for context: it runs better heavily advanced. I am unable to tune it as the mix screw does virtually nothing. Puts out if I let off the gas, I have to rev it for about 15 seconds for it to idle (choke not hooked up yet). i'm at atlitude 5200 ft above sea level, and im running stock jets.)
Local cruiser also recommended I just rebuild and desmog my aisin carb, but unfortunately its been in pieces for a year and the chance of me remembering is not great.
Would love to hear everyone's take.
TLDR: How bad is the throttle spring leak and could it be the sole cause of my low vacuum of 11 on my rebuilt engine based on vacuum reading? How can I fix this issue beyond going to a different carb? What can I rule out?
Could this be timing off a tooth? If I'm off a tooth, would I still be able to see the BB in the sight window? (I can see it in the window only when the distributor is rotated nearly fully clockwise but it runs like ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. I'm asking if you can still be off a tooth and still get the distributor to show the BB.
LINK TO VIDEOS:
Google Drive: Sign-in - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--9Tf9jCK_SQslaNem0DYpByLka3yXxy
)
